A  Practical  Guide 
to  the  treatment  of 

• 

FLOWERING   and  OTHER 
ORNAMENTAL    PLANTS 

In  the  House  and 
Garden 


By  EBEN  E4,  RKXFOM) 


New  York 

ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY 
IQl6 


COPYRIGHT  1890 

by 
JAMES  VICK   SEEDSMAN 


COPYRIGHT  1903 

by 
ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY 


Printed  in  the  U.  S.  A 


BY  WAY  OF    INTRODUCTION 


This  book  is  a  book  for  amateur  floriculturists 
written  by  one  who  is  in  no  sense  a  "professional." 
It  has  been  written  because  there  is  a  constant  and 
increasing  demand  for  a  work  that  treats  on  flowers 
from  the  standpoint  of  the  amateur.  An  extensive 
correspondence  with  flower-loving  persons,  all  over 
the  country,  has  convinced  me  that  scientific  text 
books  are  not  what  is  wanted. 

What  is  wanted  is  plain,  practical,  easily  under- 
stood information  which  will  enable  those  who  love 
flowers,  but  know  very  little  about  them,  to  grow 
them  successfully,  I  have  confidence  plough  in  the 
book  to  believe  that  those  who  read  it  will  find  it  easy 
to  understand  and  that  those  who  fwiiow  out  its  in- 
structions will  be  able  to  grow  all  tine  plants  treated 
in  it  and  grow  them  well. 

It  has  been  written  from  my  own  personal  expe- 
rience among  flowers  and  not  from  theory.  My  way 
may  not  be  the  best  way.  I  do  not  claim  that.  I 
judge  it  simply  by  its  results,  which  have  been  very 
satisfactory  to  me. 

I  do  not  desire  to  have  it  understood  that  I  send 
out  this  book  as  a  sort  of  shor*  cut  to  complete  flori- 
cultural  knowledge.  It  is  simply  intended  to  assist 
the  amateur  in  the  acquirement  of  such  a  knowledge 
which  can  only  come  from  intelligent  personal  study 
and  observation  which  will  lead  to  a  better  acquaint- 
ance and  a  closer  friendship  witft 

Our  Friends,  the  Flowers. 

EBEN  E.  REXFORD. 

Shiocton,  Wis,  January,  1903-  V 

331471 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS 


INTRODUCTION  PAGE 

CHAPTER   I 
Soil  for  Plants  in  Pots I 

CHAPTER    II 
Potting >  7 

CHAPTER    III 
>y  Watering  Plants 12 

CHAPTER     IV 

Care  of  Plants   in   the   Window 15 

CHAPTER    V 
The  Propagation    of    Plants         .  ....          20 

CHAPTER    VI 
Training  Plants 24 

CHAPTER    VII 
Insects  and  How  to  Fight  Them 28 

CHAPTER    VIII 
Care  of  House  Plants   During  Summer  and  Fall        ,          32 

CHAPTER    IX 

Fertilizers 38 

CHAPTER    X 

Diseased    Plants 4° 

CHAPTER    XI 
Winter    Precautions 44 

CHAPTER    XII 
Resting   Plants  .  4$ 

CHAPTER    XIII 
Miscellaneous    Hints 5° 

CHAPTER    XIV 
Plants  Adapted  to  Window  Culture        ....          55 

CHAPTER   XV 
The    Plumbago,     Oleander,     Agapanthus,     Ageraturn^ 

Stevia  and  Eupatorium 3$ 

vii 


Vlll  TABLE     OF      CONTENTS 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  XVI 
Primulas  ....  63 

CHAPxlR  XVII 
The  Mahernia,  Browallia,  Pyrethrum,  Impatiens  Sul- 

tani  and   Lantana 67 

CHAPTER  XVIII 
The  Petunia,  Rhynchospermum,  Heliotrope  and 

Oxalis 71 

CHAPTER  XIX 
Achania,  jlibiscus,  Cyclamen  and  the  Jasmines  .  .  77 

CHAPTER  XX 
The  Calla,  Salvia,  Bouvardia  and  Genista  ...  83 

CHAPTER  XXI 
The  Amaryllis,  Vallota,  Gloxinia  and  Tuberous  Begonia  89 

CHAPTER  XXII 
The  Abutilon,  Mimulus,  Cineraria  and ,  Calceolaria  .  97 

CHAPTER  XXIII 
The  Hydrangea,  Daphne,  Olea  fragrans  and  Myrtle  .  104 

CHAPTER    XXIV 

Swainsonia,    Justicia,    Linum    trigynum,    Clivia,    Bou- 
gainvillea,    Marguerite,    Pentas,    Tropaeolum    an3 

Euphorbia 108 

CHAPTER    XXV 

The    Abutilon,  Begonia    and    Rose        .        .        .        .        HI 
CHAPTER    XXVI 

Azaleas  and  Camellias 116 

CHAPTER    XXVII 

Geraniums   and    Pelargoniums 122 

CHAPTER    XXVIII 
>J!he  Carnation  and  the  Fuchsia 127 

CHAPTER  XXIX 
The  Chrysanthemum  .  132 

CHAPTER  XXX 
Palms 138 

CHAPTER  XXXI 
Ferns 149 


TABLE      OF      CONTENTS  IX 

PAGE 

CHAPTER    XXXII 

Miscellaneous  Decorative  Plants 155 

CHAPTER'  XXXIII 

Vines   for  House    Culture 17° 

CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

Basket  Plants J78 

CHAPTER   XXXV 

Bulbs    for    Winter     Flowering 183 

CHAPTER   XXXVI 

Appliances  for  the   Amateur's   Use  197 

CHAPTER    XXXVII 

Small   Greenhouses 203 

CHAPTER   XXXVIII 

Garden  Making  and  Seed  Sowing 211 

CHAPTER   XXXIX 

The  Best  Annuals 216 

CHAPTER    XL 

Bedding  Plants    and    Plants    for    Tropical    Effect        .        224 
CHAPTER    XLI 

Tea   Roses    for    Beds 230 

CHAPTER    XLII 

The   Dahlia        '. 235 

CHAPTER    XLIII 

The  Tuberose  and  the  Gladiolus^ 241 

CHAPTERT~  XLI  V 

\    Hardy  Border   Plants 247    r 

CHAPTER  .  XLV 

Spring-flowejring_JBulbs 254 

CHAPTER    XLVI 

Hardy  Roses       .        . 259 

CHAPTER    XLVII 

Vines   .        .    "  • .        265 

CHAPTER   XLVIII 

Lilies    .        «       »-....        .  , .269 

CHAPTER    XLIX 

jShrubs,  and  How  to  Plant  Them 273 

CHAPTER    L 

Rockeries 280 

CHAPTER    LI 
After  Thoughts          . 284 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


FIG  PAGE 

1.  Eben  E.  Rexford Frontispiece 

2.  Parlor   Syringe 18 

3.  Elastic  Plant    Sprinkler 18 

4.  Fountain   Pump 19 

5.  Saucer  Propagation 21 

6.  Begonia  Leaf  Producing  Young  Plants        .  22 

7.  A    Tastefully    Arranged    Plant    Window        .  26 

8.  Bay  Window  with  Glazed  Doors     ...  52 

9.  Swinging  Iron  Brackets  and  Window  Shelf  53 

10.  Cluster    of    Agapanthus    Flowers     ...  60 

11.  Single  Chinese  Primrose 64 

12.  Bouq-uet  of  Single  and  Double  Petunias        .        .  72 

13.  Oxalis  Rosea 75 

14.  The    Persian    Cyclamen 79 

15.  Calla  Blossoms  and  Leaves 83 

16.  The  Genista 87 

17.  Prominent  Types  of  Amaryllis        ....  90 

18.  Vallota   Purpurea 92 

19.  Hybrid   Gloxinias 94 

20.  Specimen   Cineraria    Plant IOI 

21.  Specimen  Calceolaria  Plant 103 

22.  Hydrangea  Otaksa 105 

23.  Single   and   Double   Tuberous    Begonias        .        .  113 

24.  A    Well-Grown    Azalea 119 

25.  Group  of  Double  Geraniums 123 

26.  Mrs  George  M.  Bradt  Carnations    ....  128 

27.  Daybreak    Carnations 129 

28.  Single    Stem    Chrysanthemum    lora        .        .        .  135 

29.  Chrysanthemum  Mrs   Perrin 136 

30.  Latania   Borbonica 142 

31.  Areca  Lutescens 143 

32.  Cocos  Weddelliana 144 

33.  Kentia  Belmoreana    .        .        .        .                .        .  145 

34.  Phoenix  Reclinata 146 

34f  Rhapis   Humilis 148 

35-  The  Boston  Fern 152 

36.  '  Araucaria  Excel sa 156 

37.  Aspidistra  Lurida  Variegata 158 

38.  Asparagus    Sprengeri 160 

39.  Dracaena  Brasiliensis         .                 ....  162 

xi 


Xll  LIST      OF      ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIG  PAGE 

40.  Ficus  Elastica 163 

41.  The  Screw   Pine 165 

42.  Artistically  Arranged  Bay  Window        .        .        .  172 

43.  German  Ivy  and  Fern  Basket        .        .        .        .  175 

44.  Saxifraga   Sarmentosa 180 

45.  The  Bermuda  Lily 188 

46.  Roman    Hyacinth 189 

47.  Types  of  Narcissus .  191 

48.  Bunch  of  Lily  of  the  Valley 193 

49.  The  Neapolitan  Allium 195 

50.  Hand  Pruning  Shears 197 

51.  Serviceable  Weeding  Implements    ....  198 

52.  Folding    Plant    Stand 199 

53.  The  Author's    Greenhouse 207 

54.  Effective  Planting  of  Annual  Vines        .        .        .  220 

55.  Annuals  in  a  Backyard  Garden        ....  223 

56.  Tropical  Effect  from  Ricinus  and  Other  Annuals  226 

57.  The  Eulalia  or  Zebra  Grass    .        .        .        .        .  228 

58.  Yucca  Filamentosa     .        .        .        .        .        .        .  229 

59.  Tea  Rose  Catherine  Mermet 231 

60.  Types   of    Single    Dahlias 237 

61.  Types   of  Double   Dahlias 240 

62.  The    Pearl    Tuberose 242 

63.  Types    of   Improved   Gladiolus        ....  246 

64.  The  Allegheny    Hollyhock 249 

65.  Types  of  Japanese   Iris    .        .        .        .        .        .  251 

66.  Fine-Leaved  Paeony          ......  252 

67.  Types  of   Tulips 257 

68.  Crimson  Rambler  Rose     ....        .        .  263 

69.  The  Golden-banded   Lily 271 

70.  Group  of  the  Hardy  Hydrangea    ....  276 

71.  The  American    Elder 278 

72.  A  Tasteful  Window  Box 296 


HOME    FLORICULTURE 


CHAPTER     I 


SOIL      FOR     PLANTS      IN      POTS 

Two  mistakes  are  to  be  avoided  by  the  amateur 
floriculturist.  That  of  thinking  that  plants  in  pots  will 
grow  well  in  any  kind  of  soil  is  one  of  them.  .This  idea 
originates  from  an  observation  of  the  comparatively 
satisfactory  development  of  plants  in  the  garden,  whose 
soil  seems  to  be  of  only  ordinary  fertility.  If  plants 
do  well  in  such  a  soil,  when  grown  in  the  garden  beds, 
why  will  they  not  do  as  well  in  the  same  soil,  in  a 
pot,  the  amateur  asks  himself.  He  sees  no  reason 
why  they  should  not.  But  the  fact  is,  they  will  not. 
Out  in  the  garden  they  are  growing  under  natural 
conditions,  where  they  get  the  benefit  of  fresh  air,  and 
dew,  and  sunshine,  and  can  attract  to  themselves  nutri- 
ment from  all  sides.  The  result  is  far  different  from 
what  it  would  be  if  we  were  to  attempt  to  grow 
plants  in  this  soil,  in  pots;  because,  in  the  latter  case, 
all  conditions  are  changed  materially.  To  grow  plants 
well  in  pots  the  soil  must  be  rich,  and  the  amateur, 
to  be  successful,  must  not  make  the  mistake  of  think- 
ing that  any  soil  will  answer  the  purpose. 

The  other  mistake  is  this :  That  each  plant  must 
have  a  soil  specially  prepared  for  it.  It  may  be 


2  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

advisable  to  adapt  the i  soil  to  the  nature  of  the  plant 
grown  in  it,  to  some  extent,  in  special  instances, 
but,  as  a  general  thing,  nearly  all  plants  advisable  for 
house  culture  will  do  themselves  full  justice  if  given 
the  same  kind  of  soil.  The  plants  that  fail  to  do  this, 
in  any  really  good  soil,  are  the  exceptions  which 
prove  the  rule.  But  because  they  will  do  this  is  no 
good  reason  why  they  should  be  obliged  to  do  it  if  we 
can  grow  them  more  satisfactorily  by  giving  them  the 
kind  of  soil  they  have  an  especial  liking  for. 

Right  here  the  question  may  come  up  in  the  mind 
of  the  amateur  florist,  How  am  I  to  know  just  what 
kind  of  soil  a  plant  likes  best?  To  this  I  would 
answer,  that  we  cannot  know,  positively,  until  we  have 
had  some  experience  with  the  plant,  but  an  examina- 
tion of  its  roots  will  generally  give  us  a  pretty  good 
idea  of  the  character  of  the  soil  best  adapted  to  it. 
If  a  plant  has  few  roots,  and  those  are  large  ones,  as 
a  general  thing,  a  rather  close,  firm  soil  will  suit  it 
better  than  a  light,  spongy  one.  Those  having  hard, 
wiry  roots,  like  the  Rose,  nearly  always  prefer  a  soil 
containing  considerable  clay — one  that  will  make  itself 
firm  and  compact  about  the  roots.  Plants  like  Primula 
obconica,  and  Heliotrope,  whose  roots  are  almost  hair- 
like  in  their  fineness,  do  much  the  best  in  a  light  soil 
containing  a  good  deal  of  fibrous  matter,  or,  if  that 
is  lacking,  a  liberal  proportion  of  sand,  which  will 
prevent  the  heavier  elements  from  packing  down  under 
the  action  of  water,  and  becoming  uncomfortably 
compact  and  impenetrable.  ' 

The  best  general  purpose  soil  I  have  ever  used  was 
made  as  follows  :  One  part  ordinary  garden  loam ;  one 
part  turfy  matter  scraped  from  the  lower  part  of  sods, 
containing  all  the  fine  grass  roots  possible  to  secure 
with  it ;  one  part  of  well-rotted  manure  and  sand,  half 
and  half,  If  leaf  mold  can  be  obtained,  it  can  be  used 


SOIL      FOR      PLANTS      IN      POTS  3 

instead  of  the  turf  scrapings.  We  hear  a  great  deal 
said  about  its  superiority  over  other  light  and  spongy 
soils,  but  there  is  really  but  very  little  difference 
between  it  and  turfy  soil,  since  both  are  composed 
largely  of  vegetable  matter.  In  one  case,  leaves  decay, 
and  furnish  food  for  plant  growth,  and  in  the  other 
the  grass  roots  rot  and  supply  nutriment.  Leaf  mold 
gives  more  immediate  effects,  because  it  is  already 
decayed,  while  turf  soil  must  have  time  in  which  to 
decay  before  it  is  fully  available. 

I  have  spoken  of  well-rotted  manure.  That  from 
the  cow  yard  is  best,  and  it  should  be  so  old  as  to 
be  black  and  friable.  On  no  account  should  fresh 
manure  be. used.  It  will  always  injure  a  plant.  Hen 
manure  is  too  strong,  unless  used  in  small  quantities. 
If  used  at  all,  it  should  be  experimented  with  carefully. 
Horse  manure  is  too  heating.  Guano  is  better,  but 
care  must  be  exercised  in  the  use  of  it,  as  its  strength 
is  not  always  alike,  therefore  no  hard-and-fast  rule 
as  to  the  quantity  to  be  mixed  with  the  soil  can  be 
given.  Finely-ground  bone  meal  I  have  found  to  be 
the  best  substitute,  all  things  considered,  for  old  cow 
manure.  It  is  rich  in  the  elements  of  plant  growth, 
is  easily  obtainable  by  those  who  would  find  it  difficult 
to  procure  barnyard  manure,  is  pleasant  to  handle,  and 
perfectly  safe,  provided  it  is  not  used  in  excessive 
quantities.  A  pound  of  it  to  the  amount  of  soil  that 
would  fill  a  bushel  basket  would  make  the  compost 
very  rich,  and  I  would  advise  using  a  smaller  quan- 
tity to  begin  with.  Watch  the  effect  on  the  plants 
grown  in  the  soil  containing  it.  If  they  do  not  take  on 
the  luxuriant  growth  you  would  like  to  have  them, 
small  quantities  of  the  bone  meal  can  be  added  to  the 
soil  in  the  pots  by  digging  it  in  about  their  roots. 
Personally,  I  prefer  it  to  cow  manure,  for  the  reason 
that  worms  are  never  bred  in  the  soil  from  it,  while 


4  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

the  use  of  barnyard  fertilizers  is  almost  sure  to 
introduce  worms  which  cannot  be  got  rid  of  easily. 

The  use  of  any  fertilizer  must  be  attended  with 
caution.  An  overdose  of  food  often  kills  a  plant. 
A  plant  in  too  rich  a  soil  gets  a  sort  of  vegetable 
dyspepsia,  because  it  is  unable  to  digest  properly  the 
strong  food  given  it,  and  the  result  of  its  continued 
use  brings  on  a  debilitated  condition  from  which  death 
ultimately  ensues.  It  is  a  safe  plan  to  have  the  soil 
of  only  moderate  richness,  and  supply  stronger  food 
from  time  to  time,  as  the  plant  indicates  a  need  for 
it.  In  this  way  we  grow  our  best  plants.  Their 
development  can  be  made  steady  and  healthful  under 
such  conditions,  while  too  rich  a  soil  forces  a  rapid, 
weak  growth  which  is  sure  to  give  us  unhealthy  plants. 

Many  cannot  understand  why  it  is  necessary  to 
add  sand  to  the  soil  for  pot  plants.  The  reason  for 
using  it  is  this:  The  soil  in  a  pot  is  quite  likely  to 
become  heavy  from  repeated  waterings.  In  a  heavy, 
compact  soil  the  roots  do  not  have  a  good  chance  to 
grow.  The  air  which  they  require  is  not  admitted 
readily.  If  sand  is  mixed  with  the  other  portions 
of  the  compost,  it  makes  it  light,  friable  and  porous. 
It  allows  the  water  to  run  through  readily,  and  where 
the  water  can  move  in  this  way  the  air  can  find  its 
way  in.  If  you  use  good,  sharp  sand  in  your  potting 
soil  you  will  seldom  find  it  becoming  sour,  if  drainage 
is  provided.  If  you  do  not  use  it,  you  will  often  find 
it  soggy  and  sticky,  and  in  most  cases  where  it  is 
discovered  to  be  in  this  condition  you  will  see  that  the 
plant  in  it  is  not  growing  well.  Examine  the  roots 
and  you  will  be  pretty  sure  to  find  that  many  of  the 
young  and  delicate  ones  are  decaying.  When  this 
takes  place,  disease  is  pretty  sure  to  follow  rapidly. 
More  plants  are  lost  from  neglect  in  preparing  a  light 
and  porous  soil  than  from  any  one.  other  cause,  I 


SOIL     FOR      PLANTS      IN      POTS  5 

think.     I  would  omit  the  manure  from  the  compost 
rather  than  the  sand,  if  I  could  have  but  one. 

If  you  do  not  require  your  compost  for  immediate 
use,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  pile  it  up  in  some  corner  of 
the  garden  and  allow  the  vegetable  matter  in  it  to 
decay  thoroughly.  Stir  it  well  from  time  to  time.  Let 
the  air  get  to  all  parts  of  it.  When  you  have  soap 
suds  pour  them  over  it.  Add  to  it  whatever  you  think 
will  increase  its  nutritive  qualities.  In  a  short  time 
you  will  have  a  supply  of  soil  in  which  the  most 
aristocratic  plant  ought  to  grow  well.  It  is  well  to 
keep  a  supply  on  hand.  You  will  need  it  all  through 
the  year  if  you  have  many  plants.  Often  a  plant 
requires  repotting  in  winter,  but  because  there  is  no 
soil  at  hand  it  is  allowed  to  remain  in  its  old  pot  and 
by  the  time  the  soil  required  can  be  obtained,  the 
plant  is  injured  permanently.  Therefore  put  a  box 
of  good  soil  in  the  cellar  in  the  fall,  to  use  as  occasion 
requires  during  the  winter.  Always  aim  to  be  pre- 
pared to  give  your  plants  such  attention  as  they  may 
need,  when  it  is  needed.  In  order  to  do  this  you  must 
look  ahead  a  little,  and  understand  what  attention  they 
are  likely  to  require. 

In  potting  plants,  where  a  compost  prepared  as 
advised  above  is  used,  it  may  easily  be  varied  to  suit 
the  different  plants  you  propose  to  grow  in  it.  That 
is,  if  the  roots  of  a  plant  indicate  a  liking  for  a  some- 
what heavy  soil,  add  some  loam  containing  clay  to  it. 
If  they  seem  to  require  a  very  light,  porous  soil,  add 
more  turfy  matter,  leaf  mold,  or  sand.  From  this,  the 
reader  will  understand  that  the  soil  prepared  as 
advised  forms  a  basis  for  soils  of  varying  degrees  of 
heaviness  or  lightness,  and  that  these  qualities  are 
readily  obtainable  by  the  use  of  proper  material. 

It  is  often  difficult,  and  sometimes  impossible,  to 
procure  such  a  soil  as  that  recommended  above.  But 


O  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

on  this  account  do  not  forego  the  pleasure  of  growing 
flowers.  Get  the  best  soil  you  can,  and  give  the  plants 
the  best  possible  care,  and  you  will  often  be  surprised 
at  the  result.  The  love  of  flowers  seems  to  have  a 
good  deal  to  do  with  success.  Where  this  exists,  there 
will  be  nothing  left  undone  to  make  conditions  as 
favorable  as  possible  for  them.  The  plants  seem  to 
understand  what  is  being  done  for  them,  and  respond 
by  doing  their  best  to  reward  their  owner  for  the 
care  and  attention  given.  To  grow  flowers  well,  you 
must  love  them.  If  you  have  not  this  feeling  for  them, 
do  not  attempt  their  cultivation,  for  your  attempts  will 
surely  end  in  failure. 


CHAPTER    II 

POTTING 

When  you  get  ready  to  pot  plants,  the  first  thing 
to  do,  if  your  'pots  are  new  ones,  is  to  put  them  to 
soak  in  a  tub  of  water.  Unless  this  is  done,  and  the 
pores  of  the  clay  are  full  of  water  when  the  soil  is 
put  into  them,  the  moisture  will  be  quickly  drawn 
from  it,  and  the.  plant  will  suffer  from  lack  of  water 
before  you  are  aware  that  there  is  not  enough  to 
supply  its  needs. 

Provide  a  quantity  of  broken  crockery,  old  brick, 
anything  which  can  be  put  into  the  bottom  of  each 
pot  to  the  depth  of  an  inch  or  two  and  keep  the  soil 
above  it  from  running  down  and  filling  up  the  hole 
in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  where  surplus  water  is 
supposed  to  escape.  Do  not  make  this  material  for 
drainage  too  fine.  Let  the  pieces  be  about  an  inch 
square,  or  like  nut  coal. 

Some  persons  seem  to  think  that  it  is  unnecessary 
to  provide  drainage.  I  have  often  heard  it  said  that 
it  "was  all  a  whim."  Not  so.  The  practice  is 
founded  on  good,  sound,  philosophic  principles.  Give 
the  water  a  chance  to  drain  away  from  the  soil  and 
it  follows  that  only  as  much  will  be  retained  as  the 
plant  growing  in  it  requires.  If  good  drainage  is 
provided  the  water  will  not  remain  and  sour  the  soil, 
as  it  pretty  surely  would  if  no  escape  was  furnished 
for  the  water  that  the  soil  would  not  naturally  take 
up.  Only  a  certain  quantity  can  be  retained  in  soils 
which  have  natural  drainage,  and  we  always  aim, 
in  plant  culture,  to  come  as  near  to  the  natural  way 
of  things  as  possible. 


8  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

Another  reason  for  providing  drainage  is  this : 
Many  persons  are  very  careless  about  watering  their 
plants.  Often  they  apply  so  much  that  the  soil  is 
saturated  all  through,  and  they  do  not  wait  for  this  to 
evaporate  or  be  got  rid  of  in  some  other  way,  but 
perhaps  the  next  day  they  repeat  the  operation.  If 
there  is  no  drainage,  such  a  course  of  treatment  will 
soon  result  in  disease  among  your  plants,  but  with 
good  drainage,  the  danger  of  overwatering  is  avoided 
in  a  great  degree.  Therefore,  be  sure  to  see  that  all 
pots  over  four  inches  across  are  drained  well.  Smaller 
pots  do  not  require  it,  because  there  is  but  little  soil 
in  them,  and  evaporation  is  much  more  rapid  than 
from  a  larger  pot. 

When  you  get  ready  to  pot  a  plant,  fill  the  pot 
to  within  an  inch  or  two  of  the  top  with  the  loose 
soil,  and  give  it  a  jar  to  settle  it  somewhat.  Then 
remove  some  from  the  center,  and  in  this  hollow  set 
the  roots  of  the  plant,  taking  care  to  have  them 
spread  out  naturally.  Sift  the  loose  soil  down  among 
them,  jarring  the  pot  from  time  to  time  to  firm  the 
soil  well.  When  nearly  full,  press  down  with  the  hand, 
and  then  water  thoroughly  to  settle  the  soil.  It  is 
not  a  good  plan  to  have  the  pot  full  to  the  rim  of 
soil,  because  the  water  which  is  applied  will  run  off 
before  enough  is  taken  up  by  the  soil  to  penetrate  to 
all  portions  of  it.  Have  the  earth  about  an  inch 
below  the  rim  when  well  settled. 

In  repotting  old  plants,  remove  as  much  as 
possible  of  the  old  soil  without  disturbing  the  roots 
too  much.  Some  shake  all  the  old  soil  off  the  roots, 
but  I  find  that  a  plant  starts  much  sooner  and  does  a 
great  deal  better  if  the  roots  in  the  center  of  the  ball 
of  earth  in  which  they  have  been  growing  are  not 
interfered  with.  Roots  must  take  hold  of  the  fresh 
soil  before  the  plant  can  become  thoroughly  estab- 


POTTING  9 

lished  in  its  new  quarters.  If  all  are  disturbed,  the 
plant  receives  too  severe  a  check,  because  it  will  be 
some  time  before  they  are  in  a  condition  to  take  up 
nutriment;  but  if  a  part  of  them  are  left  undisturbed, 
these  can  feed  the  plant  while  the  others  are  taking 
hold  of  the  fresh  soil. 

In  shifting  plants,  it  is  not  advisable  to  change 
from  a  small  pot  to  one  more  than  one  or  two  sizes 
larger.  It  is  better  to  make  frequent  shifts.  Do  not 
repot  till  the  roots  have  filled  the  ball  of  earth  and 
formed  a  network  of  white  fibers  all  around  the  outside 
of  it.  You  can  v  readily  ascertain  when  this  has  been 
done  by  turning  the  plant  out  of  the  pot.  Invert  the 
pot  over  the  left  hand,  with  the  stalk  of  the  plant  be- 
tween your  fingers.  Then  give  the  pot  a  sharp  rap 
against  something  to  loosen  it  from  the  soil.  The  plant 
can  then  be  slipped  out  readily  without  disturbing  the 
roots  in  the  least.  Do  not  think  that  this  injures  the 
plant,  for  it  does  not. 

A  great  mistake  is  made  by  many  amateurs  in 
giving  too  large  pots.  They  think  a  small  pot  means 
starvation  to  the  plant  because  it  will  not  contain  a 
sufficient  amount  of  earth  to  feed  a  plant  well.  This 
is  not  true  of  small  plants.  They  have  few  roots,  and 
a  small  amount  of  soil  will  meet  all  their  require- 
ments until  these  roots  have  enlarged  and  fill  the  pot. 
Then  repot.  If  you  put  a  small  plant  in  a  large  pot 
it  cannot  make  use  of  all  the  nutriment  in  the  soil,  and 
as  there  is  nothing  else  to  share  it,  the  poor  little 
plant  is  overfed — fed  to  death,  often.  A  young  plant 
from  a  cutting  should  not  have  a  pot  larger  than 
three  inches  across  the  top.  Plants  bought  from 
florists  in  spring  are  generally  from  pots  of  that  size, 
and  they  are  almost  always  in  strong,  healthy  condition, 
after  having  been  grown  in  these  small  pots  the  greater 
share  of  the  winter.  This  proves  that  a  young  plant 
does  not  require  a  large  pot. 


IO  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

A  pot  six  or  seven  inches  across  the  top  is  quite 
large  enough  for  ordinary  window  plants.  A  Geranium 
will  bloom  better  in  a  pot  of  this  size,  when  a  year 
old,  than  it  would  in  a  larger  one.  One  containing 
more  soil  would  be  likely  to  produce  a  more  luxuriant 
growth  of  leaf  and  branch,  but  would  give  fewer 
blossoms.  It  is  a  fact  that  a  plant  blooms  better,  as 
a  general  thing,  when  somewhat  cramped  for  root 
room.  But  all  plants  grown  for  their  foliage  require 
a  liberal  amount  of  soil,  because  with  them  flowers  are 
not  what  is  aimed  at,  but  a  vigorous  development  of 
branches  to  furnish  leaves.  Bearing  this  in  mind,  you 
would  give  your  flowering  Geraniums  rather  small 
pots,  while  you  would  give  a  Rose  Geranium  a  pot 
several  sizes  larger,  one  being  grown  solely  for  its 
flowers,  while  the  other  is  only  satisfactory  when 
it  has  a  large  amount  of  fine  foliage.  From  this  I 
think  you  get  the  idea  governing  the  use  of  large  and 
small  pots. 

After  potting  a  plant  give  it  a  thorough  water- 
ing, as  has  been  said,  to  settle  the  soil,  but  do  not 
give  more  until  it  shows  signs  of  starting  into 
growth,  unless  the  weather  is  very  warm  and  evap- 
oration takes  place  rapidly.  It  is  always  well  to  set 
newly  potted  plants  in  a  shaded  place  until  they 
become  well  established  in  their  new  pots.  It  may 
take  two  weeks  for  them  to  do  this.  Shower  them 
daily.  Moisture  on  the  foliage  often  seems  to  do  as 
much  good  as  water  at  the  roots,  and  it  is  especially 
beneficial  to  a  plant  when  it  is  suffering  the  shock 
which  the  most  careful  potting  is  likely  to  give  to 
some  varieties  which  do  not  take  kindly  to  a  change 
of  this  sort. 

If  you  have  good  soil  for  your  plants,  I  would  not 
advise  a  complete  repotting  oftener  than  once  a  year. 
Give  this  just  before  they  make  the  strong  growth 


POTTING  II 

of  the  season.  Some  months  later,  remove  a  portion 
of  the  soil  from  the  pot  and  give  fresh  earth  in  its 
place.  This  will  keep  the  plant  in  good  growing 
condition.  If  it  seems  suffering  from  lack  of  nutri- 
ment, give  some  of  the  fertilizers  treated  of  in  a  later 
chapter.  We  are  beginning  to  understand  that  by  the 
use  of  these,  in  an  intelligent  way,  much  of  the  need  of 
frequent  repotting  can  be  done  away  with.  This 
subject  will  be  considered  farther  on. 


CHAPTER    III 

WATERING       PLANTS 

Some  persons  water  their  plants  every  day,  with- 
out regard  to  the  season,  and  give  just  about  the  same 
quantity  one  day  that  they  do  another.  The  natural 
result  is  that  in  winter  their  plants  are  weak  and 
spindling,  with  yellow  leaves,  and  few  if  any  flowers. 
The  owner  will  tell  you  that  she  "don't  see  what  ails 
her  plants.  She  is  sure  she  gives  them  all  the  water 
they  need,  and  she  never  forgets  to  do  this."  If  she 
were  to  forget  to  do  this  occasionally  it  would  be  a 
great  deal  better  for  the  plants.  In  summer  the 
evaporation  of  moisture  from  the  soil  is  rapid,  because 
of  warmth  and  wind,  but  in  winter  this  goes  on  slowly, 
and  the  amount  of  water  given  should  be  regulated  by 
the  ability  of  the  soil  to  dispose  of  it.  Where  too 
much  is  given,  as  has  been  said  in  the  chapter  on 
potting,  the  soil  is  reduced  to  a  condition  of  muddiness, 
unless  good  drainage  has  been  provided,  and  those 
who  give  too  much  water  generally  neglect  this  item. 

Another  woman  will  give  water  in  little  driblets, 
"whenever  she  happens  to  think  of  it."  The  result  is 
that  her  plants  are  chronic  sufferers  from  lack  of 
moisture  at  the  roots.  The  wonder  is  that  they  contrive 
to  exist.  Turn  them  out  of  their  pots  and  you  will 
generally  find  that  the  upper  portion  of  the  soil  is 
moist,  and  in  this  what  few  roots  there  are  have 
spread  themselves,  while  below  it  the  soil  is  almost 
as  dry  as  dust,  and  no  root  could  live  there.  Plants 
grown  under  these  conditions  are  almost  always  dwarf 
and  sickly  specimens,  with  but  few  leaves,  and  most 
of  these  yellow  ones.  You  will  find  that  plants  grown 


WATERING     PLANTS  13 

under  either  condition  are  much  more  subject  to  attacks 
of  insects  than  healthy  plants  are. 

There  is  only  one  rule  to  be  governed  by  in 
watering  plants,  that  I  have  any  knowledge  of,  and 
f.hat  is  this:  Never  apply  water  to  any  plant  until 
the  surface  of  the  soil  looks  dry.  When  you  do  give 
water,  give  enough  of  it  to  thoroughly  saturate  the  soil. 
If  some  runs  through  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  you  can 
be  sure  that  the  whole  ball  of  earth  is  moist. 

I  follow  this  rule  with  good  results.  Of  course, 
like  all  other  rules,  it  has  exceptions.  For  instance, 
a  Calla,  being  a  sort  of  aquatic  plant,  requires  very 
much  more  water  than  a  Geranium.  A  Cactus,  being 
a  native  of  hot,  dry  climates,  requires  but  very  little. 
The  florist  who  is  interested  in  his  plants  will  study 
their  habits,  in  order  to  understand  the  requirements 
of  each,  and  will  soon  be  able  to  treat  them  intelli- 
gently. He  will  soon  be  able  to  tell  at  a  glance  when 
a  plant  requires  more  water.  He  will  know  what 
kinds  to  give  a  good  deal  to,  and  what  kinds  to  water 
sparingly.  Until  he  has  acquired  this  ability  it  is 
well  for  him  to  adhere  to  the  rule  given  above,  for 
if  he  follows  it  he  cannot  go  very  far  wrong  in  either 
direction.  Let  the  water  used  be  of  about  the  same 
temperature  as  that  of  the  room  in  which  the  plants 
are.  I  am  often  asked  which  is  best,  hard  or  soft 
water.  I  have  tried  both,  and  see  little  difference. 

Many  persons  fail  to  attain  success  with  plants 
in  baskets  and  window  boxes.  Ninety-nine  times  out 
of  a  hundred,  the  failure  is  due  to  lack  of  water.  A 
basket  is  exposed  to  dry  air  on  all  sides,  and  is 
suspended  near  the  ceiling,  as  a  general  thing,  where 
the  air  is  much  warmer  than  below,  consequently 
evaporation  takes  place  more  rapidly  than  from  the 
pot  on  the  window  sill.  Because  it  is  somewhat 
difficult  to  get  at,  water  is  not  given  as  often  as 


14  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

required,  and  then  generally  in  smaller  quantities  than 
is  needed.  The  first  thing  you  know,  your  plants  are 
turning  yellow,  and  dropping  their  leaves,  and  soon 
they  are  in  such  a  condition  that  you  throw  them  away 
in  disgust,  and  conclude  that  you  haven't  "the  knack" 
of  growing  good  basket  plants.  All  the  trouble  comes 
from  an  insufficient  water  supply. 

There  'are  two  methods  by  which  you  may  make 
it  easier  to  attend  to  the  needs  of  these  plants.  One 
is,  to  have  the  baskets  suspended  by  long  cords  run- 
ning over  pulleys,  by  which  you  can  lower  them  into 
a  tub  of  water,  where  they  can  be  left  until  they 
are  thoroughly  soaked  through.  The  other  is  this : 
Take  a  tin  can  and  punch  a  hole  through  the  bottom 
of  it.  Let  this  hole  be  large  enough  to  allow  water 
to  escape,  drop  by  drop.  Set  this  on  top  of  your 
basket  and  arrange  the  foliage  to  cover  it. 

If  the  hole  is  not  as  large  as  it  ought  to  be,  the 
soil  will  not  be  kept  moist  all  through.  In  this  case, 
make  it  larger.  A  little  observation  will  enable  you 
to  regulate  matters  in  such  a  manner  as  to  secure  just 
the  flow  of  water  needed.  By  the  "tin-can  method"  of 
watering  basket  plants,  the  trouble  of  watering  in  the 
ordinary  way  will  be  done  away  with,  and  the  results 
will  be  extremely  satisfactory. 

Plants  can  be  grown  nearly  as  well  in  the  window 
box  as  in  the  open  ground  if  enough  water  is  given 
to  keep  the  soil  moist,  all  through,  at  all  times.  The 
"little-and-often"  plan,  spoken  of  in  this  chapter,  will 
lead  to  dismal  failure  in  the  care  of  window  boxes. 
Apply  at  least  a  pailful  of  water  every  day,  in  warm 
weather.  If  this  is  done  there  need  be  no  failure.  If 
those  who  have  failed,  heretofore,  will  bear  this  in 
mind,  and  follow  the  advice  given,  they  may  have 
window  boxes  that  will  make  their  windows  beautiful 
during  the  entire  summer,  with  very  little  trouble. 


CHAPTER    IV 

CARE     OF     PLANTS     IN     THE     WINDOW 

In  order  to  grow  plants  well,  in  the  house,  they 
must  have  plenty  of  light.  Unless  this  can  be  given, 
they  will  be  spindling  and  weak,  and  there  will  be  few, 
if  any,  flowers,  and'  these  will  be  inferior. 

The  best  exposure  is  a  southern  one ;  the  next  best 
an  eastern  one.  A  south  window  is  the  one  in  which 
to  grow  Geraniums,  Lantanas,  Heliotropes,  and  all 
plants  fond  of  much  sunshine,  while  the  eastern  one 
is  better  for  Begonias,  Fuchsias,  and  such  plants  as 
care  more  for  the  sun  in  the  early  part  of  the  day 
than  they  do  for  it  after  its  rays  become  more  intense. 
A  west  window  gives  too  much  heat  unless  shaded 
considerably,  but  it  is  better  than  no  window  at  all, 
and  if  you  have  no  other  to  give  your  plants,  don't  go 
without  them.  A  curtain  of  thin  muslin  will  temper 
the  heat  greatly,  and  vines  can  be  trained  over  the 
glass  in  such  a  way  as  to  break  the  fierceness  of  the 
sun's  rays.  A  north  window  is  not  suited  to  the 
needs  of  flowering  plants,  but  some  which  are  grown 
solely  for  foliage  can  be  kept  there.  Ferns,  Palms, 
Aspidistra,  Ficus  and  Lycopodiums  will  do  quite  as 
well  there  as  in  a  window  exposed  to  the  sun.  English 
Ivy  can  be  trained  about  it.  Tradescantia  in  baskets 
can  be  hung  up  in  it,  and  thus  it  can  be  made  beautiful 
without  flowers  if  you  have  a  love  for  "green  things 
growing." 

One  often  sees  weak,  scraggly  plants  in  the  sit- 
ting room  windows.  They  seem  to  have  grown  too 
rapidly  to  be  healthy.  Two  things  combine  to  bring 
this  about :  Lack  of  fresh  air  and  too  much  heat. 


l6  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

If  you  want  fine  plants — and  if  you  really  love 
flowers  you  want  nothing  else— you  must  give  them 
plenty  of  air.  (  They  breathe,  as  you  do,  and  without 
fresh  air  they  pine  and  become  diseased,  the  same  as 
you  would  under  similar  conditions.  You  occupy  the 
same  room,  it  is  true,  without  suffering  as  much  as 
your  plants  appear  to,  but  you  are  not  confined  to  it 
all  the  time,  as  they  are.  You  get  air  when  you  go 
out  of  it.  They  are  obliged  to  stay  in  Jt. j  Always 
have  your  window  arranged  in  such  a  manner  that  it 
can  be  lowered  at  the  top,  thus  letting  a  stream  of 
pure  air  blow  in  over  the  plants.  If  storm  sash  is 
used,  have  a  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  outside  sash, 
and  another  in  the  top  of  the  window  sash.  When 
these  holes  are  open,  a  stream  of  fresh  air  will  rush 
in  below,  flow  up  between  the  two  sashes  and  enter 
the  room  through  the  hole  in  the  top  of  the  window 
sash.  These  holes  can  be  left  open  the  greater 
part  of  the  day,  but  should  be  closed  at  night.  Opening 
doors  from  the  hall,  or  some  adjoining  room  into  which 
air  can  be  admitted  from  without,  will  let  in  a  supply 
which  your  plants  will  appreciate  fully.  Never  let  a 
stream  of  cold  air  blow  directly  on  them,  however. 
Aim  to  have~Ihe  cold  air  mix  with  the  warm  air  of  the 
room  before  it  reaches  them. 

The  air  of  the  living  room  is  generally  kept  too 
warm  and  dry  for  plants,  as  well  as  the  human  occu- 
pants of  the  room.  About  seventy  degrees  during  the 
day  time  and  fifteen  degrees  less  at  night  would  suit 
such  plants  as  one  finds  in  ordinary  collections. 

Aim  to  keep  the  temperature  as  even  as  possible. 
Too  great  heat  forces  a  weak  growth,  and  has  a  ten- 
dency to  blast  any  buds  that  may  form. 

In  a  room  where  the  air  is  warm  and  dry,  the 
red  spider  will  do  deadly  work.  In  order  to  keep 
him  at  bay,  the  plants  must  be  given  as  much  moisture 


CARE      OF      PLANTS      IN      THE      WINDOW  17 

as  possible.  Keep  a  vessel  of  water  on  the  stove,  to 
evaporate.  Shower  the  plants  daily.  If  the  pots  are 
used  without  saucers,  the  table  on  which  they  stand, 
or  the  shelves,  can  be  covered  with  an  inch  of  sand 
which  can  be  kept  in  place  by  tacking  cleats  along 
the  edge  of  the  stand.  This  sand  will  take  up  and 
retain  the  water  which  runs  through  the  pots,  and  thus 
a  steady  moisture  will  be  given  off  from  it,  for  there 
will  be  constant  evaporation  taking  place.  Keep  the 
air  of  the  room  in  which  plants  are  kept  as  moist  as 
possible,  if  you  want  to  grow  strong,  healthy  plants. 
This  is  a  very  important  item,  and  should  not  be 
neglected. 

Showering  daily  helps  to  keep  the  foliage  clean ; 
and  unless  the  dust,  which  settles  on  the  plants  when 
sweeping  the  room,  is  cleared  away,  the  pores  of  the 
leaves  become  clogged,  and  the  plant  finds  it  difficult  to 
breathe,  for  the  pores  of  the  leaves  are  really  the  lungs 
of  the  plant. 

In  a  moist  atmosphere  many  plants  can  be  grown 
which  would  die  in  a  dry  air,  and  all  plants  do  so 
much  better  where  there  is  plenty  of  moisture  in  sus- 
pension that  the  amateur  who  wants  his  plants  to  do 
their  best  will  aim  to  supply  it.  It  has  often  been 
observed  that  fine  plants  are  often  found  growing  in 
the  kitchen,  while  those  in  the  parlor  are  sickly.  The 
explanation  of  this  is :  The  kitchen  air  is  moist, 
because  of  the  cooking,  washing,  and  other  work  of 
that  kind  going  on  there,  while  the  parlor  air  has  all 
the  moisture  extracted  from  it  by  intense  stove  and 
furnace  heat  which  there  is  no  moisture  to  modify. 

Stir  the  soil  in  the  pots  at  least  once  a  week.  An 
old  fork  is  a  good  tool  to  do  this  with.  This  allows  the 
air  to  penetrate/to  the  roots,  and  keeps  weeds  from 
getting  a  startV  Keep  all  dead  leaves  picked  off,  and 
remove  fading  flowers.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  cover 


1 8  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

your  plants  with  a  thin  sheet,  or  a  newspaper,  when 
sweeping.  It  is  another  good  plan  to  remove  them 
to  the  kitchen  at  least  once  in  two  weeks,  and  give 
them  a  thorough  washing.  This  helps  to  keep  down 
insects,  and  prevents  them  from  becoming  incrusted 
with  dust. 

By  all  means  provide  yourself  with  one  of  the 
brass    syringes   ( Fig    2)   or    elastic    plant    sprinklers 


FIG   2 — PARLOR   SYRINGE 


(Fig  3)   for  sale  by  dealers  in  florists'  goods.     With 
one  of  these  you  can  throw  a  strong  stream  or  a  spray 


FIG    3 — ELASTIC    PLANT    SPRINKLER 

of  water  over  and  among  your  plants,  and  apply  it 
effectively,  which  you  cannot  do  if  you  depend  on  a 


CARE     OF     PLANTS     IN      THE      WINDOW  IQ 

whisk  broom  for  a  sprinkler.     A  "sprinkler"  is  not 
what  you  need,  but  something  that  has  force  enough 


FIG  4 — FOUNTAIN   PUMP 

to  take  the  water  in  all  directions,  and  in  such  quan- 
tities, and  with  -such  volume,  as  the  case  may  require. 
For  specially  constructed  plant  rooms,  or  conserva- 
tories, the  fountain  pump  (Fig  4)  is  best  suited. 

Turn  your  plants  at  least  twice  a  week  so  that  they 
will  get  the  sun  and  light  on  all  sides.  This  prevents 
their  becoming  drawn  to  one  side,  as  they  will  be  sure 
to  do  if  not  turned  frequently.  Don't  neglect  to  do 
this  if  you  want  good-shaped  specimens.  And  be  sure 
to  give  all  the  light  possible;  don't  shut  it  out  from 
the  window  where  you  have  plants,  by  curtains  or 
lambrequins.  Let  your  plants  furnish  the  beauty  for 
the  window.  Some  are  afraid  of  letting  in  the  sunshine 
upon  their  plants  because  it  will  fade  the  carpet.  If 
you  care  more  for  your  carpet  than  you  do  for  your 
flowers,  give  them  to  some  one  who  is  willing  to  do 
the  fair  thing  by  them,  and  concentrate  your  energies 
on  the  protection  of  the  precious  carpet,  but  don't 
attempt  to  compromise  matters  between  the  two,  for 
this  will  surely  result  in  failure,  so  far  as  your  plants 
are  concerned. 


CHAPTER    V 

THE      PROPAGATION      OF      PLANTS 

Most  window  plants  are  propagated  from  cuttings, 
or  "slips."  A  cutting  is  a  piece  of  branch.  If  the 
lower  end  is  inserted  in  soil,  the  branch,  if  in  proper 
condition,  will  form  roots,  and  in  this  way  you  obtain  a 
new  plant.  By  proper  condition  is  meant  the  condition 
of  the  wood  at  the  time  the  cutting  is  taken.  It  should 
not  be  of  too  recent  a  growth,  neither  should  it  be 
of  too  old  a  growth.  The  cutting,  if  too  "green,"  is 
likely  to  decay  before  roots  can  be  formed ;  if  too  old, 
roots  often  refuse  to  start.  A  "happy  medium" 
between  the  two  stages  of  plant  growth  should  be 
sought  for  in  selecting  cuttings.  Let  the  branch  be 
firm,  but  not  tough.  If,  when  you  bend  it  between 
your  fingers,  it  seems  inclined  to  break,  and  yet  does 
not,  it  is  in  about  the  fit  condition  to  "strike."  This 
is  not  laid  down  as  a  rule  to  go  by,  but  it  indicates  as 
accurately  as  any  test  that  can  be  given  the  amateur, 
the  proper  condition  of  the  wood  of  most  plants  from 
which  it  is  desired  to  take  cuttings.  Study  and  obser- 
vation of  the  characteristics  of  plants  will  enable  a 
person  to  tell  at  a  glance  which  cutting  to  take  and 
which  to  reject,  but  it  is  a  difficult,  if  not  an  impossible, 
matter  to  make  this  clear  in  words. 

I  always  start  cuttings  in  clear  sand.  Take  a 
shallow  dish — a  soup  plate  is  as  good  as  anything — 
and  fill  it  with  the  cleanest  sand  you  can  find.  Let  it 
be  somewhat  sharp  and  gritty,  rather  than  fine,  for  if 
too  fine  it  will  become  like  mud  when  wet.  Insert  your 
cuttings  in  it,  letting  the  ends  of  them  reach  down 
through  it  and  come  in  contact  with  the  plate.  Water, 


PROPAGATION     OF     PLANTS  21 

giving  enough  to  make  the  sand  thoroughly  wet  all 
through,  and  aim  to  keep  it  in  this  condition.  Set  in 
a  warm  place.  A  sunny  window  answers  very  well. 
If  you  allow  the  sand  to  get  dry  the  young  roots  will 
be  injured,  if  not  killed,  and  the  result  is  that  you  are 
quite  likely  to  lose  your  cutting  by  your  neglect  to 


MG    5 — SAUCER    PROPAGATION 

give  the  proper  care.  Most  cuttings  will  start  roots 
in  a  week,  but  they  should  not  be  taken  from  the  sand 
for  at  least  two  or  three  weeks.  When  young  leaves 
are  put  forth  freely  you  may  know  that  it  is  safe  to 
transfer  the  young  plant  to  a  pot.  This  method  of 
propagation  is  shown  in  Fig  5. 

Such  plants  as  the  Bouvardia  and  Chrysanthe- 
mum can  be  propagated  easily  by  making  division 
of  the  roots,  and  this  method  is  to  be  preferred  to 
taking  cuttings  of  them.  Geraniums  will  grow  if  the 
end  of  the  cutting  comes  in  contact  with  any  kind 
of  soil.  Heliotropes  start  easily,  as  do  Fuchsias, 
Lantanas,  Pelargoniums  and  Abutilons.  The  Carna- 
tion is  propagated  most  surely  by  layering.  This 
method  consists  in  bending  down  a  branch  without 
severing  it  from  the  parent  plant,  and  inserting  it,  at 
the  bend,  in  soil.  It  is  well  to  give  the  branch  a 
little  twist,  or  to  about  half  cut  through  it  at  the 
place  where  the  bend  is.  This  cut,  or  fracture, 
interrupts  the  flow  of  sap  in  some  degree,  and  leads 


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HOME      FLORICULTURE 


to  the  formation  of  roots  with  more  certainty  than 
would  be  the  case  if  it  were  not  made.  When  roots 
have  been  formed  the  young  plant  can  be  cut  away 
from  the  old  one,  and  put  in  a  pot  by  itself. 

The  Rex  Begonia  and  Gloxinia  can  be  propagated 
by  the  leaves.     Take  a  leaf  of  either  plant,   .nake  a 


FIG    6 — BEGONIA   LEAF   PRODUCING    YOUNG    PLANTS 

few  cuts  across  the  thick  ribs  on  the  back  of  them, 
and  then  lay  them  on  damp  sand.  Soon  roots  will 
form,  and  by  and  by  you  will  have  plants  from  them, 
as  seen  in  Fig  6. 

Soemtimes,  when  Dracaenas  and  Ficuses  become 
too  tall  for  the  window,  the  owner  would  be  glad  to 
shorten  them,  but  hesitates  about  cutting  off  the  top, 


PROPAGATION      OF      PLANTS  23 

fearing  that  branches  will  not  form  along  that  portion 
of  the  stalk  which  is  left.  In  such  cases  I  would 
advise  this  treatment:  Cut  into  the  stalk,  on  each 
side,  where  you  want  roots  to  form,  making  the  cut 
upward,  and  about  one-third  across,  one  cut  a  little 
below  the  other.  Then  crowd  sphagnum  moss  into  the 
clefts  made,  and  bind  some  of  it  about  the  plant,  at 
that  point.  Keep  it  wet.  By  and  by  roots  will  form. 
After  these  have  grown  through  the  moss,  the  top 
can  be  severed  from  the  parent  stalk,  and  potted  in 
soil.  Success  depends  on  the  constant  moisture  of  the 
moss.  Allow  it  to  get  entirely  dry  and  in  all  proba- 
bility your  attempt  will  end  in  failure. 


CHAPTER     VI 

TRAINING     PLANTS 

The  Abutilon,  Chrysanthemum,  Fuchsia,  and 
many  other  shrubby  plants  suitable  to  culture  in  the 
window  garden,  can  be  trained  in  various  ways  to  suit 
the  taste  of  the  owner.  You  can  have  them  like 
miniature  trees,  or  as  shrubs.  If  you  prefer  the  tree 
shape,  let  a  straight  stalk  grow  to  the  hight  of  two  or 
three  feet.  Allow  no  branches  to  start  along  this  stalk. 
When  it  has  reached  the  hight  where  you  want  the  head 
to  form,  cut  off  the  top.  In  a  short  time  branches 
will  be  likely  to  start  along  the  stalk,  but  all  of  these 
except  a  few  at  or  near  the  top  must  be  rubbed  off. 
Let  these  which  you  leave  make  a  growth  of  four  or 
five  inches,  and  then  nip  the  ends  of  them  off.  This 
will  induce  branches  to  start  at  nearly  every  leaf.  In 
this  way,  by  keeping  up  the  "nipping"  or  "pinching- 
in"  process,  you  can  force  as  many  branches  to  grow 
as  will  be  required  to  form  a  bushy,  compact  head. 
The  Abutilon  and  Chrysanthemum  are  especially 
adapted  to  this  manner  of  training.  Some  of  the 
stout-growing  Fuchsias,  like  Rose  of  Castile,  make 
fine  little  trees,  but  most  varieties  are  too  slender  in 
habit  to  grow  satisfactorily  in  this  form. 

If  you  prefer  a  shrubby  plant,  with  branches 
from  the  pot  up,  you  must  begin  your  pinching-in 
while  the  plant  is  small.  Nip  off  the  top  when  five  or 
six  inches  of  growth  has  been  made.  Four  or  five 
branches  will  probably  start  below.  If  these  are  supped 
off  when  they  have  grown  long  enough  to  have  half 
a  dozen  leaves  each,  they  will  throw  out  branches, 
and  thus  you  secure  a  bushy  plant,  which,  to  my 


TRAINING     PLANTS  2$ 

mind,  is  more  satisfactory  than  one  trained  in  tree 
form. 

Geraniums,  unless  given  a  good  deal  of  attention 
in  the  first  six  months  of  their  growth,  will  become 
awkward  looking  plants,  and  it  will  be  impossible  to 
bring  them  into  good  shape  later.  You  must  begin 
with  the  young  plant  if  you  want  to  make  it  sym- 
metrical. Symmetry  is  not  the  only  result  of  proper 
pinching-in.  If  you  force  it  to  branch  freely,  as  you 
can  by  persistent  nipping  off  the  ends  of  the  branches 
until  you  have  a  dozen  or  more  starting  near  the  base 
of  the  plant,  you  will  have  much  greater  flowering 
surface  than  a  plant  left  to  train  itself  will  ever 
develop.  Sometimes  plants  obstinately  refuse  to 
branch  as  you  want  them  to,  but  don't  despair  of 
success,  and  don't  give  up  to  them  and  let  them  have 
their  way.  Convince  them  by  persevering  in  your 
treatment  that  you  mean  to  make  them  come  to  your 
terms.  They  will  be  anxious  to  grow,  and  when  they 
find  that  they  cannot  make  growth  to  suit  themselves, 
they  will  give  in  to  you,  and  grow  as  you  want  them 
to.  You  must  have  patience  with  them,  and  persevere 
in  your  efforts,  and  be  kind  to  them.  Ultimately  your 
reward  will  come  in  the  shape  of  a  fine  plant,  regular 
in  outline,  well  branched,  and  with  plenty  of  healthy 
foliage  and  beautiful  flowers. 

Sometimes  a  branch  will  outgrow  the  other 
branches  on  a  plant.  As  soon  as  you  notice  an 
inclination  to  do  this,  check  it  by  nipping  it  back. 
This  will  give  the  other  branches  a  chance  to  catch 
up  with  it  before  it  gets  a  fresh  start.  It  may  be 
necessary,  at  times^  to  cut  off  the  branch.  It  is  better 
to  sacrifice  it  wholly  than  to  allow  it  to  take  to  itself 
the  greater  share  of  the  vitality  of  the  plant. 

Fuchsias,  being  for  the  most  part  slender  growers, 
require  a  support  of  some  kind.  The  most  satisfac- 


26 


HOME      FLORICULTURE 


tory  one  I  have  ever  used  was  made  as  follows :  A 
rod  of  about  one-half-inch  round  iron  had  three  prongs 
like  those  of  a  fork  welded  to  one  end  of  it.  These 
prongs,  after  being  welded  to  the  rod,  were  bent  out 


FIG    7 — A    TASTEFULLY    ARRANGED    PLANT    WINDOW 

at  right  angles  from  it,  and  then  given  a  square 
downward  bend.  When  these  were  inserted  in  the  soil 
they  held  the  rod  rigidly  in  place,  because  of  their 
bracing  against  each  other,  and  of  the  "grip"  which 
they  got  on  the  soil.  The  upper  end  was  punched  full 
of  small  holes,  and  through  these  a  small  wire  was  run 


TRAINING     PLANTS  2^ 

in  an  irregular  fashion.  The  bends  or  curves  in  the 
wire  projected  for  a  foot  or  more  on  all  sides.  Through 
and  over  these  wires  the  branches  of  the  plant  were 
trained  in  such  a  manner  that  they  received  all  the 
support  they  required  without  being  given  any 
appearance  of  stiffness  or  primness,  which  is  almost 
always  the  result  of  training  this  plant  on  the  ordinary 
trellis.  The  ends  of  the  branches  had  a  natural  droop 
to  them,  and  the  wire  supports  were  unnoticed  after 
being  painted  green. 

The  Ivy  can  be  trained  about  the  window,  as  shown 
in  Fig  7,  and  along  the  ceiling,  or  made  to  cover 
screens  with  a  wealth  of  beautiful  foliage,  if  care  is 
taken  to  interlace  the  branches  smoothly  as  they 
develop.  This  is  a  most  tractable  plant,  and  one  of  the 
old  favorites,  which  no  collection  is  complete  without. 


CHAPTER    VII 

INSECTS      AND      HOW      TO      FIGHT      THEM 

Whoever  has  plants  must  expect  to  have  them 
attacked  by  insects.  Good  care  and  constant  attention 
will  do  much  toward  keeping  these  enemies  away, 
but  at  times  they  make  desperate  efforts  to  secure  pos- 
session of  your  pets,  and  often  they  succeed  in  doing 
it  before  you  are  aware  of  their  presence.  As  soon  as 
you  discover  them  go  to  work  to  get  rid  of  them,  and 
do  not  relax  your  efforts  until  you  feel  sure  that  the 
last  one  is  put  to  rout.  After  that  be  vigilant,  and  see 
that  they  are  kept  at  bay,  on  the  principle  that  an 
ounce  of  prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of  cure. 

The  aphis,  or  plant  louse,  is  the  pest  most  familiar 
to  those  who  have  but  few  plants.  It  breeds  with 
wonderful  rapidity.  You  may  see  a  few  to-day.  Next 
week  you  will  find  many  plants  literally  covered  with 
aphides.  Therefore,  when  you  discover  one  lose  no 
time  in  declaring  war  against  this  enemy.  The  lice 
suck  the  juices  from  tender  plants  and  soon  perma- 
nently injure  them.  If  left  to  carry  on  their  work  they 
will  kill  them. 

Until  within  a  few  years  past  fumigation  with 
tobacco  was  considered  the  most  effective  means  of 
getting  rid  of  this  pest.  But  most  women  objected 
to  it  because  its  fumes  sickened  them,  and  the  odor 
of  the  weed  clung  to  everything  in  the  house  for  days. 
In  greenhouses  it  is  still  used  to  some  extent,  but 
even  there  it  is  being  superseded  by  other,  and  less 
troublesome  methods.  An  extract  of  nicotine  is  on  the 
market  which  is  of  such  strength  that  a  spoonful  or 
two  of  it,  added  to  a  pailful  of  water,  furnishes  us 


INSECTS      AND      HOW      TO      FIGHT      THEM  2Q 

with  a  most  effective  weapon  against  the  aphis.  It 
can  be  syringed  over  infested  plants,  or  they  can  be 
dipped  in  it.  This  is  the  best  way  in  which  to  make 
use  of  the  tobacco  principle  in  fighting  insects,  but  it 
is  open  to  the  objection  of  being  unpleasantly  odorifer- 
ous, and  many  women  tell  me  they  cannot  make 
use  of  it. 

I  have  come  to  depend  entirely  on  a  homemade 
insecticide  in  fighting  the  aphis.  I  shave  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  the  ordinary  Ivory  soap  in  use  in  most 
households,  or  readily  obtainable  anywhere,  into  thin 
pieces.  These  I  cover  with  water  and  set  on  the  stove 
to  melt.  When  liquid,  I  add  to  a  pailful  of  water.  Into 
this  I  dip  my  plants.  If  they  are  large  ones,  I  prepare 
a  larger  amount  of  soap  and  water,  keeping  to  the 
proportions  named  above,  and  use  it  in  a  tub  sufficiently 
large  to  accommodate  my  plants.  I  find  this  bath  most 
effective.  Aphides  are  killed  and  no  plant  is  ever 
injured.  It  costs  but  little,  is  pleasant  to  prepare  and 
handle  and  is  always  at  hand.  A  good  many  profes- 
sional florists  to  whom  I  have  recommended  it  tell  me 
that  they  have  used  it  with  unvarying  success,  and 
prefer  it  to  anything  else  they  have  tried  in  fighting  the 
aphis.  This  insecticide  is  also  effective  against  the 
thrip  and  the  mealy  bug. 

One  of  the  most  destructive  insects  with  which 
the  owners  of  plants  have  to  measure  weapons  is  the 
red  spider.  He  does  his  most  effective  work  in  rooms 
where  the  air  is  hot  and  dry.  He  is  a  tiny  creature, 
and  often  his  presence  is  unsuspected.  The  leaves  of 
the  plants  begin  to  turn  yellow,  and  a  sickly  look  per- 
vades the  collection.  The  real  cause  of  the  trouble  is 
not  understood  until  you  happen  to  see,  on  the  under- 
side of  a  leaf,  a  little  web.  Examine  it  closely  and 
you  will  see  little  atoms  looking  more  like  a  grain  of 
cayenne  pepper  than  anything  else.  Watch  them 


3O  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

closely  and  you  will  see  them  move.  Then  you  will 
know  that  it  is  the  ravages  of  this  little  but  powerful 
insect  which  has  given  your  plants  such  a  woe- 
begone look. 

The  only  antidote  for  the  red  spider  that  I  have 
ever  found  effective  is — water.  "Only  this,  and  noth- 
ing more."  This  insect  will  not  stay  where  there  is 
much  moisture.  If  you  apply  water  to  your  plants 
daily,  putting  it  on  with  a  syringe,  and  throwing  it 
well  up  among  the  foliage,  so  that  it  reaches  the  under- 
side of  the  leaves  where  the  spider  lurks  because  the 
leaf  over  him  acts  as  a  sort  of  umbrella  which  protects 
him  from  falling  water,  you  can  soon  rout  him.  But 
this  treatment  must  be  thorough,  and  it  must  be  kept 
up,  for  if  you  abate  your  efforts  he  will  soon  return. 
Use  every  means  in  your  power  to  keep  the  air  moist 
at  all  times.  But  rely  on  showering  to  drive  him  away 
when  once  established.  Be  sure  to  remember  what 
has  been  said  about  getting  the  water  to  the  underside 
of  the  leaf.  In  greenhouses,  where  the  plants  are 
syringed  often,  the  spider  is  seldom  found  because 
the  air  is  charged  with  so  much  moisture  at  all  times 
that  it  is  not  pleasant  for  him.  This  condition  cannot 
be  secured  in  the  living  room,  but  much  can  be  done  to 
do  away  with  the  dryness  usually  found  there.  Some- 
times I  think  the  spider  a  blessing  in  disguise,  for 
the  water  which  you  apply  to  your  plants  in  fighting 
him  is  an  important  item  of  success  in  the  culture  of 
them,  and  were  it  not  for  the  fight  you  wage  they 
might  not  get  it. 

The  other  two  principal  enemies  of  house  plants 
are  mealy  bug  and  scale.  The  mealy  bug  looks  like  a 
tiny  bit  of  cotton.  The  scale  is  a  smooth,  flat  creature, 
adhering  closely  to  the  surface  of  such  smooth  leaved 
plants  as  the  Ivy,  Lemon  and  Oleander.  Both  are 
destructive.  Lemon  or  fir-tree  oil  will  rout  them  more 


INSECTS     AND     HOW     TO     FIGHT     THEM  3! 

effectively  than  anything  else  I  have  ever  tried,  though 
the  soap  insecticide  advised  for  the  extermination  of 
the  aphis  will  do  good  work  against  the  mealy  bug 
if  you  are  sure  to  get  it  where  he  lurks.  Scale, 
however,  does  not  succumb  to  it  so  readily,  and  it 
becomes  necessary  to  use  something  stronger  to  rout 
this  formidable  enemy  of  Palms  and  other  smooth 
leaved  plants,  and  of  many  kinds  of  Fern,  especially 
the  Sword  varieties,  which  are  now  so  extensively 
grown.  Let  me  say,  in  this  connection,  that  the  scale 
on  Ferns  is  generally  somewhat  different  in  shape  from 
that  on  such  plants  as  the  Palm— so  much  so  that 
some  persons  hardly  think  it  possible  for  them  to 
be  of  the  same  family.  Palm  scale  is  generally  small, 
and  quite  flat,  sometimes  white,  sometimes  brown. 
Fern  scale  is  generally  plump  and  well  rounded  on  its 
upper  part,  and  is  almost  always  brown,  or  greenish- 
brown,  in  color  and  considerably  larger  than  the  sort 
found  on  harder  foliaged  plants.  The  use  of  either  of 
the  oils  named  will  rout  this  enemy.  Directions  for 
the  preparation  of  the  wash  accompany  them.  Apply 
with  a  soft  rag,  or  a  brush  stiff  enough  to  remove  the 
insect  after  the  application  has  done  its  work.  Use  this 
bath  frequently,  after  you  have  rid  your  plants  of  the 
pest,  to  prevent  its  return. 


CHAPTER    VIII 

CARE      OF      HOUSE      PLANTS      DURING      SUMMER      AND 

FALL 

House  plants  should  not  be  put  out  of  doors  at 
the  North  before  the  first  of  June.  Cool  nights  and 
late  frosts  are  of  frequent  occurrence  through  the 
month  of  May  north  of  New  York  City,  and  whoever 
puts  plants  out  very  early,  as  many  do,  may  wake  up 
some  morning  and  find  them  nipped. 

The  question  is  often  asked :  What  is  it  best  to 
do  with  our  plants  during  summer?  Whether  to  keep 
them  on  the  veranda,  to  sink  the  pots  containing  them 
in  the  ground,  or  turn  them  out  of  their  pots.  I  have 
tried  all  three  ways,  and  from  my  experience  I  would 
advise  the  amateur  to  keep  the  plants  in  pots,  in  some 
sheltered  place,  through  the  summer  months.  It  is 
true  that  plants  in  pots  will  require  more  attention 
than  they  would  if  planted  out.  But  the  advantages 
are,  that  you  have  them  where  they  will  require  more 
or  less  care,  and,  knowing  this,  you  will  not  be  likely 
to  neglect  them.  And  when  fall  comes,  your  plants  are 
in  the  pots,  and  there  is  no  lifting  and  potting  to  be 
done,  a  process  which  always  results  in  a  severe  check 
to  a  plant  at  the  very  time  when  it  ought  to  be  steadily 
going  ahead.  I  spoke  of  neglect.  Right  here  let  me 
say  that  it  never  pays  to  neglect  a  plant.  You  may 
save  a  little  in  labor  by  doing  so,  but  you  lose  in  the 
development  of  the  plant,  and  I  never  advise  any 
method  of  caring  for  plants  which  would  encourage 
neglect. 

Most  persons  seem  to  think  that  it  doesn't  much 
matter  how  plants  are  carried  over  the  summer.  They 


CARE     OF      HOUSE      PLANTS  33 

have  an  idea  that  about  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  keep 
them  alive  till  fall.  Then  they  will  take  them  in  hand 
and  make  satisfactory  plants  of  them  for  winter  use. 
This  is  all  wrong.  The  summer  is  the  time  in  which 
to  make  preparations  for  the  winter  campaign.  If  you 
want  fine  plants  in  winter  you  must  make  them  fine 
plants  before  winter  comes.  If  you  neglect  them  in 
summer  you  will  find  that  it  is  too  late  to  get  them 
in  condition  for  winter  work  in  fall.  It  will  take  nearly 
all  winter  to  get  a  plant  which  has  been  neglected  in 
summer  in  good  condition,  and  by  the  time  you  have 
accomplished  this,  if  you  succeed  in  doing  so,  which 
is  doubtful,  it  will  be  about  time  to  put  it  out  of  doors. 
But  if  your  plants  begin  the  winter  in  strong,  healthy 
condition,  you  may  reasonably  expect  a  great  deal  from 
them  if  you  give  them  proper  care. 

Plants  intended  for  winter  use  ought  to  be  given 
a  good  deal  of  care  during  the  summer.  They  must  be 
encouraged  to  make  satisfactory  growth.  They  must 
be  pinched  in  to  produce  plenty  of  branches  to  give 
flowering  surface,  and  to  make  them  compact  and  sym- 
metrical. You  are  to  remember  that  you  are  now  laying 
a  foundation  for  what  you  hope  to  realize,  later  on. 
Your  aim  should  always  be  to  have  them  in  the  best 
possible  condition  at  all  times,  and  your  summer's  work 
must  be  done  with  reference  to  the  future.  Never 
expect  much  from  plants,  in  winter,  which  were  "poor 
specimens"  in  fall.  If  you  do,  quite  likely  you  will  be 
disappointed. 

If  plants  are  "plunged,"  which  is  the  term 
gardeners  use  when  they  mean  that  the  pots  containing 
the  plants  are  sunk  in  the  earth  up  to  their  rims,  they 
are  pretty  sure  to  suffer.  The  soil  about  the  roots, 
inside  the  pot,  will  become  much  drier  than  that  about 
the  pot,  on  the  outside  of  it,  for,  though  most  pots 
are  porous,  they  do  not  admit  moisture  in  sufficient 


34  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

quantity  to  keep  the  earth  in  them  moist  enough  to 
meet  the  requirements  of  the  young  and  delicate  roots. 
This  difficulty  can  be  overcome  by  daily  applications 
of  water,  but  the  fact  is  that  plunged  plants  are  pretty 
sure  to  be  neglected  because  the  soil  about  them  seems 
moist,  and  the  fact  of  lack  of  moisture  inside  the  pot 
is  lost  sight  of,  or  not  understood.  They  are  also 
likely  to  be  injured  by  wind  and  sudden  storms,  and 
if  care  is  not  taken  to  put  a  layer  of  wood  or  coal 
ashes  under  the  pots — and  this  will  not  be  done  once 
in  ten  times,  I  presume — worms  will  effect  an  entrance 
through  the  hole  in  the  bottom.  And  in  nine  cases 
out  of  ten,  you  will  find  when  you  come  to  take  up 
the  plants  in  fall,  that  they  have  sent  roots  down 
through  this  hole,  and  these  roots,  which  are  young 
and  strong  ones,  must  be  broken  off  to  the  injury 
of  the  plant  in  a  greater  or  less  degree. 

In  turning  plants  out  of  their  pots  and  planting 
them  in  the  open  ground,  the  owner  avoids  the  care 
necessary  to  give  them  when  kept  in  pots,  and  may 
feel  confident  of  the  vigorous  growth  they  will  be 
pretty  sure  to  make.  But  when  cold  weather 
approaches,  and  the  plants  have  to  be  taken  up  and 
potted,  a  "change  will  come  o'er  the  spirit  of  his 
dream."  It  will  then  be  found  that  the  roots  have 
spread  far  and  wide  about  the  plants.  The  little 
plant  from  a  four-inch  pot  will  have  made  such  a 
surprising  increase  of  roots  that  a  peck  measure  would 
not  contain  them  all,  and  of  course  it  is  out  of  the 
question  to  give  them  such  large  pots  as  really  seem 
necessary.  In  trying  to  reduce  the  earth  about  them 
to  fit  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  be  placed  it  will 
be  found  that  most  of  the  large  roots  have  to  be  cut 
away,  and  all  the  others  disturbed  more  or  less.  In 
cutting  away  these  strong,  feeding  roots,  and  expos- 


CARE     OF    HOUSE      PLANTS  35 

ing  the  others,  the  plant  receives  a  violent  shock  from 
which  it  will  take  it  months  to  recover. 

Of  course,  after  cutting  off  some  of  the  roots,  the 
top  must  be  cut  back  correspondingly,  or  the  plant 
would  be  likely  to  die,  for  there  will  not  be  sufficient 
root  action  to  support  all  the  old  branches.  If  cut 
back  at  the  roots,  new  roots  will  have  to  be  formed 
before  growth  can  take  place.  The  plant  must  first 
become  re-established.  You  will  readily  see,  therefore, 
that  when  this  plan  is  pursued  you  have,  in  fall,  at 
the  very  time  when  the  plant  should  be  at  its  best — 
strong,  vigorous,  and  able  to  stand  the  change  from 
out  to  indoor  conditions — a  plant  getting,  or  trying 
to  get,  a  fresh  start;  a  plant  that  has  received  a 
shock,  whereby  its  vitality  is  greatly  weakened.  The 
change  from  out  to  indoor  life  will  be  so  abrupt  and 
so  decided  that  it  will  be  still  further  weakened  by  it. 
Out  of  doors,  in  fresh  air,  and  under  natural  condi- 
tions, it  might  recover  much  sooner;  but  the  close 
living  room,  with  its  dry  air,  and  great  heat,  will 
hasten  the  down-hill  tendency  of  the  plant,  and  it  is 
not  to  be  wondered  at  that  so  many  die  in  fall  when 
brought  into  the  house.  Of  course,  if  plants  could  be 
taken  up  without  disturbing  the  roots,  this  method  of 
summering  them  would  be  a  good  one,  because  they 
grow  so  much  better  and  are  more  robustly  healthy 
in  the  open  ground  than  when  kept  in  pots.  But  as 
it  is  utterly  impossible  to  take  them  up  without  dis- 
turbing the  roots,  I  would  not  advise  planting  them 
out  in  summer. 

I  would  advise  keeping  house  plants  during  sum- 
mer on  a  veranda  with  eastern  or  northern  exposure. 
If  you  have  only  a  southern  or  western  one,  give  a 
screen  of  lattice  or  vines.  The  sun  will  burn  many 
tender  plants  exposed  to  it  from  noon  to  three  o'clock. 
An  eastern  or  northern  exposure  is  preferable,  because 


36  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

no  screen  will  be  required,  and  therefore  there  will  be 
a  freer  circulation  of  air.  The  heat  will  also  be  much 
less  intense.  Water  daily,  and  give  a  liberal  quantity 
to  all  plants  which  you  want  to  make  a  vigorous 
growth.  If  some  are  needing  rest — as  will  be  the 
case  with  most  winter  blooming  kinds — give  less — 
just  enough,  in  fact,  to  keep  the  earth  from  getting 
so  dry  that  the  plant  will  wilt.  Go  over  your  plants 
once  a  week,  and  when  you  see  a  branch  getting 
the  start  of  the  others,  nip  it  off.  If  a  plant  persists 
in  growing  tall  and  "leggy,"  cut  the  top  off,  and  keep 
on  doing  this  until  branches  start  along  the  stalk. 
Now  is  the  time  to  make  your  plants  assume  the 
bushy,  compact  shape  you  will  want  them  to  have 
when  removed  to  the  house  in  winter.  Stir  the  soil  in 
the  pots  once  a  week.  If  fresh  soil  was  given  in 
spring,  do  not  give  any  fertilizer.  You  do  not  want 
to  force  the  growth  at  all — simply  to  keep  it  growing 
steadily  and  healthily. 

When  the  time  comes  to  take  in  your  plants,  do 
not  make  the  change  from  out  to  indoors  an  abrupt 
one,  as  many  do.  They  put  them  in  the  sitting  room 
window  and  seem  to  take  it  for  granted  that  that 
is  all  that  is  necessary.  Not  so.  The  plants  have 
had  plenty  of  fresh,  cool  air  out  of  doors,  and  if 
denied  this  all  at  once,  they  pine  and  suffer.  Give 
them  all  the  fresh  air  possible  for  days  after  putting 
them  in  the  house.  Keep  them  as  cool  as  possible. 
It  is  better  to  put  them  in  a  room  where  there  is  no 
fire,  at  first.  Accustom  them  to  the  change  between 
out  and  indoor  conditions  as  gradually  as  possible. 
Don't  be  abrupt  about  it  if  you  want  your  plants  to 
do  well.  I  often  am  told  by  amateurs  that  their  plants 
were  budded  when  brought  in,  but  the  buds  turned 
yellow  and  fell  off  in  a  week  or  t\vo,  and  they  don't 
understand  the  cause  of  it.  It  almost  always  happens 


CARE     OF     HOUSE     PLANTS  37 

because  the  plants  are  kept  too  warm  and  get  very 
little  fresh  air,  after  being  brought  into  the  house — 
in  other  words,  there  is  too  abrupt  and  violent  a  change 
in  conditions,  and  the  shock  is  so  severe  that  they  are 
unable  to  overcome  it,  and  in  consequence  they  drop 
their  buds. 


CHAPTER     IX 

FERTILIZERS 

Most  plants  need  a  fertilizer  of  some  kind,  at 
certain  periods.  But  care  must  be  taken  in  the  use 
of  them.  They  should  never  be  given  to  a  plant  in 
a  dormant  condition,  or  to  a  sickly  one.  The  resting 
plant  will  be  excited  by  it,  and  efforts  in  the  direction 
of  growth  will  be  made  prematurely.  It  will  act  on 
the  sickly  plant  very  much  as  rich  food  acts  on  a 
debilitated  person,  and  aggravate  diseased  conditions, 
instead  of  assisting  in  the  restoration  of  health.  A 
plant  should  be  growing,  or  beginning  to  grow,  before 
any  fertilizer  is  applied  to  it. 

Liquid  manure  is  greatly  advised.  The  formula 
for  preparing  it  is  this :  Take  dry  manure — from  the 
cow  yard,  preferably — and  pour  hot  water  over  it. 
This  will  soak  into  and  soften  the  material,  and  by  and 
by,  when  more  water  is  applied,  some  will  run  away 
at  the  opening  in  the  lower  part  of  the  barrel  or 
box  used,  and  this  is  the  liquid  manure  you  are  to 
make  use  of.  It  should  be  diluted,  if  dark  in  color, 
until  it  has  the  brown  tint  of  rather  weak  table  tea. 
Never  use  it  when  almost  black,  because  that  indicates 
greater  strength  than  the  ordinary  plant  can  stand. 
This  can  be  applied  to  plants  like  the  Chrysanthemum, 
and  others  which  are  gross  feeders,  as  often  as  once 
a  week  if  they  are  in  soil  of  only  ordinary  richness. 
For  most  plants,  however,  once  in  ten  days  or  two 
weeks  will  be  often  enough  to  use  it.  Rapid  develop- 
ment is  not  desirable.  Rather  a  steady,  but  vigorous 
and  healthy  growth, 


FERTILIZERS  39 

If  cow  manure  or  other  fertilizer  has  been  mixed 
with  the  soil  in  which  your  plants  are  growing,  no 
other  fertilizer  will  be  needed  until  the  plants  have 
nearly  exhausted  the  nutritive  elements  in  the  soil. 
When  the  leaves  of  a  growing  plant  become  smaller 
and  smaller,  as  they  are  produced,  and  it  loses  its 
vigor  in  the  development  of  stalk  and  branch,  it  is 
safe  to  conclude  that  more  food  is  needed.  The  use 
of  fertilizers  makes  it  unnecessary  to  repot  plants 
oftener  than  once  a  year.  Indeed,  by  using  them 
judiciously,  plants  can  be  kept  in  the  same  soil,  for  a 
much  longer  period,  in  perfect  health,  as  good  fer- 
tilizers furnish  the  elements  of  plant  growth  in  a 
condensed  form  and  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  readily 
assimilated  by  all  plants.  Plants  about  to  come  into 
bloom  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  the  application  of 
a  reliable  fertilizer.  It  will  increase  the  size  of  the 
flowers  and  intensify  their  richness  of  color. 

Ammonia  is  frequently  advised  as  a  fertilizer. 
Those  who  advise  its  use  do  not  understand  the 
difference  between  a  stimulant  and  an  application 
containing  the  elements  of  plant  growth.  These  will 
be  found  in  all  reliable  fertilizers,  but  ammonia  simply 
stimulates  a  plant  to  greater  activity,  temporarily,  with- 
out furnishing  any  real  food. 

Bone  meal  is  good,  because  it  is  rich  in  nutritive 
qualities.  It  can  be  mixed  with  the  soil  about  the 
roots  of  plants.  A  teaspoonful  once  a  month  to  a 
seven  or  eight-inch  pot  will  be  sufficient.  It  can  be 
used  on  larger  or  smaller  pots  in  a  similar  proportion. 
If  an  immediate  effect  is  desired,  get  very  fine  bone 
meal,  or  bone  dust,  instead  of  the  ordinary  bone  meal 
sold  at  agricultural  stores. 


CHAPTER     X 

DISEASED      PLANTS 

When  a  plant  that  has  been  making  satisfactory 
growth  suddenly  drops  its  leaves,  you  may  be  quite 
sure  that  its  health  has  been  injured  in  some  way. 
Possibly  the  cause  may  be  the  red  spider,  but  if,  after 
examination,  you  find  none  of  these  insects  at  work, 
you  will  be  obliged  to  look  in  other  directions  to 
ascertain  the  source  of  trouble.  It  may  come  from 
overpotting,  which  means  that  you  have  given  the 
plant  a  pot  containing  more  soil  than  it  needs;  or  it 
may  come  from  too  much  water  at  the  roots,  or  too 
great  heat ;  or  gas  in  the  room.  Or  it  may  be  attribu- 
table to  too  great  stimulation  or  the  use  of  a  fertilizer 
in  too  great  quantities.  Possibly  worms  in  the  soil 
may  be  the  cause. 

Before  beginning  any  kind  of  treatment,  try  to 
find  out  what  has  caused  the  difficulty.  When  you 
have  ascertained  that,  you  can  go  to  work  intelli- 
gently. If  the  pot  is  too  large,  put  the  plant  in  a 
smaller  one.  If  too  much  water  is  retained  in  the  soil, 
see  to  the  drainage.  That  must  be  defective.  If  too 
strong  a  fertilizer  has  been  given,  repot  the  plant, 
putting  it  into  a  soil  of  moderate  richness.  If  the  heat 
of  the  room  is  too  intense,  temper  it  in  some  way,  and 
give  plenty  of  fresh  air. 

In  treating  a  sick  plant  let  the  soil  get  quite  dry. 
Then  repot  the  plant.  Give  a  small  pot,  and  remove 
all  the  diseased  roots.  If  a  new  pot  is  used,  soak  it 
well  before  potting  the  plant.  If  an  old  one  is  used, 
clean  it  thoroughly.  After  putting  your  plant  in  it, 
water  moderately,  and  then  wait  till  the  plant  shows 


DISEASED      PLANTS  4! 

signs  of  growing  before  giving  more,  unless  the  soil 
is  likely  to  get  very  dry. 

Sometimes  a  plant  becomes  diseased  because  of 
impurities  in  the  soil.  Such  plants  are  often  greatly 
benefited,  and  frequently  restored  to  health  by  the 
application  of  hot  water.  Let  it  be  at  least  one  hundred 
and  twenty  degrees  Fahrenheit.  Use  enough  to  thor- 
oughly saturate  all  the  soil  in  the  pot.  A  hot  bath 
of  this  kind  dissolves,  and  counteracts  and  removes 
existing  impurities  to  a  great  extent,  when  nothing 
else  will. 

Never  give  a  fertilizer  of  any  kind,  or  a  stimulant, 
to  a  sick  plant.  Wait  till  it  has  begun  to  grow  and 
takes  on  a  healthy  look.  Then  give  it  with  great 
caution.  A  healthy  action  must  be  restored  before  it 
will  be  safe  to  give  strong  food.  It  will  be  injured 
by  fertilizers  if  they  are  given  too  soon,  just  the  same 
as  a  person  recovering  from  a  severe  illness  is  injured 
by  overfeeding.  His  digestive  organs  are  not  in  a 
condition  to  make  use  of  the  food,  consequently  instead 
of  its  strengthening  him  as  it  ought  to,  and  as  it  would 
if  he  were  able  to  assimilate  it,  it  increases  the  weak- 
ness of  the  organs  brought  into  operation.  Give  them 
a  chance  to  regain  lost  strength  and  tone  before  asking 
much  of  them. 

If  the  trouble  comes  from  worms  in  the  soil,  take 
a  piece  of  fresh  lime  as  large  as  a  teacup,  and  dissolve 
it  in  a  ten-quart  pailful  of  water.  When  dissolved, 
pour  off  the  clear  water  and  apply  to  your  plants, 
giving  enough  to  thoroughly  saturate  the  soil.  This 
will  almost  always  drive  out  or  kill  the  worms,  and 
seldom  injures  the  plants.  If  one  application  is  not 
sufficient,  repeat  it.  Most  plants  are  benefited  by  the 
use  of  lime  water  occasionally,  as  there  is  an  element 
of  plant  growth  in  the  lime.  I  depend  on  this  in 
fighting  the  worm,  and  it  generally  gives  complete 


42  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

satisfaction  if  used  as  directed.  But  the  use  of  a  few 
spoonfuls  will  accomplish  nothing.  The  soil  must  be 
soaked  all  through  with  it.  No  one  need  fear  to  use 
it,  because  water  can  hold  only  a  certain  amount  of 
the  active  qualities  of  lime  in  suspension,  therefore, 
if  the  clear  water  is  used,  no  harm  can  be  done  by. 
it.  As  a  general  thing  worms  are  introduced  by  the 
use  of  cow  manure.  This  is  why  I  advise  the  use  of 
such  fertilizers  as  will  not  breed  worms.  By  applying 
hot  water  to  manure  in  the  preparation  of  liquid 
/ertilizer,  the  larvae  in  the  material  can  generally  be 
killed,  but  if  this  precaution  is  not  taken  worm-infested 
soil  is  almost  sure  to  result. 

Of  late  complaints  come  from  all  over  the  country 
of  a  disease  which  seems  to  affect  nearly  all  plants. 
The  leaves  of  the  plant  attacked  by  it  show  light  green 
or  yellow  blotches,  and  these,  after  a  time,  become  dry 
and  brown,  as  the  tissue  of  the  leaf  is  eaten  away. 
Sometimes  the  effect  of  the  disease  is  most  noticeable 
on  the  edges  of  the  leaves,  which  become  brown  and 
dry,  and  crumble  away.  Generally  the  diseased  leaves 
turn  yellow,  or  rusty  looking,  and  fall  off.  The  growth 
of  the  plant  is  weak,  and  buds  blast.  If  Ivy  Leaf 
Geraniums  are  attacked,  their  leaves,  on  the  underside, 
look  as  if  they  had  been  gnawed  by  some  insect  and 
more  or  less  scarred  appearance  characterizes  the  entire 
foliage.  A  few  plants  are  attacked  at  first — generally 
those  of  low  vitality — but  the  disease  rapidly  spreads 
to  others,  until  the  entire  collection  looks  as  if  it  had 
been  scorched.  The  trouble  is  due  to  a  disease  of 
bacterial  or  fungous  nature.  It  spreads  from  spores 
which  settle  upon  healthy  leaves  and  establish  them- 
selves there,  and  soon  poison  the  blood  of  the  plant, 
which  is  helpless  in  its  efforts  to  rid  itself  of  them. 

The  only  remedy  seems  to  be  found  in  the  copper 
carbonates.  Bordeaux  mixture,  used  by  fruit  growers 


DISEASED      PLANTS  43 

in  spraying  their  trees  and  bushes,  will,  if  applied 
promptly,  counteract  the  disease,  but  the  use  of  it  on 
house  plants  is  objectionable,  because  it  leaves  a  dis- 
coloring sediment  on  the  foliage.  A  preparation  which 
will  not  discolor  the  leaves  is  now  on  the  market.  It 
depends  for  efficacy  upon  the  same  copper  carbonate 
that  is  the  basis  of  Bordeaux  mixture.  This  prepara- 
tion, which  can  be  bought  at  agricultural  stores,  and 
of  most  florists,  under  the  name  of  Copperdine,  comes 
in  the  form  of  a  paste  which  can  be  readily  thinned 
by  water  and  applied  as  a  spray  to  all  parts  of  the 
diseased  plants.  Or  they  can  be  dipped  in  it.  The 
persistent  use  of  this  fungicide  will  soon  overcome 
disease  conditions.  After  your  plants  become  healthy 
again,  use  it  frequently  to  prevent  a  recurrence  of  the 
disease. 


CHAPTER    XI 

WINTER      PRECAUTIONS 

At  the  North  we  must  take  especial  pains  to  guard 
against  the  results  of  sudden  "cold  snaps"  and  pene- 
trating winds  which  blow  the  cold  air  into  every 
crevice.  If  we  neglect  to  do  this,  we  may  wake  up 
some  morning  when  the  thermometer  is  away  down 
below  zero  and  find  our  flowers  frozen  beyond  the 
hope  of  recovery.  I  would  advise  having  an  extra  sash, 
or  "storm  window,"  placed  at  every  window  where 
plants  are  kept.  If  this  is  done,  and  it  is  snugly 
fitted  on  the  casing,  and  the  glass  is  well  puttied  in, 
there  will  be  no  need  of  moving  the  plants  at  night, 
and  it  will  be  needless  to  use  curtains  at  any  time  as 
a  protection  against  the  entrance  of  frost,  as  the  two 
thicknesses  of  glass  with  the  air  space  between  them 
constitute  a  most  effectual  barrier  against  the  cold. 
Care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  the  outside  sash  fits 
snugly  against  the  frame  of  the  window  all  around, 
also  that  the  sash  in  the  window  has  no  loose  joints. 
In  order  to  make  sure  of  a  snug  fit  it  is  well  to  use 
strips  of  thin  corner  molding  which  can  be  procured 
at  any  carpenter's,  or  the  weather  strips  for  sale  in 
most  towns  can  be  used.  These,  being  edged  with 
rubber,  can  be  made  to  fit  every  corner  tightly,  and 
every  crevice  can  be  effectually  closed  against  the 
entrance  of  wind  or  frost.  The  outside  sash  can  be 
put  on  with  screws.  If  the  screws  used  are  large 
and  long,  they  will  draw  it  down  against  the  wood 
of  the  frame  so  firmly  as  to  leave  no  crevice  for 
wind  to  get  through  unless  the  frame  is  warped  and 
uneven.  If  it  is  not  even  and  flat,  it  is  well  to 


WINTER     PRECAUTIONS  45 

tack  on  several  thicknesses  of  soft  cloth  where  the 
sash  will  come  in  contact  with  the  frame.  The  screws 
will  hold  the  sash  firmly  against  this  "packing,"  and 
a  tight  fit  will  be  the  result. 

Of  course  windows  treated  in  this  way  may  be 
said  to  be  air  tight,  comparatively,  and  those  who  have 
read  what  I  have  said  about  giving  plants  all  the  fresh 
air  possible  may  think  that  here  we  have  contradiction 
of  advice.  But  because  I  urge  making  the  window 
at  which  the  plants  are  kept  as  nearly  air  tight  as 
possible,  it  does  not  follow  that  we  are  not  to  give 
the  plants  in  them  fresh  air  and  plenty  of  it.  For 
some  years  past  I  have  used  a  little  device  which 
works  very  well.  A  tin  pipe  about  two  inches  across, 
with  two  bends  or  "elbows,"  admits  as  much  air  as  the 
plants  in  a  large  bay  window  require.  This  pipe  runs 
down  between  the  window  sash  and  the  storm  sash, 
and  the  lower  elbow  projects  through  a  hole  in  the 
bottom  bar  of  the  storm  sash,  and  is  open  to  the 
outside  air.  The  upper  elbow  comes  into  the  room 
through  a  hole  in  the  upper  part  of  the  window  sash. 
This  is  fitted  with  a  cap,  by  which  all  air  can  be  kept 
out,  if  desired.  When  removed,  there  is  a  rush  of  cold 
air  into  the  pipe  from  outside.  This  stream  of  air 
rises  in  the  pipe  and  is  discharged  into  the  room  near 
the  ceiling,  therefore  above  the  plants.  The  air  in  the 
room  is  of  course  much  warmer  near  the  ceiling  than 
elsewhere,  as  heated  air  always  rises,  and  the  cold  and 
warm  unite,  and  the  chill  is  taken  off  the  fresh  air 
before  it  reaches  the  plants  below.  In  order  to  avoid 
a  draft  from  the  room,  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  open- 
ing for  the  admission  of  cold  air  lower  than  the 
opening  for  the  discharge  of  it.  If  this  is  not  provided 
for  a  draft  may  be  created  which  will  take  the  warm 
air  out  of  your  room  instead  of  letting  in  fresh  air. 
In  putting  in  such  a  pipe,  be  sure  to  see  that  the 


46  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

holes  through  which  it  passes,  in  the  sashes,  are  made 
tight  with  putty. 

Often  there  will  be  cracks  and  crevices  along 
the  baseboards  of  the  room.  Be  sure  to  have  these 
closed.  Paste  strips  of  cloth  over  all  cracks  in  the 
plaster,  and  cover  with  paper  like  that  on  the  walls, 
and  the  patching  will  not  be  noticed.  If  there  should 
happen  to  be  an  opening  between  the  baseboards  and 
the  floor,  have  a  strip  of  the  corner  molding  spoken 
of  tacked  firmly  into  the  angle  of  the  corner.  It  is  the 
drafts  near  the  floor  which  have  to  be  most  closely 
guarded  against.  Quite  often  tender  plants  occupy- 
ing a  low  position  on  a  stand  are  chilled,  while  others 
equally  tender  on  a  higher  level  are  untouched.  It 
is  these  drafts  near  the  floor  which  persons  should 
guard  against,  also,  and  in  looking  out  for  the  welfare 
of  your  plants  you  are  doing  something  which  is 
conducive  to  your  own  health  and  a  double  benefit  is 
secured. 

Doors  opening  into  the  room  in  which  flowers 
are  kept,  especially  those  which  open  directly  outside, 
should  have  weather  strips  or  strips  of  listing  tacked 
about  them  in  such  a  manner  as  to  close  all  cracks 
through  which  the  cold  can  enter.  A  strong  wind  will 
blow  more  cold  air  into  a  room  in  moderate  weather 
than  would  be  likely  to  penetrate  into  it  still  nights 
when  the  thermometer  is  below  zero.  Therefore  be 
sure  to  fortify  against  the  admission  of  air  through 
these  inlets.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  take  a  day  for  doing 
this  work,  and  begin  at  one  corner  of  the  room  and 
go  over  it  thoroughly,  finishing  up  as  you  go  along. 
By  systematizing  the  work  in  this  way  you  are  sure  to 
have  it  all  done  and  well  done,  but  if  you  stop  a 
crack  here  and  there,  and  now  and  then,  you  will  be 
quite  sure  to  have  a  poor  job  of  it,  taken  as  a  whole. 

If  your   plants   should   freeze,   as   soon   as   you 


WINTER      PRECAUTIONS  47 

discover  what  has  been  done,  put  them  in  a  dark 
room,  or  the  cellar,  where  the  temperature  is  but 
little  above  freezing,  and  sprinkle,  or  rather  shower 
them,  with  cold  water.  Never  use  warm  if  you  want 
to  save  your  plants.  In  most  cases,  such  plants  as 
Geraniums,  Abutilons  and  others  of  similar  character 
can,  if  taken  in  time,  before  they  have  been  allowed 
to  thaw,  be  saved,  and  I  have  had  quite  tender  plants 
come  through  the  ordeal  with  comparatively  little 
injury.  The  frost  must  be  extracted  from  the  plant 
cells  gradually,  and  with  the  application  of  as  little 
heat  as  possible.  Keep  them  away  from  the  light 
and  warmth  for  two  or  three  days.  If  the  tops  wilt 
after  the  frost  has  been  extracted  you  may  feel  sure 
that  the  wilted  portion  cannot  be  saved  and  the  sooner 
it  is  cut  off  the  better.  Cut  below  where  it  seems 
to  be  affected  by  frost.  If  some  of  the  frosted  part 
is  left  on,  decay  often  sets  in,  which  soon  extends 
to  other  portions,  and  the  plant  is  pretty  sure  to 
die.  If  the  whole  top  seems  killed,  it  does  not  follow 
that  there  may  not  be  vitality  enough  left  in  the  root 
to  throw  up  new  shoots,  so  do  not  throw  them  away 
till  you  have  given  them  a  chance  to  make  a  fresh  start. 
Do  not  get  the  idea  from  what  I  have  said  above, 
that  at  the  North,  in  winter,  plants  can  be  kept  in  one 
house  out  of  fifty  without  keeping  fire  over  night, 
after  following  the  advice  given  to  the  minutest  par- 
ticular. It  will  be  necessary  to  see  that  fire  does  not 
go  out,  but  a  much  smaller  fire  will  be  required  in 
a  room  so  prepared  for  winter  than  in  a  room  which 
has  received  no  attention.  Do  not  neglect  making 
these  preparations  till  winter  conies,  and  with  such 
severity  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  do  the  work  outside 
well.  Do  it  while  it  can  be  done  carefully,  and  without 
discomfort,  and  it  will  be  done  much  more  thoroughly 
than  it  will  when  the  fingers  tingle  with  cold  and 
ererv  breath  is  a  puff  of  vapor  on  the  frosty  air. 


CHAPTER    XII 


RESTING       PLANTS 

Many  persons  seem  to  think  that  a  plant  ought  to 
keep  on  growing  all  through  the  year.  They  give 
water,  stimulants,  and  everything  calculated  to 
encourage  or  excite  growth  just  the  same  at  one 
season  of  the  year  as  at  another.  As  a  natural  result 
they  have  feeble  plants,  for  no  plant  can  keep  up  a 
healthy  growth  all  the  year  round.  It  must  have  its 
period  of  rest.  If  a  person  goes  without  sleep  he  soon 
becomes  exhausted.  A  plant  requires  something  which 
corresponds  to  sleep.  In  growing  plants  in  the  house 
we  must  aim  to  imitate  the  processes  of  nature  as 
far  as  possible,  and  if  you  look  about  you,  you  find 
that  outdoor  plants  grow  for  a  season  and  rest  for  a 
season.  Your  house  plants  must  be  treated  in  this 
way  to  secure  best  results.  Don't  expect  them  to  give 
you  flowers  the  year  round.  They  will  be  so  exhausted 
by  one  season  of  flowering  that  they  must  be  given 
time  to  recuperate  in.  Without  this  resting  spell  they 
will  soon  be  robbed  of  vitality,  and  without  vigor  and 
strength  a  plant  is  comparatively  worthless. 

When  a  plant  ceases  to  bloom,  and  shows  an 
inclination  to  stop  growing  by  ripening  its  leaves, 
encourage  it  to  rest  by  withholding  water  in  a  great 
degree,  and  by  giving  it  a  less  amount  of  light  and 
heat  than  it  has  been  having,  and  be  sure  that  it  gets 
nothing  of  a  stimulating  nature.  Light,  warmth  and 
water  are  all  excitants  of  plant  growth,  and  by  with- 
holding them  we  make  it  easy  for  the  plant  to  stand 
still.  If  you  have  a  cellar  that  is  quite  dark,  and  the 
temperature  in  it  is  not  very  much  above  freezing  in 


RESTING      PLANTS  49 

the  coldest  weather,  it  is  just  the  place  in  which  to  put 
such  plants  as  show  a  desire  to  rest. 

The  absence  of  light,  heat  and  moisture  at  the 
roots  enables  the  plant  to  become  dormant  and  remain 
so  till  it  is  brought  up  after  its  resting  spell.  It  is 
doing  what  the  plants  outside  are  doing,  taking  its 
annual  sleep.  Assist  it  to  make  this  rest  as  complete 
as  possible.  Give  only  enough  water  to  plants  in  the 
cellar  to  prevent  the  soil  from  becoming  dry.  The  cool 
temperature,  absence  of  light,  and  dormant  condition 
of  the  plant  makes  but  little  water  necessary,  and  it 
will  not  be  advisable  to  give  any  in  many  instances, 
after  putting  the  plants  in  the  cellar,  though  most  will 
require  it  in  small  quantities.  This  must  be  decided 
by  examination.  If  hard  wooded,  shrubby  plants  drop 
their  leaves  while  taking  their  rest,  it  is  nothing  that 
need  give  you  alarm.  The  shrubs  in  your  garden  drop 
theirs  also,  but  when  they  begin  to  grow  next  season 
they  soon  make  up  for  what  they  have  lost.  Your 
house  plants  will  make  up  for  lost  foliage  when  you 
bring  them  up  in  spring  and  give  them  a  chance  to 
grow.  If  you  have  no  cellar  in  which  to  put  your 
plants,  you  cannot  give  them  that  complete  rest  which 
they  require,  but  by  withholding  water  and  stimulants, 
you  can  bring  them  to  a  standstill  as  far  as  growth 
is  concerned,  which  will  be  a  partial  rest,  and  which 
will  be  much  better  than  none  at  all. 


CHAPTER    XIII 


MISCELLANEOUS       HINTS 

Do  not  attempt  to  keep  plants  which  do  not  bloom 
in  winter  in  the  sitting  room  windows.  Put  them 
away  in  the  cellar  to  rest,  and  give  the  room  they  would 
take  up  in  the  window  to  something  from  which  you 
can  expect  flowers.  Such  plants  as  Hydrangea,  Ole- 
ander, summer-flowering  Fuchsias,  and  others  of  sim- 
ilar character,  are  better  off  in  the  cellar  than  in 
rooms,  exposed  to  heat  and  light.  There  they  can  be 
kept  in  a  dormant  condition,  which  is  the  natural  one 
for  them,  in  winter.  Give  them  no  water,  while  stored 
there,  unless  the  soil  is  nearly  dry.  Then  give  just 
enough  to  make  it  slightly  moist.  Put  them  there  in 
November,  and  leave  them  there  until  March  or  April. 
Keep  them  as  cool  as  possible  without  subjecting  them 
to  frost,  and  do  not  be  alarmed  if  they  drop  their 
foliage. 

I  am  often  asked  about  the  relative  merits  of 
porous  and  glazed  pots.  In  the  greenhouse  I  would 
use  nothing  but  porous  pots.  In  a  very  warm  sitting 
room,  where  the  air  is  dry,  glazed  pots  are  often 
better  than  porous  ones,  because  evaporation  takes 
place  more  slowly,  as  the  air  does  not  have  a  chance 
to  get  at  the  soil  through  the  sides  of  the  pot,  as  it 
does  when  unglazed  pots  are  used.  Tin  cans  are  often 
used.  I  have  seen  good  plants  growing1  in  them 
when  holes  were  punched  through  their  bottoms,  to 
allow  surplus  water  to  run  off,  but  unless  this  is  done 
it  is  almost  impossible  to  keep  plants  healthy  in  them, 
because  the  water  is  confined  in  the  soil  until  it  sours, 
and  diseased  roots  result, 


MISCELLANEOUS    HINTS  51 

Other  frequent  questions  are  about  using  tea  and 
coffee  dregs  on  the  soil  about  pot  plants.  Never  do 
it.  The  only  benefit  to  be  derived  is  that  which  comes 
from  it  as  a  mulch,  and  if  you  keep  your  plants  properly 
watered  no  mulching  will  be  required.  As  the  dregs 
'decay,  worms  will  breed  in  them,  and  in  this  way  the 
health  of  your  plants  is  endangered.  If  you  want  a 
fertilizer,  use  one  of  the  several  kinds  recommended 
in  a  former  chapter. 

Never  throw  away  cuttings.  If  you  don't  have 
any  use  for  them,  some  neighbor  will  be  glad  to 
get  them.  Stick  them  down  in  the  pot  beside  the  old 
plant,  and  most  of  them  will  root,  and  by  and  by  you 
can  get  rid  of  them. 

If  you  want  a  bed  of  Geraniums  on  the  lawn  or 
in  the  front  yard  next  season,  start  all  the  cuttings  you 
can  during  winter.  You  can  easily  secure  enough 
from  half  a  dozen  plants  to  fill  a  bed  six  feet  square, 
and  you  can  do  this  without  spoiling  your  plants,  too. 
In  removing  new  branches  from  plants  which  have 
already  developed  as  many  as  are  required  to  make 
them  symmetrical  and  compact,  you  are  benefiting  them 
instead  of  injuring  them. 

When  you  see  that  a  plant  requires  attention 
of  any  kind,  don't  neglect  it,  but  give  the  required 
attention  promptly.  By  attending  to  the  wants  of  your 
plants  in  season  you  can  keep  them  in  good  condition, 
but  neglected  plants  always  suffer  and  are  seldom  or 
never  satisfactory  in  appearance.  It  pays  to  take 
proper  care  of  them.  Indeed,  if  you  are  not  able  or 
willing  to  give  plants  the  care  they  need,  don't 
have  any. 

If  possible,  have  a  bay  window  so  arranged  that 
it  can  be  shut  off  from  the  room  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  glazed  doors.  (Fig  8.)  If  this  is  done, 
you  can  shower  your  plants  and  close  the  doors,  and 


52  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

keep  the  air  about  them  moist  all  day.  The  doors 
can  be  shut  when  sweeping  is  going  on,  thus  keeping 
all  dust  from  them.  The  expense  will  be  slight,  and 
the  benefit  to  the  plants  will  be  great. 


FIG   8 — BAY    WINDOW    WITH    GLAZED    DOORS 

If  you  want  to  economize  space  about  a  window, 
and  grow  as  many  plants  as  possible  there,  get  some 
of  the  swinging  iron  brackets  (Fig  9)  for  sale  by 
most  dealers  in  seeds.  These  can  be  fastened  to  the 
window  frame  with  screws.  You  can  get  them  with 
from  one  to  five  places  for  pots.  By  using  two  of 
these  on  each  side  of  a  window,  plants  can  be  arranged 


MISCELLANEOUS      HINTS 


53 


in  such  a  manner  as  to  frame  it  in  with  foliage  and 
flowers.  Upright  growers  can  be  used  near  the  wall, 
and  drooping  ones  in  front.  It  is  an  easy  matter  to 
group  plants  on  these  brackets  more  effectively  than 
on  any  other  support.  On  cold  nights  it  will  not  be 
necessary  to  move  the  pots  from  the  brackets,  as  the 


FIG    Q — SWINGING    IRON    BRACKETS    AND    WINDOW    SHELF 

arms  which  support  the  pots  are  made  to  turn  in 
the  socket  attached  to  the  window  frame,  thus  enabling 
you  to  swing  the  plants  close  to  the  glass  or  away 
from  it,  at  your  pleasure. 

Never  throw  away  a  broken  pot.     Pick  up  the 
pieces  and  put  them  where  you  can  get  them  readily 


54  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

when  you  want  some  material  for  drainage.  Many 
persons  neglect  to  provide  drainage  simply  because 
they  have  nothing  at  hand  just  when  it  is  wanted.  Be 
prepared  for  such  emergencies. 

Keep  all  plants  requiring  support  tied  up  neatly 
and  firmly.  If  you  neglect  this,  quite  likely  you  will 
regret  it,  for  sometime  when  you  are  at  work  among 
them  the  unsupported  plant  will  get  a  twist  or  turn  by 
which  it  will  be  seriously  injured.  Then  you  will  wish 
you  had  attended  to  the  poor  plant  at  the  time  you 
discovered  its  need  of  attention. 

If  your  window  is  crowded  with  plants  thin  them 
out.  Keep  only  as  many  as  you  can  accommodate 
without  crowding.  If  you  have  too  many  all  individ- 
uality is  destroyed;  you  can  never  expect  satisfactory 
development  where  there  is  lack  of  room.  Where 
plants  have  to  elbow  each  other  in  their  efforts  to 
get  to  the  light  some  of  the  less  aggressive  ones 
must  remain  in  the  background,  and  suffer  in  conse- 
quence. If  you  are  not  willing  to  dispense  with  any, 
change  them  about  every  week,  so  that  all  may  have 
a  chance  at  the  light.  Place  the  taller  ones  at  the 
sides  of  the  window,  and  farthest  away  from  the 
glass,  as  they  can  get  light  over  the  heads  of  the 
lower  growers. 

Never  arrange  the  plants  in  your  window  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  make  an  effective  display  from  the 
outside  only.  You  do  not  grow  plants,  I  hope,  to 
please  the  passer-by,  but  yourself  and  the  members 
of  your  family.  Arrange  them  in  such  a  way  as  to 
make  the  window  a  beautiful  sight  when  looked  at 
from  the  room.  Act  on  the  principle  of  making  home 
beautiful  to  those  who  are  in  it  first  of  all.  If  some 
of  its  beauty  overflows  and  gladdens  the  eyes  of  those 
who  are  not  members  of  the  household,  well  and 
good,  But  let  it  be  "home  first,  the  world  afterward," 


CHAPTER     XIV 


PLANTS     ADAPTED     TO     WINDOW     CULTURE 

The  list  of  plants  adapted  to  cultivation  in  the 
window  of  the  living  room  is  not  as  large  as  one 
would  suppose,  after  going  through  a  greenhouse  and 
seeing  the  variety  usually  grown  there.  Many  plants 
flourish  there  which  would  refuse  to  grow  in  the  con- 
ditions which  ordinarily  prevail  in  our  living  rooms, 
where  they  have  dust,  dry  air  and  irregular  tempera- 
ture to  contend  with. 

Below  I  give  a  list  of  such  flowering  plants  as 
can  be  grown  in  most  dwellings,  with  fair  chances  of 
success,  if  proper  care  is  given  them.  By  the  term 
"proper  care,"  is  meant  the  application  of  the  advice 
contained  in  the  preceding  pages  of  this  book  concern- 
ing the  treatment  which  pot  plants  should  receive  at 
the  hands  of  their  owners. 

Agapanthus.  •*-*  Carnation. 

Ageratum.  Calla. 

Amaryllis.  *  Chinese  Primrose. 

Azalea.  Cactus. 

Achania.  Cyclamen. 

Abutilon.  Daphne. 

Begonia.  Eupatorium. 

Baby  Primrose.  Fuchsia. 
Bulbs,  for  winter  flowering.  Genista. 

Bouvardia.  Geranium. 

Browallia.  Gloxinia. 

Chrysanthemum.  Hydrangea. 

Calceolaria.  Hibiscus. 

Cineraria,  Heliotrope. 


56  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

Impatiens  Sultani.     (Zanzibar  Balsam.) 

Lantana.  Pyrethrum. 

Linum  trigynum.  Primula  obconica. 

Mahernia.  Rhynchospermum. 

Olea.  Rose. 

Oleander.  Stevia. 

Pelargonium.  Salvia. 

Plumbago.  Valotta 
Petunia. 

The  following-  list  includes  the  best  basket  plants 
for  general  use : 

Othonna.  Linaria. 

Oxalis.  Vinca. 

Saxifraga.  Lobelia. 

Tradescantia.  Trailing  Lantana. 
Moneywort. 

The    following   list   includes   the   best   vines    for 
window  use: 

English  Ivy.  Hoya. 

Senecio,  or  German  Ivy.  Jasmine. 

Madeira  Vine.  Asparagus  Sprengeri. 

Passion  Flower.  Thunbergia. 

The  following  are  among  the  best  plants  grown 
for  beauty  of  foliage : 

Palm.  Dracaena. 

Fern.  Farfugium. 

Ficus.  Asparagus  tenuissimus. 

Aralia.  Asparagus  plumosus. 

Aspidistra.  Variegated  Geraniums. 

Araucaria.  Pandanus. 

Begonia.  Phormium  tenax. 

It  is  not  to  be  understood  by  the  reader  that  the 
lists  given  above  include  all  the  plants  that  can  be 


PLANTS      ADAPTED      TO      WINDOW      CULTURE         57 

grown  in  the  living  room.  But  they  include  all  the 
more  desirable  ones — those  which  the  amateur  will  find 
it  safest  to  begin  with — and  are  the  standbys  in  this 
class  of  plants.  I  would  advise  the  amateur  to  confine 
his  experiments  to  them  until  he  can  grow  them  well. 
Then  he  will  have  gained  a  knowledge  of  the  general 
principles  of  floriculture  which  will  warrant  him  in 
undertaking  the  culture  of  plants  more  difficult  to 
manage. 


CHAPTER    XV 

THE      PLUMBAGO,      OLEANDER,       AGAPANTHUS,      AGERA- 
TUM,       STEVIA       AND       EUPATORIUM 

The    Plumbago 

Plumbago  Capensis  is  one  of  the  best  house  plants 
I  have  ever  grown.  It  is  a  somewhat  rampant  grower, 
but  can  be  kept  within  bounds  by  judicious  pruning. 
It  blooms  ten  months  out  of  twelve,  and  very  freely, 
and  on  this  account  it  is  sure  to  become  a  favorite 
wheresoever  introduced.  Its  flowers  are  shaped  like 
those  of  Phlox  Drummondi.  They  are  borne  in  loose 
clusters,  and  are  of  a  delicate  shade  of  lavender-blue — 
a  very  rare  color  among  flowers.  Indeed,  I  know  of 
but  one  other  flower  of  similar  color — the  Ageratum. 
The  flowers  of  the  Plumbago  are  always  produced 
on  new  growth,  therefore  in  order  to  keep  it  in 
blooming  condition  it  must  be  kept  growing.  Cut  it 
back  every  two  or  three  months,  and  cut  it  back  well, 
and  you  will  never  lack  for  plenty  of  flowering  surface 
if  you  give  manure  water  once  a  week  to  induce 
development.  On  account  of  its  peculiar  color,  it  is 
very  useful  for  bouquet  work.  It  combines  well  and 
harmonizes  with  almost  all  other  colors,  and  affords 
a  most  delightful  contrast  with  yellow  flowers. 

The     Oleander 

This  old  favorite  holds  its  own  against  all  new- 
comers, and  it  is  well  that  it  does  so,  for  it  has  many 
merits  that  many  of  the  new  ones  lack.  As  a  large 
plant  for  the  center  of  a  bay  window,  or  for  use  on 


PLUMBAGO,   OLEANDER,   AGAPANTHUS  5Q 

the  veranda  or  porch  in  summer,  it  is  unexcelled. '  Its 
great  clusters  of  rosy-crimson  flowers  are  quite  equal 
to  bunches  of  Roses  in  effect,  and  a  well-grown  plant 
will  be  literally  covered  with  blossoms  through  half 
the  summer.  Give  it  a  rich  soil  made  up  of  loam, 
sand  and  old  manure ;  repot  each  spring.  Keep  it 
in  good  shape  by  cutting  back  any  branches  which 
show  a  tendency  to  outgrow  others.  Watch  the  stalk 
and  foliage,  and  if  you  notice  a  scale  on  either  take 
an  old  tooth  brush  and  apply  water  containing  lemon 
or  fir-tree  oil,  as  Advised  in  the  chapter  on  insecticides. 
Mealy  bug  often  attacks  this  plant,  but  it  can  be 
routed  by  washes  containing  one  or  the  other  of  the 
above  mentioned  oils. 

This  plant  can  be  made  to  assume  a  very  sym- 
metrical form  by  careful  pruning.  If  you  have  an 
old  plant  which  has  become  too  large  for  the  window, 
don't  throw  it  away,  but  put  it  in  the  cellar  ovec 
winter  and  plant  it  out  on  the  lawn  in  summer,  where 
it  will  bloom  beautifully.  Indeed,  no  shrub  can  exceed 
it  in  brilliant  show.  In  fall  the  plant  can  be  taken 
up,  its  roots  crowded  into  an  old  box  or  tub,  and  stored 
away  in  the  cellar  for  use  another  year.  It  is  well 
to  winter  your  Oleanders  in  the  cellar,  because  they 
are  not  winter  bloomers,  strictly  speaking,  though  they 
often  bloom  at  that  time  of  the  year,  and  they  get 
a  chance  to  rest  while  in  the  dark.  There  are  several 
varieties,  but  the  old  rose-colored  one  is  the  best  of  all. 

The    Agapanthus 

This  is  one  of  the  best  summer-blooming  plants 
we  have.  Its  merits,  however,  seem  to  be  but  little 
known,  for  we  do  not  often  see  it  in  even  quite  large 
collections.  It  is  often  called  a  tuberous  plant,  but 
such  is  not  the  case.  It  has  thick,  fleshy  roots  with 
a  semi-tuberous  look  about  them.  It  throws  up  a 


6O  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

great  profusion  of  green  leaves,  closely  resembling 
those  of  the  Amaryllis.  It  is  what  is  called  an  ever- 
green, and  it  might  well  be  called  an  ever-grower,  for 
it  does  not  seem  to  care  for  or  require  rest.  In  June 
or  July  it  throws  up  a  flower  stalk  to  the  hight  of 
three  or  four  feet.  Its  flowers  are  small,  but  being 
borne  in  a  large  cluster,  they  are  very  effective,  as 


FIG    IO— CLUSTER    OF    AGAPANTHUS    FLOWERS 

seen  in  Fig  10.  They  are  shaped  like  a  Lily,  and 
each  one  is  held  out  from  the  center  of  the  cluster 
by  a  slender  stem.  In  color  they  are  pale  blue,  striped 
with  white.  This  plant  requires  very  little  care.  It 
likes  a  soil  rather  heavy  with  loam,  plenty  of  water, 
and  not  a  great  deal  of  heat  or  sunshine.  An  old 
plant  will  require  a  large  tub  or  box  to  accommodate 


AGAPANTHUS,     AGERATUM  6l 

its  thick  and  spreading  roots,  which  will  persist  in 
heaving  themselves  above  the  soil,  giving  one  the 
impression  that  a  larger  pot  is  needed  when  such  is 
not  the  case.  Apply  fertilizer  liberally  as  the  flower- 
ing season  approaches. 

The    Ageratum 

This  plant  is  an  excellent  one  for  house  culture. 
It  is  a  free  and  constant  bloomer,  and  gives  a  great 
profusion  of  flowers  in  midwinter  when  so  few  other 
flowers  are  seen.  It  is  of  very  easy  culture.  It 
likes  a  loam  made  light  with  sand,  with  a  sprinkling 
of  old  manure.  If  the  soil  in  which  it  is  grown  is 
too  rich  it  will  make  a  great  growth  of  branch,  with 
but  few  flowers.  In  color  it  is  a  soft  shade  of  lavender. 
It  resembles  the  old  flower  called  Ladies'  Paint  Brush 
in  shape,  being  made  up  of  many  fringe-like  petals. 
It  produces  its  blossoms  in  clusters,  and  is  very  useful 
for  cutting  for  bouquets.  For  corsage  work  or  button- 
hole bouquets  it  is  almost  indispensable,  because  of 
the  rarity  of  flowers  having  its  peculiar  color.  A  spray 
of  it  used  with  a  Marechal  Niel  Rose  makes  a  lovely 
combination.  It  works  in  well  with  white.  In  fact, 
it  is  one  of  those  flowers  which  can  be  used  harmo- 
niously and  effectively  with  almost  any  other  flower. 
It  is  subject  to  attacks  of  the  red  spider,  but  this 
pest  can  be  kept  from  getting  established  on  it  if  care 
is  taken  to  dip  the  plants  in  water  once  a  day.  Do 
not  shake  them  dry  after  dipping,  but  allow  them  to 
stand  with  the  moisture  remaining  on  the  leaves. 
Cutting  from  the  plant  increases  its  flowering  propen- 
sities, as  it  will  put  forth  new  branches,  and  each 
branch  will  produce  flowers. 


62  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

The    Sterna 

The  Stevia  is  not  a  new  plant,  by  any  means, 
but  it  is  one  of  those  old  plants  which  deserve 
attention  from  all  who  love  really  beautiful  flowers.  It 
is  not  a  showy  plant,  because  of  its  color,  which  is 
white.  It  is  a  modest  flower,  and  seldom  strikes 
attention  when  growing,  but  when  used  in  bouquets  it 
is  always  greatly  admired.  Its  individual  blossoms 
are  small.  They  are  borne  in  clusters,  and  have  a 
feathery  appearance.  It  is  most  effective  when  used 
among  other  plants  by  way  of  contrast.  When  seen 
among  pink  Geraniums  it  presents  a  most  charming 
appearance.  It  is  charming,  also,  when  grown  among 
Fuchsias  of  the  pink  and  white  variety.  It  is  a  most 
profuse  bloomer,  and  gives  its  greatest  crop  along 
through  November  and  December,  when  we  have  but 
few  other  flowers  in  bloom. 

The    Eupatorium 

This  flower  is  very  much  like  the  Stevia  in  form 
and  color,  but  it  has  a  larger  and  more  spreading 
cluster,  and  a  better  habit.  It  has  slender  branches, 
which  are  thrown  out  well  on  all  sides.  These  droop, 
when  in  bloom,  and  on  this  account  the  plant  is  well 
adapted  for  use  on  brackets.  It  is  valuable  for  bouquet 
work.  It  is  of  the  easiest  culture,  and  every  collection 
ought  to  include  at  least  one  plant  of  it.  E.  riparium 
is  the  best  species. 


CHAPTER     XVI 

PRIMULAS 

Primula    obconica 

This  is  a  flower  that  anybody  can  grow  who  will 
give  it  a  fine,  spongy  soil  and  a  good  deal  of  water. 
It  has  hundreds  of  fine  roots  which  take  up  moisture 
rapidly,  and  a  moderate  supply  of  water  will  be  found 
quite  insufficient  to  meet  its  requirements.  It  is  a 
most  profuse  and  persistent  bloomer.  It  blooms  most, 
however,  in  winter.  Its  flowers  are  lilac,  shading  into 
white,  or  suffused  with  a  pearly  pink.  They  are  about 
the  size  of  a  Phlox  Drummondi  blossom,  and  similarly 
shaped.  They  are  produced  in  loose  clusters,  in  a 
sort  of  irregular  spike,  well  above  the  foliage.  They 
have  such  a  dainty,  modest  air  about  them — quite  like 
some  of  our  dainty  wild  flowers  of  spring — that  they 
are  prime  favorites  with  all  who  love  flowers  for 
individual  beauty.  They  also  have  a  delicate  fragrance 
which  adds  to  their  attractiveness.  Plants  for  winter 
flowering  can  be  grown  from  seed  sown  in  spring,  or 
by  division  of  the  roots  of  old  plants.  The  only  insect 
I  have  ever  found  on  this  plant  is  the  mealy  bug.  It 
can  be  routed  by  the  use  of  the  soap  insecticide  recom- 
mended in  a  former  chapter. 

The     Chinese    Primrose 

This  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of  old  winter 
blooming  plants.  For  years  it  has  been  a  "standby" 
for  the  window  garden.  It  is  one  of  those  plants 
which  can  be  depended  on  to  give  a  steady  succession 


64 


HOME      FLORICULTURE 


of  flowers  all  through  the  winter  season,  if  properly 
treated.  It  comes  in  various  shades  of  red,  mauve 
and  pure  white.  There  are  single  and  double  varieties. 
The  doubles  are  finest,  but  the  single  sorts  bloom 
more  freely.  On  account  of  their  rather  short  stalks, 
the  flowers  are  not  very  useful  for  cutting,  but  they 


FIG    II — SINGLE    CHINESE    PRIMROSE 

make  a  most  delightful  show  in  the  window,  and  no 
collection  is  what  it  ought  to  be  unless  it  includes  at: 
least  one  double  white  and  one  each  of  the  white 
and  red  single  kinds.  The  flowers  are  about  the  size 
of  a  quarter  of  a  dollar.  Some  have  a  petal  with  a 


PRIMULAS  65 

smooth  edge,  while  others  are  finely  fringed.  Most 
varieties  have  a  yellow  or  greenish-yellow  eye.  A 
typical  specimen  of  a  single  Chinese  Primrose  is  seen 
in  I;ig  n. 

This  plant  is  quite  likely  to  rot  just  below  the 
crown  if  not  potted  in  such  a  manner  that  the  water 
runs  away  from  the  center  of  the  pot.  Therefore  see 
that  the  soil  slopes  away  from  the  plant  to  the  edge 
of  the  pot,  if  you  would  keep  your  plants  healthy.  If 
decay  sets  in  you  might  as  well  throw  the  plant  away, 
for  it  seems  impossible  to  make  it  take  on  a  healthy 
tone  again,  though  you  repot  it  carefully,  prune  away 
all  diseased  portions,  and  give  it  the  best  possible  care. 
Keep  your  plants  from  getting  diseased,  if  you  can, 
but  don't  spend  much  time  on  trying  to  cure  them  after 
disease  sets  in. 

I  would  not  advise  trying  to  take  a  plant  through 
a  second  season.  One  season  of  flowering  seems  to 
exhaust  its  vitality  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is  not  able 
to  produce  many  flowers  a  second  winter,  and  what 
few  it  gives  will  be  inferior.  This  plant  likes  a  some- 
what cool  place,  but  must  not  be  allowed  to  get  chilled. 
It  does  not  care  very  much  for  direct  sunshine,  but 
must  have  a  good  light,  nevertheless.  It  is  probably 
best  adapted  to  culture  in  a  window  with  eastern 
exposure. 

Young  plants  can  be  bought  each  spring,  and 
grown  on  for  winter  flowering  through  the  summer, 
or  they  can  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  March.  If 
you  buy  plants — which  is  the  best  way — keep  them  in 
a  shady,  sheltered  place  over  summer,  repotting  as 
needed,  and  being  careful  to  remember  what  has  been 
said  about  potting  in  such  a  manner  as  to  have  the 
water  run  away  from  the  crown  of  the  plant. 


66  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

The    Baby     Primrose 

This  is  a  variety  of  Primula  obconica,  of  compara- 
tively recent  introduction.  Its  flowers  are  very  small, 
individually — hence  its  name — but  there  are  so  many 
of  them,  and  they  are  produced  so  constantly,  that  we 
have  few  more  effective  plants  for  winter  use.  They 
range  in  color  from  nearly  white  to  rosy  lilac.  They 
require  the  same  treatment  as  P.  obconica,  and  should 
be  grown  from  seed,  or  by  division  of  the  old  roots. 
Plants  intended  for  next  winter's  use  should  be  started 
in  spring. 


CHAPTER     XVII 

THE       MAHERNIA,       BROWALLIA,       PYRETHRUM,       IMPA- 
TIENS,      SULTANI      AND      LANTANA 

The     Mahernia 

The  Mahernia — Mahernia  odorata  of  the  catalogs, 
and  popularly  known  as  Honey  Bell — is  a  most  charm- 
ing little  plant  for  growing  on  a  bracket  where  its 
slender  branches  can  be  allowed  to  droop  over  the  pot 
and  dispose  of  themselves  in  their  own  graceful 
fashion.  It  has  fine  and  delicate  foliage,  which  gives  it 
an  attractive  appearance  when  there  are  no  flowers  on 
the  plant.  Its  flowers  are  small,  light  yellow  in  colcr, 
and  shaped  like  a  bell.  They  are  deliciously  fragrant. 
A  few  of  them  will  fill  a  room  with  pleasant  odor  at 
night.  It  is  not  a  showy  plant,  but  it  does  not  follow 
that  it  is  lacking  in  beauty,  or  is  not  desirable.  It 
likes  a  light,  rich  soil,  kept  moderately  moist,  with 
water  on  its  foliage  daily.  It  flourishes  in  a  somewhat 
shady  window. 

Browallia 

A  comparatively  new  flower,  evolved  from  one 
that  enjoyed  considerable  popularity  years  ago.  The 
new  form,  however,  is  much  superior  to  the  old  one, 
being  larger,  more  floriferous,  and  richer  in  color.  It 
is  a  deep,  ultramarine  blue — the  only  flower  of  that 
color  among  our  winter  blooming  plants,  so  far  as  my 
knowledge  goes.  Small  plants,  from  summer  seed- 
lings, will  be  almost  completely  covered  with  flowers 
during  the  entire  winter.  Because  of  its  shape  it  is 
sometimes  called  the  Giant  Violet,  It  is  not  even 


OS  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

remotely  related  to  the  Violet  family,  however.  This 
is  a  plant  the  amateur  will  do  well  to  add  to  her 
collection.  It  requires  only  the  most  ordinary  attention 
— the  same  soil  you  would  give  a  Geranium,  and 
about  the  same  amount  of  water,  and  a  not  too  sunny 
place. 

The    Pyre  thrum 

Every  old  garden  used  to  have  its  clump  of 
Feverfew.  Nowadays  we  know  it  as  Pyrethrum,  and 
grow  it  as  a  house  plant.  It  is  really  a  most  desirable 
plant  for  the  windows,  because  it  blooms  freely  in 
winter,  and  gives  a  steady  supply  of  flowers  through 
half  the  year.  The  best  variety  is  Little  Gem.  It  is  a 
somewhat  dwarf  grower,  but  its  flowers  are  quite  as 
large  as  those  of  the  stronger-growing  variety,  and 
are  produced  quite  as  freely.  They  are  of  a  clear  white, 
very  double,  and  about  as  large  as  a  quarter  of  a 
dollar.  They  closely  resemble  some  of  the  white 
Anemone-flowered  Chrysanthemums.  They  are  very 
fine  for  use  in  small  bouquets.  The  foliage  is  finely 
cut,  like  that  of  some  kinds  of  fern,  and  has  a  strong, 
spicy  odor  when  handled.  The  red  spider  likes  to  work 
among  its  leaves,  and  will  soon  spoil  a  plant  if  allowed 
to  go  on  unchecked.  Syringe  it  daily  to  keep  him  in 
check.  This  is  one  of  the  plants  which  will  stand 
quite  a  little  frost  without  injury.  On  this  account 
it  is  especially  adapted  to  cool  rooms.  In  a  very  warm 
room  its  buds  often  blast.  It  grows  well  in  ordinary 
soil.  Cutting  off  its  flowers  induces  the  formation 
of  new  branches,  and  these  new  branches  always  bear 
the  flowers.  Therefore,  do  not  hesitate  to  cut  from 
it  freely,  for  cutting  benefits  it. 

Impatiens    Sultani     (Zanzibar    Balsam) 

This  is  a  comparatively  new  flower  among  us.  It 
is  not  as  desirable  as  many  others,  perhaps,  and  yet 


PYRETHRUM,     IMPATIENS,    LANTANA  69 

it  is  one  that  you  will  not  like  to  be  without,  after 
having  once  grown  it.  It  is  a  most  cheerful  looking 
little  plant,  being  almost  always  covered  with  its  bright 
magenta-colored  blossoms,  which  contrast  charmingly 
with  the  rich,  smooth,  shining  foliage.  Its  stalks  have 
an  almost  transparent  look  when  you  hold  them 
between  the  eye  and  the  sun.  It  is  not  particular  about 
having  much  sunshine ;  indeed,  I  am  inclined  to  think 
it  blooms  best  in  a  shaded  place.  It  grows  to  be  about 
a  foot  high,  and  perhaps  a  foot  and  a  half  across, 
branching  freely.  Its  flowers  are  shaped  very  much 
like  the  old  single  Balsam  or  Lady  Slipper,  but  are 
considerably  smaller,  and  do  not  hug  the  stalk  or  hide 
among  the  foliage  as  those  flowers  used  to.  It  likes 
a  light,  open  soil  with  plenty  of  moisture  at  the  roots, 
and  a  daily  bath  for  its  foliage.  Unless  the  latter 
is  given  the  red  spider  injures  it.  When  a  plant  begins 
to  be  exhausted  you  will  find  it  dropping  apart  at  its 
joints.  It  seeds  freely,  and  you  will  generally  find 
plenty  of  young  seedlings  coming  up  about  the  old 
plant.  It  comes  into  bloom  in  two  or  three  months 
from  the  seed. 

The     Lantana 

This  old  plant  has  held  its  own  against  all  new- 
comers, and  is  as  popular  to-day  as  it  was  years  ago. 
And  its  popularity  as  a.  plant  for  sitting  room  culture 
is  well  deserved.  It  will  flourish  where  nothing  else 
but  a  Geranium  would  look  cheerful,  and  it  will  stand 
all  kinds  of  abuse  and  neglect.  But,  because  it  will 
do  this,  I  would  not  advise  abusing  or  neglecting  it. 
Give  it  good  care  and  let  it  do  its  best.  It  is  not  at 
all  particular  about  the  soil  it  gets  to  grow  in,  if  it 
is  only  moderately  rich.  It  likes  plenty  of  sunshine, 
and  a  moderate  amount  of  water.  It  will  stand  any 
amount  of  pinching  and  pruning,  and  can  be  made 


7O  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

to  grow  as  a  tree  or  a  shrub.  It  branches  very  freely, 
and  produces  a  cluster  of  flowers  at  nearly  every  leaf. 
The  .flowers  are  mostly  white  and  yellow,  some  varie- 
ties changing  from  yellow  to  pink  after  the  first  day 
or  two.  As  the  flowers  on  the  outside  of  the  cluster 
open  first,  they,  of  course,  change  color  sooner  than 
those  in  the  center,  and  on  this  account  you  will  find 
a  cluster  made  up  of  pink,  yellow  and  nearly  white 
blossoms,  thus  giving  the  plant  a  peculiar  appearance. 
The  pure  white  varieties  with  a  lemon  eye  are  most 
desirable.  The  flowers  have  a  peculiar  fragrance, 
which  is  pleasing  to  many,  and  disagreeable  to  some. 
The  odor  of  the  foliage  is  not  particularly  agreeable. 
Old  plants  can  be  set  out  in  the  garden  in  summer, 
after  having  done  a  good  winter's  work  in  the  window, 
and  there  they  will  bloom  with  such  profusion  as 
to  almost  cover  themselves  with  flowers  through  the 
entire  season.  Cuttings  start  easily  if  taken  from 
half-ripened  wood,  and  you  can  strike  dozens  of  them 
in  March,  for  use  in  beds  out  of  doors  in  summer, 
from  every  old  plant  in  the  window. 


CHAPTER    XVIII 

THE     PETUNIA,     RHYNCHOSPERMUM,     HELIOTROPE     AND 
OXALIS 

The    Petunia 

I  find  the  double  Petunia  a  very  poor  plant  for 
winter  culture.  It  does  well  enough  in  summer,  but 
it  steadily  refuses  to  give  me  any  good  flowers  after 
November.  But  I  have  no  trouble  in  getting  enormous 
quantities  of  blossoms  from  the  single  sorts.  A  bou- 
quet of  single  and  double  Petunias  is  seen  in  Fig  12.  I 
know  no  other  flower  so  prolific  of  bloom  all  through 
the  winter  as  the  ordinary  garden  Petunia,  if  given 
half  a  chance.  It  will  bloom  until  exhausted.  Then 
cut  it  back  almost  to  the  pot,  give  a  weekly  application 
of  manure  water,  and  in  a  few  days  you  will  see  new 
shoots  starting  up  about  the  base  of  the  old  stem, 
and  in  a  month  it  will  be  a  large  plant,  loaded  with 
flowers  and  buds.  The  crimson  purple  varieties  seem 
best  adapted  to  house  culture.  The  white  kinds  do 
very  well,  but  they  lack  that  purity  of  color  which  one 
demands  in  a  white  flower. 

A  very  good  effect  is  secured  by  planting  a  crim- 
son and  white  plant  together,  letting  the  branches 
interlace.  The  contrast  will  be  very  pleasing. 

This  plant  grows  well  when  trained  to  a  trellis, 
or  when  allowed  to  droop.  It  must  be  cut  back  fre- 
quently, if  you  want  the  greatest  quantity  of  flowers 
it  can  give.  Its  flowering  depends  on  new  growth,  and 
in  order  to  have  it  bloom  profusely  you  must  treat  it 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  keep  it  producing  new  branches. 
This  treatment  consists  in  pruning  well  from  time 


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to  time,  and  giving  frequent  applications  of  liquid 
manure.  Seedling  plants  from  the  garden  beds  are 
excellent  for  winter  use.  If  one  wants  to  make  sure 


FIG    12 — BOUQUET    OF    SINGLE    AND    DOUBLE    PETUNIAS 


of  a  certain  variety,  however,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
grow  a  plant  from  a  cutting  of  the  sort  desired,  as 
we  can  never  be  sure  what  a  seedling  will  be  like. 


RHYNCHOSPERMUM,      HELIOTROPE  73 

The    Rhynchospermum 

This  is  a  plant  of  climbing-  habit,  having  rich, 
dark  green,  shining  foliage.  Its  flowers  are  pure  white, 
and  of  peculiar  appearance,  as  each  petal  is  twisted  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  give  one  the  impression  that  the 
turbine  windmill  wheel  was  modeled  after  it.  The 
individual  flowers  are  small ;  they  are  borne  in  clusters, 
and  are  oroduced  most  freely  in  the  spring  and 
early  part  of  summer.  They  are  of  most  delicious 
fragrance.  This  plant  must  be  trained  to  a  trellis  or 
along  wires  in  order  to  get  the  best  effect  from  it. 
It  is  not  a  showy  flower,  but  it  is  one  that  will  become 
a  favorite  with  all  who  are  fond  of  beauty  in  modest 
simplicity.  Give  it  a  loamy  soil,  a  moderate  amount 
of  water  and  comparative  shade. 

The    Heliotrope 

This  is  one  of  the  most  popular  flowers  we  have, 
and  justly  so.  It  is  beautiful  in  form  and  color,  a 
great  bloomer,  deliciously  fragrant,  easily  grown,  and 
very  useful  for  cut  flower  work  or  personal  decoration. 
It  can  be  made  to  bloom  all  the  year  round,  but  plants 
for  winter  blooming  should  be  kept  from  blooming  dur- 
ing the  summer  season.  It  is  a  most  tractable  plant. 
You  can  train  it  as  a  standard,  as  a  shrub,  or  to  droop, 
to  suit  your  taste,  and  it  will  grow  and  bloom  equally 
well  in  either  form.  A  cluster  of  it  is  powerful  enough 
to  perfume  a  large  room.  It  is  one  of  those  flowers 
which  win  friendship,  and  you  find  yourself  cherishing 
a  feeling  of  attachment  for  an  old  plant.  The  more 
you  cut  it  the  more  flowers  it  will  give  you. 

In  order  to  grow  it  well,  it  must  have  a  sunny 
window,  considerable  warmth,  a  rich,  light  soil,  plenty 
of  moisture  at  the  roots,  and  rather  more  pot  room 
than  most  plants  of  its  size.  I  am  often  asked  why 


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its  leaves  have  such  a  tendency  to  turn  black  at  the 
edges  and  dry  up.  In  nine  cases  out  of  ten  this  trouble 
comes  from  one  of  two  causes :  Lack  of  sufficient 
moisture  at  the  roots,  or  lack  of  sufficient  room  for 
the  roots.  Old  plants  will  form  a  thickly  matted  mass 
of  fine,  fibrous  roots  in  the  center  of  the  pot.  Through 
this  mass  the  water  you  apply  will  often  fail  to  pene- 
trate, and  in  consequence  the  roots  at  this  place  dry  up 
and  become  diseased,  and  in  a  short  time  the  plant 
drops  its  leaves.  To  avoid  this  trouble,  see  that  the 
soil  slopes  in  toward  the  center  of  the  pot.  This  will 
cause  the  water  to  run  in  about  the  plant,  and  stand 
there  until  it  has  penetrated  the  soil  in  the  center  of  the 
pot.  If  you  think  the  drying  up  of  the  leaves  comes 
from  lack  of  root  room,  turn  the  plant  out  of  its  pot 
and  examine  the  condition  of  the  roots.  If  they  fill 
the  soil,  and  form  a  network  about  the  outside  of  it, 
you  may  be  sure  that  a  larger  pot  is  required.  Some- 
times the  leaves  turn  brown  and  drop  because  of  gas 
in  the  room,  from  leaky  stoves.  Should  the  trouble 
originate  from  this  cause,  the  only  remedy  is  that  of 
making  the  stove  gas  tight. 

A  well-developed  specimen  will  need  a  ten-inch 
pot  when  about  a  year  old.  The  flowers  are  greatly 
increased  in  size  by  applications  of  liquid  manure.  Do 
not  give  it  very  strong,  but  give  it  often.  The  dark 
varieties  are  best.  It  can  be  grown  from  cuttings, 
started  in  sand.  Young  plants  are  generally  most 
satisfactory  for  winter  use,  therefore  start  some  each 
spring,  and  give  the  old  ones  a  place  in  the  garden 
beds,  in  summer,  where  they  will  bloom  profusely. 

The     Oxalis 

This  is  a  good  plant  for  house  culture.  It  is  a 
most  profuse  bloomer,  and  gives  its  greatest  quantity 
of  flowers  in  winter  if  the  bulbs  or  tubers  from  which 


THE     OXALIS  75 

it  grows  are  allowed  to  dry  off  and  rest  during  summer. 
It  has  very  pretty  foliage,  shaped  like  that  of  the  clover, 
borne  on  long  and  slender  stems,  which  droop  over 
the  edge  of  the  pot  in  such  a  manner  as  to  almost, 
if  not  quite,  hide  it.  The  flowers  of  0.  rosea  (Fig  13) 
are  a  bright  pink,  star-shaped,  and  borne  in  clusters 
of  a  dozen  or  more,  on  long,  erect  stems.  Those  of 


FIG    13 — OXALIS   ROSEA 

the  variety  called  Buttercup  are  a  rich  canary-yellow, 
slightly  tubular  in  form,  and  larger  than  those  of 
any  other  Oxalis  I  have  ever  grown.  This  is  one  of 
the  best  winter-flowering  plants  we  have.  It  is  of 
larger  growth  than  the  pink  or  white  sort  and  blooms 
with  much  greater  profusion.  To  grow  any  variety 
of  this  plant  well,  give  it  a  soil  of  rich,  light,  sandy 
loam,  plenty  of  water,  while  growing  and  blooming, 
and  all  the  sunshine  possible.  All  varieties  are  well 


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adapted  to  basket  culture  because  of  the  spread- 
ing and  drooping  nature  of  their  foliage.  In  spring, 
withhold  water  and  let  the  foliage  die  off.  Do  not 
disturb  the  tubers  until  October.  Then  shake  them 
out  of  the  soil,  repot  them,  water  well,  and  they  will 
soon  start  into  growth.  They  will  begin  to  bloom 
about  the  first  of  January  and  continue  to  do  so 
until  May. 


CHAPTER     XIX 

ACHANIA,       HIBISCUS,       CYCLAMEN       AND      THE 
JASMINES 

The    Achania 

This  well-known  old  plant  is  not  seen  in  window 
gardens  as  frequently  as  it  ought  to  be.  It  is  one 
of  those  plants  which  no  insect  ever  attacks  if  there  is 
any  other  plant  for  it  to  feed  on.  Because  of  this,  and 
of  its  ability  to  stand  dry  air,  frequent  and  sudden 
changes  of  temperature,  dust,  and  a  good  deal  of  heat, 
it  is  one  of  the  best  of  all  plants  for  the  amateur 
to  take  in  hand  at  the  outset  of  his  career  as  a  floricul- 
turist. It  has  pleasing,  dark-green  foliage,  shaped 
very  much  like  that  of  the  Abutilon.  Its  flowers  are 
a  rich  scarlet,  and  when  seen  among  the  green  of  its 
leaves,  they  give  a  most  brilliant  bit  of  color.  They 
are  never  borne  in  great  profusion,  but  a  well-grown 
plant  will  seldom  be  without  a  few  on  each  branch, 
therefore  it  is  much  more  satisfactory  than  many  plants 
which  bloom  by  "fits  and  starts,"  and  can  never  be 
depended  on  for  flowers.  It  requires  ordinary  soil, 
about  the  same  amount  of  water  as  the  Geranium, 
and  a  sunny  location.  It  becomes  quite  a  shrub 
with  age. 

The     Chinese    Hibiscus 

The  Hibiscus  seems  to  be  a  plant  comparatively 
little  known,  but  its  merits  as  a  summer  bloomer  are 
so  great  that  it  ought  to  be  grown  by  all  who  are  fond 
of  beautiful  flowers,  and  a  brilliant  show  of  color.  As 


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a  plant  for  growing  in  large  pots  or  tubs,  to  decorate 
the  porch  or  veranda,  I  know  of  nothing  superior. 
For  the  summer  decoration  of  the  greenhouse  or  small 
conservatory,  which  is  likely  to  be  somewhat  neglected 
at  this  season,  it  is  one  of  our  very  best  plants.  If 
I  were  to  choose  three  plants  for  such  use,  I  would 
take  the  Fuchsia,  Gloxinia  and  Hibiscus.  These  are 
all  summer  bloomers,  profuse  in  flowering,  beautiful  in 
habit,  and  of  the  greatest  variety  of  color,  and  all  are 
easily  grown. 

The  Hibiscus  delights  in  a  rich  soil,  made  up  of 
loam,  woods  earth,  and  some  old  and  thoroughly  rotted 
manure,  with  sand  enough  added  to  make  the  mass 
light  and  porous.  Especial  care  must  be  taken  to  give 
good  drainage,  as  the  plant  will  be  pretty  sure  to  drop 
its  leaves  and  buds  if  there  is  stagnant  water  at  its 
roots.  It  must  be  watered  regularly.  One  neglect  to 
do  this  gives  it  a  check  which  will  injure  it  for  all 
the  season.  If  you  want  fine  plants,  they  must  be 
grown  on  steadily,  and  anything  which  interferes  with 
steady  growth  will  prevent  success.  They  are  fond  of 
sunshine,  but  should  be  protected  from  the  intense  heat 
of  the  afternoon.  They  are  also  fond  of  a  good  deal 
of  moisture  on  their  foliage.  The  leaves  are  a  rich, 
shining  green,  and  form  a  fine  background  for  the 
large  and  exceedingly  brilliant  flowers,  which  are  often 
of  the  size  of  a  Hollyhock,  which  flower  some  varieties 
resemble.  The  color  of  most  varieties  is  a  bright,  glow- 
ing scarlet. 

The  plant  should  be  dried  off*  gradually  in  October, 
to  prepare  it  for  winter  in  the  cellar.  Bring  up  in 
March,  repot,  and  cut  back  well.  Many  complain  that 
it  drops  its  buds  at  the  least  provocation,  and  often 
without  any,  in  fact.  I  have  had  plants  which  would 
do  this,  but  careful  examination  has  always  shown 
me  that  there  was  some  cause,  and  that  I  have  most 


THE      CYCLAMEN 


79 


always  found  to  be  defective  root  action.  Drainage 
must  be  perfect,  the  soil  must  be  kept  moist  but  not 
wet,  and  the  red  spider  must  be  kept  from  working 
on  the  plant. 

The    Cyclamen 

The  Cyclamen  is  a  good  plant  for  culture  in  the 
sitting  room  window.  Its  foliage  is  very  pretty,  that 
of  most  varieties  being  blotched  and  marbled  with 
light  green  on  a  darker  surface,  with  reddish  veins 


FIG    14 — THE    PERSIAN    CYCLAMEN 


8O  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

running  through  it.  The  flowers  are  mostly  of  shades 
of  pink  and  mauve,  passing  into  white  toward  the 
extremity  of  the  petals,  which  are  sharply  reflexed.  A 
well-grown  plant  will  seldom  be  without  flowers  from 
January  to  April.  The  bulbs  should  be  pressed  down 
on  top  of  the  soil  to  about  half  their  depth.  They  like 
a  rich  soil,  with  plenty  of  sand  in  it.  They  do  not 
require  much  water,  but  they  must  not  be  allowed 
to  get  dry  during  their  season  of  flowering.  A  weekly 
application  of  liquid  manure  helps  to  increase  the  size 
and  quantity  of  the  flowers.  In  summer  the  bulbs 
should  be  dried  off  gradually,  and  the  pots  containing 
them  put  out  of  doors  in  some  shady  place  where  they 
will  get  plenty  of  air.  Give  just  enough  water  to 
keep  them  from  drying  up.  Repot  in  September,  using 
the  same  size  of  pot  they  have  been  growing  in.  Do 
not  be  alarmed  if  the  bulbs  lose  their  foliage  in  sum- 
mer. As  long  as  the  bulbs  remain  plump  and  hard 
they  are  all  right.  Old  bulbs,  however,  are  not  so 
desirable  as  young  ones,  and  I  would  advise  the 
purchase  of  young  plants  each  season  in  preference 
to  keeping  over  plants  which  have  done  duty  in  the 
house  for  a  season.  The  Cyclamen  is  generally  classed 
among  the  bulbs.  It  is  not  a  bulb,  however,  strictly 
speaking.  A  well-grown  plant  of  Cyclamen  Persicum 
is  seen  in  Fig  14. 

The    Jasmines 

Under  the  name  of  Jasmine  or  Jessamine  several 
different  kinds  of  plants  are  popular  with  most  ama- 
teur floriculturists^  because  of  the  ease  with  which  they 
can  be  grown.  Give  them  soil  of  ordinary  richness, 
sunshine,  and  keep  them  free  from  insects,  and  they 
are  pretty  sure  to  do  well  in  the  sitting  room  or  in  the 
greenhouse. 


THE      JASMINES  8l 

One  of  the  most  popular  kinds  of  these  plants  is 
the  Cestrum,  commonly  known  as  Jasmine.  C.  Parqui 
is  a  species  with  greenish-yellow,  tubular  flowers,  borne 
in  racemes  on  the  ends  of  the  branches.  These  open  at 
night  and  emit  a  heavy,  rich  fragrance  which  will  per- 
vade the  air  to  a  great  distance.  One  cluster  will  fill 
a  large  room  with  its  perfume.  It  grows  very  rapidly, 
becoming  a  strong  shrub  in  a  few  months.  It  has  large 
and  handsome  foliage,  and  produces  a  fine  effect  when 
given  a  pot  large  enough  to  allow  free  development 
of  its  roots.  It  is  excellent  for  use  as  the  center  of  a 
group  in  a  bay  window.  It  can  be  wintered  in  the 
cellar. 

Cestrum  aurantiacinn  resembles  C.  Parqui  very 
much  in  foliage  and  habit  of  growth,  but  its  flowers 
are  a  pale  yellow.  They  are  produced  in  great  profu- 
sion during  the  latter  part  of  summer.  This  plant 
is  best  taken  care  of  over  winter  by  putting  in  the 
cellar.  It  forms  a  charming  shrub,  or  can  be  trained 
as  a  standard. 

Gardenia  florida  is  known  as  the  Cape  Jasmine.  It 
has  rich,  shining  foliage  of  a  dark  green.  Its  flowers 
are  white,  thick  and  waxy  in  texture,  and  possess  an 
odor  similar  to  that  of  the  Tuberose.  It  is  a  summer 
bloomer,  and  should  be  wintered  in  the  cellar.  It  is  not 
a  rank  grower,  seldom  getting  to  be  more  than  a  small 
shrub  outside  of  a  greenhouse  at  the  North.  Shower 
well  often,  to  keep  down  red  spider,  and  see  that  the 
scale  does  not  get  on  it.  Give  a  sandy  soil,  moderate 
amount  of  water,  and  a  sunny  place. 

Jasminum  grandiftorum,  a  true  Jasmine^  is  a 
favorite  old  plant.  It  is  a  climber.  It  grows  quite 
rapidly,  and  will  clamber  all  about  the  window  in  one 
season.  It  has  fine  foliage,  and  bears  star-shaped, 
pure  white  flowers  in  great  profusion.  These  are 
delightfully  sweet.  Its  season  of  flowering  is  from 
November  till  May. 


82  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

Jasminum  revolutuni  is  a  kind  of  half-shrubby; 
half-climbing  species,  with  thick  evergreen  foliage.  Its 
flowers  are  a  rich  yellow,  and  fragrant.  Give  a  sandy 
soil,  made  rich  with  rotten  manure.  Drain  well,  and 
apply  water  daily  to  the  foliage.  Cut  back  from  time 
to  time  to  induce  constant  development  of  new 
branches.  Give  a  good  amount  of  sunshine,  and  a 
warm  place  to  grow  in. 


CHAPTER    XX 

THE      CALLA,      SALVIA,      BOUVARDIA     AND     GENISTA 

The    Calla 

This  plant  is  one  of  the  most  popular  on  the  list. 
Its  large,  rich  green  leaves,  thrown  up  well  above  the 


FIG    15 — CALLA    BLOSSOMS    AND    LEAVES 


84  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

pot  on  their  long  stalks,  are  quite  ornamental  enough 
in  themselves  to  give  it  an  honorable  place  in  any 
collection;  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  these  its  large 
white  blossom,  as  the  spathe  surrounding  the  spadix 
is  incorrectly  called,  and  it  is  not  at  all  to  be  wondered 
at  that  it  is,  and  long  has  been,  a  general  favorite.  For 
the  center  of  a  bay  window  collection  it  is  unexcelled, 
when  well  grown.  A  typical  specimen  Calla  is  shown 
in  Fig  15. 

It  is  one  of  those  plants  which  can  be  kept  growing 
all  the  year  round  without  seeming  to  be  injured  by 
this  treatment.  I  have  seen  fine  plants  which  had  been 
kept  growing  for  years,  and  so  far  as  I  could  see, 
they  were  strong  and  healthy.  But  I  have  always 
had  the  most  flowers  from  the  Calla  when  the  roots 
were  dried  off  every  summer.  My  plan  is  to  put  the 
pot  out  of  doors  in  June,  on  its  side.  No  water  is 
given  from  that  time  to  September.  Then  I  turn  the 
earth  out  of  the  pot,  shake  away  the  soil  from  the 
roots,  and  repot  them  in  a  compost  made  up  of  muck, 
well-rotted  manure  and  sand,  taking  care  to  put  more 
sand  immediately  about  the  bulb  than  elsewhere.  I 
provide  the  best  of  drainage.  Though  a  semi-aquatic 
plant,  it  does  not  delight  in  stagnant  water  about  its 
roots.  The  requisite  amount  of  water  can  be  given 
by  watering  daily,  and  giving  it  in  such  quantities  that 
some  will  run  through  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot.  In 
winter  let  the  water  be  warm.  Shower  the  foliage 
daily.  Give  a  light  but  not  very  sunny  window,  and 
keep  it  rather  wrarm.  Do  not  let  more  than  three  or 
four  crowns  remain  in  a  ten-inch  pot.  Keep  all  offsets 
beyond  this  number  removed  as  they  appear.  Four 
crowns  will  give  you,  or  ought  to  give  you,  about 
sixteen  strong,  healthy  leaves  at  a  time,  and  during 
the  flowering  season  each  crown  ought  to  give  from 
three  to  four  flowers. 


SALVIA,       BOUVARDIA  85 

The    Salvia 

The  Scarlet  Salvia — ,5\  splendens  of  the  catalogs- 
is  a  fine  plant  for  house  culture,  provided  the  red  spider 
can  be  kept  from  working  on  it.  If  not  showered  well 
daily,  this  pest  will  soon  ruin  it.  It  grows  to  the 
hight  of  three  or  four  feet,  in  a  good  soil,  if  given 
plenty  of  root  room.  It  has  large,  rich,  shining  foliage, 
and  bears  long  spikes  of  velvety  scarlet  flowers,  of 
most  intense  richness  of  color.  It  is  one  of  our  best 
autumn  flowering  garden  plants,  and  young  plants  can 
be  taken  away  from  about  the  roots  of  the  old  ones 
in  September  and  potted  for  winter  use.  In  a  short 
time  they  will  become  good  specimens,  and  by  Novem- 
ber they  will  come  into  bloom.  If  the  spikes  are  cut 
off  as  soon  as  the  flowers  on  them  fade,  new  branches 
will  be  sent  out  below,  which,  in  turn,  will  produce 
flowers.  As  growth  will  go  on  all  winter,  if  good 
soil  is  given,  flowers  will  be  borne  constantly,  and  in 
great  profusion,  and  nothing  finer  in  the  way  of  vivid 
and  brilliant  show  can  be  imagined.  Its  flowers  have 
a  fiery  luster  equal  to  those  of  the  Lobelia  cardinalis. 
They  are  excellent  for  cutting  for  use  in  bouquets. 

The    Bouvardia 

This  plant  would  be  a  general  favorite  with  all 
who  love  beautiful  flowers  if  it  were  of  easier  cultiva- 
tion. But,  as  generally  grown,  it  is  unsatisfactory. 
This  is  the  fault  of  the  grower,  rather  than  of  the  plant, 
however.  If  proper  attention  is  given  to  the  soil  and 
general  requirements  of  the  plant,  it  can  be  made  to 
bloom  successfully  in  the  window,  but  if  neglected 
in  these  respects  it  will  generally  refuse  to  blossom; 
or  if  it  bears  flowers  they  will  be  so  few  and  inferior 
that  after  a  year  or  two  the  owner  gets  tired  of  trying 
to  grow  good  plants  and  they  will  be  thrown  aside 
for  something  less  exacting. 


86  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

I  find  that  in  order  to  have  good  flowers  from  this 
plant  in  the  sitting  room  in  winter  one  must  take 
especial  pains  with  the  plants  in  summer.  I  take  the 
old  plants  in  June  and  break  the  roots  apart.  Leave 
several  "eyes,"  or  growing  points,  to  each  plant.  Set 
in  the  open  ground,  in  a  light,  rich,  sandy  soil.  Soon 
several  shoots  will  appear.  Let  as  many  grow  as  you 
think  will  be  needed  to  give  you  a  good-sized  plant 
in  fall.  After  they  have  made  a  growth  of  a  foot, 
cut  the  tops  off  to  induce  branching.  In  this  manner 
you  secure  plenty  of  flowering  surface  for  next  winter's 
crop  of  flowers. 

In  September  lift  and  pot  your  plants.  Have  the 
compost  rich,  and  see  that  it  has  a  good  proportion 
of  sharp  sand  in  it.  Set  the  plants  in  shade  for  two 
or  three  weeks,  watering  well  when  potted.  Do  not 
take  inside  until  they  seem  thoroughly  established  in 
their  pots.  Then  give  a  sunny  window,  plenty  of  air 
overhead,  and  a  moderate  amount  of  water.  Great  care 
must  be  taken  to  prevent  the  red  spider  and  aphis 
from  attacking  them ;  also  the  mealy  bug.  All  these 
insects  seem  to  have  an  especial  fondness  for  this  plant. 
In  November  the  plants  will  begin  to  show  flowers, 
and  if  they  are  given  a  good  cutting  back  occasionally, 
and  liquid  manure  is  applied  weekly,  and  they  can 
have  a  somewhat  warm,  but  not  hot,  place  to  grow 
in,  they  will  give  a  steady  succession  of  flowers  all 
through  the  season. 

There  are  several  fine  varieties.  Some  are  a  bril- 
liant scarlet;  others  a  soft  rose  color,  while  some  are 
pure  white,  and  last  year  we  had  a  sulphur-yellow 
variety  heralded  in  the  catalogs.  It  was  valuable  only 
as  promising  something  better  in  that  color  by  and 
by.  There  are  double  and  single  sorts,  both  equally 
desirable.  For  small  bouquets,  corsage  decorations, 
and  the  like,  few  flowers  are  superior.  They  have  a 


THE      GENISTA  87 

grace  and  delicacy  which  commend  them  to  all  who 
love  flowers  for  individual  beauty.  In  the  greenhouse 
we  have  few  better  plants.  They  grow  to  perfection 
there  on  account  of  warmth  and  moisture  and  even 
temperature. 

The    Genista 

This  plant  has  lately  come  into  popularity  because 
the  florists  have  taken  it  in  hand  and  made  it  familiar 
to  the  flower-loving  public,  by  bringing  it  into  bloom 


FIG    l6 — THE    GENISTA 


88  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

at  Easter  time,  when  liberal  use  is  made  of  it  in  the 
decoration  of  churches  for  the  special  services  of 
the  season.  Its  flowers  are  pea  shaped,  and  borne  in 
short  spikes  all  over  the  many  branches.  In  color 
they  are  a  rich,  glowing  yellow,  and  the  popular 
name  of  "the  flower  of  the  cloth  of  gold"  is  a  most 
appropriate  one.  They  have  a  very  pleasing  fragrance. 
The  foliage  is  fine  and  plentiful,  and  makes  the  plant 
well  worth  growing  if  it  had  no  flowers.  To  succeed 
with  it,  care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  it  never  gets 
dry  at  the  roots.  If  this  occurs,  its  leaves  will  drop. 
Especial  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  the  soil  from 
drying  out  as  flowering  time  approaches.  Then  give 
liberal  applications  of  fertilizer  to  encourage  the  free 
development  of  bulbs.  Shower  frequently  throughout 
the  season.  Give  a  soil  of  loam  and  shift  when  the 
old  pots  become  full  of  roots.  A  well-grown  specimen 
is  seen  in  Fig  16. 


CHAPTER    XXI 

THE     AMARYLLIS,     VALLOTA,      GLOXINIA     AND     TUBER- 
OUS     BEGONIA 

The    Amaryllis 

This  is  a  noble  genus  of  plants.  The  flowers  are 
gorgeous  in  coloring  and  conspicuous  on  acount  of 
shape  and  habit  of  growth.  A  fine  plant,  when  in 
bloom,  always  elicits  great  admiration,  and  there  are 
few  collections  which  do  not  include  one  or  more 
varieties.  But,  as  a  general  thing,  few  plants  are  more 
unsatisfactory.  It  is  a  general  complaint  from  ladies 
that  "my  Amaryllis  won't  bloom.  What  is  the  matter 
with  it?" 

As  a  general  thing  the  "matter"  is  simply  this : 
The  habit  of  the  plant  is  not  understood.  It  must 
have  a  period  of  rest  after  each  period  of  growth,  and 
unless  these  periods  succeed  each  other  regularly  you 
will  be  likely  to  get  no  flowers.  As  generally  grown, 
the  plants  are  kept  growing  all  the  season.  They  are 
kept  in  the  window,  and  water  given  regularly.  This 
is  wrong.  While  making  new  leaves  growth  should 
be  encouraged.  When  the  leaves  stop  coming  and  the 
older  ones  begin  to  turn  yellow,  you  may  take  it  as  an 
indication  that  the  plant  wants  to  rest.  Encourage 
it  to  do  this  in  as  complete  a  manner  as  possible  by 
withholding  water.  Not  so  much  so  that  the  soil 
becomes  quite  dry,  but  just  moist  enough  to  keep 
the  bulb  plump.  Set  away  from  the  light.  If  the 
foliage  all  dies  off  it  does  not  matter. 

Among  the  first  indications  of  a  resumption  of 
growth  will  quite  often  be  the  appearance  of  a  flower 
stalk.  When  this  .shows,  give  liquid  manure,  li^ht 


Amaryllis  Hippeastrum  Zephyranthes 

FIG    17 — PROMINENT    TYPES    OF    AMARYLLIS 


Sorekelia 


THE      VALLOTA  9! 

and  warmth.  The  blossoms  are  shaped  like  those  of 
the  Trumpet  Lily.  There  will  generally  be  three  or 
lour  on  each  stalk.  Some  are  scarlet  striped  with 
white  down  each  petal.  Some  are  rose  color  striped 
with  white,  while  others  are  scarlet  with  white  flakes 
and  marblings,  or  white  with  flaking  of  the  darker 
color.  If  care  is  taken  to  give  alternate  periods  of 
rest  and  growth,  and  make  each  condition  as  complete 
as  possible,  a  crop  or  two  of  flowers  can  be  looked  for 
each  year  with  reasonable  certainty.  A  well  grown 
plant  is  a  superb  sight,  either  in  the  sitting  room  or 
greenhouse.  There  are  several  distinct  types  of 
Amaryllis,  some  of  the  leading  ones  are  shown  in 
Fig  17. 

The     Vallota 

Vallota  purpurea,  or  Scarborough  Lily,  is  well 
known  as  a  good  late  summer  or  early  fall  flowering 
bulb.  It  is  often  called  an  Amaryllis,  and  indeed 
it  is  a  member  of  that  family,  but  it  does  not  require 
the  treatment  recommended  for  that  flower,. and,  unlike 
that,  it  can  be  depended  on  with  tolerable  certainty  to 
give  a  crop  of  blossoms  in  August  or  September  of 
each  year.  Its  flowers  are  produced  on  stalks  about 
a  foot  in  hight.  Each  stalk  bears  from  three  to  six, 
as  seen  in  Fig  18.  They  are  shaped  like  those  of 
the  Amaryllis,  but  are  not  so  large.  In  color  they  are 
a  glowing  scarlet,  and  when  seen  among  the  dark 
green  foliage  of  which  the  plant  bears  a  profusion, 
they  are  extremely  brilliant  and  effective.  It  is  an 
easily  grown  plant.  It  does  best  when  stored  in  a 
cool,  dry  cellar  in  winter.  If  kept  for  pot  flowering, 
it  seems  to  be  somewhat  opposed  to  having  its  roots 
disturbed.  Therefore,  if  it  is  found  necessary  to  repot 
it,  do  this  immediately  after  its  annual  blooming  season 
in  order  to  give  the  bulbs  a  chance  to  become  perfectly 


FIG    1 8 — VALLOTA    PURPUREA 


THE     GLOXINIA  93 

established  before  the  next  season  comes  around.  If 
this  is  not  done  till  spring,  it  has,  with  me,  almost 
always  refused  to  bloom  for  a  year.  It  produces  new 
bulbs  rapidly,  and  most  of  these  should  be  removed 
as  they  appear,  or  you  will  soon  have  a  pot  filled  to  its 
edge  with  small  plants  which  will  interfere  with  the 
vigorous  blooming  of  the  older  bulbs.  Four  or  six 
old  bulbs  in  a  ten-inch  pot  will  be  sufficient.  Save 
the  offsets  and  plant  them  out  in  the  garden  in  spring 
where  they  will  be  likely  to  bloom  the  second  season. 
In  fall  they  can  be  taken  up  and  stored  away  with 
Tuberoses  and  other  bulbs  of  that  class. 

The    Gloxinia 

The  Gloxinia  is  one  of  the  very  finest  of  all  sum- 
mer blooming  plants  for  window  or  greenhouse  culture. 
It  is  wonderfully  rich  and  varied  in  its  coloring.  In 
this  respect  it  quite  equals  the  Pansy.  Its  depth  of 
color  gives  it  a  velvety  look  which  always  challenges 
admiration  from  the  lover  of  rich  and  magnificent 
coloring.  In  shape  it  somewhat  resembles  the  well- 
known  old  Canterbury  Bell  of  the  border,  as  shown 
in  Fig  19.  The  flowers  of  most  varieties  are  drooping 
in  habit,  though  some  are  erect.  The  colors  range 
through  all  shades  of  scarlet,  crimson,  rose,  purple, 
lilac,  lemon-yellow  and  blue  to  pure  white.  Some  will 
have  a  white  throat,  while  all  the  rest  of  the  flower 
is  dark.  Others  will  have  an  edge  merely  of  white, 
while  others  will  have  heavy  blotchings  of  vividly 
contrasting  colors.  The  flower  is  thick  in  texture, 
and  frequently  lasts  for  a  week  before  falling  off. 
There  will  be  from  three  to  six  at  a  time  on  well-grown 
plants,  with  buds  in  all  stages  of  development.  If 
plants  are  started  in  March  or  April  they  ought  to 
come  into  bloom  bv  Tune,  and  from  that  time  to 


94  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

November  they   should   give   a   steady   succession   of 
bloom. 

The  Gloxinia  can  be  grown  from  seed.  The 
directions  given  regarding  the  growing  of  the  Mimulus 
from  seed  will  apply  in  this  case.  But  as  plants  will 
not  be  likely  to  reach  a  flowering  size  before  two 
years,  under  ordinary  treatment,  I  would  advise  buying 


FIG    IQ HYBRID    GLOXINIAS 

tubers.  In  this  way  you  can  be  sure  of  flowers  the 
first  season.  This  plant  likes  a  light  soil,  made  up 
principally  of  leaf  mold,  with  considerable  sand  worked 
in.  Use  enough  leaf  mold,  with  all  the  roots  dug 
with  it  left  in,  or  turfy  matter  full  of  fibrous  grass 
roots,  to  make  the  compost  spongy  in  character.  Put 


THE     GLOXINIA  95 

a  root  an  inch  across  in  a  five-inch  pot.  For  larger 
tubers  use  a  six-inch  pot.  Plant  them  so  that  the  top 
of  the  root  will  be  covered  about  half  an  inch.  Give 
a  warm,  moist  place,  but  not  very  strong  sunshine 
at  any  time.  When  blooming  give  a  shady  place, 
as  the  thick  flowers  are  easily  affected  by  the  rays 
of  the  sun,  and  turn  brown  in  a  short  time.  Give 
water  enough  while  the  plant  is  growing  to  keep 
the  soil  moist  all  through.  The  Gloxinia  likes  a  good 
deal  of  moisture  in  the  air,  but  does  not  care  to  have 
it  applied  to  its  foliage  by  showering.  A  well-grown 
specimen  will  have  foliage  six  or  eight  inches  long 
and  about  four  inches  across,  and  the  leaves  will  droop 
or  curve  over  the  pot  in  such  a  manner  as  to  almost 
hide  it.  The  foliage,  like  the  flowers,  is  very  thick 
and  heavy  in  texture,  and  because  of  its  tenderness 
is  easily  injured  in  handling,  therefore  do  not  bruise 
it  if  possible  to  avoid  doing  so,  or  the  leaves  will  have 
discolored  spots  on  them  which  render  them  unsightly, 
and  a  good  background  or  foundation  of  perfect  foliage 
is  necessary  in  showing  off  the  flowers  to  the  best 
advantage.  When  in  bloom  give  semi-weekly  applica- 
tions of  not  too  strong  manure  water.  This  will 
increase  the  size  and  quantity  of  the  flowers  greatly. 
About  November,  and  sometimes  earlier,  the 
flowers  will  begin  to  diminish  in  size  and  number,  and 
the  foliage  will  show  yellow  edges.  This  indicates  a 
desire  on  the  part  of  the  plant  to  rest.  Encourage 
it  to  do  so  by  withholding  water,  not  all  at  once, 
but  gradually.  The  leaves  will  ripen  and  drop  off  one 
by  one.  When  they  are  all  gone,  set  the  pots  con- 
taining the  tubers  away  in  some  place  where  they  will 
be  safe  from  frost,  and  allow  them  to  remain  there  till 
the  following  March,  giving  no  water  meantime.  Then 
repot  them,  and  start  into  new  growth  by  giving  water, 
light  and  warmth.  Some  persons  take  their  Gloxinias 


96  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

out  of  the  pots  in  fall  and  store  in  sand  or  sawdust, 
but  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  leaving  them 
in  the  pots  where  they  grew  during  summer  is  the 
safest  plan,  if  one  is  careful  to  dry  them  off  well 
before  putting  them  away.  Of  course  they  should  not 
be  stored  in  a  place  where  the  air  is  so  dry  that  the 
tubers  will  be  withered.  There  should  be  just  enough 
moisture  furnished  to  keep  them  in  a  plump  condition 
while  resting. 

Tuberous    Begonias 

These  plants  are  revelations  to  us.  They  are  a 
"new  departure"  in  the  Begonia  line  and  convince  us 
that  still  greater  surprises  are  in  store  for  us  from  this 
wonderfully  versatile  family.  They  come  in  a  wide 
range  of  colors,  many  of  them  being  as  rich  and  deep 
in  tone  as  the  darker  Geraniums,  while  some  are 
exceedingly  delicate  in  coloring.  Some  are  double, 
some  single — all  showy,  and  sure  to  attract  attention. 
They  require  the  same  treatment  in  all  particulars  as 
the  Gloxinia. 


CHAPTER    XXII 

THE      ABUTILON,       MIMULUS,      CINERARIA      AND 
CALCEOLARIA 

The     Abutilon 

The  Abutilon,  Chinese  Bell  Flower,  or  Flowering 
Maple,  as  it  is  known  in  various  sections  of  the  coun- 
try, is  one  of  the  best  of  all  plants  for  house  culture. 
It  is  a  free  grower,  a  good  bloomer,  and  gives  its 
greatest  crop  of  flowers  during  the  winter  season,  when 
flowers  are  most  highly  prized.  It  is  a  plant  that  does 
not  require  coaxing  to  grow  well.  It  stands  dry  air, 
dust  and  frequent  changes  of  temperature  better  than 
almost  any  other  plant,  and  is  seldom  attacked  by  any 
insect.  All  these  things  taken  together  make  it  a  plant 
especially  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  amateur.  It  is  a 
good  plant  to  begin  on. 

A  well-grown  specimen  is  always  a  source  of 
pleasure  to  the  lover  of  fine  plants.  A  poorly  grown 
plant  is  an  eyesore,  for  if  awkward  at  all  it  is  likely  to 
be  very  much  so.  There  is  no  reason  why  your  plants 
should  not  be  well  shaped  if  you  are  willing  to  give 
them  a  little  care.  All  that  is  required  is  judicious 
pruning  at  the  proper  time.  The  Abutilon  is  a  very 
tractable  plant,  and  can  be  made  to  assume  almost  any 
form  desired.  If  you  want  a  shrub  of  it  pinch  back 
while  small,  to  induce  the  formation  of  branches  near 
the  pot.  If  a  tree  shape  is  preferred  let  a  straight  stalk 
grow  to  the  hight  of  two,  three  or  four  feet,  accord- 
ing to  the  hight  desired  for  the  top  or  head  of  your 
tree.  Then  pinch  back,  and  let  branches  start,  being 
careful  to  leave  only  those  near  the  top.  By  pinching 


98  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

these  back  in  turn  you  can  force  other  branches  to 
break,  and  in  this  manner  a  bushy  head  can  be  formed 
with  but  little  trouble. 

The  flowers  are  pendulous,  and  shaped  like  a  bell, 
hence  the  name  of  Bell  Flower,  while  the  foliage  of 
most  varieties  is  shaped  like  that  of  the  Maple,  hence 
the  name  of  Flowering  Maple.  The  colors  run  through 
various  shades  of  red,  pink,  orange,  clear  yellow  and 
crimson-purple  to  pure  white.  A  well-grown  plant, 
when  in  full  bloom,  is  a  beautiful  sight,  with  its  grace- 
ful bells  pendent  from  their  long  and  slender  stems, 
showing  against  the  pleasing  and  abundant  foliage. 
King  of  Roses  is  a  beautiful,  soft  rose  color,  veined 
with  white.  It  is  a  most  profuse  bloomer,  and  makes 
strong  growth.  Golden  Fleece  is  pure  yellow,  also  a 
great  bloomer.  Crusader  is  a  rich  scarlet.  Boule  de 
Neige  is  a  pure  white,  very  delicate  in  habit,  and  one 
of  the  best.  There  are  several  fine  variegated  sorts. 
One  of  the  best  is  A.  Thompsonii,  with  leaves  elegantly 
marbled  in  mosaic-like  pattern  with  light  and  dark 
green  and  yellow.  A.  vexillarium  is  a  trailing  variety, 
with  long  and  pointed  leaves  of  green  and  yellow.  It 
is  a  charming  plant  for  a  basket,  or  for  growing  in  a 
pot  on  a  bracket.  A.  Savitzii  has  foliage  of  a  pale 
green,  heavily  edged  and  marked  with  white,  and  is 
one  of  our  very  best  variegated  plants  for  decorative 
purposes. 

The  Abutilon  likes  about  the  same  kind  of  soil 
that  suits  the  Geranium.  It  must  have  considerable  pot 
room  if  you  want  to  develop  the  full  beauty  of  the 
plant.  Shower  well  to  keep  the  foliage  clean,  and 
bring  out  the  beauty  and  brightness  of  it  to  the  best 
advantage.  The  scale  sometimes  gets  on  the  stalk.  In 
case  you  find  it  there,  scrub  the  plant  well  with  an  old 
brush  and  soapsuds.  Cuttings  can  be  started  very 
easily  at  any  time  of  the  year.  If  you  want  your 


THE      MIMULUS  99 

plants  for  winter  blooming,  keep  them  pretty  dry 
during  summer.  Repot  in  September,  cutting  the 
branches  in  well  at  that  time.  If  allowed  to  bloom  in 
summer,  they  can  be  kept  over  winter  in  the  cellar. 
Old  plants  can  be  set  out  on  the  lawn  in  summer, 
where  they  will  bloom  with  great  profusion  till  the 
coming  of  cold  weather. 

The     Mimulus 

Mimulus  moschatus,  or  Musk  Plant,  so  called  on 
account  of  the  peculiar  musky  odor  of  its  foliage,  has 
long  been  grown  in  window  gardens,  where  it  has 
given  very  good  satisfaction.  Its  flowers  of  yellow 
blotched  with  maroon  have  a  bright  and  cheerful  look 
in  midwinter.  It  is  easily  raised  from  seed.  If  wanted 
for  winter  blooming,  sow  in  June,  in  pots  or  pans  of 
very  fine,  light  earth.  Sprinkle  the  surface  of  the  soil 
before  sowing  the  seed,  and  press  down  smoothly  with 
the  hand.  Then  scatter  the  fine  seed  over  the  soil,  after 
which  press  the  earth  in  the  pot  or  pan  again  to  imbed 
the  seed  in  it.  Because  it  is  so  fine,  it  is  hardly  safe 
to  attempt  to  cover  it,  and  it  will  germinate  quite  as 
well  without  being  covered  if  it  is  kept  moist.  The 
young  plants  will  soon  appear.  Do  not  force  them  or 
they  will  become  weak  and  spindling.  Give  plenty  of 
fresh  air,  and,  after  a  little,  the  early  morning  sun- 
shine. These  directions,  it  will  be  well  to  bear  in 
mind,  are  for  a  June  sowing,  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
plants  for  winter  use. 

When  five  or  six  leaves  have  been  made,  pick  off 
the  young  plants  into  two  or  three-inch  pots,  filled  with 
ordinary  potting  soil.  Do  not  give  too  much  heat,  and 
keep  sheltered  from  winds,  as  the  plants  are  always 
tender  and  therefore  easily  bruised.  If  strong  plants 
are  desired,  frequent  shifts  must  be  made.  Pinch  the 
branches  back  to  make  the  plants  bushy,  and  do  not 


100  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

allow  them  to  bloom  during  the  fall.  A  seven-inch  pot 
will  afford  ample  room  for  the  roots  of  a  good  speci- 
men. A  liberal  supply  of  water  should  be  given,  but 
the  soil  must  be  kept  light  and  porous  to  prevent  the 
bad  effects  of  overwatering.  Be  sure  to  see  that  the 
drainage  is  perfect.  When  in  bloom  give  a  rather 
shady  window.  An  east  one  is  much  preferable  to  a 
south  one.  This  plant  is  excellent  for  basket  use  if 
you  are  particular  to  give  it  all  the  water  it  wants. 
The  lately  introduced  varieties  are  much  larger  than 
the  old  M.  moschatus,  and  have  very  rich  flowers, 
rivaling  in  brilliance  the  Tiger  Lily,  which  they  some- 
what resemble  in  the  vividness  of  their  markings. 

The    Cineraria 

This  is  a  most  magnificent  winter  blooming  plant. 
Its  flowers  are  produced  in  great  numbers,  in  flat 
clusters,  and  almost  cover  the  plant,  as  seen  in  Fig  20. 
They  are  wonderfully  rich  and  varied  in  coloring,  and 
a  good-sized  plant,  in  full  bloom,  is  a  flower  show  in 
itself.  The  flowers  are  about  an  inch  across,  mostly 
single.  Some  will  be  dark  in  color  the  whole  length 
of  the  petal,  with  a  yellow  center,  while  others  will 
be  rayed  or  banded  with  white.  The  prevailing  color 
is  a  rich  purplish-crimson,  running  through  many 
shades.  The  flower  stalks  are  thrown  up  among  the 
strong  foliage  which  covers  the  soil  and  spreads  over 
the  edges  of  the  pot.  This  plant  can  be  grown  from 
seed,  which  should  be  sown  as  directed  for  the  Mimu- 
lus.  March  or  April  sowings  will  generally  give 
winter  flowering  plants.  But  I  would  advise  buying 
young  plants  in  spring  rather  than  depending  upon 
seedlings  of  your  own  raising.  In  order  to  grow  good 
plants  from  seed  the  amateur  is  obliged  to  work  very 
carefully,  as  young  plants  are  extremely  delicate,  and 


(JIN ERARIA..' ' '•  '-  >  ' 


tot 


a  little  mismanagement  is  likely  to  result  in  entire 
failure.  I  would  not  be  understood  as  attempting  to. 
discourage  the  amateur  from  experimenting  in  grow- 
ing plants  from  seed,  but  what  I  mean  is  this :  That 
he  will  always  find  it  safer  to  depend  on  plants  which 
he  can  buy  of  the  florist. 


FIG    20 — SPECIMEN    CINERARIA    PLANT 

The  Cineraria  should  be  repotted  from  time  to 
time  during  the  summer.  By  November  it  ought  to  be 
growing  in  a  seven-inch  pot.  When  you  have  brought 
it  to  this  stage,  do  not  shift  again,  but  let  the  roots 
fill  the  soil  until  they  become  somewhat  pot-bound,  in 


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which  condition  it  will  bloom  better  than  it  will  in  a 
pot  containing  soil  which  is  not  completely  filled 
ivith  roots. 

The  great  drawback  to  the  successful  culture  of 
the  Cineraria  in  the  sitting  room  is  its  liability  to 
attacks  of  the  aphis.  Quite  often  before  you  suspect 
the  presence  of  this  insect  the  underside  of  the  leaves 
will  be  covered  with  them.  If  not  driven  away  your 
plants  will  be  ruined.  I  have  found  the  soap  insecti- 
cide heretofore  spoken  of  most  effective  in  fighting 
this  pest.  Dip  the  plants  in  the  liquid,  instead  of 
showering  them,  and  let  it  dry  on  the  lower  side  of 
the  leaf,  where  it  seems  to  leave  a  "tang"  which  the 
aphis  is  not  fond  of.  Give  ordinary  soil,  and  moderate 
amount  of  water,  with  plenty  of  light. 

Do  not  attempt  to  carry  over  old  plants  for  a 
second  season's  flowering.  Get  young,  strong  plants 
each  season,  in  fall,  if  you  want  fine  flowers  from  the 
Cineraria. 

The    Calceolaria 

This  is  a  fine  plant  for  late  summer  and  fall  use. 
It  produces  a  wonderful  profusion  of  flowers  in  large, 
branching  clusters,  very  peculiar  in  shape.  Each 
flower  is  a  sort  of  bag,  like  our  native  Moccasin 
Flower.  The  colors  range  through  yellow,  maroon 
and  crimson,  most  varieties  being  thickly  spotted  with 
contrasting  colors.  The  plants  can  be  grown  from 
seed,  or  you  can  buy  them  in  spring  from  the  florist. 
The  seed,  like  that  of  most  greenhouse  plants,  is  very 
fine,  and  extreme  care  must  be  taken  in  sowing  it  not 
to  cover  deeply  with  soil  or  it  will  fail  to  germinate. 
The  directions  given  for  Mimulus  apply  equally  well 
to  the  Calceolaria.  Give  it  a  moderate  amount  of 
water,  ordinary  soil  and  sunshine.  Like  the  Cineraria, 
it  is  subject  to  attacks  from  the  aphis,  and  must  be 


THE      CALCEOLARIA 


103 


v/atched  carefully  to  guard  against  the  depredations 
of  this  insect.  Apply  the  soap  insecticide  as  advised 
for  the  Cineraria.  Late-sown  plants  can  be  made  to 
bloom  in  winter  if  the  air  in  which  they  are  grown 
can  be  kept  moist  enough  to  keep  the  red  spider  from 
working.  A  well-grown  specimen  plant  is  seen  in 
Fig  21. 


FIG   21— SPECIMEN    CALCEOLARIA    PLANT 


CHAPTER    XXIII 

THE      HYDRANGEA,      DAPHNE,      OLEA      FRAGRANS      AND 
MYRTLE 

The    Hydrangea 

The  Hydrangea  is  a  prime  favorite  with  all  who 
have  room  for  a  shrub  of  the  size  which  it  attains  with 
age.  Its  large,  rich  foliage,  of  the  brightest  green, 
gives  it  an  attractive  appearance  at  any  time.  When  to 
this,  is  added  the  immense  clusters  of  flowers  which 
are  produced  so  freely  during  summer,  and  which 
last  so  long,  it  is  certainly  a  plant  to  be  admired. 

Old  plants  often  get  to  be  four  and  five  feet  high, 
with  many  branches,  and  each  branch  will  bend  beneath 
the  weight  of  its  great  panicle  of  bloom.  These  pan- 
icles are  often  eight  inches  across.  They  are  com- 
posed of  hundreds  of  individual  flowers.  The  best 
known  species,  H.  hortensis,  bears  bright  pink  blos- 
soms, gradually  changing  to  a  pale  green.  They 
remain  for  months. 

The  culture  required  is  very  simple.  Give  a  soil 
of  ordinary  richness,  water  freely  while  growing,  and 
keep  from  the  hot  sun.  In  fall  gradually  withhold 
water,  and  put  the  plants  in  the  cellar  over  winter. 
Give  plenty  of  root  room.  An  old  plant  will  require 
a  large  box  or  tub  if  you  expect  a  yearly  development 
of  strong  branches  from  which  the  flowers  of  the  next 
year  will  be  produced.  This  plant  shares  in  popularity 
with  the  Oleander,  and,  like  that  plant,  it  is  one  of 
the  best  for  summer  decoration  of  the  piazza  or  lawn. 
A  pretty  variety  for  the  window  is  H.  speciosa  varie- 
gat  a,  having  a  leaf  of  bright,  shining  green,  banded 


HYDRANGEA,     DAPHNE 


105 


down  its  center  with  pure  white.  Like  most  varie- 
gated-leaved plants,  especially  those  having  a  pure 
white  variegation,  it  is  somewhat  delicate  and  will  not 
do  well  out  of  doors.  The  variety  Otaksa  (Fig  22)  is 
a  stronger  grower  and  more  profuse  bloomer,  and  is 
especially  suited  for  pot  culture  for  decorative 
purposes. 


FIG  22— HYDRANGEA  OTAKSA 

The    Daphne    Odora 

This  old  plant  is  not  as  well  known  as  it  ought 
to  be,  or  as  it  would  be  if  its  merits  were  more 
familiar  to  the  flower-loving  public.  It  is  an  evergreen 
shrub,  having  thick,  dark  green  foliage.  On  the 


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extremities  of  its  branches  it  produces  clusters  of 
flowers,  mostly  white,  but  having  sometimes  a  slight 
pinkish  or  lilac  tinge.  They  have  a  most  delicious 
fragrance,  and  on  this  account,  if  for  no  other,  the 
plant  ought  to  become  a  favorite.  But  it  is  quite  as 
beautiful  as  it  is  sweet.  A  plant  will  reach  a  hight 
of  three  feet  in  five  or  six  years,  with  many  branches. 
If  left  to  train  itself  it  generally  branches  a  few  inches 
from  the  pot,  but  it  can  be  made  to  assume  a  tree  shape. 
It  can  be  wintered  in  the  cellar. 

Oka    fra grans 

This  species  of  Olive,  which  is  also  known  as 
Osmanthus  (fragrant  flower),  is  a  most  delightful  little 
plant  for  those  who  love  flowers  for  individual  merit 
rather  than  mere  show  of  color.  It  has  foliage  of  a 
thick,  leathery  texture,  and  on  this  account  is  well 
adapted  to  culture  in  a  room  where  there  is  dust  and 
hot,  dry  air,  all  plants  having  this  kind  of  foliage 
standing  these  drawbacks  to  successful  cultivation 
much  better  than  those  having  thin  or  soft  foliage.  It 
is  a  slow  grower,  and  does  not  become  a  large  plant 
outside  of  a  greenhouse.  Its  flowers  are  so  small  as  to 
be  inconspicuous,  and  often  you  would  hardly  suspect 
their  existence  were  it  not  for  their  delicious  fragrance, 
which  is  strong  enough  to  pervade  a  large  room.  The 
odor  has  some  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  tuberose  scent, 
being  rich  and  heavy,  but  not  so  much  so  as  to  be 
sickening  or  cloying.  Give  ordinary  soil,  a  half-shady 
place,  moderate  supply  of  water,  and  keep  the  plant 
clean. 

The   Myrtle 

This  plant  is  seldom  seen  in  perfection  in  the 
living  room  of  American  families,  but  among  the 
Germans  remarkably  fine  specimens  will  be  found.  I 


OLEO     FRAGRANS,      MYRTLE  IO7 

have  seen  plants  five  and  six  feet  tall,  with  a  spread 
of  three  feet,  thickly  set  with  branches  from  the  pot 
to  the  top  of  the  plant,  and  every  branch  apparently 
retaining  all  the  leaves  it  ever  had.  The  beauty  of 
such  a  specimen,  in  its  luxuriance  of  glossy,  dark 
foliage,  makes  one  long  to  find  out  the  secret  of  its  most 
successful  cultivation.  I  have  repeatedly  asked  the 
owners  of  such  plants  how  they  grew  them  to  such 
perfection.  The  answer  almost  invariably  is :  "Use 
rich  soil,  and  keep  them  clean."  Beyond  this,  they  do 
not  recognize  any  special  requirement  on  the  part  of 
the  plant.  An  examination  of  the  soil  in  which  I  have 
found  fine  specimens  growing  has  convinced  me  that 
a  sandy  loam  suits  them  best.  This  should  be  made 
quite  rich,  and  kept  moderately  moist.  By  "keeping 
clean,"  I  presume  the  owners  meant  that  frequent 
showering  was  advisable.  I  have  never  seen  but  one 
insect  on  this  plant,  and  that  is  scale.  By  dipping  it 
in  an  infusion  of  lemon  oil,  the  plant  can  soon  be  freed 
from  the  ravages  of  this  pest.  The  kind  of  Myrtle 
in  common  use  is  M.  communis.  It  blooms  in  spring, 
and  has  a  charming  little  white  flower,  whose  petals 
are  as  daintily  delicate  as  frostwork. 


CHAPTER    XXIV 

SWAINSONIA,      JUSTICIA,      LINUM,      CLIVIA,      BOUGAIN- 

VILLEA,       MARGUERITE,       PENTAS,       TROPAEO- 

LUM       AND       EUPHORBIA 

Swainsonia 

A  very  desirable,  free-flowering  plant.  There  are 
two  varieties  in  general  cultivation,  alba,  white  and 
rosea,  pink.  Their  flowers  are  produced  in  clusters. 
They  are  like  those  of  the  Pea  in  shape.  The  foliage 
is  profuse,  and  of  a  rich  green,  and  being  finely  cut,  it 
furnishes  a  pretty  background  for  the  flowers.  Con- 
siderable pot  room  and  plenty  of  water  should  be 
given.  Fine  for  greenhouse  or  window  garden 

Justicia 

A  very  easily  grown  plant.  Flowers  pink,  pro- 
duced in  large,  upright  heads.  Give  a  sandy  soil, 
moderate  amount  of  water  and  a  sunny  window. 

Linum    Trigynum 

A  favorite  house  plant.  Flowers  rich  yellow, 
produced  so  freely  as  to  cover  the  branches.  Subject 
to  red  spider. 

Clivia,    or   Imantophyllum 

This  plant  ought  to  be  better  known.  It  is  of 
very  easy  culture.  It  has  leaves  like  those  of  the 
Amaryllis.  Its  flowers  are  lily-shaped,  borne  in  large 
clusters.  They  remain  for  a  long  time.  Color,  orange, 
with  buff  markings  at  the  throat.  Roots  thick  and 


CLIVIA,       BOUGAINVILLEA,       MARGUERITES          lOQ 

fleshy,  throwing  the  crown  of  the  plant  well  above 
the  soil,  unless  frequently  repotted.  Grows  in  any 
good  soil. 

Bougainvillea    glabra    Sander  iana 

One  of  the  most  striking  plants  of  recent  introduc- 
tion. Unlike  the  older  forms  of  Bougainvillea  this 
variety  is  of  close,  compact  habit.  It  comes  into 
bloom  in  February  or  March.  What  are  generally 
considered  its  flowers  are  really  bracts  inclosing  the 
true  flowers,  which  are  small  and  inconspicuous. 
These  bracts  are  a  bright  rosy  crimson.  They  literally 
cover  the  plant  and  remain  for  months.  It  is  -of  the 
easiest  possible  culture.  Give  it  a  sandy  soil,  a  sunny 
location,  and  plenty  of  water  while  growing.  After 
the  bracts  lose  their  brilliance,  cut  the  plant  back 
sharply,  shortening  every  branch  until  it  is  little  more 
than  a  spur.  Keep  rather  dry  for  about  two  months. 
In  October,  repot  and  encourage  growth.  Seldom 
troubled  with  insects  of  any  kind. 

Marguerites 

Paris  Daisies.  Charming  plants  for  winter  flow- 
ering. Foliage  very  attractive,  being  finely  cut. 
Flowers  single,  and  shaped  exactly  like  those  of  the 
Meadow  or  Field  Daisy,  but  having  narrow  petals, 
and  more  of  them.  The  white  variety  is  most 
extensively  grown,  but  the  yellow  variety  ought  to  be 
in  every  collection.  Strong  growers.  Must  have 
plenty  of  pot  room  in  order  to  do  well.  Pinch  back 
at  intervals  during  summer,  to  insure  compact  form. 
Often  troubled  with  scale.  Use  lemon  or  fir-tree  oil, 
and  scrub  the  stalk  well  with  a  stiff  brush.  Does  well 
anywhere.  Excellent  for  cutting.  A  good  plant  for 
Easter  use. 


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Pentas    lanceolata 

A  plant  not  very  extensively  grown,  because  it  is 
not  as  well  known  as  it  ought  to  be.  Its  flowers  are 
pure  white,  in  clusters.  They  resemble  those'  of  the 
Bouvardia  somewhat  in  general  appearance,  but  are 
larger.  An  excellent  winter  bloomer. 

Tropaeolum 

These  are  good  winter  bloomers  if  the  red  spider 
is  kept  from  injuring  them.  Give  them  a  sunny  place, 
and  a  soil  of  only  moderate  richness.  In  a  rich  soil, 
they  produce  branches  luxuriantly,  but  have  but  few 
flowers.  A  new  variety,  Phoebe,  is  one  of  the  best 
for  greenhouse  culture  in  winter.  Its  flowers  are  a 
rich  yellow,  with  a  blotch  of  crimson  maroon  on  each 
petal.  This  variety  grows  to  a  hight  of  ten  feet  and 
must  be  trained  on  strings  or  wire  netting. 

Euphorbia    Jacquiniflora 

One  of  the  old  favorites,  fast  regaining  its  former 
popularity  because  of  its  great  merit.  Flowers  of 
bright  orange  scarlet,  in  drooping,  graceful  sprays. 
Excellent  for  winter  use. 


CHAPTER    XXV 

THE     ABUTILON,      BEGONIA     AND     ROSE 

The    Abutilon 

Chinese  Bell  Flower,  so  called  because  of  the 
shape  of  their  pendent  flowers ;  also  known  as  Flower- 
ing Maple,  because  of  the  resemblance  of  its  foliage 
to  that  of  our  native  Maple.  An  excellent  plant  for 
the  house  or  greenhouse,  because  of  its  sturdy  habit, 
profuse  flowering  qualities  and  the  beauty  of  its  blos- 
soms. Requires  about  the  same  care  as  the  Geranium. 
Can  be  grown  as  a  small  tree,  by  training  as  advised 
in  the  remarks  on  the  Chrysanthemum.  The  follow- 
ing are  among  the  most  distinct  sorts : 

Boule  de  Neige — Pure  white. 

Royal  Scarlet — Rich  scarlet.    Very  fine. 

Rosaeflora — Bright  rose. 

Splendens — Red. 

Infanta  Eulalia — Pink.    Great  bloomer. 

Golden  Fleece — Yellow.    Free  flowering. 

A  list  of  varieties  having  beautifully  variegated 
foliage  will  be  found  in  the  chapters  devoted  to  the 
description  of  Decorative  Plants. 

Begonia 

Everybody  grows  this  .plant,  and  almost  everybody 
succeeds  with  it,  because  it  is  one  of  the  plants  that 
needs  no  coaxing  or  humoring.  Give  it  a  soil  con- 
taining considerable  leaf  mold  or  turfy  matter,  or  one 
of  loam  and  sand,  drain  its  pots  well,  and  keep  it  out 
of  the  hot  sun,  and  you  will  be  sure  to  get  plenty 


112  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

of  flowers.  It  is  seldom  attacked  by  insects,  but  has 
been  troubled,  somewhat,  of  late,  with  the  fungous 
disease  of  which  mention  has  been  made.  This  can 
be  kept  in  check  easily  by  the  use  of  Copperdine. 

There  are  many  varieties  in  cultivation,  all  good, 
but  the  amateur  who  is  obliged  to  confine  his  or  her 
selection  to  a  few  varieties  will  find  the  following  list 
to  include  the  best  and  most  distinct  sorts : 

Haageana — A  robust  variety,  having  bronze-green 
foliage,  and  large,  rosy-white  flowers. 

Rubra — A  grand  old  variety.  Strong  grower. 
Flowers  coral  red,  in  enormous,  drooping,  spreading 
panicles.  Always  in  bloom.  The  Begonia  for  every- 
body to  grow. 

Semperflorens  gigantea — Carmine  flowers,  large 
and  showy. 

Gloire  de  Lorraine — No  plant  of  recent  introduc- 
tion has  created  a  greater  furore  among  florists.  A 
magnificent  sort  for  winter  flowering.  Of  medium 
size  and  very  symmetrical  habit.  Literally  covered 
from  October  to  April  with  large  rose-colored  flowers. 
The  queen  of  Begonias. 

Tuberous  Begonias  are  among  the  finest  of  our 
summer  blooming  plants.  They  should  be  started  in 
January  and  February  for  early  flowering,  and  at 
intervals  thereafter,  up  to  March,  to  prolong  the  season 
of  bloom.  They  like  a  rich,  spongy  soil,  which  should 
have  good  drainage.  Keep  in  a  light  place,  but  not  in 
strong  sunshine.  The  flowers  of  many  varieties  often 
measure  six  inches  across.  In  color  they  range  from 
white  and  delicate  shades  of  yellow  and  rose  to  brilliant 
tones  of  scarlet,  crimson  and  orange.  Some  are  single, 
some  double.  The  double  sorts  will  be  found  most 
satisfactory,  so  far  as  the  individual  flower  is  con- 
cerned, but  the  single  ones  are  quite  their  equal  in 
decorative  ability.  This  class  of  Begonia  cannot  be 


PIG   23 — SINGLE    AND    DOUBLE    TUBEROUS    BEGONIAS 


1 14  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

too  highly  recommended,  especially  for  the  summer 
decoration  of  the  greenhouse.  A  frilled  or  fringed  sort 
of  recent  introduction  is  offered  as  a  great  improve- 
ment on  the  original  type.  Sprays  of  single  and 
double  Tuberous  Begonias  are  shown  in  Fig  23. 

For    a    list    of    flowering    Begonias    having    fine 
foliage,  see  chapter  on  Decorative  Plants. 

The  Rose 

Every  lover  of  flowers  would  like  to  grow  Roses. 
But,  as  a  general  thing,  few  amateurs  succeed  with 
them.    One  reason  why  they  fail  is — they  select  varie- 
ties unsuited  to  house  culture.     Another  is — they  do 
not  give  them  proper  treatment.     The  Rose  likes  a 
rather  heavy  soil — something  that  will  be  close  and 
firm  about  its  roots — and  such  a  soil  most  persons  do 
not   furnish   for  their  plants,  thinking  they   will  not 
do  well  in  it.     But  use  a  loam  containing  some  clay 
for  your  Roses,  make  it  rich  with  bone  meal,  and  you 
will  find  that  they  do  much  better  than  in  a  light,  open 
soil.     Have  their  pots  drained  well,  and  do  not  use 
large  ones,  as  this  plant  does  not  have  many  roots. 
In  potting,  see  that  the  soil  is  made  as  firm  as  possible 
about  the  plants.     Do  not  allow   those  intended   for 
winter  flowering  to  bloom  in  summer.    Cut  them  back 
well,  until  the  last  of  September.     Look  out  for  the 
aphis  and  the  red  spider,  both  of  which  are  sure  to 
attack  them,  whether  in  greenhouse  or  window  garden. 
Keep  tobacco  stalks  and  leaves  on  the  soil  about  the 
plants  and  shower  daily.    Use  all  the  precautions  here- 
tofore advised  in  fighting  these  pests,  for  success  in 
their  culture  depends  on  your  success  in  keeping  insects 
under  control. 

The  best  varieties  for  the  amateur  to  experiment 
with  are : 


THE     ROSE  115 

Agrippina,  crimson,  with  beautiful  buds,  and  very 
fragrant. 

Queen's  Scarlet,  crimson. 

Hermosa,  pink. 

Clothilde  Soupert,  a  member  of  the  Polyantha 
branch  of  the  family,  is  a  good  pot  rose.  Color, 
pearly  rose ;  flowers  very  double,  produced  in  large 
clusters. 

It  is  with  Roses  as  with  Ferns — some  persons 
succeed  with  them,  while  others  fail.  Those  who  have 
the  "knack"  of  Rose-growing  will  find  many  varieties 
listed  in  the  catalogs  which  they  will  do  well  to  try. 


CHAPTER    XXVI 


AZALEAS     AND     CAMELLIAS 

The   Azalea 

There  are  few  more  beautiful  plants  than  the 
Azalea.  A  half  dozen  varieties  will  give  a  succession 
or  bloom  for  two  or  three  months.  A  good  plant  will 
be  literally  covered  with  flowers.  I  have  counted  over 
one  hundred  on  a  plant  not  more  than  a  foot  and  a 
half  high. 

It  is  greatly  to  be  wondered  at  that  we  so  seldom 
see  this  plant  in  the  collections  of  amateurs.  I  think 
this  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  fact  that  the  impression 
prevails  that  it  is  a  most  difficult  plant  to  grow  well. 
As  ordinarily  grown,  it  is  true  that  it  generally  fails 
to  give  satisfaction,  but  I  think  this  is  owing  solely  to 
wrong  treatment,  and  that  when  the  amateur  comes 
to  understand  the  requirements  of  the  plant,  and  gives 
the  treatment  demanded,  he  can  succeed  with  it  under 
conditions  where  a  Rose  would  be  a  failure. 

The  Azalea  will  not  do  well  in  a  soil  containing 
lime.  If  you  cannot  get  a  peat  for  it  that  is  wholly 
free  from  lime  I  would  not  advise  you  to  try  to  grow 
it,  for,  though  the  plants  may  live  on  from  year  to 
year,  they  will  not  flourish,  consequently  they  will 
afford  you  no  pleasure.  If  peat  in  which  there  is  no 
lime  is  not  attainable  at  home,  send  to  some  of  the 
large  florist  firms  at  the  East,  and  they  can  furnish  you 
all  you  want.  When  it  comes,  mix  with  enough  fine, 
sharp,  gritty  sand  to  make  the  mass  light.  In  such  a 
soil,  packed  firmly  about  the  roots  of  your  plants,  you 


AZALEAS     AND     CAMELLIAS 


will  find  that  they  will  do  well,  provided  proper  care 
is  given  them  in  other  ways. 

The  most  important  item,  after  getting  proper 
soil,  is  watering.  This  plant  does  not  require  a  great 
deal  of  water  at  its  roots,  but  it  wants  just  enough, 
and  must  never  be  allowed  to  get  dry,  for  if  it  does 
it  will  often  drop  its  buds  before  the  flowering  season 
begins,  the  buds  being  formed  some  months  before 
blooming  time.  Its  roots  are  very  fine  and  grow  in  a 
thick,  thread-like  mass  about  the  bottom  of  the  stalk, 
and  it  frequently  happens  that  the  soil  at  this  point 
is  so  compacted  by  many  roots  that  it  is  a  difficult 
matter  for  water  to  penetrate  it.  When  water  is 
applied  it  runs  off  into  the  looser  soil  about  these  roots, 
and  the  very  place  where  moisture  is  most  required 
is  the  very  place  which  gets  least.  In  consequence, 
the  roots  which  fill  this  place  where  little  moisture 
penetrates  suffer,  and  this  leads  to  an  unhealthy  condi- 
tion, which  results  in  dropping  of  the  buds  and  often 
of  the  foliage  also.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  the  soil 
lower  at  the  center  of  the  pot  than  it  is  at  the  sides,  so 
that  the  water  you  apply  will  run  in  toward  the  center, 
rather  than  away  from  it.  If  it  does  this,  and  you 
make  small  holes  in  the  central  mass  by  running  a  fork 
or  something  similar  into  it  occasionally,  the  roots 
will  be  likely  to  get  all  the  moisture  they  need. 

But  while  it  is  of  prime  importance  that  the  soil 
should  be  given  all  the  water  it  requires,  it  is  equally 
important  that  it  should  not  be  given  too  much.  Too 
much  water  brings  on  decay  of  the  fine  and  delicate 
roots.  This  must  be  guarded  against  by  making  sure 
that  the  soil  in  the  pot  is  well  drained. 

The  roots  of  the  Azalea,  being  small  and  very  fine, 
are  produced  in  such  compact  masses  that  large  pots 
are  not  required. 


Il8  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

When  the  plants  show  signs  of  blooming,  by 
enlargement  of  the  buds  at  the  ends  of  the  branches, 
give  a  weekly  watering  with  liquid  manure,  using  it 
rather  \veak.  It  should  never  be  darker  than  very  weak 
tea.  Cow  manure  is  the  best  fertilizer  of  anything 
I  have  ever  tried  on  this  plant. 

When  in  bloom,  the  plants  should  never  be 
allowed  to  stand  in  the  sunshine,  as  the  flowers  soon 
wither  there,  but  if  kept  in  shade  they  will  last  for 
several  days. 

After  blooming  is  over,  the  annual  period  of 
growth  begins.  I  continue  the  application  of  weak 
manure  water  all  through  the  season  of  growth.  The 
plants  should  be  given  plenty  of  light  at  this  time, 
and  all  the  fresh  air  possible,  and  they  should  not  be 
kept  in  a  very  warm  room.  If  they  are  the  growth  will 
be  forced  and  weak.  In  fact,  the  best  plants  are 
always  grown,  and  the  finest  flowers  obtained,  in 
houses  where  the  temperature  is  not  allowed  to  run 
high.  It  is  a  plant  especially  adapted  to  cool  rooms, 
but,  like  the  Geranium,  it  will  do  well  under  circum- 
stances and  conditions  not  just  to  its  liking. 

After  completing  their  growth,  I  put  my  plants 
out  of  doors  in  a  shaded,  sheltered  place  where  they 
are  watched  and  watered  carefully  all  the  season.  In 
order  to  attain  success  with  them,  they  must  never  be 
neglected.  They  must  be  cared  for  properly  during 
the  growing  season  to  induce  a  vigorous  development 
of  branches  from  which  next  season's  flowers  are  to 
be  produced ;  when  these  branches  are  developed,  care 
must  be  taken  that  the  buds  which  have  formed  shall 
receive  as  steady  a  supply  of  nourishment  during  their 
dormant  season  as  possible.  All  the  nourishment  to 
be  given  at  this  period  is  that  which  comes  from  a 
regular  and  sufficient  supply  of  water.  Syringe  daily. 

When  it  is  found  necessary  to  repot  a  plant,  attend 


AZALEAS     AND      CAMELLIAS  IIQ 

to  it  as  soon  as  the  flowering  season  is  past,  and 
before  the  plant  begins  to  make  its  annual  growth.  In 
shifting,  a  pot  one  or  two  sizes  larger  than  the  old  one 
will  be  large  enough. 

Indie  a  alba  is  one  of  the  finest  white  varieties. 
Good  plants  of  this  variety  will  be  covered  with  large 
flowers  of  the  purest  white  imaginable.  Flag  of  Truce 


F«G   24— A    WELL-GROWN    AZALEA 

is  a  semi-double  sort,  with  larsfe  flowers  of  pure  white. 
It  is  quite  a  late  bloomer.  Inveryana  is  white  striped 
with  bright  rose.  Perfection  is  pale  rose,  very  delicate 
and  beautiful.  Criterion  is  salmon,  shading  into  clear 
white,  with  crimson  spots  on  the  upper  petals.  Amcena 
is  a  rather  small  flower  of  rosy  purple,  early  and  very 
profuse.  There  are  so  many  very  fine  varieties  that 


I2O  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

it  is  an  extremely  difficult  matter  to  select  the  best. 
If  you  want  to  order,  and  do  not  know  what  to  select 
from  the  catalogs,  tell  the  dealer  to  whom  the  order 
is  sent  as  nearly  as  possible  what  you  want,  and  let 
him  make  the  selection  for  you.  I  am  quite  sure  you 
will  be  as  well  suited  as  you  would  be  if  you  were 
to  make  the  selection  yourself,  from  the  descriptions 
given. 

Plants  of  three  and  four  years  of  age,  as  sent 
out  by  the  dealers,  are  almost  always  trained  to  a 
low  tree  form.  They  will  be  from  a  foot  to  a  foot 
and  a  half  in  hight,  with  a  round,  dense  head  of  many 
small  branches,  as  seen  in  Fig  24.  The  annual  growth 
is  not  extensive,  so  that  it  takes  a  long  time  for  a 
plant  to  become  very  large. 

The     Camellia 

This  once  popular  plant  has  fallen  into  disfavor 
because  of  its  habit  of  dropping  its  buds  before  they 
are  developed.  The  plant,  however,  is  seldom  as  much 
to  blame  as  its  owner  is.  It  forms  its  buds  in  summer 
months  before  blooming,  when  it  makes  its  annual 
growth.  After  this  period  is  when  the  danger  comes 
in.  If  it  is  allowed  to  get  dry  at  its  roots  its  buds  will 
fall,  and  if  its  soil  is  kept  too  wet,  the  same  thing  will 
happen.  If  the  plant  is  given  a  cool,  airy,  shady 
place  in  summer,  and  care  is  taken  to  keep  the  soil 
evenly  moist,  all  the  time — and  this  can  be  done  by 
watching  it  carefully — and  too  much  heat  is  not  given 
it,  in  fall,  when  brought  into  the  house,  and  the  air 
is  kept  moist  as  possible  by  frequent  showerings,  the 
amateur  can  grow  it  with  reasonable  hope  of  success. 
It  is  a  superbly  beautiful  plant  for  rather  cool  rooms 
where  the  temperature  fluctuates  but  little.  Its  flowers 
are  produced  in  winter.  They  are  of  white,  rose, 
cherry,  salmon  and  red,  perfect  in  form  as  any  Rose, 


AZALEAS      AND      CAMELLIAS  121 

with  thick,  wax-like  petals  having-  a  luster  like  that 
of  satin.  The  annual  growth  takes  place  after  the 
flowering1  period.  Give  it  a  soil  of  loam  and  leaf  mold, 
and  provide  good  drainage.  The  conscientious  ama- 
teur will  do  well  to  experiment  with  this  magnificent 
plant.  In  the  greenhouse  the  glass  must  be  shaded 
over  where  the  plant  stands,  or  its  young  leaves  will 
be  scalded  by  the  sun. 


CHAPTER    XXVII 

GERANIUMS      AND      PELARGONIUMS 

If  I  were  asked  to  name  the  one  flower  best 
adapted  to  general  culture  I  would  most  unhesitatingly 
name  the  Geranium  as  that  flower.  It  is  of  the  easiest 
culture.  It  succeeds  under  the  most  unfavorable  condi- 
tions. It  blooms  continuously  and  profusely,  and  its 
colors  are  wonderfully  rich  and  varied.  We  have  no 
plant  able  to  give  a  grander  display  in  the  greenhouse, 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  what  it  can 
do  in  the  greenhouse  it  is  perfectly  willing  to  do  in 
the  window  garden.  All  it  asks  is  good  soil,  water 
enough  to  keep  its  roots  moist,  but  never  wet,  plenty 
of  sunshine  and  immunity  from  frost:  It  stands  heat, 
dry  air,  and  frequent  and  sudden  changes  of  temper- 
ature as  no  other  plant  does.  Anybody  can  grow  it, 
and  everybody  ought  to  grow  it.  The  newer  varieties 
are  magnificent.  A  group  of  these  is  seen  in  Fig  25. 
Those  named  in  the  list  below  have  been  selected  from 
the  best  of  recent  introduction,  and  are  the  very  finest 
of  their  class,  and  far  superior  to  the  older  sorts  com- 
monly grown.  They  include  varieties  having  flowers 
of  the  highest  perfection  of  form,  size  and  richness  of 
color,  freedom  of  bloom  and  general  excellence  as  to 
habit.  Any  of  them  will  be  a  revelation  to  those  who 
have  been  growing  the  old  kinds. 

Chateaubriand — Scarlet,  shaded  with  maroon  and 
veined  with  black. 

Daumiere — Rosy  lilac,  blotched  with  white  and 
spotted  with  violet. 

Lord  Kitchener — Soft  scarlet  and  cherry  red. 

Mary  Pelton — Salmon.    A  lovely  flower. 


124  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

Oliver — A  combination  of  white,  magenta  and 
scarlet. 

Ponschkine — Violet,  blotched  with  white  on  upper 
petals.  Lower  ones  shading1  to  rose. 

The  above  varieties  are  single.  The  following  six 
are  double  varieties : 

/.  B.  Varronne — Intense  carmine,  with  white  eye. 

Richelieu — Scarlet,  orange  and  maroon. 

Mme  Carnot — Snow  white. 

Pasteur — Rich,  glowing  scarlet  of  a  charming 
shade. 

M  Canovas — Deep,  brilliant  scarlet,  shaded  with 
maroon. 

Jean  Remeau — White  veined  with  violet,  petals 
edged  with  crimson. 

The  Ivy-leaved  class  should  also  come  in  for  ? 
share  of  hearty  recommendation.  These  are  of  slendei 
or  trailing  habit.  Their  flowers  are  of  large  size  anol 
fine  form,  and  rich  and  delicate  in  coloring.  Excellent 
for  vases  or  baskets,  or  for  use  on  screens.  The  foi- 
lowing  are  new  varieties  of  great  merit : 

Achievement — Soft,  salmon  rose. 

Leopard — Pink,  blotched  with  carmine.  Re- 
sembles the  Pelargonium  in  its  peculiar  combination 
and  contrasts  of  color.  Very  fine. 

Bride — Pure  white. 

No  collection  should  be  without  some  of  the  fra- 
grant-leaved sorts,  like  Rose,  Apple,  Nutmeg  and 
others.  These  are  not  only  beautiful  plants,  but  their 
deliciously  scented  leaves  will  be  found  very  useful  in 
making  up  bouquets  and  in  all  cut  flower  work. 

A  list  of  fine  foliated  Geraniums  will  be  found  in 
the  chapters  on  Decorative  Foliage  Plants. 


GERANIUMS     AND     PELARGONIUMS  125 

Pelargonium 

The  late  Peter  Henderson  used  to  say  that  this 
class  of  plants  gave  the  most  gorgeous  flowers  of 
anything  he  had  ever  grown,  and,  were  he  obliged 
to  select  one  plant  for  spring  and  summer  decoration, 
his  choice  would  be  this.  I  agree  with  him.  The 
flowers,  which  are  larger  than  those  of  the  Geranium, 
are  also  of  fine  form,  some  having  crimped  and  ruffled 
petals  which  give  them  the  appearance  of  being  double, 
and  they  run  through  a  list  of  the  richest  colors 
imaginable,  with  combinations  of  them  that  are  simply 
dazzling.  From  pure  white  they  range  to  carmine, 
with  markings  of  darker  or  lighter  shades  of  the  same 
color,  black,  white  and  purple,  sometimes  in  blotches, 
but  often  in  featherings  and  delicate  veinings.  The 
darker  and  deeper  colors  are  velvety  in  their  richness. 

While  these  plants  do  best  in  the  greenhouse,  they 
should  always  find  a  place  in  the  window  garden. 
After  flowering,  compel  them  to  rest  for  two  months, 
by  keeping  them  quite  dry.  At  the  end  of  the  period, 
cut  back  until  you  have  only  a  stubby  skeleton  of  a 
plant.  Repot,  shaking  off  from  the  roots  all  the  old 
soil  possible.  Do  not  encourage  much  growth  until 
the  plants  are  in  the  house.  Simply  give  water  enough 
to  keep  them  alive.  They  will  do  all  the  better,  later 
on,  for  this  enforced  resting.  As  soon  as  brought  in 
they  will  begin  to  grow.  Give  them  a  place  near  the 
glass,  and  keep  them  in  a  cool  room.  As  they  grow, 
pinch  off  the  ends  of  the  branches  to  make  them  bushy. 
The  more  branches  you  secure  the  more  flowers  you 
will  have.  Expose  them  fully  to  the  sun.  Tie  the 
stalks  to  some  stout  support,  and  force  the  plants  to 
form  symmetrical  specimens  by  persistently  cutting  off 
all  branches  that  threaten  to  outgrow  others.  The 
aphis  will  be  sure  to  attack  them,  but  he  can  be  kept 


126  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

down  by  dipping  the  plants  in  the  infusion  of  soap, 
heretofore  advised,  or  by  fumigation  with  tobacco 
stems  and  leaves.  A  bath  is  most  effective,  however, 
as  it  permits  no  irfect  to  escape  if  the  plants  are 
entirely  submerged. 


CHAPTER    XXV'lii 

THE      CARNATION      AND      THE      FUCHSIA 

The     Carnation 

Everybody  knows  and  admires  this  superb  and 
exquisitely  fragrant  flower,  and  every  collection  ought 
to  contain  several  varieties  of  it.  One  fine  Carnation 
is  worth  a  score  of  ordinary  blossoms.  It  is  especially 
adapted  to  cultivation  in  cool  rooms,  where  plenty  of 
sunshine  can  be  given  it.  The  varieties  now  in  general 
cultivation  are  far  superior,  in  every  way,  to  those 
of  a  few  years  ago.  Their  flowers  are  richer  in  color, 
of  much  greater  size,  and  their  calyx  does  not  burst 
as  that  of  the  older  varieties  was  almost  sure  to.  They 
are  also  borne  on  long,  stiff  stalks,  which  makes  them 
exceedingly  useful  for  cut-flower  work.  We  have  no 
flowers  more  valuable  for  cutting,  because  they  last 
for  weeks  if  the  water  in  which  they  are  kept  is  fre- 
quently changed.  It  grows  well  in  a  loamy  soil.  It 
does  not  require  a  large  pot,  nor  a  very  great  deal  of 
water,  but  it  should  never  be  allowed  to  get  dry  at 
the  roots.  It  should  be  pinched  back  frequently  during 
the  summer,  to  secure  bushy,  compact  growth.  The 
red  spider  often  troubles  it,  but  it  can  be  kept  in  check 
by  daily  showering.  If  the  aphis  appears,  dip  the 
plants  in  the  solution  of  soap  heretofore  mentioned,  at 
least  once  a  week.  Of  late,  this  plant  has  been  con- 
siderably troubled  with  a  sort  of  bacterial  disease,  gen- 
erally termed  rust.  This  can  be  prevented  by  the 
application  of  Copperdine. 

The  following  twelve  varieties  will  be  found 
among  the  best  and  most  distinct  sorts  for  ama- 
teur use : 


128  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

Ethel  Crocker — Pink.  Large  flower.  Delight- 
fully sweet. 

Mrs  Thomas  W.  Lawson — Dark  pink.  Large 
and  of  fine  form. 

The  Marquis — Soft,  rich  shade  of  pink,  with 
fringed  petals.  Free  flowering. 


FIG    26 — MRS    GEO   M.    BRADT   CARNATIONS 

Gen  Gomez — Dark  crimson,  shading  to  maroon. 
Very  fine  fringed  flower. 

Gen  Maceo — Scarlet.    Dark  and  rich. 

G.  H.  Crane — Brilliant  shade  of  scarlet.  Very 
sweet.  Early. 

Mrs  G.  M.  Bradt — White  striped  with  scarlet.  A 
beautifully  variegated  flower.  (Fig  26.) 


THE      CHRYSANTHEMUM  133 

during  the  entire  season — therefore  see  to  it  that  its 
roots  are  always  moist. 

It  also  likes  a  good  deal  of  root  room.  If  kept  in 
small  pots  it  will  become  root-bound  before  the  middle 
of  summer,  and  this  will  give  the  plant  a  check  quite 
as  serious  in  its  effects  as  that  arising  from  an  insuf- 
ficient supply  of  water.  It  is  advisable  to  start  young 
plants  off  in  three-inch  pots,  but  as  soon  as  they  have 
filled  this  size  with  roots  they  should  be  shifted  to 
six-inch  ones,  and  about  the  middle  of  July  another 
shift  should  be  given — this  time  to  nine  or  ten-inch 
pots.  In  these  the  plants  can  be  allowed  to  bloom. 

I  would  advise  keeping  the  plants  in  pots  through- 
out the  season,  instead  of  planting  them  out  in  the 
open  ground,  and  leaving  them  there  until  the  first 
of  September,  as  many  growers  of  this  plant  advise. 
1  do  not  approve  of  this  plan,  because  it  obliges  us  to 
lift  them  at  the  very  time  buds  are  forming.  And 
no  matter  how  carefully  we  do  this  work,  the  roots 
of  the  plants  will  be  more  or  less  disturbed,  and 
any  disturbances  of  the  roots,  at  this  time,  when  the 
buds  are  forming,  must  seriously  interfere  with  the 
strong  and  satisfactory  development  of  the  flowers.  It 
is  true  that  plants  in  the  open  ground  make  a  much 
stronger  growth  than  those  kept  in  pots,  but  by  lifting 
and  potting  them  in  the  fall  we  are  obliged  to  sacrifice 
a  good  deal  of  this,  therefore  we  gain  nothing  by  put- 
ting them  in  the  garden  beds.  Of  course  plants  so 
treated  will  require  much  less  attention,  during  the 
summer,  than  those  kept  in  pots,  but  what  is  gained 
in  this  respect  is  more  than  offset  by  the  labor  required 
at  repotting  time  and  the  check  which  the  plants  are 
sure  to  receive  at  a  critical  period  of  their  life.  Plants 
kept  in  pots  escape  these  ordeals,  and  are  under  better 
control  at  all  times. 


134  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

Let  them  have  all  the  air  possible  during  the 
growing  season.  Shower  them  all  over  daily.  If  the 
aphis  attacks  them,  apply  an  infusion  of  fir-tree  oil 
soap.  See  that  it  reaches  every  part  of  the  plant. 
Water  used  daily,  in  liberal  quantities,  all  over  the 
plants,  will  prevent  the  red  spider  from  doing  harm. 
If  the  plants  are  not  showered  frequently,  this  pest 
will  be  pretty  sure  to  harm  them.  If  you  notice  that 
the  leaves  are  turning  yellow,  you  may  be  sure  that 
the  red  spider  is  at  work  on  them,  or  that  the  roots 
are  too  dry.  Examine  the  plant  carefully,  and  give 
the  treatment  necessary  to  remedy  the  existing  evil. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  tractable  of  all  plants 
It  can  be  trained  as  a  tree,  or  allowed  to  grow  in 
bush  form.  If  the  tree  shape  is  preferred,  keep  all 
branches  from  forming  while  the  plant  is  young,  and 
encourage  the  production  of  a  straight  stalk  to  the 
hight  of  two,  three  or  four  feet — or  whatever  hight 
you  want  the  head  of  the  tree  to  be.  Then  nip  off  the 
top.  Branches  will  start  below,  but  remove  all  except 
those  near  the  top  of  the  stalk.  When  these  have 
grown  to  be  four  or  five  inches  long,  nip  their  ends 
off.  This  will  force  them  to  send  out  branches.  This 
second  nipping  will  give  a  good  foundation  for  the 
head  of  the  tree,  as  a  general  thing.  If  it  does  not, 
keep  on  with  the  nipping  process  until  you  have  as 
many  branches  as  you  think  are  needed.  After  this, 
let  the  branches  lengthen  at  will.  Plants  trained  in 
this  manner  should  have  a  support  for  their  main  stalk, 
as  they  will  be  top-heavy,  and  they  are  easily  broken 
off  by  a  sudden  movement  of  their  pot,  or  a  strong 
wind.  To  grow  the  plant  in  shrubby  form,  it  is  only 
necessary  to  pinch  off  the  top  of  the  plant  when  not 
more  than  five  or  six  inches  high.  Branches  will  start 
below,  and  these  should  all  be  allowed  to  grow. 


FIG    28— SINGLE    STEM    CHRYSANTHEMUM    IORA 


I36 


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The  enormous  flowers  seen  at  the  fall  shows  are 
secured  by  sacrificing  all  the  buds  on  each  shoot  except 
the  ones  which  seem  to  possess  the  most  vigor.  (Fig 
28.)  The  flowers  thus  produced  are  interesting  as 


FIG     29 — CHRYSANTHEMUM      MRS      PERRIN 


curiosities,  but  they  are  not  as  beautiful  as  the  smaller 
ones,  of  which  we  may  have  great  quantities  on  each 
branch  if  we  allow  all  the  buds  to  grow  which  form 
there.  (Fig  29.)  A  plant  covered  with  these  smaller, 


THE     CHRYSANTHEMUM  1^7 

but  equally  perfect  flowers,  is  a  tiling  of  beauty  which 
will  afford  vastly  m@re  pleasure  than  any  plant  can 
which  bears  but  a  blossom  or  two,  of  such  enormous 
size  that  they  are  simply  floral  monstrosities. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  leave  the  plants  out  of  doors 
as  long-  as  it  is  safe  to  do  so.  A  slight  frost  will 
not  injure  them.  When  you  bring  them  into  the 
house,  put  them  in  a  room  without  fire.  Fire  heat 
forces  the  plants  to  a  rapid  and  weak  development 
which  is  highly  disastrous  to  their  welfare.  In  a  cool 
room  you  will  have  finer  flowers  and  they  will  last 
much  longer  than  when  exposed  to  too  much  warmth. 

After  the  flowering  season  is  over  cut  away  the 
entire  top  of  the  plant,  and  put  the  pot  containing 
the  roots  in  the  cellar,  if  you  desire  to  carry  them 
over.  Give  no  water  during  the  entire  winter,  unless 
the  soil  seems  to  be  getting  dust-dry.  In  March  the 
pots  can  be  brought  up,  the  soil  moistened,  light  and 
warmth  given,  and  in  a  short  time  young  shoots  will 
appear  all  over  the  surface  of  the  soil.  When  these 
have  made  a  growth  of  three  or  four  inches,  they 
can  be  cut  away  from  the  old  plant,  with  a  small 
piece  of  root  attached,  and  put  into  small  pots.  It 
will  generally  be  found  more  satisfactory,  however,  to 
get  young  plants  each  season  from  the  florist,  as  these 
will  be  likely  to  give  the  finest  flowers.  A  list  of 
desirable  kinds  is  not  attempted  because  there  are  so 
many  fine  sorts  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  make 
a  selection  without  leaving  out  some  kinds  quite  as 
desirable  as  those  chosen.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  go 
over  the  lists  and  select  those  of  the  colors  you 
prefer.  If  this  is  done,  you  will  be  pretty  sure  to 
be  satisfied  with  your  own  selection. 


CHAPTER    XXX 

PALMS 

Popular  interest  in  plants  having  ornamental 
foliage  has  rapidly  increased  during  the  past  few  years. 
Some  of  them  will  be  found  in  almost  all  collections, 
and  each  season  sees  an  addition  made  to  the  list,  in 
most  homes,  because  the  owners  have  discovered  that 
this  class  of  plants  generally  give  better  satisfaction 
than  flowering  plants  under  the  conditions  which  pre- 
vail in  most  dwellings.  They  adapt  themselves  much 
more  readily  to  sudden  changes  of  temperature,  light, 
and  other  atmospheric  conditions  which  exist  in  the 
ordinary  living  room.  A  fine  specimen  of  any  plant 
with  pleasing  foliage  is  always  attractive,  while  ordi- 
nary flowering  plants  are  not  particularly  so  unless 
in  bloom.  It  has  taken  some  time  to  educate  people 
to  an  appreciation  of  the  great  merits  of  decorative 
plants,  but  of  late  they  have  become  fully  alive  to 
the  fact  that  they  are  really  the  most  satisfactory  of 
all  plants,  if  a  proper  selection  is  made. 

No  well-appointed  room  is  complete  without  one 
or  more  handsome  foliage  plants.  With  proper  care 
in  selection,  varieties  can  be  found  which  are  fully 
able  to  adapt  themselves  to  any  condition.  The  Palm 
is  probably  the  most  popular  decorative  plant  at  pres- 
ent. It  is  a  very  easy  plant  to  manage,  if  its  wants 
are  understood,  but  the  frequency  of  requests  for 
information  regarding  its  cultivation  shows  that  there 
is  need  of  more  general  knowledge  concerning  the 
plant  and  its  requirements,  and  this  need  I  shall  try 
to  meet  in  what  I  have  to  say  in  the  following 
paragraphs. 


PALMS  139 

To  grow  the  Palm  well  it  is  essential  that  we 
give  it  good  soil,  good  drainage,  and  proper  care. 
It  seems  to  do  best  in  a  soil  of  loam  containing  some 
clay.  Its  roots  are  strong  and  fleshy,  and  like  to 
feel  themselves  firmly  supported  by  the  soil  in  which 
they  grow.  These  roots  have  a  tendency  to  run  down, 
instead  of  spreading  out,  and  the  best  pot  for  a  Palm 
is  a  deep  one  rather  than  a  broad  one.  It  is  a  difficult 
matter,  however,  to  find  such  pots,  but  good  substitutes 
for  them  are  furnished  by  the  tubs  and  boxes  sold  by 
leading  florists. 

Good  drainage  is  of  the  greatest  importance.  If  it 
is  not  provided,  surplus  water  will  be  retained  about 
the  roots  of  the  plant,  and  this  will  lead  to  souring  of 
the  soil.  This  condition  always  brings  on  an  unhealthy 
action  of  the  roots,  the  result  of  which  is  soon  seen 
in  the  yellowing  of  the  tips  of  the  leaves.  By  and  by 
the  entire  leaf  turns  brown,  and  has  to  be  cut  away. 
When  four  or  five  leaves  have  been  lost  in  this  way, 
the  average  plant  is  past  its  usefulness  for  decorative 
purposes,  for  most  varieties  produce  leaves  so  slowly 
that  they  can  never  afford  to  lose  many  of  them.  I 
find  that  more  trouble  in  growing  this  plant  satisfac- 
torily originates  from  poor  drainage  than  from  all 
other  causes.  Therefore,  the  amateur  should  be  sure 
to  see  that  each  pot  has  at  least  three  inches  of  broken 
crockery,  brick  or  charcoal  in  the  bottom  of  it,  to 
prevent  the  soil  from  washing  down  and  clogging  the 
hole  in  it.  A  layer  of  sphagnum  or  cocoa  fiber  over 
the  drainage  material,  before  filling  in  with  soil,  is  of 
great  benefit,  as  it  will  prevent  the  water  from  carrying 
down  soil  enough  to  close  the  cracks  and  crevices, 
while  it  will  in  no  way  interfere  with  the  passage  of 
surplus  water. 

Great  care  must  be  exercised  as  regards  watering. 
As  most  decorative  plants  are  used  at  some  distance 


I4O  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

from  the  window,  as  a  general  thing,  and  are  kept 
there  for  days  at  a  time,  evaporation  will  be  slow. 
It  is  a  mistake  to  give  more  water  while  the  soil 
remains  moist.  Wait  until  the  surface  of  it  appears 
dry,  and  then  give  enough  to  thoroughly  saturate  all 
in  the  pot. 

Some  persons  seem  to  have  the  idea  that  plants 
used  for  the  decoration  of  hall  or  parlor  can  be  placet! 
in  a  corner,  or  some  other  place  some  distance  from 
good  light,  and  left  there  indefinitely,  without  injury. 
This  is  not  the  case.  These  plants,  to  remain  in  health, 
must  be  given  a  chance  at  the  window,  and  kept  in 
the  best  possible  light  while  not  doing  duty  for  decora  - 
tive  purposes.  By  this  it  is  not  meant  that  they 
should  have  full  sunshine.  They  do  better  without  it. 
But  they  should  be  placed  near  the  window  whenever 
they  are  not  needed  elsewhere  in  the  room.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  have  at  least  half  a  dozen  plants.  They 
can  then  be  used  alternately,  some  doing  decorative 
duty,  while  others  are  recuperating  from  its  effect. 

Palms  are  often  injured  by  insects.  It  is  there- 
fore necessary  that  they  be  watched  carefully,  and  that 
precautions  should  be  taken  against  the  advance  and 
entrenchment  of  the  enemy.  An  ounce  of  prevention 
is  worth  a  pound  of  cure  in  this  case.  Aim  to  keep 
the  pests  from  getting  a  foothold.  This  can  be  done 
by  the  use  of  fir-tree  oil  or  lemon  oil,  and  sometimes 
by  strong  soapsuds,  though  the  efficacy  of  the  latter 
consists  more  in  the  scrubbing  process  which  generally 
accompanies  it  than  in  its  ability  to  keep  in  check  the 
enemies  of  this  class  of  plants.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
procure  a  long-handled,  stiff  bristle  brush,  with  which 
to  apply  whatever  preparation  is  used,  as  this  will 
enable  you  to  get  at  parts  of  the  plants  which  could 
not  otherwise  be  easily  reached.  Work  the  brush 
down  between  the  leaves  and  stalk,  and  scrub  the  base 


PALMS  141 

of  the  plant  well,  using  force  enough  to  dislodge  and 
remove  any  of  the  insects  which  may  have  congregated 
there.  This  is  where  the  mealy  bug  will  establish 
himself  if  not  interfered  with.  It  is  quite  necessary 
that  he  should  be  given  to  understand  that  his  presence 
will  not  be  tolerated,  if  you  expect  to  keep  your  plants 
in  good  condition.  Because  he  looks  so  much  like  a 
bit  of  cotton,  he  often  escapes  detection.  As  3oon  as 
you  see  small  white  specks  here  and  there,  generally 
between  the  leaf  and  main  stalk,  be  sure  that  the 
mealy  bug  has  come,  ..and  be  prompt  in  the  application 
of  your  remedies. 

Scale  is  another  deadly  enemy  of  the  Palm,  as 
well  as  of  most  firm,  smooth-leaved  plants.  Those 
who  have  never  seen  this  troublesome  creature  will 
not  be  likely  to  suspect  its  presence  for  some  time, 
because  it  is  so  small,  unobtrusive  and  quiet  in  its 
operations.  But  very  soon  the  appearance  of  a  plant 
infested  with  it  will  go  to  show  that  there  is  trouble 
of  some  sort,  somewhere,  and  a  close  investigation  will 
lead  to  the  discovery  of  flat  brown  particles,  resembling 
a  fish  scale  more  than  anything  else,  adhering  to  the 
leaves,  and  the  base  of  the  plant.  As  a  general  thing, 
they  will  be  found  most  plentifully  on  the  underside 
of  the  leaves.  Scrape  one  of  these  off  with  a  stick  and 
you  will  find  that  beneath  the  scale  or  shell  there  is 
a  live  creature  which  sucks  the  life  from  the  plant. 
The  best  remedy  for  this  dangerous  enemy  of  the  Palm 
is  the  lemon  or  fir-tree  oil  application  odvised  for  fight- 
ing the  mealy  bug.  Apply  it  with  the  bristle  brush, 
and  do  it  with  sufficient  force  to  remove  the  creature. 
Do  not  rest  easy  as  long  as  a  scale  is  to  be  seen.  If 
plants  are  neglected  until  they  become  covered  with 
insects  it  will  be  almost  an  impossibility  to  sret  them 
clean,  and  their  vitality  will  soon  be  lowered  beyond 
the  safety  point  by  their  ravages,  and  a  state  of  chronic 


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ill  health  sets  in  which  soon  makes  the  plants  worthless 
for  decorative  purposes.  On  this  account  I  lay  par- 
ticular stress  on  the  importance  of  always  keeping 
these  plants  clean.  Act  on  the  offensive.  Take  it  for 
granted  that  insects  will  come  if  not  headed  off,  and 
give  them  to  understand  by  the  thoroughness  of  your 
anticipatory  maneuvers  that  they  will  not  be  tolerated. 


FIG    30 — LATANIA    BORBONICA 


It  is  much  easier  to  keep  them  away  from  your  plants 
than  it  is  to  get  rid  of  them  after  they  have  taken 
possession  of  them.  "A  stitch  in  time  saves  nine"  is 
an  old  saying  which  applies  pertinently  in  this  case. 

Sometimes  yellowing  foliage  shows  that  something 
is  the  matter,  but  no  insects  can  be  found.  This  being 
the  case,  it  is  safe  to  suspect  that  a  fungous  disease 


PALMS  143 

is  at  work  on  the  plant.  Apply  Copperdine  as  a 
remedy.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  use  this  preparation  about 
once  a  month,  as  a  preventive  of  disease.  No  harm 
will  be  done  to  the  plant  if  there  is  no  real  need  for 


FIG    31 — ARECA    LUTESCENS 

it.  If  there  is  a  need,  its  application  will  be  found 
extremelv  beneficial. 

Herewith  I  give  a  list  of  the  Palms  best  adapted 
to  general  cultivation,  with  a  brief  description  of  the 
leading  kinds : 

Latania  Borbonica  (The  "Fan  Palm")  (Fig  30) 
—  This  is  a  very  attractive  plant  when  well  grown.  Its 


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large  leaves  have  a  spread  of  several  feet,  as  the  plant 
attains  age  Of  spreading  rather  than  upright  habit. 
It  will  be  found  most  effective  if  given  a  pedestal  to 
stand  on.  A  fine  specimen  is  one  of  the  most  orna- 
mental features  of  the  most  elegant  hall.  It  imparts 
an  air  of  refinement  and  beauty  to  the  place  which  the 
most  costly  and  elaborate  furniture  cannot  give.  Of 


FIG    32 — COCOS    WEDDELLIANA 

extremely  easy  culture.    A  rapid  grower.    Ornamental 
when  small,  and  increasing  in  beauty  with  age. 

Areca  lutescens  (Fig  31) — A  very  beautiful 
Palm,  with  gracefully  arching  foliage,  of  a  rich  green. 
This  species  is  a  general  favorite.  Its  habit  of  growth 
is  all  that  could  be  desired.  Whoever  owns  a  fine  spec- 
imen has  something  he  may  well  be  proud  of.  In  buy- 


PALMS 


145 


ing  it,  it  is  well  to  procure  what  is  called  "made-up" 
plants  instead  of  single  ones.  uMade-up"  plants  are 
formed  by  planting  two,  three  or  four  plants  of  differ- 
ent sizes  together,  thus  giving  a  bushy,  compact  effect 
which  a  single  plant  never  has.  The  effect  is  that  of 
a  plant  having  several  stalks  from  the  same  base.  The 


33 — KENTIA    BELMOREANA 


price  asked  is  not  much  more  than  that  for  single 
specimens,  but  the  value  of  the  plant,  from  a  decorative 
standpoint,  is  greatly  increased. 


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Cocos  Weddelliana  (Fig  32) — This  is  without 
doubt  the  most  elegant  small  Palm  in  cultivation.  Its 
foliage  is  delicate,  and  extremely  graceful.  The  habit 
of  the  plant  is  charming.  This  sort  is  excellent  for 
table  decoration,  either  in  pots  by  itself,  or  as  the 
centerpiece  of  a  fern  dish.  It  is  a  very  valuable  plant 


FIG    34 — PHOENIX    RECLINATA 

for  this  purpose,  as  it  is  of  slow  growth,  and  is  a 
long  time  in  outgrowing  its  usefulness.  One  of  the 
standard  sorts. 

Cocos  insignis — This  species  is  similar  to  C. 
Weddelliana,  except  that  its  foliage  is  heavier,  and  of 
stronger  growth.  "Made-up"  specimens  are  charming 
ornaments  for  a  small  table  bv  the  window. 


PALMS  147 

Calamus  ciliaris — A  fine  sort  for  table  decora- 
tion, or  for  jardiniere  use.  Of  reed-like  growth,  with 
pinnate  leaves. 

Kentias — These  are  among  the  most  useful  mem- 
bers of  the  great  Palm  family.  They  will  endure  more 
rough  usage  without  resentment  than  any  other  kind, 
with  the  possible  exception  of  L.  Borbonica.  Kentia 
Belmoreana  (Fig  33),  often  known  as  "the  Curly 
Palm,"  is  of  somewhat  spreading  habit,  while  K. 
Forsteriana  is  of  stronger  growth,  with  heavier  foliage. 
These  sorts  stand  dry  air  and  dust,  and  frequent 
changes  of  temperature,  and  are  to  be  recommended 
as  the  best  kinds  for  the  amateur  to  begin  with.  Well 
cared  for,  they  are  good  for  years.  "Made-up"  plants 
are  advised,  because  of  the  greater  mass  of  foliage  from 
the  pot  up  which  is  secured  by  this  method  of  planting. 

Phoenix — The  Phoenix  Palms  are  extremely 
hardy,  standing  sun  and  wind  better  than  any  other 
species.  On  this  account  they  are  well  adapted  for  use 
in  vases  for  the  lawn,  in  summer,  and  other  outdoor 
work  where  most  other  Palms  would  be  worthless. 
Large  specimens  are  fine  for  use  on  the  veranda.  P. 
Canariensis  is  especially  valuable  for  this  purpose.  P. 
reclinata  (Fig  34)  is  of  spreading  habit.  It  grows 
rapidly,  and  remains  in  good  condition  for  years.  It 
can  be  wintered  in  the  cellar,  as  can  all  the  Phoenix 
Palms,  if  it  is  not  convenient  to  keep  them  in  the  living 
room.  P.  rupicola  is  the  most  attractive  species,  with 
spreading  foliage,  gracefully  arching  away  from  the 
center  of  the  plant.  Pinnae  long  and  narrow.  A 
charming  kind  for  the  amateur. 

Ptychosperma  Alexandrae — A  Palm  of  graceful 
habit,  with  broad,  pinnated  foliage,  light  green  above, 
whitish-green  below.  A  very  rapid  grower.  A  most 
desirable  sort. 


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Rhapis  flabelliforinis  and  R.  humilis — Very  pleas- 
ing Palms,  with  slender,  graceful  stems,  and  leaves 
cleft  in  five  to  seven  divisions.  They  sucker  freely 
and  therefore  form  bushy  and  compact  specimens  with- 
out having  to  be  made  up.  Fig  34^  shows  a  good 
specimen  of  R.  humilis  or  Rattan  Palm. 


34    1-2 — RHAPIS    HUMILIS 


CHAPTER    XXXI 


FERNS 

Ferns  are  among-  the  most  beautiful  of  all  plants. 
They  would  be  much  more  generally  cultivated  than 
they  are  at  present,  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  most 
persons  have  the  impression  that  they  cannot  be  grown 
successfully  in  the  window  garden.  This  impression 
is  not  a  correct  one>  for  many  varieties  of  them  are 
grown  there  and  well  grown.  Failure,  as  a  general 
thing,  comes  from  neglect  to  give  the  plants  proper 
attention  rather  than  from  their  inability,  or  their 
unwillingness  to  adapt  themselves  to  existing  condi- 
tions. While  it  is  advisable  to  select  the  stronger 
varieties  for  ordinary  cultivation,  I  would  advise  a  trial 
of  other  kinds,  even  the  finer  Adiantums,  because  I 
know  that  these  do  well  with  some  persons,  under 
conditions  not  generally  considered  favorable  to  them. 
This,  no  doubt,  because  these  persons  give  them  careful 
attention,  and  do  all  they  can  to  make  the  conditions 
under  which  they  are  grown  as  favorable  as  possible 
to  their  requirements.  They  are  unlike  other  plants 
in  their  habits  and  needs,  and  must  be  given  a  treat- 
ment suited  to  their  peculiarities.  This  done,  they  will 
be  found  much  more  tractable  than  many  other  plants 
seen  in  the  window  garden. 

For  use  in  jardinieres,  and  for  table  decoration, 
nothing  can  be  finer,  and  a  few  plants  should  always 
be  grown  to  furnish  greenery  to  accompany  flowers 
from  the  window  garden.  The  study  and  cultivation 
of  these  superbly  beautiful  plants  will  be  found 
extremely  fascinating — so  much  so  that  many  persons 
develop  into  "Fern  cranks" — and  those  who  achieve 


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success  in  their  culture  through  intelligent  treatment 
of  them  will  be  sure  to  become  the  owners  of  fine 
collections  made  up  of  the  leading  kinds,  for  success 
with  some  of  the  hardier  sorts,  at  first,  will  lead  to 
success  with  the  more  delicate  kinds  later  on.  The 
enthusiastic  amateur  will  never  be  satisfied  with  a  few 
varieties  when  he  finds  that  he  can  grow  an  extensive 
list  of  them. 

Ferns  like  a  rather  moist  atmosphere.  Of  course 
one  like  that  surrounding  them  in  their  native  habitat 
cannot  be  given  in  the  living  room,  but  the  prevailing 
dryness  of  the  air  in  such  rooms  can  be  modified  to 
a  considerable  extent  by  keeping  water  constantly 
evaporating  on  stoves,  registers  or  radiators.  Show- 
ering about  the  plants  will  also  be  found  of  great 
benefit  in  tempering  the  atmosphere.  It  is  a  very  good 
plan  to  keep  them  on  tables  covered  with  an  inch  or 
two  of  sand,  or  moss,  which  can  be  kept  quite  wet, 
thus  securing  a  steady  evaporation  among  the  plants. 
Some  sorts  are  not  averse  to  a  shower  bath,  but  others 
object  to  it.  If  showering  is  to  be  done,  let  it  be  in 
the  form  of  a  fine  spray — a  mist,  rather — and  do  not 
carry  it  to  such  an  extent  that  the  delicate  foliage  is 
heavily  saturated.  Keep  the  plants  out  of  the  sun. 
Drain  their  pots  perfectly.  This  is  of  great  importance. 
If  drainage  is  not  good,  there  is  great  danger  of 
souring  the  soil,  and  this  brings  on  weakness  and 
disease  of  the  roots.  If  drainage  is  what  it  ought  to 
be,  a  great  deal  of  water  can  be  used  without  running 
any  risk  of  injury,  because  all  that  the  soil  does  not 
need  passes  off  readily.  Never  allow  the  roots  to  get 
dry.  This  is  another  very  important  item.  Because 
light,  spongy  soil  is  generally  used  to  grow  them  in, 
evaporation  will  take  place  rapidly,  in  a  warm  room, 
careful  and  constant  watch  must  be  kept  of  them  and 
enough  water  be  given  to  keep  the  soil  always  moist. 


FERNS  151 

The  best  soil  for  Ferns  is  one  of  leaf  mold  and 
sand.  But  any  light,  spongy  soil  made  porous  and 
friable  with  sharp  sand  will  do  very  well  for  most 
varieties.  It  should  have  sponginess  enough  to  prevent 
it  from  becoming  hard  and  compact.  Turfy  matter, 
such  as  has  been  spoken  of  in  the  chapter  on  soils,  will 
supply  this  quality  if  leaf  mold  is  not  obtainable. 

The  species  and  varieties  described  below  will  be 
found  especially  desirable  for  the  window  garden. 

Alsophila  Australis — One  of  the  noblest  tree 
Ferns,  beautiful  in  all  stages  of  growth.  The  fronds 
spread  out  from  an  upright  trunk,  curving  gracefully, 
and  showing  delicate  contrasts  of  dark  and  glaucous 
green.  Care  must  be  taken  to  supply  water  liberally. 

Cibotium  Schiedei — Another  fine  tree  Fern,  with 
broad,  finely  cut  foliage.  One  of  the  most  graceful  of 
large-growing  Ferns,  particularly  well  adapted  to 
house  culture.  It  is  an  old  species,  but  very  rare, 
because  of  the  slowness  and  difficulty  with  which  it 
is  propagated.  The  person  who  is  willing  to  give 
proper  care  to  his  or  her  plants  will  find  this  Fern  a 
most  desirable  one  to  invest  in. 

Cyrtomium  falcatum — The  Holly  Fern.  A  charm- 
ing sort  for  house  culture.  Foliage  rich  dark  green, 
with  a  shining  luster,  as  if  varnished.  Excellent  for 
table  decoration,  while  young.  A  very  distinct  Fern. 

Davallia  stricta — One  of  the  old  "standbys." 
This  belongs  to  the  class  of  Hare-foot  Ferns,  so  called, 
because  they  spread  by  creeping  rhizomes  which  are 
supposed  to  have  some  resemblance  to  a  hare's  foot. 
The  foliage  is  lace-like  in  its  beauty  and  the  habit  of 
growth  very  graceful.  One  of  the  best,  for  general 
cultivation. 

Nephrolepsis  cordata  compacta — A  very  desir- 
able variety  of  the  Sword  Fern  genus,  because  of  its 
strong  growing  compact  habit,  Will  succeed  perfectly 


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in  the  living  room.  A  fine  plant  for  general  decorative 
purposes. 

Nephrolepsis  Davalliodes  furcans — A  beautiful 
variety  of  the  Sword  Fern,  with  crested  fronds. 
Excellent  for  house  culture. 

Nephrolepsis  exaltata  Bostoniensis — The  wonder- 
fully popular  "Boston  Fern"  (Fig  35).  One  of  the 
very  finest  plants  that  can  be  chosen  for  culture  in  the 


FIG    35 — THE    BOSTON    FERN 


window  garden.  Good  specimens  will  have  scores  of 
fronds  four  feet  in  length,  of  gracefully  spreading  and 
drooping  habit.  A  well-grown  plant  is  a  veritable 
fountain  of  foliage.  This  variety  should  be  included 
in  every  collection.  Charming  for  use  on  pedestals  or 
brackets,  and  equally  useful  in  large  hanging  pots, 
Anvone  can  °ro\v  it. 


FERNS  153 

Nephrolcpsis  Wittboldii — A  variety  of  very  recent 
introduction,  and  one  that  will  become  extremely  popu- 
lar as  soon  as  its  merits  are  more  generally  known.  It 
is  of  more  upright  habit  than  the  "Boston  Fern,"  from 
which  it  is  a  sport.  Its  fronds  are  wider  than  those 
of  that  variety.  The  edges  of  each  leaflet  are  crimped 
or  waved  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  it  entirely 
distinct  from  any  other  member  of  its  family.  The 
undulations  of  the  leaf  edges  give  it  a  most  charming 
appearance,  and  those  who  see  it  will  be  sure  to  want 
to  add  it  to  their  collection.  Because  of  its  upright 
habit,  it  has  more  dignity  than  the  Boston  Fern.  Its 
fronds  last  well  after  cutting,  and  are  therefore  very 
valuable  for  general  decorative  work.  A  variety  that 
cannot  be  too  highly  commended. 

Pteris  serrulata  cristata — A  variety  of  rather 
dwarf  habit.  Fine  for  cutting. 

Pteris  tremula — One  of  the  old  favorites.  Should 
be  in  all  collections. 

Pteris  tremula  Smithiana — A  variety  with  large, 
dark  green  fronds,  the  ends  of  the  pinnae  branching 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  give  them  the  appearance  of 
being  tasseled.  One  of  the  most  desirable  large- 
growing  kinds. 

Sitolobium  cicutarium — An  excellent  sort.  Very 
easy  to  grow.  Foliage  large  and  striking. 

Adiantum  cuneatum — The  popular  Maiden  Hair 
Fern.  Always  and  deservedly  a  favorite.  Easy  to 
grow  if  kept  moist  at  the  roots.  Beautiful  for  room 
decoration,  for  the  greenhouse  and  for  cutting.  Every 
collection  should  contain  at  least  one  plant  of  it. 

Adiantum  rhodophylhnn — A  variety  bearing  a 
close  resemblance  to  the  Farleyense  Fern,  which  many 
consider  the  finest  of  all  Ferns,  but  much  better 
adapted  to  general  culture.  Foliage  rich  and  heavy, 
of  clear,  bright  green.  A  magnificent  sort. 


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Adiantiim  fonnosum — Strong,  tall  grower. 
Makes  fine  specimen  plants. 

Adiantum  tenerum — A  most  desirable  variety  for 
growing  into  specimen  plants.  Foliage  delicate 
and  fine. 

Adiantum  gracillimum — The  daintiest  of  all  Ferns. 
Foliage  so  fine  as  to  give  the  plant  the  appearance 
of  being  covered  with  a  green  mist,  at  a  little  distance. 
Exquisite.  Though  extremely  delicate  in  general 
appearance  it  has  as  strong  a  constitution  as  any  of 
the  Adiantums. 

Aspidium  tenuissimum — A  charming  little  Fern 
for  growing  in  fern  dishes,  and  for  table  decoration. 

The  list  of  desirable  Ferns  might  be  extended  for 
pages.  I  have  made  special  mention  of  the  kinds 
described  above,  because  the  amateur  may  desire  some 
assistance  in  making  a  selection  of  those  best  adapted 
to  the  wants  of  the  beginner  in  Fern  culture.  Success 
with  the  above  will  enable  him  or  her  to  attempt  the 
culture  of  other  sorts  with  reasonable  certainty  of 
success.  I  would  most  urgently  advise  every  lover 
of  the  beautiful  in  decorative  plants  to  invest  in  at 
least  a  few  Ferns,  because  I  know  that  no  other  plant 
can  give  better  satisfaction. 


CHAPTER    XXXII 

MISCELLANEOUS      DECORATIVE      PLANTS 

Araucarias 

The  Araucaria  (Norfolk  Island  Pine)  is  fast 
becoming  a  favorite  with  all  who  grow  it.  It  is  so 
unlike  all  other  plants  in  general  cultivation  that  it 
forms  a  most  desirable  and  important  addition  to  all 
collections.  It  does  best  in  a  cool  room.  In  the 
ordinary  living  room  it  is  likely  to  become  infested 
with  red  spider  and  thrip.  These,  if  not  promptly 
checked,  so  affect  the  plant  that  it  loses  its  lower  tiers 
of  foliage,  thus  greatly  marring  the  beauty  and  sym- 
metry of  the  plant.  The  foliage  is  thick  and  heavy, 
like  that  of  most  evergreens,  and  the  branches  are  so 
densely  covered  with  it  that  they  form  excellent  quar- 
ters for  the  thrip  and  spider  to  hide  in.  Quite  often 
their  presence  is  not  suspected  until  the  foliage  turns 
yellow  and  begins  to  drop.  As  soon  as  either  of  these 
pests  is  discovered,  prepare  an  infusion  of  soap,  as 
directed  in  the  chapter  on  insecticides,  and  dip  the 
plant  in  it.  Shake  it  about  well,  while  in  the  bath,  to 
dislodge  as  many  of  the  insects  as  possible.  It  is 
a  good  plan  to  give  a  semi-monthly  or  a  weekly  bath 
of  this  kind  when  no  insects  are  to  be  found  on  the 
plant,  as,  by  so  doing,  it  is  often  possible  to  head 
them  off  and  prevent  them  from  getting  established. 

If  this  treatment  does  not  prove  entirely  satis- 
factory, use  lemon  oil,  or  fir-tree  oil,  prepared  and 
applied  acording  to  directions  on  the  can  containing  it. 

For  cool,  but  frost-proof  rooms,  this  plant  cannot 
be  too  highly  recommended.  Fine  specimens  are 
stately  ornaments  for  the  greenhouse,  and  will  be 


156 


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found  admirable  for  hall  use.  A.  excelsa  (Fig  36)  is 
the  leading  species,  because  it  was  first  introduced.  It 
is  therefore  better  known  than  A.  glauca  or  A.  robust  a 
compacta.  A.  glauca  has  foliage  of  a  rich  blue-green. 
A.  robust  a  compact  a  is  a  strong  grower  of  very  com- 
pact growth,  and  most  symmetrical  habit.  Its  heavily 


FIG    36 — ARAUCARIA    EXCELSA 

foliaged  branches  appear  to  be  covered  with  moss,  so 
thickly  set  are  they  with  the  rich,  deep  green  foliage. 
The  two  last  named  kinds  have  been  very  high-priced, 
until  within  a  few  years,  because  of  their  scarcity,  but 
they  are  now  grown  in  large  quantities,  and  very  fine 
specimens  can  be  bought  for  a  reasonable  sum. 


MISCELLANEOUS      DECORATIVE      PLANTS  157 

Ar  alias 

Aralia  Sieboldi  is  an  excellent  house  plant,  with 
large,  thick,  shining  foliage.  A  popular  rival  of  the 
Ficus  or  Rubber  Plant.  Very  easy  to  grow  into  fine, 
stately  specimen  plants,  and  useful  in  hall  or  parlor 
decoration.  Used  in  immense  quantities  in  Europe 
for  decorative  purposes,  but  little  known  here  as  yet. 
This  plant  will,  I  predict,  be  extremely  popular  as 
soon  as  the  public  becomes  familiar  with  its  many 
merits.  A.  Sieboldi  variegata  is  a  variety  of  the  above 
having  foliage  richly  variegated  with  creamy  white. 
Beautiful. 

The    Ardisia 

Ardisia  crenulata — A  plant  of  medium  size,  with 
rich,  dark,  shining  evergreen  foliage,  bearing  clusters 
of  bright  red  berries.  Excellent  for  table  decoration, 
where  the  fruit  is  quite  as  effective  as  flowers.  Plants 
can  be  summered  by  plunging  the  pot  to  its  rim  in  a 
shaded  place. 

The    Aspidistra 

Aspidistra  lurida — One  of  the  toughest  of  all 
plants.  Will  grow  any  and  everywhere,  under  the 
most  unfavorable  conditions.  Can  stand  anything  but 
absolute  dryness  at  its  roots  and  freezing  temperature. 
Foliage  long  and  broad,  of  thick,  leathery  texture, 
each  leaf  being  thrown  up  from  the  root,  as  there  are 
no  branches.  Adapted  to  cool,  poorly-lighted  rooms. 
Seldom  attacked  by  any  insect.  Used  in  enormous 
quantities  on  the  Continent,  because  of  its  hardiness, 
and  its  ability  to  adapt  itself  to  places  where  no 
other  plant  would  grow.  Cannot  be  too  highly  recom- 
mended. Because  it  will  flourish  under  neglect  is  no 
reason  why  it  should  be  neglected.  If  it  is  well  cared 


15&  HOME    FLORICULTURE 

for  it  will  show  its  gratitude  by  richness  and  vigor  of 
foliage,  and  prove  its  right  to  a  place  in  the  list  of  our 
best  decorative  plants. 

A.  lurida  variegata  (Fig  37) — A  beautiful  form 
of  the  above,  with  foliage  striped  with  yellow  and 


FIG  37 — ASPIDISTRA  LURIDA  VARIEGATA 


white.  Some  leaves  will  be  half  green,  others  nearly 
all  light  colored,  while  many  will  be  marked  with 
narrow  stripes  of  yellow  or  white  in  a  most  picturesque 
fashion.  Quite  as  desirable  as  the  type. 


MISCELLANEOUS      DECORATIVE      PLANTS  igc) 

Anthericum 

This  is  an  excellent  plant  for  vases  or  window 
boxes.  Of  easy  culture.  Foliage  resembles  the  old- 
fashioned  "Striped  Grass,"  often  seen  in  old  gardens. 
There  are  two  varieties,  A.  variegata  having  green 
leaves  edged  with  white,  while  A.  variegata  picturatum 
has  a  white  center  and  green  edge.  Fine  for  hang- 
ing pots. 

Asparagus 

Asparagus  Sprengeri  (Fig  38) — One  of  our  very 
best  drooping  or  trailing  plants.  Easy  to  grow  and 
always  beautiful  because  of  the  profusion  of  its  long 
branches,  thickly  set  with  dark  green  foliage,  giving 
the  plant  an  airy,  feathery  appearance  which  has  led 
to  its  popular  name  of  "Emerald  Feather."  Few 
plants  last  as  this  does,  when  cut.  Branches  can  be 
kept  fresh  for  weeks.  Not  only  beautiful  in  itself, 
but  very  useful  for  combining  with  other  plants. 
Especially  valuable  for  room  decoration,  on  mantels, 
brackets  and  other  elevated  positions  where  its  droop- 
ing habit  can  be  displayed  to  good  advantage.  Excel- 
lent for  hanging  baskets.  Does  well  in  any  good  soil. 
Likes  a  shady  place,  and  considerable  water,  and  will 
be  grateful  for  a  daily  showering.  One  of  the  most 
valuable  plants  of  recent  introduction.  It  cannot  be 
recommended  too  highly. 

A.  plmnosus  nanus — A  variety  with  dainty,  deli- 
cate foliage  which  lasts  for  a  long  time  when  cut. 
Rapidly  taking  the  place  of  Smilax  in  decorations.  A 
charming  plant.  Likes  a  rather  sandy  soil. 

A.  plumosus  tenuissimus — A  variety  with 
extremely  fine,  feathery  foliage.  Of  climbing  habit. 
Has  all  the  lasting  qualities  of  the  other  varieties 
described.  Exquisite  for  use  with  fine  cut  flowers. 


FIG   38 — ASPARAGUS    SPRENGERI 


MISCELLANEOUS      DECORATIVE      PLANTS  l6l 

The    Sago    Palm 

Cycas  revoluta — The  Sago  Palm.  A  stately  plant 
that  always  challenges  admiration  because  of  its  noble 
habit  and  peculiar  foliage,  which  is  of  thick,  heavy 
texture,  therefore  able  to  resist  dust  and  other  draw- 
backs which  most  decorative  plants  are  subjected  to. 
Well  adapted  to  use  in  a  cool,  shady  room.  A 
grand  plant. 

The    Umbrella  Plant 

Cyperus  altcrnifolius — The  Umbrella  Plant.  One 
of  our  best  plants  for  growing  in  aquariums  and  vases 
of  water.  Of  easy  culture.  C.  variegatus  has  foliage 
marked  with  yellowish-white. 

Dracaenas 

These  plants  are  of  great  and  varied  beauty. 
Many  of  them  are  well  adapted  to  sitting  room  culture. 
They  have  a  peculiarly  elegant  and  attractive  habit  of 
growth,  and  will  be  found  very  useful,  either  as  single 
specimens  or  for  combination  with  other  plants  of 
decorative  character.  The  following  kinds  are  espe- 
cially recommended : 

Amabilis — Foliage  green,  white  and  rosy  violet. 

Bruanti — Foliage  heavy.  Dark  green.  A  good 
plant  for  the  living  room. 

Fragrans — A  fine  species  from  Africa.  Large, 
luxuriant  foliage.  A  great  favorite. 

Imperialis — Foliage  green,  marked  with  rose. 

Indivisa — Foliage  long  and  narrow,  gracefully 
curved.  One  of  our  standard  plants  for  the  center 
of  vases.  Fine  for  jardinere  use. 

Lindeni — Foliage  broad  and  undulated,  with  rich 
yellow  striping  on  a  bright  green  ground. 


l62  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

Massangeana — A  form  of  the  above,  with  the 
variegation  confined  to  the  center  of  the  leaf. 

Sanderiana — Small  foliage,  heavily  marked  with 
white. 

Terminals — Foliage  of  various  shades  of  red  and 
rose,  marked  with  white. 

Brasiliensis  (Fig  39) — Exceedingly  handsome 
for  the  center  of  a  vase  or  stand,  forming  a  beau- 
tiful object. 


FIG    39 — DRACAENA    BRASILIENSIS 

The    Rubber    Plant 

Ficus  elastica — The  Rubber  Plant  (Fig  40). 
Probably  more  popular  than  any  other  decorative  plant 
except  the  Palm.  Its  large,  heavy,  shining  foliage 
is  very  attractive,  and  because  of  its  thick,  leathery 
texture  it  is  able  to  stand  the  effects  of  dust  and  dry 
air  better  than  almost  any  other  plant.  Of  the  easiest 
culture.  Care  should  be  taken  to  keep  it  free  from 


FIG   40 — FICUS   ELASTICA 


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scale  and  fungous  diseases.  Should  these  attack  it, 
apply  the  remedies  advised  in  the  chapter  on  insecti- 
cides. An  excellent  plant  for  use  in  halls  and  the 
corner  of  rooms  where  a  plant  of  tall  and  stately 
appearance  is  desired. 

F.  variegata  is  a  superb  variety  having  broad 
markings  of  creamy  white  on  a  dark  green  ground. 
Unfortunately,  this  variety  is  frequently  subject  to  a 
fungous  disease,  but  the  weekly  application  of  Cop- 
perdine  should  keep  it  in  health. 

F.  repens  is  a  creeping,  climbing  species  with 
small  foliage.  Fine  for  baskets,  or  growing  about 
Palms  or  other  plants  to  furnish  a  covering  for 
the  soil. 

Farfugium 

Farfugium  grande — The  Leopard  Plant.  Foliage 
of  thick,  firm  texture,  nearly  circular  in  shape,  very 
dark  green,  heavily  spotted  with  clear  yellow.  Fine 
plant  for  jardinieres.  Large  specimens  are  very  orna- 
mental. Give  plenty  of  water  and  keep  out  of  the  sun. 

The   Screw   Pine 

Pandanus  utilis — Screw  Pine  (Fig  41).  Fine 
plant  for  use  in  vases,  as  a  centerpiece.  Foliage  long, 
narrow  and  recurved,  with  sharp,  needle-like  spines 
all  along  the  edge.  The  leaves  are  produced  spirally 
along  the  stalk,  hence  the  popular  name  of  the  plant. 
Leaves  green,  marked  with  red. 

P.  Veitchii — A  species  having  foliage  striped 
with  white.  A  most  attractive  plant.  These  plants 
should  have  a  warm  place  in  winter,  and  must 
be  watered  moderately  at  that  season,  as  they  are 
easily  injured  by  too  much  moisture  at  their  roots. 


MISCELLANEOUS      DECORATIVE      PLANTS  10$ 

Nezv.  Zealand   Flax 

Phormium  tenax — New  Zealand  Flax.  Long, 
stiff  foliage  like  that  of  the  Swamp  Flag.  P.  variega- 
tum  is  striped  with  pale  yellow  and  white.  Both  fine 
plants  for  vases  in  summer. 


FIG   41 — THE    SCREW    PINE 

Vriesia 

Vriesia  s  pi  end  ens — A  most  peculiar  plant,  with 
broad,  thick  foliage  of  light  green,  with  brown  bars 
across  the  leaf.  Flowers  yellow,  set  in  bracts  of  rich 
scarlet,  which  retain  their  color  for  a  long  time.  A 
very  striking  plant  in  all  ways,  and  one  well  adapted  to 
culture  in  a  dry  atmosphere. 


l66  HOME-     FLORICULTURE 

The    Silk    Oak 

Grevillea  robust  a — A  very  beautiful  plant,  with 
large,  spreading  foliage  almost  as  finely  cut  as  that  of 
some  of  the  Ferns.  It  is  often  attacked  by  red  spider 
and  thrip,  but  these  can  be  controlled  by  the  use  of 
insecticides  heretofore  advised.  The  plant  is  of  rapid 
growth,  and  soon  becomes  quite  a  tree.  Young  plants 
are  valuable  for  table  decoration. 

Rex    Begonias 

Begonia  rex — We  have  few  plants  more  beautiful 
in  coloring  than  these.  Their  large,  rich  foliage,  in 
which  green  of  all  shades  is  blended  with  silver,  bronze 
and  red  and  purple,  makes  them  wonderfully  attrac- 
tive. In  some  varieties,  the  entire  leaf  seems  overlaid 
with  metallic  colors  having  a  satiny  luster  indescrib- 
ably charming.  In  others  the  variegation  is  disposed 
in  bands  and  blotches  of  rich  colors  on  a  ground  of 
green,  while  some  sorts  seem  powdered  with  silver 
dust  through  which  tints  of  plum  and  purple  show 
with  delicate  effect.  A  well-grown  plant  is  always 
sure  to  attract  and  fascinate  the  lover  of  beautifully 
colored  foliage. 

These  Begonias  can  be  grown  in  the  living  room 
if  care  is  taken  to  keep  the  soil  moist  only — never  wet 
— and  they  are  not  given  large  pots  while  young. 
They  have  small  roots,  and  do  not  require  much  pot 
room  during  the  first  year.  Do  not  give  them  sunshine 
and  never  shower  the  foliage.  To  keep  them  clean, 
cover  with  papers  or  a  thin  cloth,  when  sweeping  and 
dusting.  If  mealy  bugs  attack  them,  remove  with  a 
soft  brush.  Cut  away  all  buds  that  form,  as  soon 
as  seen,  to  throw  all  the  strength  of  the  plant  into  the 
production  of  foliage.  Some  persons  are  not  success- 
ful with  these  Begonias  in  the  window  garden,  while 


MISCELLANEOUS      DECORATIVE      PLANTS  167 

others  consider  them  very  satisfactory  there.  Prob- 
ably because  they  have  studied  their  habits  and  give 
them  the  treatment  they  demand.  I  would  advise 
all  lovers  of  beautiful  plants  to  give  them  a  trial  before 
deciding  that  they  cannot  grow  them.  They  should 
have  a  light,  spongy,  porous  soil  in  which  considerable 
sharp  sand  has  been  mixed,  and  the  very  best  of 
drainage. 

Flowering  Begonias  with  Fine  Foliage 

B.  argentea  guttata  is  of  sturdy,  upright  growth, 
with  foliage  of  rich  bronze  green,  thickly  spotted  with 
silver.  Its  flowers  are  a  soft,  pearly  flesh  color,  borne 
in  drooping  panicles.  Very  fine  both  as  a  flowering 
and  as  a  decorative  foliage  plant.  Of  the  easiest 
culture. 

B.  alba  picta — Foliage  bright  green,  spotted  with 
white. 

B.  metallica — Hairy  foliage,  bronze  green,  with 
coppery  luster  on  upper  surface.  Veins  dark  red, 
showing  through  the  leaf.  A  strong-growing  kind, 
making  a  very  attractive  specimen  plant. 

B.  manicata  aurea  variegata — A  beautiful  variety, 
of  spreading  habit,  with  large,  thick,  waxen  foliage 
of  a  rich,  shining  green,  irregularly  blotched  with 
cream,  clear  yellow  and  rose.  A  superb  plant  for  a 
large  vase.  One  of  the  best  Begonias  for  general  cul- 
tivation. A  fine  plant  for  jardiniere  use. 

Geraniums  with  Attractive  Foliage 

Madam  Salleroi — An  always  satisfactory  and 
always  useful  variety.  Habit  bushy  and  compact. 
Seldom  grows  to  be  more  than  eight  inches  or  a  foot 
high.  Always  symmetrical.  Never  requires  pruning. 
Foliage  borne  in  such  quantities  that  the  plant  and  pot 


l68  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

are  covered  with  a  mass  of  green  and  white.  One  of 
our  most  useful  plants  for  "filling  in,"  either  in  the 
greenhouse,  the  window  garden  or  in  room  decoration. 

Happy  Thought — Foliage  green  with  a  yellow 
blotch  in  center  of  leaf.  Showy  and  easy  to  grow. 

McMahon — Foliage  yellowish-green,  with  dark 
bronze  zone.  Must  be  given  strong  sunshine  to  bring 
out  the  coloring  well.  Fine  for  greenhouse  use,  if 
given  a  place  near  the  glass.  Equally  as  fine  for  the 
window  garden  if  it  can  have  sufficient  sunshine.  Of 
little  value  in  a  shady  location. 

Flaming    Star 

Poinsettia — A  tropical  plant  of  great  beauty.  The 
flowers,  which  are  small  and  insignificant,  are  sur- 
rounded by  bracts  of  the  most  intense  scarlet,  which 
last  for  a  long  time.  It  can  be  grown  to  the  best 
advantage  in  sandy  soil.  Keep  rather  dry  during 
summer.  Repot  in  September,  and  keep  growing  well 
thereafter.  If  given  a  warm  place  and  a  moist  atmos- 
phere, it  should  come  into  bloom  in  January.  Shower 
well  to  keep  red  spider  down.  Give  plenty  of  sunshine 
to  bring  out  the  gorgeous  coloring  of  the  bracts. 
Immediately  after  flowering,  let  the  plant  dry  off. 
It  does  not  matter  if  it  sheds  its  foliage  at  this  time. 
A  magnificent  plant  for  the  decoration  of  the 
greenhouse. 

Smilax 

Smilax  is  a  good  plant  for  the  window  garden 
if  given  the  right  kind  of  treatment.  It  should  have 
a  rich,  light,  sandy  soil.  When  growth  sets  in,  give 
plenty  of  water.  Shower  often  to  prevent  the  red 
spider  from  injuring  it.  After  it  has  completed  its 
growing  period,  the  leaves  will  begin  to  turn  yellow. 


MISCELLANEOUS     DECORATIVE      PLANTS  169 

This  indicates  a  desire  to  rest.  Cut  off  the  top  and 
withhold  water  for  two  months.  Then  shake  the 
roots  out  of  the  old  soil,  repot,  give  more  water  and 
it  will  soon  begin  to  grow  again.  As  growth  becomes 
active,  give  plenty  of  fertilizer.  A  very  useful  plant 
for  cutting  for  decorative  purposes,  as  it  lasts  well. 

Abutilons   with   Attractive   Foliage 

The  flowering  varieties  of  this  plant  are  better 
known  than  the  sorts  having  variegated  foliage.  But 
there  are  several  varieties  whose  foliage  is  quite  as 
fine  as  that  of  most  plants  described  in  these  chapters. 
Souvenir  de  Bonn  is  a  strong,  upright-growing  kind, 
having  large  leaves  of  a  light  green,  edged  with  white. 
Savitzi  is  more  bushy  and  compact.  Its  foliage  has  a 
variegation  of  creamy  white,  the  two  colors  being 
about  equally  divided  on  each  leaf.  Eclipse  is  of 
drooping  habit,  and  is  fine  for  growing  on  brackets. 
Its  leaves  are  long  and  pointed,  and  have  a  mosaic-like 
variegation  of  yellow  on  a  green  ground.  A.  Thomp- 
soni  is  of  sturdy,  upright  growth  and  has  a  variegation 
similar  to  that  of  Eclipse,  but  its  leaves  are  broad 
and  large. 


CHAPTER    XXXIII 

VINES     FOR     HOUSE     CULTURE 

The    Hoya 

Hoya  carnosa,  more  commonly  known  as  Wax 
Plant,  is  a  very  good  plant  for  cultivation  in  the 
sitting  room,  because,  on  account  of  the  thick  and 
leathery  texture  of  its  leaves,  it  is  able  to  withstand 
the  effects  of  dust  and  dry  air  better  than  most  plants. 
It  is  also  very  fond  of  warmth,  and  therefore  it  can 
be  trained  about  the  upper  part  of  a  window,  where 
it  will  flourish,  while  almost  any  other  plant  except 
the  English  Ivy  would  prove  a  failure  there.  It  is  a 
rapid  grower  when  once  it  gets  a  start,  but  it  must 
be  given  time  to  get  well  established  before  much  in 
the  way  of  growth  can  be  expected  from  it.  I  often 
receive  letters  from  parties  who  have  owned  plants 
of  the  Hoya  for  several  years,  during  all  of  which 
time  they  have  seemed  to  stand  still.  In  most  cases 
I  have  satisfied  myself,  on  inquiry,  that  the  likings 
of  the  plant  as  to  soil,  location  and  care  had  not  been 
given  proper  consideration,  and  it  had  not  become 
thoroughly  established.  It  lived,  and  put  forth  a 
few  leaves,  now  and  then,  but  it  had  no  encouragement 
to  make  vigorous 'growth.  I  have  always  advised  a 
treatment  like  that  outlined  below,  and  in  most  cases 
the  result  has  been  all  that  was  desired. 

The  Hoya  has  very  dark,  heavy  foliage.  It 
often  grows  to  be  twenty  or  more  feet  in  length. 
Its  flowers  are  produced  at  the  junction  of  leaf  and 
stem,  and  are  in  drooping  clusters  of  about  the  size 
and  shape  of  the  Verbena.  They  are  flesh-colored,  with 
a  brown,  star-shaped  protuberance  in  the  center.  They 


VINES     FOR     HOUSE     CULTURE  17! 

have  a  very  pleasing  fragrance.  While  not  showy, 
they  are  very  beautiful,  and  as  they  are  freely  produced 
and  last  a  long  time,  the  plant  is  sure  to  be  popular 
when  it  is  treated  in  such  a  manner  as  to  bring  about 
good  results.  The  new  branches  make  a  very  rapid 
growth,  and  often  reach  a  length  of  four  or  five  feet 
without  developing  foliage.  They  look  more  like  large, 
elongated  and  uncurled  tendrils  than  anything  else. 
After  a  little  the  leaves  develop.  The  first  sign  of 
flowering  is  a  little  brown  stem,  which  seems  to  be 
nothing  more.  This,  as  I  have  said,  appears  at  the 
junction  of  the  leaf  stalk  and  vine.  By  and  by  you 
will  notice  that  the  end  of  the  stem  seems  to  be 
dividing,  and  a  close  examination  will  satisfy  you 
that  the  divisions  are  rudimentary  buds.  These  develop 
slowly,  and  finally  become  flowers.  You  must  not 
remove  these  "stems"  after  the  flowers  have  withered 
and  fallen  from  them,  for  next  season  new  flowers 
will  be  produced  on  them.  Therefore  in  cutting  off 
any  of  them  you  are  destroying  a  future  crop,  or 
crops,  of  flowers. 

The  Hoya  likes  a  soil  made  up  of  peat,  loam  and 
sand  in  equal  parts.  It  does  not  require  much  moist- 
ure at  the  roots.  It  has  but  few  roots,  therefore  does 
not  require  a  large  pot.  If  liquid  manure  is  given  at 
flowering  time  the  size  of  the  flowers  will  be  increased. 
The  only  insect  I  have  ever  known  it  to  be  troubled 
by  is  the  mealy  bug.  To  drive  this  away,  apply  the 
emulsion  of  kerosene,  prepared  as  directed  in  a 
former  chapter. 

The    Coboea 

This  is  an  excellent  vine  for  training  about  the 
arch  and  ceiling  of  a  bay  window.  It  is  a  very  rapid 
grower,  often  making  twenty  feet  in  a  season.  The 
most  attractive  variety  is  C.  variegata,  having  leaves 


172 


-HOME      FLORICULTURE 


prettily  marbled  with  cream  color.  It  has  a  large, 
bell-shaped  flower  of  a  peculiar  greenish-blue.  It  grows 
well  in  ordinary  soil,  and  requires  only  a  moderate 
amount  of  moisture.  It  must  be  given  a  good-sized 
pot  to  insure  proper  development. 


FIG    42 — ARTISTICALLY    ARRANGED    BAY    WINDOW 

The    Passion    Flower 

Of  late,  this  class  of  flowers  has  become  very 
popular.  Some  years  ago  a  white  variety,  called  Con- 
stance Eliott,  was  introduced,  and  attractively  illus- 
trated in  most  of  the  florists'  catalogs,  and  the 
advertisement  thus  given  this  particular  variety  of 
the  Passiflora  family  has  resulted  in  an  increased 
demand  for  most  other  varieties.  They  are  all  rapid 
growers,  with  large  and  attractive  foliage.  I  do  not 


VINES      FOR      HOUSE      CULTURE  173 

think  many  plants  bloom  much  the  first  season,  but  if 
given  good  care  and  plenty  of  root  room  they  bloom 
profusely  the  second  year.  They  like  a  rich  loam,  with 
weekly  applications  of  manure  water.  They  must  be 
given  a  large  tub  or  box  to  grow  in.  If  kept  in  too 
small  a  pot  the  leaves  will  often  turn  yellow  and  fall 
quite  suddenly.  Constance  Eliott  has  large  flowers 
of  a  greenish-white.  Before  expanding  fully  they 
resemble  a  Pond  Lily  bud.  P.  coerulea  is  blue.  The 
latest  variety  is  Eynsford  Gem,  of  a  beautiful,  bright 
rosy-purple.  In  constancy  of  flowering  it  seems  supe- 
rior to  any  other  variety.  This  plant,  like  the  Coboea, 
is  very  effective  when  trained  about  the  arch  of  a 
bay  window,  where  it  can  be  allowed  to  droop  and 
festoon  itself  after  its  own  ideas  of  what  is  graceful 
and  pleasing.  Such  a  window  intertwined  with 
Passiflora,  Coboea,  Hoya  and  other  vines  is  shown  in 
Fig  42. 

The  Solanum 

Solanum  jasminoides  is  one  of  the  prettiest  of  all 
small  climbers.  It  has  pleasing  foliage,  and  produces 
great  quantities  of  star-shaped  flowers,  white,  faintly 
tinged  with  pearly  lilac.  It  grows  to  be  ten  or  twelve 
feet  high,  branching  freely.  I  consider  it  one  of  the 
best  flowering  climbing  plants  for  the  house.  It 
requires  the  same  treatment  as  the  Passion  Flower. 
It  is  much  more  satisfactory  than  that  plant  for  the 
ordinary  window,  because  it  is  a  less  rampant  grower 
and  does  not  ask  for  a  large  pot. 

The   English   Ivy 

Of  all  vines  for  house  culture  there  is  none  that 
excels,  or  equals,  this.  It  is  the  vine  par  excellence  of 
all  vines  for  the  sitting  room.  It  grows  vigorously 
when  once  established,  branches  freely,  stands  dust, 


174  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

dry,  hot  air,  and  frequent  changes  of  temperature,  can 
be  trained  in  the  shade,  where  it  flourishes  better  than 
in  the  sun,  and  has  rich  and  beautiful  foliage,  which 
only  requires  an  occasional  washing  to  look  "as  good 
as  new,"  and,  like  good  wine,  the  plant  becomes  better 
with  age,  if  well  treated.  Truly  an  attractive  list  of 
good  qualities,  and  one  which  ought  to  make  any 
plant  popular. 

It  requires  ordinary  soil.  It  should  be  well 
drained.  Give  only  enough  water  to  keep  the  soil 
moist.  Apply  liquid  manure  once  a  week,  or  once  a 
month  dig  a  spoonful  of  bone  meal  into  the  soil  about 
the  roots.  Keep  the  foliage  clean.  Unless  washed 
occasionally  the  scale  may  take  possession  of  it,  and 
when  this  happens  you  will  find  it  a  difficult  matter  to 
get  the  plant  clean.  It  is  better  to  go  on  the  "ounce 
of  prevention"  plan  and  get  a  start  of  the  scale  by 
frequent  scrubbings  of  the  stalks  and  washings  of 
the  leaves  in  soapsuds. 

This  is  the  only  vine  I  know  of  which  can  be 
trained  about  the  room,  away  from  direct  light,  with- 
out serious  injury  to  its  foliage.  It  never  seems  to 
care  for  sunlight.  Its  leaves  take  on  a  rich  color  in 
complete  shade.  An  old  plant,  with  vigorous  branches, 
well  leaved,  is  a  constant  source  of  pleasure  because 
of  its  cheerful,  sturdy  look,  and  the  beauty  and  grace 
of  its  foliage  and  habit  of  growth.  It  is  charming 
to  train  about  pictures,  or  the  mirror,  or  around 
brackets  holding  statuary.  The  aim  should  always  be 
to  keep  it  in  a  condition  of  vigorous  health,  for  if 
disease  sets  in  it  may  lose  many  of  its  leaves  before 
recovery  is  brought  about,  and  long,  naked  branches 
spoil  its  pleasing  effect.  It  likes  a  good  deal  of  water 
on  its  foliage,  and  it  must  be  kept  clean  if  you  want 
its  charming  masses  of  rich,  dark  leaves  to  show  well 
against  the  background  of  wall  or  curtain.  If  properly 


VINES      FOR      HOUSE      CULTURE 


175 


treated,  it  will  make  a  growth  of  five  or  eight  feet 
in  a  season,  and  in  a  few  years  you  will  have  a  sturdy 
old  plant  which  will  seem  quite  like  one  of  the  family. 
It  can  be  trained  on  racks  or  trellises,  but  much  of  its 
pleasing  effect  is  lost  when  it  is  forced  to  confine  itself 
to  definite  and  regular  limits.  It  should  be  allowed  to 
reach  out  in  all  directions,  at  its  own  pleasure,  and  then 
it  will  never  be  anything  but  graceful. 


FIG   43 — GERMAN    IVY   AND   FERN   BASKET 

Senecio 

Senecio — better  known  as  German  Ivy,  though  it 
is  not  even  a  distant  relative  of  the  Ivy  family — is  an 
excellent  vine  for  summer  use,  because  of  its  great 


176  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

rapidity  of  growth.  Planted  about  the  veranda  or  at 
the  window,  in  boxes,  it  will  soon  climb  to  the  top  of 
whatever  support  is  given  it,  and  droop  in  most 
graceful  profusion  therefrom.  It  grows  easily  from 
cuttings,  stuck  in  ordinary  soil,  and  one  small  plant, 
cut  into  two  and  three-inch  lengths,  with  an  "eye" 
beneath  the  soil,  and  another  above  it,  will  furnish  all 
the  plants  one  would  care  to  make  use  of.  As  a  window 
box  or  basket  plant  (Fig  43)  it  is  especially  valuable 
from  its  ability  to  climb,  or  its  willingness  to  droop. 
It  can  be  made  to  take  on  a  bushy  growth  by  pinching 
off  the  ends  of  the  branches,  and  with  this  training 
it  makes  an  extremely  valuable  plant  for  covering 
window  and  veranda  boxes. 

Madeira    Vine 

This  is  another  rapid  growing  vine  which  will  be 
found  very  useful  for  window  or  veranda  box  culture. 
Its  foliage  is  heart-shaped,  of  a  rich  green  in  color,  with 
a  lustrous  surface  that  makes  it  always  attractive.  It 
is  grown  from  tubers.  Give  it  a  rich,  light,  sandy  soil 
and  plenty  of  water,  and  it  will  make  a  wonderful 
growth  in  a  short  time. 

Thunbergia 

This  is  a  very  pretty  flowering  vine  which  can  be 
used  as  a  screen,  or  for  baskets.  Its  flowers  are  shaped 
something  like  those  of  the  Gloxinia,  and  are  blue,  or 
blue  and  white.  It  can  be  grown  from  seed  or  from 
cuttings. 

Asparagus    Sprengeri 

This  is  a  comparatively  new  plant,  but  it  has 
proved  its  claim  to  extraordinary  merit,  and  no  collec- 
tion can  be  considered  complete  without  it.  As  a 


VINES      FOR      HOUSE      CULTURE  177 

basket  plant  it  is  unexcelled.  Its  long  branches  are 
excellent  for  cutting,  as  they  last  for  weeks,  if  the 
water  in  which  they  are  placed  is  frequently  changed. 
For  room  decoration,  it  is  second  to  no  plant.  It 
will  be  found  described  at  greater  length  in  the  chap- 
ter on  Miscellaneous  Decorative  Plants. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV 

BASKET    PLANTS 

The    Lobelia 

This  is  a  most  charming  plant  for  a  basket.  L. 
erinus  compacta  has  rich  blue  flowers,  small,  it  is  true, 
but  borne  in  such  profusion  that  the  plant  seems  cov- 
ered with  a  summer  cloud.  L.  erinus  alba  is  similar  in 
habit,  but  pure  white  in  color.  If  these  two  are  grown 
together  the  effect  is  very  fine.  I  know  of  no  more 
delicate  flowering  plant  for  basket  use  than  this.  It 
blooms  during  the  greater  part  of  the  season  if  sown 
in  May.  For  winter  use,  sow  in  November.  Prevent 
the  formation  of  seed  as  much  as  possible,  if  you 
would  have  the  greatest  possible  number  of  flowers. 
Shower  well  daily,  to  keep  the  red  spider  down.  Give 
a  shady  place. 

The    Othonna 

Othonna  crassifolia  is  one  of  those  cheerful  look- 
ing plants  which  always  win  your  friendship  as  well  as 
your  admiration.  It  has  thick,  round  foliage,  which, 
from  its  peculiar  shape,  has  given  it  the  name  of  Pickle 
Plant  in  some  sections  of  the  country.  It  is  a  dense 
grower,  completely  covering  the  basket  with  its  droop- 
ing stems  in  a  short  time.  It  has  bright  yellow  flowers, 
very  much  like  a  small,  single  Dandelion,  and  quite  as 
cheerful  in  appearance.  In  order  to  secure  these 
flowers  in  profusion  you  must  give  the  plant  plenty  of 
sunshine.  This  furnished,  there  will  be  a  score  of  them 
out  every  day.  Indeed  the  plant  will  seem  to  be 
covered  with  little  stars.  It  is  one  of  the  easiest  of  all 
plants  to  grow.  Any  little  piece  of  vine  will  take  root, 


BASKET      PLANTS  179 

and  soon  become  a  thrifty  plant.  On  account  of  the 
succulent  nature  of  its  foliage  it  is  able  to  withstand 
quite  a  drouth.  But  because  it  can  stand  a  good  deal 
of  neglect  as  regards  watering,  don't  test  its  capacities 
in  this  direction. 

The    Tradescantia 

The  Tradescantia,  or  Wandering  Jew,  is  quite  a 
popular  basket  plant.  It  will  stand  more  abuse  and 
look  cheerful  and  even  happy  under  it,  than  any  other 
plant  I  know  of.  It  is  rather  a  straggling  grower  if 
left  to  follow  out  its  own  inclinations.  Therefore,  in 
order  to  make  it  satisfactory  for  basket  use  it  must  be 
pinched  back  severely  at  first  to  force  it  to  branch 
freely.  Pinch  it  in,  and  keep  it  pinched  in,  until  there 
are  branches  enough  to  furnish  plenty  of  foliage  to 
cover  whatever  it  grows  in.  It  must  not  be  given  a  rich 
soil,  for  that  favors  the  production  of  stalks  with  long 
joints  between  the  leaves.  In  a  poorer  soil  the  joints 
.will  be  close  together  and  the  foliage  quite  as  satisfac- 
tory. T.  zebrina  has  dark  green  leaves  with  a  metallic 
luster  and  silvery  bands  running  down  them.  T.  multi- 
color has  foliage  of  a  lighter  green,  striped  with  white 
and  pink.  Break  off  a  piece  of  the  vine  and  throw  it 
down  where  it  can  come  in  contact  with  the  soil  and 
it  will  be  sure  to  grow. 

The   Saxifrage    (Saxifraga   sarmentosa) 

This  is  a  very  pretty  basket  plant  (Fig  44).  It 
has  leaves  shaped  something  like  those  of  the  zonale 
Geranium,  of  a  reddish-olive  color,  veined  with  white. 
There  will  be  a  tuft  of  foliage  at  the  end  of  a  vine, 
much  after  the  style  of  growth  of  a  Strawberry  plant 
with  runners ;  at  this  tuft  other  runners  will  be  sent 
out,  each  of  which  will  terminate  in  a  tuft  of  foliage, 
and  in  this  manner  the  plant  keeps  on  enlarging  until 


TK   44 — SAXIFRAGA    SARMENfOSA 


BASKET      PLANTS  l8l 

it  covers  a  basket  with  its  thread-like  vines  and  pretty 
clusters  of  leaves.  Give  it  ordinary  soil,  moderate 
amount  of  water,  and  shade. 

The    Vine  a 

The  Vinca  is  a  fine  drooping  plant,  having  rich, 
smooth  foliage  of  a  bright,  shining  green.  V.  Harri- 
sonii  has  a  leaf  blotched  with  white  and  pale  green  in 
the  center.  V.  major  variegata  has  a  leaf  edged  with 
white.  All  varieties  have  a  pretty,  light  blue  flower. 

Sweet  Alyssum 

This  is  a  pretty  annual,  having  a  great  profusion 
of  small  white  flowers,  which  are  very  fragrant.  It  is 
an  excellent  basket  plant  for  winter,  if  sown  late  in 
the  season.  It  is  very  fine  for  cutting. 

The  Linaria 

Linaria  cymbalaria,  known  in  some  localities  as 
Kenilworth  Ivy  and  in  others  as  Coliseum  Ivy,  is  a 
pretty  basket  plant,  sending  out  a  great  profusion  of 
slender  branches,  thickly  set  with  small  foliage.  Of 
easiest  cultivation. 

Moneywort 

This  is  a  well-known  old  basket  plant,  having 
pretty  green  foliage  and  bright  yellow  flowers.  It 
sends  out  many  branches,  which  make  a  growth  of 
two  or  three  feet.  It  is  a  good  plant,  of  very  easy 
culture. 

The  Oxalis 

This,  in  its  several  varieties,  is  one  of  the  best 
flowering  plants  we  can  grow  for  winter  use  (Fig  13), 


1 82  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

It  should  be  potted  in  fall,  several  roots  in  a  pot,  and 
given  a  sunny  place.  It  blooms  profusely  and  con- 
stantly during  the  entire  season. 

The   Trailing  Lantana 

This  is  a  charming  basket  plant  because  of  its 
free  flowering  qualities.  Its  flowers  are  similar  in 
shape  and  size  to  those  of  the  shrubby  Lantana.  In 
color  they  are  a  rosy  mauve.  They  are  produced  with 
such  profusion  that  the  entire  plant  seems  enveloped 
in  a  cloud  of  dainty  bloom  which  hides  the  foliage 
almost  completely.  It  can  be  cut  back  from  time  to 
time,  and  made  to  become  very  bushy  and  compact. 
It  blooms  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  if  allowed 
to  have  its  own  way.  Plants  for  winter  use,  however, 
ought  to  be  cut  back  sharply  in  August,  and  made  to 
produce  an  entire  new  growth  of  branches  for  winter. 


CHAPTER    XXXV 

BULBS     FOR     WINTER     FLOWERING 

No  collection  of  flowers  can  be  considered  com- 
plete, nowadays,  if  it  does  not  include  a  variety  of 
bulbs  so  treated  that  they  will  come  into  bloom  in 
midwinter  when  few  other  plants  can  be  depended  on 
to  furnish  flowers. 

The  amateur  florist  will  have  no  trouble  in  flower- 
ing bulbs  in  the  house  if  he  or  she  is  willing  to  be 
guided  by  certain  rules  which  experience  has  proved 
to  be  good  ones — rules  which  it  is  imperatively  neces- 
sary to  follow  in  order  to  insure  complete  success. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind,  when  we  bring  a  bulb 
into  blossom  in  winter,  that  we  are  reversing  the  nat- 
ural order  of  things,  which  is,  that  these  plants  shall  be 
in  a  dormant  condition  at  that  time.  It  is  an  unnatural 
process,  therefore,  but  in  order  to  secure  as  great  a 
measure  of  success  as  possible,  we  must  follow  the 
methods  of  Nature  so  far  as  we  can  understand  them. 

If  we  plant  a  bulb  in  the  garden  in  September 
or  October,  it  makes  no  visible  growth  of  top  that 
season.  But  if  you  were  to  dig  it  up  any  time  before 
the  closing  in  of  winter,  and  examine  it,  you  would 
find  that  it  had  begun  to  make  root  growth.  All 
through  the  winter  it  goes  on  making  active  prepara- 
tions for  spring's  work.  As  soon  as  the  snow  melts 
and  the  sun  shines,  it  will  send  up  a  top,  and  the 
vigor  of  its  growth  depends  largely  on  the  condition 
in  which  its  roots  are.  If  there  has  been  satisfactory 
development  of  them>  this  growth  will  be  strong  and 
healthy.  If  there  is  imperfect  development,  the  growth 
of  the  top  will  be  proportionately  weak.  It  is  therefore 
important  that  bulbs  be  planted  as  early  as  possible, 


1 84  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

In  potting  bulbs  from  which  we  desire  winter 
flowers,  it  is  necessary,  as  I  have  said,  to  imitate  the 
processes  of  nature,  therefore,  immediately  after  pot- 
ting them,  the  bulbs  must  be  put  away  in  the  dark  to 
form  roots  before  they  are  brought  to  the  light.  If 
put  in  the  light  as  soon  as  potted,  the  roots  and  the 
top  would  begin  to  grow  at  the  same  time,  and  as 
there  would  be  no  strong  roots  to  nourish  and  support 
the  top,  the  development  of  that  part  of  the  plant 
would  be  weak,  and  if  any  flowers  were  produced  they 
would  be  inferior  ones.  By  putting  the  bulbs  in  the 
dark,  we  imitate  the  conditions  which  prevail  when 
we  put  them  in  the  ground,  in  fall.  The  dark  place 
in  which  they  are  stored  should  also  be  a  cool  one. 
Were  it  warm,  the  top  growth  might  begin  prema- 
turely, or  before  there  were  roots  enough  to  support  it 
properly.  Growth  of  stalks  and  leaves  is  encouraged 
by  warmth  and  light;  growth  of  roots  by  darkness 
and  low  temperature.  Therefore,  if  you  want  fine 
plants,  give  them  ample  opportunity  to  complete  the 
latter  growth  first,  and  then  bring  them  under  condi- 
tions which  will  stimulate  the  development  of  leaves 
and  flowers. 

In  this  way — and  in  this  way  only — can  we  grow 
bulbs  well,  in  the  house.  We  are  often  told  by  those 
to  whom  this  plan  is  recommended,  that  in  their 
opinion  it  is  simply  a  "whim,"  but  there  is  no  "whim" 
about  it.  It  is  simply  following  out  Nature's  plan. 
This  method  of  starting  bulbs  is  strictly  scientific  in 
its  nature,  if  we  may  be  allowed  this  use  of  the  term 
in  reference  to  a  process  which  is  an  imitative  one  to 
a  very  great  degree.  Those  who  pot  their  bulbs  and 
place  them  at  once  in  the  window  will  almost 
invariably  fail  with  them,  but  by  following  the  method 
QUtlined  above  success  can  always  be  depended  on. 


BULBS     FOR      WINTER      FLOWERING  185 

The  proper  soil  in  which  to  grow  bulbs  is  made 
up  of  loam  and  well-rotted  cow  manure,  with  sand 
enough  worked  in  to  make  the  compost  light  and 
friable.  It  should  be  worked  over  until  mellow.  If 
cow  manure  is  not  available,  use  bone  meal  in  the 
proportion  of  a  teacupful  to  a  half  bushel  of  soil.  On 
no  account  use  fresh  manure.  It  is  sure  to  injure  bulbs. 

In  potting,  several  bulbs  can  be  grown  in  the  same 
pot,  if  six,  seven  and  eight-inch  sizes  are  used.  A 
much  better  effect  is  secured  by  massing  them  than 
can  be  obtained  if  they  are  grown  singly.  A  five-inch 
pot  is  quite  large  enough  to  accommodate  two  bulbs  of 
Hyacinth  of  ordinary  size.  A  six-inch  pot  will  be  large 
enough  for  two  larger  bulbs,  and  a  seven-inch  pot  will 
hold  four  bulbs,  while  five  and  six  bulbs  can  be  grown 
in  an  eight-inch  pot. 

Cover  the  bulbs  to  the  depth  of  about  an  inch, 
water  them  well,  to  settle  the  soil  about  them,  and 
then  set  them  away  in  whatever  cool,  dark  place  you 
have  chosen  to  store  them  in  while  roots  are  being 
formed.  Some  use  the  cellar.  This  is  a  good  place 
for  them.  Others  dig  a  trench  in  the  ground  and 
sink  the  pots  in  it,  drawing  the  soil  about  them  after 
they  are  in  place,  and  covering  with  boards  or  leaves, 
to  exclude  light.  Others  put  them  in  a  room  away  from 
fire  heat,  whose  windows  can  be  darkened.  It  does 
not  much  matter  where  they  are  placed,  if  they  can 
be  kept  cool  and  dark.  These  are  the  points  to  aim 
at,  at  this  stage  of  proceedings. 

Most  kinds  should  be  left  in  the  starting  room  at 
least  a  month,  and  some  will  require  twice  that  length 
of  time  in  which  to  fully  develop  roots.  There  is  no 
definite  period  for  this  part  of  the  work.  They  are 
to  be  left  there  until  roots  are  formed,  be  the  time 
long  or  short.  Some  will  insist  on  making  a  growth 
of  top  shortly  after  being  potted.  If  you  find  that 


l86  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

they  are  inclined  to  do  this,  it  is  as  well  to  bring 
them  up  at  once,  as  they  will  keep  on  growing  after 
having  begun,  and  they  will  surely  be  spoiled  if  left 
in  the  dark  after  top  growth  has  started.  The  reason 
for  this  behavior  on  their  part  is  this  :  They  have  been 
kept  under  conditions  which  excite  premature  develop- 
ment. Probably  too  much  light  or  warmth  has  been 
given  them.  Most  bulbs  will  grow  to  some  extent 
when  exposed  to  such  conditions,  if  not  potted,  the 
same  as  Onions  will,  in  the  cellar.  Such  bulbs  are 
weak,  and  seldom  bloom.  It  is  always  advisable  to 
procure  fresh,  strong  bulbs  each  season.  These  only 
are  to  be  depended  on. 

After  the  bulbs  have  been  in  the  cellar  or  cold 
storage  about  a  month,  examine  them,  turn  the  ball 
of  earth  out  of  a  pot  and  ascertain  if  the  roots  have 
reached  the  outside  of  it.  If  they  have,  it  will  be 
safe  to  bring  the  pots  to  the  window,  but  do  not 
bring  them  all  at  once,  if  you  want  a  succession  of 
flowers.  By  keeping  some  of  them  in  low  temperature 
the  growth  of  the  top  can  be  retarded  for  some  time. 
It  is  well  to  pot  them  at  intervals,  for  by  doing  this, 
and  leaving  some  of  them  in  cold  storage  longer  than 
others,  we  can  manage  to  have  flowers  from  bulbs 
during  the  greater  part  of  winter. 

Right  here  let  us  anticipate  the  question  sure  to 
be  asked  about  the  care  required  by  bulbs  after  they 
have  completed  their  winter  flowering.  We  cannot 
advise  carrying  them  over  for  another  season.  While 
it  is  true  that  once  in  a  while  a  bulb  will  bloom  a 
second  time,  after  forcing,  it  is  equally  true  that  most 
of  them  will  not  do  so.  As  a  general  thing,  a  bulb 
which  has  been  forced  is  so  exhausted  by  it  that  it 
is  worthless  afterward.  It  can  never  be  depended  on, 
therefore,  to  avoid  disappointment,  buy  fresh,  strong 
bulbs  each  season.  These  you  can  depend  on. 


BULBS      FOR      WINTER      FLOWERING  187 

On  bringing  your  bulbs  to  the  light,  do  not  put 
them  in  a  very  warm  room.  A  temperature  of  sixty 
degrees  is  much  better  for  them  than  a  higher  one. 
In  a  low  temperature,  such  as  characterizes  spring,  the 
growth  will  be  a  healthy  one,  while  a  high  one  will 
force  them  too  rapidly,  and  the  development  will  be 
correspondingly  weak.  In  a  very  warm  room,  many 
buds  will  blast.  When  in  bloom  the  cooler  you  keep 
the  plants,  the  longer  their  flowers  will  last. 

Hyacinths  often  show  buds  shortly  after  the  top 
starts.  The  flower  spike  will  appear  away  down 
among  the  green  leaves,  and  there  it  will  seem  deter- 
mined to  stay.  If  any  flowers  open  while  the  buds  are 
in  this  bunched-up  condition  they  will  not  show  to  any 
advantage,  and  you  will  be  greatly  disappointed  in 
your  plant.  As  soon  as  you  notice  the  tendency  of  a 
stalk  to  not  develop  properly,  make  a  cone  of  thick 
brown  paper,  the  size  of  the  pot.  Cut  off  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  of  the  apex  of  it,  and  put  it  over  the 
pot.  The  flower  stalk  will  reach  up  toward  the  light, 
and  in  this  way  you  can  often  succeed  in  coaxing  it 
out  of  its  sulkiness.  This  must  be  done  as  soon  as 
you  discover  that  the  stalk  is  at  a  standstill.  If  you 
wait  until  the  buds  begin  to  open  the  use  of  the 
paper  cover  will  be  of  no  benefit. 

Lilies 

One  of  the  favorite  flowers  for  forcing  is  the 
Bermuda  Lily,  generally  known  as  Easter  Lily,  and 
cataloged  as  Lilium  Harrisii  (Fig  45).  Nothing  can 
be  finer  than  a  large  specimen  of  this  superb  plant, 
crowned  with  its  great  cluster  of  trumpet-shaped 
flowers  of  the  purest  white,  of  waxen  texture,  and 
most  delightful  fragrance.  Such  a  plant  is  something 
to  be  proud  of.  As  an  ornament  for  the  parlor  it  is 
exquisite,  and  for  church  use  nothing  equals  it.  A 


FIG  45— THE  BERMUDA  LILY 


BULBS     FOR     WINTER     FLOWERING  189 

good  method  to  follow  in  growing  this  plant  is  this : 
"Put  three  or  four  large  and  solid  bulbs  in  each  nine 


FIG    46 — ROMAN    HYACINTH 

or  ten-inch  pot,  on  top  of  about  five  inches  of  soil. 
Cover  lightly,  water,  and  set  away  to  form  roots.    As 


190  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

soon  as  the  flower  stalk  starts  bring  them  to  the  light, 
and  as  the  stalk  reaches  up,  fill  in  about  it  with  soil; 
and  continue  to  do  this  until  the  pot  is  full.  The 
reason  for  planting  the  bulb  low  in  the  pot  is,  the 
roots,  which  furnish  support  for  the  stalk,  are  sent  out 
above  the  bulb.  If  the  bulbs  are  potted  high,  they  find 
no  soil  for  these  roots  to  take  hold  of.  The  candidum 
and  longiftorum  Lilies  are  excellent  for  forcing,  and 
should  have  the  same  treatment  advised  for  L.  Harrisii. 
The  lover  of  beautiful  flowers  makes  a  great  mistake 
if  he  fails  to  include  some  of  these  superb  Lilies  in 
his  fall  order. 

Hyacinths 

The  Hyacinth  will  be  found  one  of  the  most  satis- 
factory of  all  bulbs  for  forcing.  It  comes  in  many 
beautiful  colors,  is  very  fragrant,  and  not  one  bulb 
in  a  hundred  will  fail  to  bloom  if  the  treatment  advised 
above  is  followed;  The  single  sorts  are  preferable,  as 
they  have  a  more  graceful  spike  of  flowers  than  the 
double  kinds,  but  the  latter  are  deserving  a  place  in 
all  collections. 

No  one  should  fail  to  grow  the  Roman  Hyacinths 
(Fig  46).  These  send  up  several  flower  stalks  from 
the  same  bulb.  Their  single  flowers  are  loosely 
arranged  along  the  spike,  and  assert  themselves  most 
charmingly.  These  come  in  pink,  white  and  blue. 
They  are  as  fragrant  as  the  Dutch  sorts  and  preferable 
to  them  for  cutting. 

Tulips   and  Narcissus 

Among  the  Tulips  the  single  kinds  are  almost 
always  selected,  as  being  most  certain  to  give  satis- 
faction. 

The  Narcissus,  or  Daffodil  (Fig  47),  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  of  all  flowers.  No  collection  of  winter 


FIG   47 — TYPES    OF   NARCISSUS 


HOME      FLORICULTURE 

flowering  bulbs  can  afford  to  be  without  them.  They 
are  simply  magnificent.  They  are  of  the  easiest  cul- 
ture. Their  flowers  remain  a  long  time  in  perfection. 
Be  sure  to  order  some  of  all  the  varieties  recommended 
as  suitable  for  forcing. 

Lily   of   the    Valley 

Many  persons  attempt  to  bring  the  Lily  of  the 
Valley  (Fig  48)  into  bloom  in  the  house,  and  fail  with 
it  because  they  treat  it  as  they  do  the  bulbs  spoken 
of  above.  The  pips  or  crowns  should  always  be  fresh 
ones,  procured  from  reliable  dealers  who  make  sure 
of  obtaining  the  best  stock  on  the  market.  Keep 
them  in  a  cold  place  until  you  are  ready  to  force 
them,  and  then  put  them  in  pots  containing  sphagnum 
moss  or  sand,  and  place  them,  after  watering  them 
well,  where  they  will  have  as  steady  a  heat  as  possible, 
of  seventy  to  seventy-five  degrees.  It  is  quite  impor- 
tant that  the  moss  or  sand  should  never  be  allowed  to 
get  dry.  Keep  the  plants  in  a  semi-dark  place  until 
their  stems  are  two  or  three  inches  high.  Then  remove 
to  a  lighter  position  in  order  to  give  the  flowers  a 
chance  to  develop.  This  treatment,  it  will  be  observed, 
is  hardly  such  as  can  be  given  in  the  ordinary  living 
room,  therefore  one  ought  not  to  depend  wholly  on 
this  one  plant  for  winter  flowers.  A  greenhouse  is 
the  best  place  for  it. 

Get  your  pots  and  your  potting  soil  ready  for  your 
bulbs  as  soon  as  you  send  off  your  order  for  them 
and  see  to  their  planting  as  soon  as  they  arrive. 
Nothing  injures  a  bulb  more  than  to  expose  it  to  the 
air  and  light  for  some  time  before  potting. 

Freesia 

The  Freesia  is  a  most  delightful  little  flower,  in 
form,  color  and  fragrance,  and  it  is  unsurpassed  for 


BULBS      FOR      WINTER      FLOWERING  193 

cutting  for  use  in  small  bouquets,  and  in  dainty  vases 
where  quality  counts  for  more  than  quantity.     Put  a 


FIG    48 — BUNCH    OF    LILY    OF    THE    VALLEY 

dozen  bulbs  in  each  six-inch  pot.    Unlike  other  bulbs 
this  should  not  be  placed  in  the  dark  but  kept  in  the 


194  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

light  from  time  of  potting.  After  flowering,  they 
should  be  watered  moderately  until  the  foliage  ripens. 
Then  allow  the  soil  in  the  pot  to  become  quite  dry,  and 
set  the  plants  away  in  some  quiet  place  until  the 
following  August.  Then  shake  out  the  old  bulbs,  and 
repot  them  for  another  season's  work.  This  plant 
can  be  depended  on  for  a  second  season's  flowering. 

For  the  sake  of  variety,  one  should  include 
Crocus,  Jonquils,  Alliums,  Lachenalias,  and,  in  fact, 
nearly  all  bulbs  which  are  found  in  the  catalogs  of  the 
florists.  They  are  all  charming  flowers,  and  a  few  of 
them  add  vastly  to  the  pleasure  which  a  collection  of 
winter  flowering  bulbs  can  afford. 

Below  will  be  found  a  list  of  such  kinds  as  are 
best  adapted  to  the  requirements  of  the  amateur : 

Allium  Neapolitaniim  and  Hermetti  grandiflorum 
— Large  clusters  of  starry  white  flowers.  Fine  for 
cutting  (Fig  49). 

Hyacinth — Romans  for  early  flowering.  Dutch 
for  pots  and  glasses.  Always  get  best  named  sorts. 

Lrias — Mixed  colors. 

Jonquils — Single  and  double.  Campernelle,  large, 
and  Campernelle  rugulosus,  a  grand  variety.  All 
yellow  and  very  fragrant.  Specially  desirable. 

Lachenalia — Fine  for  hanging  baskets.  Charming 
flowers,  of  peculiar  combinations  of  color.  Foliage 
very  pretty. 

Lilium — Harrisii,  longiflorum  and  candidum. 

Lily  of  the  Valley — German-grown  pips  most 
desirable  and  likely  to  give  satisfaction. 

Muscari — The  "Grape  Hyacinth."  Feathery 
flowers  in  blue  and  white. 

Narcissus — All  good.  The  following  are  espe- 
cially recommended:  Large  Trumpet  varieties — 
Trumpet  major,  Emperor,  Empress,  Henry  Irving, 
Princeps,  Golden  Spur,  Horsfieldil,  Maximus  and  Ard 


FIG    49— THE    NEAPOLITAN    ALLIUM 


196  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

Righ.  Peerless  or  Star  varieties — Stella,  Sir  Watkln, 
Figaro,  Leedsii,  Cynosure  and  Barii  conspicuus. 
Double  varieties — Van  Siou,  Orange  Phoenix,  Sulphur 
Phoenix  and  Incomparable.  Polyanthus  varieties — 
Paper  White  grandinora,  Grand  Soleil  d'Or,  White 
Pearl,  Grand  Monarque  and  Grand  Primo. 

The  Chinese  Sacred  Lily  is  a  variety  of  Polyan- 
thus Narcissus,  of  very  easy  culture.  It  is  generally 
grown  in  bowls  or  vases  of  water,  with  a  handful  of 
small  stones  or  pebbles  about  the  bulb  to  hold  it  in 
place,  and  any  of  the  Polyanthus  varieties  may  be 
grown  in  the  same  way.  The  Poet's  Narcissus,  and 
the  Hoop  Petticoat  varieties  ought  not  to  be  over- 
looked. Both  are  very  desirable. 

Oxalis — Buttercup,  of  rich  golden  yellow,  with 
large  clusters  of  fine  flowers  borne  on  long  stems  above 
the  foliage.  A  magnificent  plant  for  a  hanging  basket. 
One  of  the  finest  of  all  plants,  in  fact,  for  this  purpose. 
The  rose  and  white  varieties  are  also  fine  for  hanging 
pots.  Plant  three  or  four  bulbs  in  each  pot. 

Nerine  sarniensis  (Guernsey  Lily) — A  species 
closely  related  to  Amaryllis,  blooming  freely  in  winter. 
Blossoms  a  brilliant  crimson,  seeming  to  be  sprinkled 
with  gold  dust.  Fine. 

Tulip— Single.    Due  Van  Thol  sorts  preferable. 

Zephyranthes — White  and  pink. 

Astilbe — While  not  a  bulb,  this  plant  may  prop- 
erly be  mentioned  here,  as  it  is  used  extensively  for 
winter  flowering.  Its  flowers  are  white,  of  an  airy, 
feathery  character,  and  its  foliage  very  pleasing- 
Strong  clumps  of  roots  are  furnished,  which  should 
be  potted  and  kept  in  a  cool  place  until  January.  A 
beautiful  plant  for  greenhouse  use,  but  also  adapted 
to  cultivation  in  a  cool  window. 


CHAPTER    XXXVI 

APPLIANCES     FOR     THE    AMATEUR'S     USE 

All  owners  of  collections  of  plants  ought  to  pro- 
vide themselves  with  such  conveniences  as  will  enable 
them  to  take  the  best  possible  care  of  them  with  the 
least  trouble.  There  are  many  useful  articles,  which 
can  be  had  for  a  very  reasonable  price,  which  will 
make  work  among  plants  easy  and  pleasant.  They 
make  it  possible  for  us  to  take  much  better  care  of  our 


FIG    50 — HAND    PRUNING    SHEARS 

plants  than  we  can  if  we  fail  to  avail  ourselves  of  the 
help  of  these  conveniences. 

Every  amateur  should  own  some  pruning  shears 
(Fig  50).  These  will  be  found  useful  in  window 
garden,  greenhouse  or  outdoor  garden. 

The  thermometer  ought  to  occupy  a  prominent 
place  in  every  collection,  and  the  owner  of  the  green- 
house or  window  garden  in  which  it  is  placed  should 
be  governed  by  its  registration  as  far  as  possible. 

Indestructible  labels  should  be  used  where  there 
are  many  plants,  for  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  remem- 
ber the  names  of  many  of  them,  and  every  person  who 
grows  plants  wants  to  know  just  what  they  are. 


198 


HOME      FLORICULTURE 


Never  depend  on  memory,  or  the  little  wooden  labels 
which  come  with  the  plants  you  buy. 

Trowels  for  transplanting  and  digging  among 
plants  will  be  needed  in  every  home  where  flowers 
are  grown. 

A  weeding  hook  will  be  found  a  great  convenience 
in  stirring  the  soil  about  your  plants — much  better  than 
the  stick  with  which  the  work  is  generally  done.  Some 
of  the  most  approved  styles  are  shown  in  Fig  51. 


PIG    51— SERVICEABLE     WEEDING    IMPLEMENTS 

Watering  pots  ought  always  to  be  at  hand.  The 
best  are  those  made  of  heavy  galvanized  iron.  The 
most  useful  ones  are  those  having  a  long,  slender  spout, 
which  will  enable  you  to  put  the  water  just  where  it 
is  needed  without  spilling  or  slopping  it.  Every  water- 
ing pot  ought  to  be  fitted  with  a  set  of  nozzles,  which 
can  be  slipped  on  over  the  end  of  the  spout,  when  it 
is  necessary  to  spray  plants,  or  the  floor  of  the  green- 
house. 

Every  amateur  ought  to  have  a  portable  spray 
pump  (Fig  4).  It  will  be  found  one  of  the  most 


APPLIANCES     FOR     THE     AMATEURS     USE        IQ9 

useful  things  about  the  place.  It  will  come  into  use 
daily.  Use  one  for  a  week,  and  you  will  wonder  how 
you  ever  got  along  without  it.  These  are  fitted  with 
hose,  to  enable  you  to  throw  a  stream.  Each  hose  has  a 
nozzle  which  can  be  adjusted  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
throw  a  stream,  of  a  spray  of  any  degree  of  fineness. 
The  pumps  will  be  found  useful  in  many  ways,  out- 
side the  greenhouse,  as  for  washing  windows  or 
buggies,  putting  out  incipient  fires,  or  applying  insec- 
ticides to  plants  in  the  garden. 

The  only  good  substitute  for  these  pumps  is  the 
brass  syringe  (Fig  2)  made  expressly  for  florists'  use. 


FIG    52 — FOLDING    PLANT    STAND 

This  is  another  most  useful  article  for  showering 
plants,  or  the  application  of  insecticides,  etc.  One  will 
last  a  lifetime,  and  will  be  found  a  good  investment. 
Use  one  of  them  and  you  will  never  thereafter  depend 
on  rubber  sprinklers  or  hand  atomizers. 

Every  owner  of  a  collection  of  house  plants  ought 
also  to  own  plant  stands  for  them,  either  of  wood  or 
wire.  These  enable  us  to  arrange  our  plants  to  the 
best  advantage,  both  for  their  good,  and  for  decora- 
tive effect.  They  will  be  found  more  convenient  in 
every  way  than  tables  or  shelves.  Being  provided 


2OO  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

with  casters,  the  wire  stands  allow  us  to  move  a 
large  number  of  plants  about  without  lifting  a  pot  at 
a  time,  as  is  usually  done.  These  stands  are  also 
valuable  because  they  offer  no  obstruction  to  the  light, 
and  can  be  used  in  any  position  without  shading  the 
plants.  A  neat  and  convenient  wooden  plant  stand  is 
seen  in  Fig  52. 

Swinging  iron  brackets  will  be  found  extremely 
satisfactory  for  use  at  the  sides  of  the  window.  They 
enable  us  to  make  the  window  attractive,  by  growing 
on  them  plants  of  spreading  or  drooping  habit  whose 
beauty  would  be  covered  up  to  a  great  extent,  and 
therefore  wasted,  if  we  were  to  give  them  a  place 
among  others,  where  they  could  not  display  their  own 
individuality.  These  brackets  can  be  swung  toward 
the  glass,  or  away  from  it,  and  a  trial  of  them  will 
readily  convince  anyone  of  their  practical  utility,  as 
well  as  of  the  decorative  possibilities  which  can  be 
realized  by  their  use. 

Another  excellent  article  is  the  plant  stand  by 
which  single  specimens  can  be  elevated  to  any  desired 
hight.  These  will  be  found  invaluable  in  decorating 
rooms  with  growing  plants,  for  parties  and  other 
special  occasions,  for  it  is  almost  always  necessary  to 
give  some  plants  an  elevated  position  in  order  to 
produce  the  effects  aimed  at  in  our  decorative  scheme. 

Another  desirable  article  is  the  wood  fiber  saucer. 
These  make  it  possible  for  us  to  use  plants  on  the  finest 
furniture,  like  the  piano,  the  mantel  or  the  sideboard, 
without  running  any  risk  of  injury,  as  they  are  non- 
porous.  A  stand  for  large  plants,  made  from  the  same 
material,  is  fitted  with  casters.  This  is  also  very 
useful,  as  it  enables  us  to  move  heavy  plants  easily 
without  lifting  them. 

The  pot  lifter  is  a  handy  little  device  which  can 
readily  be  attached  to  large  pots,  and  made  to  serve 


201 

as  handles,  with  wjiich  these  pots  are  never  provided 
by  the  manufacturer. 

For  large  plants,  wooden  tubs  are  furnished. 
These  will  be  found  very  useful  in  the  greenhouse  or 
bay  window,  to  accommodate  plants  which  have  out- 
grown the  capacity  of  a  pot  of  the  ordinary  size. 

Bellows  for  the  application  of  dry  and  liquid 
insecticides  and  fungicides  should  be  provided.  They 
will  come  in  play  many  times  during  the  season.  The 
owners  of  these  and  other  conveniences  of  a  similar 
nature  will  find  it  so  easy  to  give  plants  the  attention 
they  need  by  the  use  of  them  that  they  will  have  no 
excuse  for  neglecting  to  do  so,  as  they  will  be  almost 
sure  to,  if  such  conveniences  are  not  at  hand.  They 
make  it  easy  for  us  to  reduce  things  to  a  system,  and 
to  do  what  is  needed  when  it  is  needed,  because  we 
have  the  proper  utensils  to  do  it  with  easily  and 
effectively. 

Plant  stakes  of  different  sizes  should  be  always  on 
hand.  Nothing  so  detracts  from  the  pleasing  appear- 
ance of  a  plant  as  the  makeshift  supports  often  pro- 
vided. A  neat  painted  stake  costs  but  little. 

A  supply  of  good  pots  of  different  sizes  ought  to 
be  kept  on  hand  by  the  amateur.  If  we  have  pots 
convenient,  we  generally  repot  plants  when  they  need 
it.  If  we  have  to  "wait  till  we  get  some,"  the  plant 
generally  suffers  from  neglect  to  attend  to  it  properly. 

A  supply  of  the  various  insecticides  and  fungi- 
cides needed  by  the  amateur  quite  as  much  as  by  the 
professional  florist,  if  he  would  keep  his  plants  in  good 
condition,  ought  always  to  be  at  hand,  so  that  proper 
attention  can  be  given  to  the  enemies  of  plant  life 
and  health  promptly  and  effectively.  With  this,  as 
with  repotting,  we  often  wait  until  the  injury  done  is 
so  great  that  the  plant  cannot  recover.  If  we  have  the 
material  at  hand  to  work  with,  this  will  not  be  likely 


202  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

to  be  the  case,  as  our  regard  for  the  welfare  of  our 
plants  will  lead  us  to  come  to  their  relief  at  once. 

A  supply  of  bone  meal  and  plant  food  should  con- 
stitute a  portion  of  the  amateur's  outfit.  It  will  be 
needed  at  all  seasons.  Aim  to  never  be  without  a 
supply  of  it. 

It  is  always  a  wise  plan  to  keep  these  things  by  us, 
for,  as  has  been  said,  we  are  likely  to  need  them  at 
any  time.  If  we  are  without  them,  when  needed,  we 
are  not  in  shape  to  take  care  of  our  plants  as  they 
ought  to  be  taken  care  of.  Whatever  needs  doing 
ought  to  be  done  as  soon  as  the  existence  of  that  need 
is  discovered,  and  in  order  to  do  this,  we  must  antici- 
pate, to  a  great  extent,  and  provide  ourselves  with  all 
necessary  articles  in  advance.  This  is  what  the  farmer, 
the  housewife,  and  other  men  and  women,  do  in  their 
respective  lines  of  business,  and  it  is  wisdom  for  the 
amateur,  who  grows  flowers  for  pleasure,  to  pattern 
after  them  in  this  respect,  as  by  so  doing  the  work  can 
be  done  in  a  businesslike  way.  A  good  plan  to  follow 
is  this :  Make  pleasure  as  businesslike  as  possible  anc 
crowd  all  the  pleasure  you  can  into  your  business. 
And  the  only  way  in  which  you  can  do  this  is  by 
"having  things  handy." 


CHAPTER     XXXVII 

SMALL      GREENHOUSES 

I  am  glad  to  note  that  the  lovers  of  flowers  are 
evincing  a  growing  interest  in  small  buildings  specially 
adapted  to  their  culture.  While  it  is  true  that  fine 
plants  can  be  grown  in  the  sitting  room,  it  is  equally 
true  that  much  finer  ones  can  be  grown  in  rooms 
adapted  expressly  to  the  wants  of  the  plants.  The 
reasons  will  be  easily  understood  by  those  who  give 
the  matter  a  very  little  thought.  In  such  a  place 
temperature,  moisture,  light  and  shade,  can  be  arranged 
to  suit  the  plants,  while  in  the  living  room  it  is 
impossible  to  govern  these  things  to  a  nicety.  A  small 
greenhouse  will  accommodate  as  many  plants  as  most 
persons  who  grow  them  for  their  own  pleasure  can 
find  time  to  take  care  of,  while  in  the  sitting  room 
or  parlor  the  number  grown  must  necessarily 
be  limited.  In  a  greenhouse  a  much  greater  variety 
can  be  grown,  for  plants  will  flourish  there  which 
would  die  if  taken  into  the  living  room.  Some  of  our 
finest  plants,  therefore,  have  to  be  neglected  by  the 
owner  of  a  window  garden  because  he  knows  that  it 
would  be  useless  to  try  to  grow  them  under  conditions 
which  prevail  there. 

A  great  many  persons  labor  under  the  impression 
that  even  a  small  greenhouse  is  very  expensive.  Such 
is  not  the  case,  however,  if  a  plain  house  is  built,  and 
such  a  house  will  enable  you  to  grow  just  as  fine  plants 
as  the  most  elaborate  structure.  Material  of  ordinary 
quality  can  be  used,  and  much  of  the  work  can  be 
done  by  any  person  who  is  at  all  handy  with  tools. 

But  while  it  is  true  that  a  small  house  can  be 
built  for  much  less  money  than  most  persons  imagine 


2O4  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

who  have  given  the  matter  little  thought  and  no  inves- 
tigation, it  is  equally  true  that  it  cannot  be  built  for  a 
song.  But  one  thing  I  am  quite  sure  of :  that  many 
persons  who  often  express  a  wish  that  they  had  a 
place  expressly  for  plants  spend  more  money  foolishly 
in  the  course  of  a  year  than  it  would  cost  to  build  a 
very  good  greenhouse.  Perhaps  I  ought  not  to  say 
foolishly,  but  what  I  mean  is,,  that  money  is  expended 
unnecessarily.  If  a  greenhouse  were  determined  on, 
money  enough  might  be  saved  to  build  it,  while  with- 
out this  plan  in  view,  the  money  required  would 
doubtless  be  spent  in  ways  from  which  no  visible 
benefit  would  be  seen  at  the  end  of  the  year.  A  little 
curtailing  of  expenses  would  do  the  work.  If  persons 
fond  of  flowers  only  knew  the  great  amount  of  pleasure 
to  be  derived  from  such  a  house,  well  stocked  with 
plants,  they  would  be  willing  to  economize  in  all  ways 
to  secure  one.  It  will  be  found  to  be  the  pleasantest 
part  of  the  home,  and  there  is  health  in  it,  and  a 
source  of  education  for  the  children.  I  wish  those 
who  have  window  collections  which  bid  fair  to  outgrow 
their  present  quarters  would  think  about  this  matter 
and  see  if  it  is  not  possible  to  give  the  plants  a  room 
by  themselves.  Both  plants  and  plant  owners  would 
appreciate  it. 

In  building,  it  -pays  to  build  well.  When  we  have 
to  make  provision  for  not  only  a  possible  but  a  prob- 
able thirty-degree-below-zero  spell  of  weather,  no  ordi- 
nary, cheaply  built  wall  will  keep  out  the  cold,  and 
our  greenhouses  must  be  built  with  a  view  to  doing 
this.  I  am  sorry  that  I  cannot  tell  those  who  ask  me 
for  estimates  of  cheap  structures  that  a  house  which 
will  answer  all  purposes  can  be  built  for  twenty-five 
dollars,  or  fifty  dollars,  or  one  hundred  dollars,  fully 
equipped  for  work,  for  I  would  be  very  glad  to  see 
such  a  house  attached  to  every  home  where  there  i* 


SMALL      GREENHOUSES  2O5 

one  who  cares  for  flowers.  I  have  received  many  let- 
ters during  the  past  year  from  women  who  would  like 
to  start  out  in  a  small  way  in  flower  growing  as  a 
means  of  earning  something,  in  which  the  writers  say 
that  they  have  a  small  sum  of  money  which  they 
might  use  in  putting  up  a  small  house,  and  asking 
if  I  think  it  would  pay  them  to  do  so.  I  have  to  tell 
them  that  I  do  not  think  it  would.  A  house  smaller 
than  sixteen  by  twenty  would  not  enable  them  to  grow 
as  many  plants  as  they  would  be  obliged  to  in  order 
to  make  anything  from  them,  and  it  would  be  impos- 
sible to  build  a  house  of  that  size  in  this  section  for 
less  than  two  hundred  dollars,  let  the  builder  economize 
to  the  greatest  possible  extent.  In  trying  to  put  up 
a  house  for  any  smaller  amount — that  is,  a  house 
which  would  answer  the  purposes  of  such  persons — 
it  would  be  throwing  money  away.  But  when  a  person 
writes  that  he  has  two  or  three  hundred  dollars  to 
invest  in  this  enterprise,  I  can  conscientiously  advise 
him  to  go  ahead,  for  I  know  from  my  own  experience 
that  a  good  house  can  be  built  for  that ;  a  house  large 
enough  to  accommodate  as  many  plants  as  most  ama- 
teurs would  care  to  grow,  and  which  will,  if  properly 
built,  afford  ample  protection  against  the  rigors  of  our 
severest  winters. 

It  is  often  advised  that  the  walls  of  a  greenhouse 
should  be  constructed^  by  setting  posts  in  the  ground 
and  boarding  up  on  each  side  of  them.  If  this  is 
done,  the  cost  will  be  greatly  lessened,  but  I  would 
not  advise  doing  it,  because  the  posts  will  rot  in  a 
few  years,  and  then  you  will  be  obliged  to  rebuild, 
therefore  in  the  end  nothing  is  saved  by  building  in 
this  manner.  I  would  advise  having  the  greenhouse 
built  just  as  substantially  as  the  dwelling  to  which  it 
is  attached,  for  such  a  house  will  be  good  for  years. 
The  cheaper  way  is  very  questionable  economy, 


2O6  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

I  have  my  houses  built  on  walls  of  stone  reaching 
down  below  frost-line,  thus  affording  a  solid  and  per- 
manent foundation  for  them,  and  doing  away  with 
all  danger  of  heaving  from  frost.  On  top  of  this  wall 
sills  are  placed  and  two-by-fours  set  up,  sixteen  inches 
apart,  along  them.  On  both  sides  of  these  two-by-fours 
is  a  course  of  matched  boarding.  Over  this  tarred 
sheathing  paper  is  tacked.  Inside  there  is  a  row  of 
matched  ceiling  boards,  while  on  the  outside  there  is 
another  thickness  of  paper,  and  another  thickness  of 
matched  boarding,  then  another  thickness  of  paper, 
after  which  the  wall  is  finished  with  what  is  called 
at  the  West  "novelty  siding" — a  kind  of  matched  clap- 
boarding  which  gives  a  much  better  finish  to  the 
outside  of  buildings  than  the  ordinary  clapboard. 
Thus  I  obtain  a  wall  in  which  there  is  an  air  space 
from  which  all  cold  wind  is  excluded.  It  pays  to 
build  well  when  you  are  at  it,  for  the  snugger  and 
tighter  you  have  your  walls  the  less  fuel  you  will 
have  to  use. 

The  side  walls  are  four  and  a  half  feet  high.  They 
come  up  to  the  roof,  no  glass  being  needed  on  the 
sides  of  such  a  building.  The  wall  at  the  south 
end  is  only  three  feet  high;  above  that  the  end  is 
filled  in  with  sash.  Get  all  the  south  sunshine  you 
can.  The  roof  is  all  glass,  with  two  sections  on 
each  side  which  are  hung  with  hinges  at  the  top. 
These  lift  for  ventilation.  The  sash  in  the  end  is 
double  glazed,  and  these  two  thicknesses  of  glass 
enable  me  to  leave  plants  standing  with  their  leaves 
touching  the  inner  thickness  during  our  coldest  winter 
weather,  something  that  I  could  not  do  with  safety 
if  there  were  no  double  glazing.  If  thought  preferable, 
there  can  be  two  sets  of  sash,  and  the  outer  one 
can  be  put  on  in  fall  and  taken  off  in  spring.  The 
space  between  the  two  panes  answers  a  double  purpose : 


SMALL     GREENHOUSES 


207 


It  keeps  the  frost  from  accumulating  on  either  pane, 
therefore  the  plants  are  not  likely  to  be  nipped  if  left 
touching  the  glass  on  the  inside,  and  there  is  no  frost 
to  shut  out  the  sunshine.  Much  of  the  sash  in  the 
end  is  hung  on  hinges  so  that  it  can  be  swung  outward 
in  summer,  thus  letting  in  plenty  of  fresh  air  from 
the  end  as  well  as  roof. 


FIG  53 — THE  AUTHOR'S  GREENHOUSE 


I  have  what  I  consider  a  model  greenhouse  (Fig 
53).  In  no  other  way  could  I  have  expended  the 
money  and  derived  so  much' pleasure  from  it. 


HOME      FLORICULTURE 

When  my  greenhouse  was  still  "a  castle  in  Spain," 
I  began  to  study  up  the  matter  of  heating  it,  were  it 
ever  to  materialize.  I  wrote  to  practical  florists  for 
their  opinions.  Some  advised  steam  heating.  Others 
advised  hot  water  heating.  The  majority  seemed  to 
be  in  favor  of  the  latter  system.  After  investigating 
the  relative  merits  of  both  systems  and  visiting  houses 
heated  in  both  ways,  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that 
for  small  houses,  such  as  the  amateur  would  be  likely 
to  build,  hot  water  heating  is  much  preferable  in  several 
ways.  Steam  heating  would  doubtless  be  better  for 
large  houses,  but  in  small  ones  it  would  not  be  as  con- 
trollable, and  certainly  not  as  cheap,  as  hot  water 
heating.  Many  dwellings  are  now  heated  by  steam 
or  hot  water,  and  where  this  is  done,  it  is  an  easy 
matter  to  extend  the  system  to  the  greenhouse  without 
much  trouble  and  but  little  extra  cost  over  the  expense 
of  the  piping  required.  In  such  a  case,  you  can  heat 
your  greenhouse  very  cheaply.  If  you  have  to  buy 
a  heating  outfit  expressly  for  it  the  cost  will  be  consid- 
erably increased. 

When  my  greenhouse  was  first  built,  I  had  a 
heater  put  in  for  heating  it,  while  the  dwelling  part 
was  warmed  by  coal  stoves.  Two  years  ago  I  decided 
to  discard  stoves  from  the  dwelling  and  put  in  a  hot 
water  apparatus  large  enough  to  furnish  heat  for  both 
dwelling  and  greenhouse.  I  find  that  it  works  per- 
fectly. The  greenhouse  circulation  is  controlled  to  suit 
the  weather  by  valves  in  the  pipes  taking  the  water 
from  the  heater  to  the  greenhouse,  so  that  a  large 
amount  of  heat  can  be  let  on  if  desired,  or  all  heat 
can  be  shut  off,  by  simply  opening  or  closing  a  valve. 
It  is  the  same  with  that  part  of  the  circulation  which 
extends  to  the  dwelling.  The  quality  of  heat  is  much 
more  satisfactory  than  that  obtained  from  steam,  being 
moister  and  milder.  Steam  heat  is  pretty  sure  to  be 


SMALL      GREENHOUSES  2OO, 

dry  and  intense  in  character.  With  the  hot  water  sys- 
tem a  slight  fire  can  be  kept,  but  as  long  as  you 
have  any  fire  at  all  the  water  will  circulate  in  the 
pipes,  while  with  steam  you  must  keep  the  fire  brisk 
enough  to  bring  and  keep  the  water  to  that  degree 
in  which  it  will  give  off  steam  to  fill  the  pipes.  It  will 
be  readily  understood  from  this  that  the  temperature 
can  be  regulated  much  more  satisfactorily  in  a  small 
house  where  hot  water  is  used  as  a  means  of  heating 
than  it  would  be  possible  to  do  with  steam. 

The  pipes  by  which  the  greenhouse  is  warmed 
run  around  the  building  on  the  sides  and  one  end. 
There  are  four  of  them,  all  four  inches  in  size.  They 
are  arranged  with  valves  in  such  a  manner  that  two 
pipes,  one  flow  and  one  return,  can  be  used  for  ordi- 
nary weather,  while  in  colder  weather  the  two  others 
can  be  added.  The  principle  of  circulation  may  not 
be  understood  by  the  reader  who  has  not  looked  into 
the  matter,  but  if  he  cares  to  "post"  himself,  he  can 
very  easily  do  so  by  sending  to  the  manufacturers  of 
heating  apparatus  and  asking  for  their  catalogs,  in 
which  the  system  is  fully  explained.  He  can  get 
estimates  from  them  of  the  cost  of  fitting  out  his 
greenhouse  with  heating  outfit. 

In  arranging  the  interior  of  a  small  greenhouse 
economy'  of  space  must  be  taken  into  consideration, 
and  at  the  same  time  due  regard  must  be  given  to  an 
arrangement  which  will  admit  of  showing  off  the 
plants  most  effectively.  I  would  advise  running  a  row 
of  benches  around  two  sides  and  the  end,  about  three 
feet  wide.  In  the  center  I  would  have  a  table  or  stand, 
with  shelves  arranged  in  such  a  manner  that  when 
filled  with  plants  it  would  look  like  a  pyramid  of 
foliage  and  flowers.  It  would  be  a  sort  of  plant  stand 
rising  from  each  side  and  both  ends,  to  a  central 
shelf  which  would  be  high  enough  to  lift  the  plants 


2IO  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

on  it  well  toward  the  roof.  In  this  way  you  can 
arrange  your  plants  very  effectively,  and  they  will 
not  be  crowded,  while  they  get  the  benefit  received 
by  being  as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  This  gives 
you  a  walk  all  around  the  house  between  side  benches 
and  tables.  Against  the  end  next  the  dwelling  I  have 
vines  trained  which  completely  cover  the  walls  and 
run  along  the  rafters. 

The  ventilating  sections  are  controlled  by  rods  and 
cranks,  which  enables  anyone  to  lift  or  close  them  very 
easily,  and  the  sash  can  be  left  at  any  place  with 
the  assurance  that  it  will  stay  there  till  moved  by 
the  power  which  controls  it.  It  cannot  be  lifted  by  a 
sudden  gust  of  wind  and  flung  down  upon  the  roof, 
breaking  glass  and  often  sash  bars,  as  ventilating 
sections  often  are  when  the  old  style  of  lifting  rod 
is  used. 

I  am  often  asked  to  give  estimates  of  the  actual 
cost  of  constructing  such  a  house.  This  it  is  impos- 
sible to  do  because  the  cost  of  work  and  material  varies 
so.  With  me  lumber  may  be  cheap,  while  with  you 
it  may  be  expensive.  The  only  way  to  get  at  the 
probable  cost  of  such  a  structure  is  to  go  to  some 
practical  carpenter  and  tell  him  what  you  want.  He 
can  figure  out  the  amount  of  lumber,  the  quantity  of 
sash,  the  cost  of  the  work,  and  give  you  a  very  close 
idea  of  the  total  cost  with  the  exception  of  the  heating 
apparatus.  The  cost  of  that,  as  I  have  said,  you 
can  ascertain  by  correspondence  with  the  manufac- 
turers of  it. 


CHAPTER     XXXVIII 

GARDEN      MAKING     AND      SEED      SOWING 

Do  not  be  in  too  great  a  hurry  to  make  your  flower 
garden  in  spring,  for  nothing  is  gained  by  working  in 
advance  of  the  season.  Wait  till  the  water  from  melt- 
ing snows  and  spring  rains  has  had  a  chance  to  drain 
off  before  you  spade  up  the  beds. 

When  the  ground  is  in  such  a  condition  that  it 
will  not  stick  to  the  spade,  but  cleave  away  from  it 
and  break  apart  easily,  it  will  be  safe  to  begin  work. 
The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  spade  up  the  soil  to  the 
depth  of  at  least  a  foot.  A  foot  and  a  half  is  better. 
Choose  a  warm,  sunshiny  day  for  this  work,  and  throw 
up  the  earth  as  lightly  as  possible,  so  that  the  air  and 
sun  can  take  effect  on  it.  Leave  it  until  it  is  in  a 
condition  to  crumble  easily  before  doing  anything  more 
with  it.  Then  get  some  well-rotted  manure  and  mix 
with  it  thoroughly.  If  you  work  it  over  once  or  twice, 
you  will  have  the  soil  fine,  light  and  mellow,  and 
that  is  just  what  you  want  it  to  be. 

Do  not  sow  flower  seeds  before  you  feel  quite 
sure  that  warm  weather  has  come  to  stay.  The  enthu- 
siastic young  florist,  and  some  older  ones,  too,  for  that 
matter,  always  gets  in  a  hurry  to  have  his  garden 
made  when  he  sees  "green  things  growing,"  and  quite 
often  he  finds  to  his  sorrow  that  "haste  makes  waste," 
for  our  first  early  warm  days  are  only  promises  of 
what  is  to  follow,  and  we  ought  not  to  be  deceived 
by  them  into  thinking  that  summer  has  really  come. 
If  you  sow  seed  before  the  ground  gets  warm  it  will 
rot.  If  the  seed  starts,  a  "cold  snap"  may  come  along 
and  kill  your  young  and  tender  plants.  Therefore, 
don't  be  in  too  great  a  hurry.  Remember  that  a  plant 


212  HOME     FLORICULTURE 

started  about  the  first  of  June  often  gets  ahead  of  a 
plant  started  the  middle  of  May.  The  May  plant  lacks 
the  vitality  and  strength  of  the  June  plant,  and  falls 
behind  in  the  race,  although  it  had  two  weeks'  start 
of  the  latter.  The  latter  had  the  "staying  qualities" 
which  the  premature  growth  of  the  former  had  robbed, 
or  rather  cheated,  it  of. 

It  may  seem  to  be  a  very  unimportant  matter,  but 
the  fact  is  that  the  sowing  of  seed  has  a  great  deal  to 
do  \vith  the  successful  culture  of  flowers  in  the  garden. 
The  soil  must  be  warm,  so  that  the  seed  intrusted  to 
it  will  germinate  readily.  It  must  be  light  and  fine,  so 
that  small  seed  will  not  be  smothered  under  lumps 
and  clods.  A  warm,  fine  soil  and  moisture  are  con- 
ducive to  the  successful  germination  of  seeds,  and  if 
you  have  those  which  you  know  to  be  good,  and  sow 
them  under  the  proper  conditions,  you  may  be  reason- 
ably sure  of  success. 

After  making  the  beds,  and  raking  the  surface 
over  and  over  to  thoroughly  pulverize  the  soil,  take  a 
smooth  board  and  press  it  down  all  over  them  to  make 
the  earth  in  which,  or  on  which,  you  are  to  sow  the 
seed,  firm.  If  this  is  not  done  the  drying  winds  and 
sunshine  will  soon  extract  the  moisture  from  it,  and 
delicate  seeds  may  fail  to  grow  because  of  a  lack  in 
that  direction.  It  will  not  make  the  soil  hard,  but 
simply  compact,  and  fine  roots  will  find  no  difficulty 
in  penetrating  it  readily. 

I  prefer  to  sow  seed  on  the  surface  of  a  bed 
prepared  in  this  way,  and  cover  it  by  sifting  on  soil. 
It  is  easy  to  cover  to  the  right  depth  by  this  method, 
while  by  the  old  one  of  drawing  a  stick  along  the  beds 
and  making  little  furrows  into  which  the  seed  is 
dropped,  one  is  very  likely  to  get  a  portion  of  it 
covered  so  deeply  that  it  will  be  unable  to  prick  up 
through  its  covering.  Fine  seed  requires  but  very 


GARDEN      MAKING      AND      SEED      SOWING  213 

slight  covering,  and  in  no  way  can  it  be  put  on  as 
evenly  as  by  sifting. 

After  having  scattered  the  seed  on  the  bed,  and 
sifted  the  soil  over  it,  take  your  board  and  press 
lightly  to  firm  the  covering  down,  and  make  it  able 
to  retain  moisture  longer  than  it  will  if  left  in  the 
condition  it  is  in  when  just  fallen  from  the  sieve. 

If  the  weather  should  prove  to  be  dry,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  sprinkle  the  beds  once  a  day.  Do  this 
at  night  or  early  in  the  morning.  Be  sure  not  to  let 
the  soil  get  dry  on  the  surface  before  your  plants 
have  come  up.  They  must  have  moisture  at  this  stage 
of  their  existence,  or,  rather,  their  attempt  to  begin 
an  existence. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  appear,  begin  to  pull  up 
such  weeds  as  will  be  sure  to  come  along  with  them. 
A  flowering  plant  and  a  weed  are  always  at  enmity 
with  each  other.  It  is  a  struggle  between  them  from 
the  beginning  for  the  possession  of  the  bed,  and  in 
ninety-nine  cases  out  of  one  hundred  the  weed  will 
get  possession.  There  can  be  no  compromise  if  you 
would  have  good  flowers.  Keep  the  weeds  down  or 
let  them  have  their  way.  Most  flowering  plants  are 
rather  delicate  at  first,  and  it  takes  them  some  time 
to  get  strength  enough  to  make  a  robust  growth,  while 
weeds  go  ahead  vigorously  from  the  start,  and  if 
you  allow  them  to  remain  they  will  soon  rob  the 
others  of  the  nourishment  they  ought  to  receive  from 
the  soil,  and  so  spread  their  roots  about  that  it  will 
be  difficult  to  pull  them  up  later,  without  pulling  up 
the  plants  you  want  to  remain  in  the  beds.  Therefore, 
begin  weeding  your  beds  just  as  soon  as  you  are  able 
to  tell  the  difference  between  weed  and  flower.  And 
be  sure  to  keep  your  beds  clean  all  through  the  season. 
Nothing  looks  worse  to  the  lover  of  flowers  than  a 
bed  in  which  weeds  and  flowers  grow  together.  In 


214  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

order  to  keep  the  weeds  down,  you  will  be  obliged 
to  work  at  them  late  and  early,  for  they  grow  so 
rapidly  that  they  soon  overcome  the  flowers  if  left 
to  themselves.  Neglect  your  beds  for  two  weeks  and 
you  will  be  surprised  to  see  what  a  start  the  weeds 
have  got  in  them.  They  will  tower  above  the  flowering 
plants,  and  assert  themselves  everywhere  with  a  see- 
what-I-can-do-if-you-give-me-a-chance  air  that  chal- 
lenges your  admiration  for  their  pluck  and  aggressive- 
ness, notwithstanding  your  dislike  for  them. 

Thin  out  your  plants  wherever  they  stand  too 
thick,  but  do  not  throw  any  away  until  you  know 
that  no  one  would  care  for  what  you  have  no  use  for. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  a  corner  of  the  garden  in 
which  to  set  surplus  plants,  for  cutting  from.  * 

Some  persons  like  to  start  their  seeds  early  in 
the  season,  in  the  house.  In  doing  this  care  must  be 
taken  to  give  plenty  of  air,  and  to  prevent  the  plants 
from  becoming  weak  and  spindling  by  reason  of  too 
much  heat  and  moisture.  Give  just  enough  water  to 
keep  the  soil  moist,  and  as  little  artificial  heat  as 
possible.  On  sunny  days  put  the  boxes  on  the  veranda, 
but  bring  in  before  the  sun  goes  down  and  the  air 
gets  chilly.  If  you  give  plenty  of  air,  sun,  and  not 
too  much  water,  you  can  raise  good,  strong  plants 
in  this  way,  but  if  they  are  not  strong  and  healthy 
at  the  time  of  transplanting  to  the  garden  beds,  they 
will  lag  along  and  come  out  behind  those  raised  from 
seed  sown  directly  in  the  beds.  I  prefer  to  sow  most 
annuals  in  the  beds,  because  the  labor  is  less,  the  results 
are  more  likely  to  be  satisfactory,  and  as  a  general  thing 
the  plants  grown  in  this  way  are  quite  as  early  in 
flowering  as  those  which  have  been  started  in  boxes 
or  pots,  even  if  they  have  had  the  proper  'kind  of 
treatment.  This  being  the  case,  I  cannot  see  that 
one  gains  by  starting  plants  in  the  house. 


GARDEN      MAKING      AND      SEED      SOWING  21$ 

In  making  beds  in  which  to  grow  flowering  plants, 
I  would  never  try  to  carry  out  elaborate  designs.  You 
want  the  flowers  for  their  individual  beauty,  I  take 
it,  and  so  long  as  this  is  secured  it  matters  little 
what  the  shape  of  the  bed  is.  If  you  want  beds  in 
which  to  carry  out  schemes  of  color,  or  produce  strik- 
ing effects  in  outline  or  pattern  work  do  not  make 
use  of  flowering  plants,  but  use  such  plants  as  the 
Coleus,  Golden  Pyrethrum,  Centaurea,  Achyranthes, 
Alternanthera  and  the  like,  in  them.  You  can  do  this, 
with  them,  without  sacrificing  the  beauty  or  dignity  of 
flowers,  for  the  effect  aimed  at  will  be  supplied  by 
the  foliage  of  the  plants  used. 

Have  your  beds  so  that  you  can  work  among  them 
conveniently  without  being  obliged  to  get  into  them. 
A  long  narrow  bed  is  more  easily  taken  care  of  than 
a  wide  or  round  one. 

Do  not  attempt  more  than  you  can  carry  out. 
Always  remember  that  a  few  flowers,  well  grown,  are 
vastly  more  satisfactory  than  a  great  number  of  infe- 
rior ones.  Aim  to  grow  only  good  ones.  Do  not  have 
many  kinds  if  you  have  but  little  time  or  space  at 
your  disposal.  Get  those  which  you  know  to  be  good, 
rather  than  the  "novelties"  which  may  be  worth  grow- 
ing, but  which  you  don't  know  to  be  so.  Buy  seed  of 
a  reliable  dealer  always,  if  it  costs  more  than  that 
offered  by  dealers  you  know  nothing  of.  In  this,  as 
in  other  things,  the  "best  is  the  cheapest"  in  the  end. 


CHAPTER    XXXIX 

THE     BEST    ANNUALS 

Below  I  give  a  list  of  the  best  annuals  for  general 
cultivation.  It  will  not  be  understood,  I  trust,  that 
because  I  have  not  named  more  of  those  described  in 
the  catalogs,  these  are  the  only  ones  worth  growing. 
There  are  dozens  of  good  kinds  which  I  have  not 
mentioned.  I  have  selected  these  because  I  know  the 
amateur  will  be  sure  of  success  with  them  if  he  gives 
them  proper  care,  and  because  they  are  such  kinds  as 
will  give  the  greatest  amount  of  pleasure  with  the 
smallest  amount  of  labor. 

Sweet  Pea — One  of  the  most  delightful  of  all 
flowers.  No  garden  can  afford  to  be  without  it. 

Petunia — One  of  the  "old  standbys" ;  a  great 
bloomer,  and  one  of  the  all-the-season  flowers,  bloom- 
ing from  June  to  the  coming  of  severe  frosts.  The 
colors  are  mostly  shades  of  crimson  and  violet,  very 
rich  and  brilliant.  Some  varieties  are  rose-colored, 
and  some  white,  while  others  show  combinations  of 
all  the  colors  of  the  family ;  one  of  the  best  plants 
we  have  for  massing;  most  effective  when  grown  in 
beds  by  itself. 

Phlox — This  is  the  grand  flower  for  giving  a  solid 
color  effect.  Its  flowers  literally  cover  the  beds  with 
their  brilliant  hues.  It  comes  in  pink,  crimson,  violet, 
carmine  and  pure  white.  It  is  a  wonderful  bloomer, 
and  will  continue  till  very  late  in  the  season  if  it  is 
kept  from  perfecting  seed.  In  sowing  seed  of  it,  I 
would  advise  keeping  each  color  by  itself  in  the  bed. 
If  mixed,  the  effect  is  too  bizarre  to  be  pleasing.  A 
fine  effect  is  produced  by  massing  the  pink  varieties 
and  using  the  white  kinds  as  a  border. 


THE     BEST     ANNUALS  217 

Nasturtium — This  is  a  very  richly  colored  flower, 
mostly  in  shades  of  yellow  and  crimson.  It  is  a  great 
bloomer  and  a  strong  grower.  Its  foliage  is  a  light 
green,  which  contrasts  well  with  the  bright,  rich 
blossoms. 

Calliopsis — This  is  the  most  useful  flower  for 
producing  strong  and  rich  effects.  The  colors  range 
through  yellow  and  maroon  and  are  very  fine.  A 
bed  of  it  is  a  most  gorgeous  sight  when  seen  in  sun- 
shine. Fine  for  cutting. 

Aster — This  is  one  of  the  best  of  all  annuals,  and 
the  very  best  for  fall  use,  as  it  does  not  come  into 
bloom  until  late  in  the  season.  It  is  quite  as  fine  in 
form  as  the  popular  Chrysanthemum,  which  some 
varieties  of  it  resemble  so  closely  that  they  are  often 
sold  for  the  latter.  It  comes  in  shades  of  rose,  crim- 
son, violet,  blue  and  pure  white,  and  some  varieties 
combine  two  or  more  of  these  colors  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  give  a  very  striking  flower.  The  catalogs  give 
a  long  list  of  sorts,  all  of  which  are  good.  I  prefer 
to  buy  packets  of  seeds  in  which  each  color  is  by  itself, 
rather  than  the  mixed  ones,  because  it  is  easier  to 
produce  fine  effects  with  masses  of  one  color  than  it 
is  where  all  colors  are  jumbled  up  together.  This 
holds  good  with  any  flower. 

Pansy — Everyone  must  have  a  bed  of  this  mag- 
nificent flower ;  nothing  equals  it  in  richness  of  coloring 
or  variety;  royal  purple,  yellow,  blue,  black,  white, 
copper — there  is  no  end  to  the  list  of  shades  combined 
in  the  beautiful  flowers  which  it  gives  us  until  snow 
comes.  If  you  can  have  but  one  flower  in  your  summer 
garden  let  it  be  the  Pansy. 

Balsam — A  most  excellent  plant,  bearing  great 
quantities  of  rose-like  flowers,  in  rich  shades  of  red, 
purple,  pink  and  white ;  no  garden  complete  without  it. 


2l8  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

Ageratum — A  fine  lavender-blue  flower ;  very  use- 
ful for  cutting ;  a  profuse  and  constant  bloomer. 

Celosia — A  most  peculiar  plant,  with  "combs"  of 
brilliant  crimson,  scarlet  and  yellow ;  some  varieties 
have  a  feathery  effect  from  the  peculiar  divisions  of 
the  "comb." 

Dianthus — The  Chinese  Pink;  a  most  profuse 
bloomer,  running  through  almost  all  colors ;  very  fine. 

Delphinium — Better  known  as  Larkspur ;  charm- 
ing plants  for  using  in  the  background,  on  account  of 
their  tall  habit. 

Portulaca — A  vegetable  salamander,  enjoying  our 
hottest  weather,  and  doing  its  best  under  a  scorching 
sun ;  in  almost  all  colors ;  a  low  grower ;  excellent  for 
beds  near  the  house  or  path. 

Stock — More  usually  called  Gillyflower ;  a  most 
excellent  flower,  coming  in  various  shades  of  red,  blue, 
lilac,  yellow  and  pure  white;  fragrant;  fine  for  cut- 
ting ;  a  late  bloomer. 

Zinnia — A  strong-growing  plant,  the  larger  varie- 
ties well  adapted  for  back  rows;  quite  like  a  Dahlia  in 
form,  very  double,  and  coming  in  a  great  variety  of 
most  brilliant  colors. 

Other  good  annuals  are: 

Scabiosa.  Godetia. 

Salpiglossis.  Eschscholtzia. 

Whitlavia.  Gaillardia. 

Schizanthus.  Calendula. 

Poppy.  Centaurea. 

Nierembergia.  Cacalia. 

Mirabilis.  Antirrhinum. 

Lupine.  Nicotiana. 

Myosotis.  Snapdragon. 

Plants  for  edging : 

Candytuft — A  low-growing  plant,  bearing  a  pro- 


THE      BEST      ANNUALS 

fusion  of  white  and  purple  flowers ;  very  pretty  as  an 
edging  for  beds  containing  taller  flowers. 

Sweet  Alyssum — Another  good  edging  plant;  a 
profuse  bloomer,  with  white  flowers;  very  sweet,  and 
excellent  for  cutting. 

Mignonette — Delightfully  fragrant,  and  having 
very  pretty,  if  not  showy  flowers ;  one  of  the  most 
useful  of  all  plants  for  bouquet  use. 

Lobelia — A  charming  little  thing ;  blue  and  white ; 
compact  grower  and  great  bloomer. 

Fhzvering   Vines 

Morning  Glory — One  of  the  best  plants  we  have 
for  covering  screens,  and  training  over  doors  and 
windows.  Exceedingly  profuse  in  bloom  and  rich  and 
varied  in  coloring. 

Sweet  Pea — Not  a  tall  grower,  but  sufficiently  so 
to  be  of  use  in  covering  low  screens  and  fences. 

Japan  Hops — A  very  pretty  vine  of  rapid  growth, 
having  dark  and  gray-green  foliage  variegated  with 
white. 

Flowering  Bean — An  old  favorite  which  has  been 
allowed  to  drop  out  of  notice,  but  whose  merits  are 
bringing  it  again  to  notice.  Rich  scarlet  flowers,  as 
vivid  as  those  of  a  Geranium. 

Cypress — A  very  beautiful  vine  of  delicate  habit, 
with  finely-cut  foliage  and  bright  scarlet  flowers. 

Gourds- — Rank,  strong-growing  vines,  useful  for 
covering  summer  houses  and  outbuildings.  Valuable 
chiefly  because  of  their  exceedingly  rapid  growth. 
An  effective  planting  of  annual  vines  is  seen  in  Fig  54. 

I  want  to  give  "special  mention"  to  a  few  flowers 
named  in  the  above  lists,  because  of  their  great  merit. 
One  of  these  is  the  Aster.  Because  of  its  great  florif- 
erousness,  and  its  habit  of  flowering  after  most  other 


THE      BEST      ANNUALS  221 

plants  have  passed  their  prime,  it  has  long  been  a 
general  favorite.  But  those  who  are  familiar  only 
with  the  popular  varieties  of  five  or  six  years  ago 
have  no  idea  of  the  perfection  to  which  our  florists 
have  carried  this  plant  in  their  improvement  of  old 
strains.  The  Branching  Aster,  the  Comet  and  the 
Ostrich  Feather  sorts  are  as  beautiful  as  any  Chrys- 
anthemum, and,  in  fact,  they  so  closely  resemble 
some  varieties  of  that  favorite  flower  that  they  are 
often  mistaken  for  them.  They  are  large  in  size,  deli- 
cately, as  well  as  brilliantly,  beautiful  in  coloring,  and 
have  such  long  flower  stalks  that  they  are  better 
adapted  for  cutting  than  any  other  annual  except  the 
Sweet  Pea.  They  last  for  two  weeks,  when  used  in 
vases,  if  the  water  in  which  they  stand  is  changed 
occasionally.  The  pale  pinks  and  lavenders  are 
especially  lovely  because  of  their  delicate  daintiness 
of  color. 

The  Sweet  Pea  of  to-day  is  another  most  lovely 
flower.  Such  exquisite  combinations  of  color,  such 
long-stalked  blossoms,  and  such  general  all-around 
excellence,  the  old  Sweet  Pea  never  thought  of  laying 
claim  to.  To  grow  this  plant  well,  it  must  be  got  into 
the  ground  very  early  in  the  season — in  April,  if  pos- 
sible. Do  not  wait  for  warm  weather,  but  sow  the  seed 
as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked  with  spade  and 
hoe.  Make  V-shaped  trenches  at  least  six  inches  deep, 
and  scatter  the  seed  thickly  in  them.  Then  cover 
lightly.  When  the  plants  have  grown  to  be  three 
inches  high,  draw  in  a  little  of  the  soil  thrown  out  from 
the  trench,  and  work  it  well  about  the  plants,  taking 
care  to  not  injure  them  in  the  operation.  By  and  by, 
when  they  have  made  a  few  more  inches  of  growth, 
fill  in  with  more  soil,  and  keep  on  doing  this,  from 
time  to  time,  until  all  the  soil  taken  from  the  trench 
has  been  returned  to  it.  In  this  way  we  get  the  roots 


222  HOME    FLORICULTURE 

of  the  plant  down  deep  in  the  ground,  where  they  will 
be  cool  and  moist  during  dry,  hot  weather.  Allow  no 
seed  to  form  on  your  plants,  if  you  want  them  to 
bloom  during  the  entire  season. 

Another  most  excellent  plant  for  late  flowering 
is  the  Marguerite  Carnation.  Plants  from  seed  sown 
in  the  garden  will  not  come  into  bloom  before  October, 
but  early-sown  plants  will  begin  to  bloom  in  August. 
In  size  and  richness  of  color,  and  delightful  fragrance, 
this  strain  equals  the  greenhouse  Carnation,  and  it  is 
wonderfully  floriferous.  Plants  can  be  potted  in  fall, 
and  made  to  bloom  throughout  the  winter  in  the 
window  garden;  where  they  will  give  better  satisfac- 
tion than  any  of  the  greenhouse  varieties. 

The  Poppy  of  the  present  is  a  most  magnificent 
flower.  It  comes  in  a  wide  range  of  colors,  and  makes 
the  garden  gorgeous  with  its  brilliance  for  many 
weeks  during  the  summer  months.  Where  masses  of 
solid  color  are  desired,  the  best  annuals  to  use  are  Phlox 
Drummondi,  in  rose-color,  white  and  pale  yellow,  Petu- 
nias in  various  colors,  and  Calliopsis.  These  for  large 
beds,  with  Candytuft  or  Sweet  Alyssum  as  edging. 

What  striking  effects  can  be  produced  by  the 
means  of  inexpensive  annuals  is  shown  in  Fig  55 ;  the 
principal  plants  being  Cosmos,  Castor  Bean  and  Morn- 
ing Glory. 


CHAPTER    XL 

BEDDING    PLANTS    AND    PLANTS    FOR    TROPICAL    EFFECT 

Where  striking  and  peculiar  effects  are  desired  it 
has  become  customary  to  make  use  of  what  florists 
term  bedding  plants  in  summer  gardening.  The  term 
is  used  to  designate  such  kinds  of  greenhouse  plants 
as  bloom  well  when  planted  out  in  beds,  or  have  foliage 
whose  colors  take  the  place  of  flowers. 

The  Geranium  stands  at  the  head  of  the  list.  A 
garden  without  at  least  one  bed  of  Geraniums  is  seldom 
seen  nowadays.  No  other  "bedder"  gives  such  a  bril- 
liant show  of  color,  or  keeps  up  such  constant  bloom 
throughout  the  season.  All  you  have  to  do  to  keep  a 
Geranium  blooming  from  June  to  frost,  is  to  remove 
the  flowers  as  they  fade  and  prevent  the  formation 
of  seed.  The  double  kinds  are  most  popular  for  bed- 
ding, as  the  flowers  last  longer  and  give  a  more  solid 
color  effect.  The  colors  are  so  varied  that  you  might 
have  a  dozen  beds,  each  wholly  unlike  the  other  in 
that  respect. 

Tuberous  Begonias  are  becoming  very  popular  for 
bedding  purposes.  They  are  rich  in  color,  and  produce 
a  fine  effect. 

The  Bouvardia  is  good  for  use  in  the  garden,  and 
will  be  found  especially  desirable  for  cutting  from.  So 
will  the  Carnation. 

The  Calceolaria  is  much  used  in  "ribbon"  garden- 
ing, and  in  working  out  patterns  in  flowers. 

Heliotrope  is  an  excellent  bedder,  flowering  very 
freely  in  a  rich  soil.  This,  like  the  Bouvardia,  will  be 
found  very  useful  to  cut  from. 

The  Lantana  is  a  profuse  and  constant  bloomer, 
and  is  very  popular. 


BEDDING       PLANTS  225 

The  Verbena  is  one  of  the  best  of  all  bedders, 
being  a  very  free  and  constant  bloomer,  and  having 
intensely  rich  and  beautiful  colors. 

Tea  Roses  deserve  a  place  in  every  garden,  and 
will  be  spoken  of,  at  greater  length,  in  another  chapter. 

Among  foliage  plants,  the  most  popular  is  the 
Coleus.  Very  striking  results  can  be  brought  about 
by  its  use.  By  planting  it  close  together  and  keeping 
the  plants  cut  in  closely,  solid  effects  of  color  can  be 
obtained.  The  colors  being  so  varied,  and  so  distinct, 
it  is  much  used  in  carpet  bedding  in  which  a  set  pattern 
is  worked  out. 

The  Achyranthes  and  Alternanthera  are  brilliant 
little  plants  which  bear  cutting  in  and  trimming  well, 
and  therefore  are  extensively  used  in  producing  "pat- 
tern" effects. 

The  Centaurea  has  a  soft  gray  leaf,  which  con- 
trasts well  with  the  Coleus,  and  is  used  in  connection 
with  it. 

Golden  Feverfew  is  also  used  extensively  for 
bedding  purposes. 

All  the  plants  named,  except  Achyranthes  and 
Alternanthera,  should  be  set  one  foot  apart.  These 
should  be  six  inches  apart. 

Rapid  growers  must  be  trimmed  frequently  to 
keep  them  from  getting  the  start  of  such  kinds  as 
are  of  slower  growth,  in  order  to  produce  satisfactory 
results  in  carpet  bedding.  You  want  a  smooth,  even 
surface,  in  which  all  the  colors  have  a  chance  to 
equally  display  themselves. 

In  choosing  "designs"  do  not  make  the  mistake  of 
selecting  intricate  or  elaborate  ones.  Leave  them  to 
the  professional  gardener.  Simple  effects,  depending 
largely  on  broad  contrasts  of  color  rather  than  on 
complexity  of  "pattern"  for  effectiveness,  are  much 
better  adapted  to  the  amateur's  use. 


PLANTS      FOR      TROPICAL      EFFECT  227 

One  of  the  best  plants  for  producing  a  tropical 
effect  on  the  lawn,  or  in  the  garden,  is  the  Ricinus,  or 
Castor  oil  plant  (Fig  56).  It  can  be  grown  from  seed. 
It  has  immense  palmate  foliage,  of  a  rich  green,  shaded 
with  red,  with  a  metallic  luster  when  looked  at  in  the 
sun.  It  grows  to  be  eight  or  nine  feet  high,  branching 
freely.  It  is  excellent  for  the  center  of  a  circular  bed. 

Another  plant  with  large  and  striking  foliage  is 
Caladium  esculentiim.  It  often  has  leaves  two  feet  or 
more  across  and  four  in  length  when  grown  in  very 
rich  soil,  each  leaf  being  produced  on  a  stalk  sent  up 
from  the  tuber.  Fine  for  grouping  about  the  Ricinus. 

The  Canna  is  a  noble  plant,  with  large  rich  foliage 
ranging  through  various  shades  of  green  and  bronzy- 
red.  Some  varieties  are  tall  growers,  while  others  are 
quite  dwarf.  In  addition  to  its  fine  foliage  it  bears 
very  brilliant  flowers  in  autumn,  somewhat  resembling 
the  Gladiolus  in  shape  and  color. 

The  Musa  Ensete,  or  Banana  Plant,  has  very  large 
leaves  and  is  excellent  for  the  center  of  a  circular  bed. 

If  one  has  a  greenhouse,  there  will  be  many  plants 
such  as  Palms,  Pandanus  or  Screw  Pine,  Ficus  and 
others  of  a  similar  habit,  which  can  be  put  out  of  doors 
in  summer  with  advantage  to  the  plants.  These  can 
be  used  in  helping  to  produce  tropical  effects. 

The  Striped  Maize — a  variegated  variety  of  Corn 
— can  be  used  with  excellent  results  if  several  stalks 
are  allowed  to  grow  together.  Its  foliage  is  very  much 
like  the  old  "Ribbon  Grass,"  though  of  course  on  a 
much  larger  scale.  It  should  be  planted  in  "hills,"  like 
the  common  Corn,  one  stalk  not  being  sufficient  to 
bring  out  the  desired  effect.  As  a  plant  to  be  used  in 
the  center  of  a  group  it  is  very  desirable. 

Fine  effects  are  secured  by  the  use  of  the  Ribbon 
Grass  mentioned  in  the  preceding  paragraph,  in  con- 
nection with  Cannas  and  Coleus.  Planted  about  a 


228 


HOME       FLORICULTURE 


group  of  Cannas,  with  dark  scarlet  Coleus  in  front 
of  it,  its  green  and  white  coloring  comes  out  with 
charming  effect.  . 

The  Eulalias    (Fig  57),   and  other  tall-growing 
grasses,  ought  to  be  used  more  extensively  in  garden- 


FIG    57 — THE    EULALIA    OR    ZEBRA    GRASS 


ing,  in  combination  with  other  plants.  Their  habit  is  so 
distinct  and  graceful  that  the  use  of  them  amon«; 
plants  of  heavy  foliage  furnishes  a  contrast  which 
hightens  the  beauty  of  both.  The  taller  sorts  are 


PLANTS      FOR      TROPICAL      EFFECT 


229 


extremely  effective  when  used  in  large  clumps,  as  the 
center  of  a  circular  bed,  surrounded  by  Caladiums, 
Cannas  and  plants  of  that  character. 

.  The  various  species  of  Yucca,  or  Adam's  Needle, 
when  planted   in   picturesque   surroundings,   produce 


FIG  58 — YUCCA  FILAMENTOSA  IN  CENTRAL   PARK,   NEW  YORK  CITY 

highly  striking  and  pleasing  effects.  The  species  most 
generally  used  at  the  North  is  Yucca  filament os a.  It 
is  perfectly  hardy  in  the  Middle  States  and  farther 
north.  An  effective  style  of  planting  is  shown  in 
Fig  58. 


CHAPTER     XLI 


TEA    ROSES    FOR    BEDS 

No  part  of  my  garden  affords  me  more  pleasure 
than  my  bed  of  Tea  Roses.  I  cut  dozens  of  flowers 
from  it  nearly  every  day  from  June  to  the  coming  of 
cold  weather,  for  buttonhole  and  corsage  bouquets, 
and  for  use  on  the  table,  and  in  the  parlor.  One  fine 
Rose  and  a  bit  of  foliage  is  a  bouquet  in  itself.  If  I 
could  have  but  one  bed  of  flowers  it  should  be  a  bed 
of  Tea  Roses — and  yet,  I  should  want  a  bed  of  Pansies 
to  supplement  the  Roses;  therefore,  a  bed  of  each 
would  be  a  necessity. 

If  you  want  to  give  a  friend  a  buttonhole  nosegay 
that  shall  be  "just  as  pretty  as  it  can  be,"  you  must 
have  a  bed  of  these  Roses  to  draw  from.  A  half-blown 
flower  of  Meteor,  with  its  velvety,  crimson  petals,  and 
a  bud  of  Perle  des  Jardins,  just  showing  its  golden 
heart,  with  a  leaf  or  two  of  green  to  set  off  the  flowers 
— what  a  lovely  harmony  of  rich  color!  Or,  if  your 
taste  inclines  you  to  more  delicate  colors,  take  a  bud 
of  Luciole,  and  a  Catherine  Mermet  when  its  petals  are 
just  falling  apart.  Nothing  can  be  lovelier,  you  think, 
till  you  have  put  a  half  open  Perle  des  Jardins  with 
a  dark  purple  or  azure-blue  Pansy.  When  you  have 
done  that  you  are  charmed  with  the  manner  in  which 
the  two  colors  harmonize  and  intensify  each  other, 
and  you  are  sure  there  was  never  anything  finer  for 
a  flower-lover  to  feast  his  eyes  on.  Put  a  tawny 
Safrano  or  Sunset  bud  with  a  purple  Pansy  and  see 
what  a  royal  combination  of  colors  you  have  in  the 
simple  arrangement.  Be  sure  and  have  a  bed  of  Tea 
Roses,  and  make  combinations  to  suit  yourself. 


FIG   59— TEA   ROSE,   CATHERINE   MERMET 


232  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

In  order  to  make  a  success  of  your  bed  of  Tea 
Roses — though  perhaps  I  ought  to  say  ever-bloomers, 
for  probably  your  selection  will  include  other  varieties 
than  the  Tea — you  must  have  a  rich  soil  for  them  to 
grow  in.  When  a  branch  has  borne  flowers,  it  must 
be  cut  back  to  some  strong  bud.  This  bud  will,  if  your 
soil  is  rich  enough  to  encourage  vigorous  growth,  soon 
become  a  branch,  and  produce  flowers.  It  is  by  con- 
stant cutting  back  that  you  secure  new  growth,  if  the 
soil  is  in  a  condition  to  help  it  along,  and  only  by 
securing  this  steady  production  and  development  of 
new  branches  can  you  expect  many  flowers.  All 
depends  on  that.  If  proper  treatment  is  given  you 
need  not  be  without  flowers — unless  you  cut  them  all 
— from  June  to  October. 

I  give  a  list  of  some  of  the  most  desirable  varieties 
for  planting  out  in  summer : 

Catherine  Mermet  (Fig  59),  flesh  color,  with 
large  flowers  and  beautiful  buds;  very  sweet;  a  good 
bloomer,  and  always  a  favorite. 

Cornelia  Cook,  white;  fine  in  flower,  but  most 
pleasing  when  buds  are  just  opening;  free. 

Duchesse  de  Brabrant,  rosy  carmine;  very  fine. 

Douglas,  velvety  crimson ;  a  lovely  flower. 

Etoile  de  Lyon,  golden  yellow  flowers,  produced 
with  great  freedom ;  a  superior  sort. 

Hermosa,  bright  pink;  very  full  and  fragrant;  a 
constant  bloomer ;  one  of  the  old  standbys. 

Marie  Guillot,  white;  delicately  tinged  with 
cream;  exquisite. 

La  France,  hybrid  tea;  a  most  lovely  flower,  of 
pale,  silvery  rose ;  very  large ;  full  and  deliciously  fra- 
grant; one  of  the  most  popular  of  all  roses,  and 
justly  so. 

Papa  Gontier,  large  flower,  with  fine  buds; 
carmine. 


TEA       ROSES       FOR       BEDS  233 

Saf rano,  yellow,  shaded  with  apricot ;  an  old  rose, 
but  none  the  worse  for  that. 

American  Beauty,  the  rose  which  created  such  a 
furore  a  few  years  ago;  immense  flower;  beautiful  in 
bud  and  when  fully  expanded ;  rich  crimson. 

Duchess  of  Edinburgh,  intensely  rich  crimson; 
fine. 

Madame  Welche,  yellow,  shaded  with  copper ; 
fine. 

Niphetos,  pure  white;  long,  pointed  buds;  excel- 
lent for  cutting  before  the  flowers  are  open. 

Perle  des  Jardins,  one  of  the  best;  almost  as 
desirable  as  Marechal  Niel,  which  it  resembles  so 
closely  that  it  is  often  sold  for  it  by  florists  who  do 
not  hesitate  to  deceive  a  customer  for  the  sake  of 
making  a  sale ;  large ;  finely  formed ;  a  profuse  bloomer 
and  very  sweet. 

Meteor,  velvety  scarlet;  very  dark,  and  delight- 
fully fragrant. 

Sunset,  tawny  yellow ;  sweet ;  a  fine  rose,  resem- 
bling Perle  des  Jardins,  from  which  it  is  a  sport,  in 
form  and  habit. 

Pierre  Guillot,  dazzling  crimson;  very  fine;  large 
flower;  fragrant. 

Vicomtesse  de  Wautier,  rose,  tinted  with  yellow; 
extra. 

Jules  Finger,  rosy  scarlet,  shading  to  crimson; 
good  bloomer. 

Melville,  silvery  rose. 

If  I  were  to  name  all  the  desirable  varieties  I 
might  fill  several  pages  with  the  list.  Look  over  the 
catalogs  of  the  florists  and  you  will  see  that  the 
variety  is  almost  endless.  If  you  do  not  care  to  invest 
money  enough  to  secure  the  newer  varieties,  tell  the 
dealer  to  whom  you  give  your  patronage  what  you 
want  the  plants  for,  and  he  will  make  a  selection 


234  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

which  will  include  some  of  the  best  kinds,  and  which 
will  be  sure  to  give  you  as  good  satisfaction  as  you 
would  get  from  a  selection  of  your  own.  Better,  in 
most  instances,  for  you  would  make  your  selection 
from  the  description  in  the  catalog,  while  he  would 
select  from  his  knowledge  of  the  merits  of  the  flower. 
By  all  means  have  a  bed  of  these  most  sweet  and 
lovely  Roses.  If  the  season  happens  to  be  a  hot  and 
dry  one,  mulch  your  rose  bed  with  grass  clippings 
from  the  lawn.  Spread  them  evenly  about  the  plants, 
to  a  depth  of  two  or  three  inches,  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  cover  the  entire  bed.  By  so  doing,  you  prevent 
rapid  evaporation  and  the  roots  of  the  plants  are  kept 
much  cooler  than  when  strong  sunshine  is  allowed  to 
beat  down  upon  the  surface  of  the  bed.  When  the 
mulch  begins  to  decay,  remove  it,  and  apply  fresh 
clippings.  About  the  middle  of  the  season,  give  the 
soil  a  liberal  dressing  of  fine  bone  meal,  working  it 
in  well  about  the  roots  of  the  plants,  or,  if  you  can 
get  it,  use  old  cow  manure.  Whatever  you  apply,  be 
sure  it  gets  where  the  roots  can  make  use  of  it. 


CHAPTER     XLII 


THE    DAHLIA 

Of  late  years  the  old,  very  double  Dahlia  has 
lost  something  of  the  popularity  it  used  to  enjoy; 
not  because  it  is  not  still  considered  a  most  desirable 
flower  for  the  garden,  but  because  it  has  failed  so  often 
to  give  satisfaction  that  amateurs  have  begun  to  con- 
sider it  a  difficult  matter  to  grow  it  well.  This  failure 
is  attributable  more  to  our  hot,  dry  seasons,  several 
of  which  we  have  had  in  succession,  than  to  any  other 
cause,  for  this  flower  is  fond  of  moisture  at  its  roots, 
and  must  have  it  in  order  to  do  well,  and  a  hot  sun 
seems  to  depress  it  when  the  soil  it  is  growing  in  is 
dry.  A  warm  summer  suits  it  well  if  we  have  plenty 
of  wet  weather  along  with  the  heat.  Another  cause 
of  failure  is  the  shortness  of  our  northern  season.  If 
we  would  have  many  flowers  from  it  we  must  give 
the  plants  an  early  start.  If  this  is  not  done  they 
will  not  come  into  bloom  till  late.  They  will  be  ready 
for  the  best  work  of  the  season  about  the  time  frost 
comes. 

I  aim  to  get  my  Dahlias  well  under  way  in  April. 
I  plant  the  tubers  in  good  compost,  in  old  boxes,  and 
in  a  few  days  sprouts  will  start.  I  am  careful  to  give 
them  all  the  fresh  air  possible  to  prevent  them  from 
sending  up  weak  and  spindling  stalks.  I  put  them 
out  in  the  sun,  on  warm  days,  and  give  only  moderate 
amounts  of  water,  aiming  to  secure  a  steady,  healthy 
growth  instead  of  a  rapid  one.  It  is  not  large  plants 
that  you  want  at  planting-out  time  so  much  as  strong 
and  vigorous  ones.  A  plant  that  has  been  forced  to 
a  too  rapid  growth  will  suffer  from  the  change  when 


236  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

you  come  to  put  it  in  the  open  ground,  because  its 
vitality  is  low,  while  a  strong,  sturdy  plant  will  not 
seem  to  mind  the  change  at  all. 

The  Dahlia  is  a  very  tender  plant,  and  therefore 
easily  affected  by  cold  nights  and  chilly  weather.  On 
this  account  it  ought  not  to  be  planted  out  until  you 
are  sure  that  there  will  be  no  frost  at  night,  and  that 
the  days  will  be  likely  to  remain  warm.  A  continued 
low  temperature  often  seems  to  injure  it  almost  as 
much  as  a  nipping  frost.  I  do  not  dare  put  my  plants 
out  before  the  first  of  June. 

This  plant  is  a  great  eater.  It  likes  food  in 
large  quantities,  and  it  cannot  be  too  rich.  It  is  also  a 
great  drinker,  and  in  order  to  secure  the  best  results 
food  and  drink  must  go  together  in  liberal  quantities. 

In  preparing  the  garden  for  it,  dig  out  the  soil 
where  it  is  to  stand  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  and  a  half, 
and  put  a  liberal  amount  of  rich  manure  in  the  bottom 
of  the  hole.  Make  the  soil  in  which  you  set  the  plants 
light  and  mellow.  Water  well  when  you  put  them 
out.  If  the  weather  is  suitable  to  their  needs,  they 
will  go  on  growing  as  if  nothing  had  happened.  One 
tuber,  with  a  strong  stalk  attached,  is  as  good  as  a 
half  dozen,  if  not  better.  It  will  make  a  large  plant 
by  midsummer. 

As  soon  as  the  stalk  begins  to  make  rapid  growth, 
set  a  stout  stake  by  it,  and  keep  the  plant  well  tied  up 
to  prevent  injury  from  storms  and  winds.  Being 
extremely  brittle,  the  stalks  are  easily  broken. 

When  the  plant  begins  to  branch  out,  begin  to  give 
water  at  least  three  times  a  week.  Save  all  the  slops 
and  wash  water.  Give  each  plant  enough  to  soak  the 
soil  thoroughly  about  its  roots.  It  will  be  thankful  for 
anything  you  give  it  which  contains  any  element  of 
plant  food,  and  make  rapid  development.  Grow  a 
plant  in  this  way  and  note  the  difference  between  it 


FIG    60 — TYPES    OF    SINGLE    DAHLIAS 


238  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

and  plants  you  have  seen  "taking  their  chances"  in 
a  dry  season.  Under  this  treatment  it  will  begin  to 
bloom  in  July,  and  you  will  get  large  crops  of  fine 
flowers  in  August  and  September.  You  get  the  start 
of  the  frost. 

The  Dahlia  is  divided  into  five  classes.  The 
"Show"  Dahlia  is  the  one  most  generally  cultivated. 
The  "Bedding"  Dahlia  is  a  dwarf  variety,  growing 
only  about  two  feet  high,  but  having  flowers  quite  as 
large  as  those  of  the  tall-growing  kinds.  The  "Bou- 
quet" Dahlia  has  small  flowers,  as  perfect  in  form  as 
the  large  ones.  The  Single  Dahlia  (Fig  60),  which 
is  very  popular  at  present,  being  easier  to  succeed 
with  than  the  double  kinds,  is  very  rich  in  color, 
much  more  graceful  in  appearance  than  the  double 
sorts,  which  have  a  good  deal  of  primness  about  them, 
and  is  very  useful  for  cutting  for  vases  and  corsage 
bouquets.  The  fifth  class  is  a  comparatively  new  one, 
and  has  been  evolved  from  the  "Cactus"  variety  which 
enjoyed  great  popularity  a  few  years  ago.  It  is  known 
as  the  Decorative  Dahlia.  Its  flowers  are  of  good  size, 
borne  well  above  the  foliage,  on  long  stems.  On  this 
account  it  is  excellent  for  cut  flower  use.  Most  varie- 
ties are  double  or  semi-double,  but  they  are  never  prim 
and  formal  in  the  arrangement  of  their  petals,  like  the 
old  "Show  Dahlia."  Because  of  their  more  graceful 
appearance  they  are  rapidly  becoming  general  favor- 
ites. Another  point  in  their  favor  is  they  come  into 
bloom  earlier  than  the  older  varieties  and  are  therefore 
better  adapted  to  garden  use.  For  cutting,  they  are 
extremely  popular,  because  of  their  rich  coloring, 
graceful  habit  and  lasting  qualities.  Where  large 
flowers  are  desirable,  they  are  unexcelled  in  the  decora- 
tion of  rooms,  as  their  strong  colors  bring  them  out 
prominently  against  whatever  is  used  as  a  background. 


THE      DAHLIA  239 

If  sheets  are  thrown  over  the  plants  in  fall,  when 
frosty  nights  come,  the  season  of  blooming  can  be 
prolonged  considerably,  for  they  will  go  on  flowering 
till  killed.  The  cool  weather  of  autumn  gives  us  some 
very  fine  flowers  from  the  Dahlia. 

After  a  frost  has  turned  the  tops  of  the  plants 
black  cut  them  off,  and  on  a  sunny,  warm  day  lift  the 
roots,  and  let  them  lie  in  the  sunshine  till  the  earth 
will  crumble  from  them  readily.  Cover  at  night,  but 
expose  to  the  effects  of  the  sun  again  next  day. 
Repeat  this  for  two  or  three  days,  then  store  away  in 
the  cellar  where  they  will  keep  cool  and  dry.  They 
can  be  kept  safely  where  a  Potato  winters  well. 

It  is  hardly  worth  while  to  give  a  list  of  desirable 
sorts  in  a  book  like  this,  as  new  ones  are  being 
added  each  year,  and  old  ones  are  being  dropped,  as 
newcomers  supplant  them  in  merit.  Consult  the  cata- 
logs of  the  florists,  and  select  to  suit  your  taste,  in 
regard  to  color  and  class.  But — be  sure  to  have  at 
least  half  a  dozen  of  them,  if  you  want  your  garden 
beautiful  after  the  annuals  have  completed  their  work 
for  the  season.  Typical  forms  of  double  Dahlias  are 
seen  in  Fig  61. 


FIG    6 1 — TYPES    OF    DOUBLE    DAHLIAS 


CHAPTER    XLIII 

THE    TUBEROSE    AND    GLADIOLUS 

The  Tuberose  is  a  lovely  fall-blooming  plant, 
but  it  is  seldom  seen  growing  in  the  garden,  for 
the  idea  prevails  that  it  cannot  be  grown  there  suc- 
cessfully, at  least  by  the  amateur.  This  is  not  true.  It 
can  easily  be  grown  there  if  given  proper  culture. 

It  is  a  plant  which  requires  a  longer  season  than 
most  other  plants  of  its  class.  .  If  planted  out  in  June, 
or  at  the  coming  of  really  warm  weather,  it  will  not 
mature  its  flowers  before  late  in  September,  and  by 
that  time  we  are  pretty  sure  to  have  frosts  which  will 
kill  it,  as  it  is  very  tender.  The  proper  thing  to  do, 
then,  to  bring  it  to  perfection,  is  to  give  it  an  early  start 
in  spring,  thus  extending  the  season  and  giving  it  all 
the  time  it  needs. 

Get  your  bulbs  as  early  as  possible,  and  as  soon 
as  received  plant  them  in  small  pots,  in  a  light,  sandy 
compost.  Water  well  at  planting,  and  keep  in  a 
warm  place  till  they  begin  to  grow.  Then  remove  to 
a  sunny  window,  and  be  careful  about  giving  too  much 
water.  In  June  turn  them  out  of  their  pots  without 
disturbing  the  roots,  and  plant  in  a  rich,  light,  sandy 
soil  having  a  warm,  sunny  exposure.  Treated  in  this 
manner  Tuberoses  will  come  into  bloom  early  in 
September,  if  your  bulbs  are  strong  and  sound.  As 
a  bulb  blooms  but  once,  be  sure  that  you  get  good, 
blooming  bulbs.  Of  course  you  can't  tell  about  this 
by  the  looks  of  the  bulb,  but  if  you  buy  of  a  reliable 
dealer — and  you  should  patronize  no  other — you  can 
safely  trust  to  his  honesty  to  send  you  what  you  want. 

Before  planting  your  Tuberoses  take  a  sharp  knife 
and  cut  off  the  mass  of  old,  dried  roots  at  the  base 


FIG   62 — THE    PEARL   TUBEROSE 


THE      TUBEROSE      AND      GLADIOLUS  243 

of  the  bulb.  Cut  off  close  to  the  solid  portions.  They 
will  start  a  great  deal  sooner  if  you  do  this,  and  be 
much  surer  to  make  fine  plants.  If  this  is  not  done 
quite  often  the  old  roots  decay  and  communicate 
disease  to  the  bulb.  Most  persons  are  familiar  with 
this  flower  from  having  seen  it  in  cut  flower  work  from 
the  florists,  who  raise  it  extensively.  Its  blossoms  are 
thick  and  waxy  in  texture,  ivory  white  in  color,  and 
exquisitely  fragrant.  The  flowers  are  double,  and  are 
produced  in  spikes  about  a  foot  in  length,  on  stalks 
about  three  feet  tall.  The  best  variety  is  the  Pearl,  a 
spike  of  which  is  seen  in  Fig  62. 

The    Gladiolus 

This  is  the  best  of  all  the  summer-flowering  bulbs, 
all  things  considered.  It  is  to  the  amateur's  garden 
what  the  Geranium  is  to  his  window.  It  is  a  flower 
anybody  can  grow,  and  it  is  lovely  enough  to  satisfy 
the  most  exacting.  You  can  have  it  in  the  most 
delicate  colors  if  your  taste  runs  in  that  direction,  and 
you  can  have  it  in  colors  of  extreme  brilliancy  if  such 
colors  are  your  preference.  It  is  something  you  can 
depend  on  to  do  well  if  you  give  it  half  a  chance.  But 
the  better  you  care  for  it  the  better  it  will  do,  and  it 
pays  to  give  it  liberal  treatment. 

Of  late  much  attention  has  been  given  this  flower 
by  the  florists,  and  great  improvement  has  resulted. 
The  size  of  the  flower  has  been  increased,  its  colors 
intensified,  and  new  markings  and  combinations  of 
colors  of  wonderful  beauty  have  rewarded  the  skillful 
hybridizer.  It  deserves  a  place  in  every  collection. 

It  likes  a  soil  that  is  light,  mellow  and  rich.  Any 
soil  in  which  Corn  will  grow  well  suits  it.  And  it 
likes  to  be  planted  in  the  open  ground  about  the  time 
Corn  is  planted.  That  is  early  enough.  If  you  have 
bulbs  enousrh  to  warrant  you  in  doing  so,  hold  back 


244  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

some  for  planting  about  two  weeks  later,  By  making 
successive  plantings  you  can  prolong  the  season  for  a 
month  or  more,  thus  securing  fully  two  months'  dis- 
play of  beauty  from  this  charming  flower. 

I  prefer  to  plant  the  bulbs  in  clumps  or  masses. 
In  this  way  a  much  better  effect  is  secured  than  by 
planting  singly.  Try  it  once  and  you  will  never  care 
to  plant  bulbs  alone,  or  in  rows  again. 

Something  should  be  given  to  support  the  flower 
stalks  when  they  appear.  When  planted  in  clumps, 
half  a  dozen  bulbs  to  a  clump,  three  stakes  can  be  set 
to  which  a  hoop  of  wire  can  be  fastened.  By  passing 
strings  back  and  forth  among  the  stakes,  and  fastening 
them  to  the  wire,  all  the  support  needed  will  be  given, 
and  the  wire  and  strings  used  will  not  be  so  obtrusive 
as  to  be  unsightly.  This  method  of  support  is  much 
preferable  to  tying  the  stalks  to  sticks,  as  it  allows 
them  to  have  plenty  of  freedom,  thus  preventing  that 
stiff  effect  which  always  results  from  tying  up 
each  stalk. 

One  might  suppose,  from  the  great  popularity  of 
this  flower,  that  it  would  be  expensive.  Such  is  not 
the  case,  however.  It  can  be  bought  very  cheaply. 
Seedling  collections  are  offered  at  very  low  prices,  and 
from  them  you  will  obtain  many  flowers  quite  as  fine 
as  any  of  the  named  varieties.  Some  of  the  latter 
cost  three,  four  and  five  dollars  each.  This  amount 
of  money  invested  in  seedlings  will  get  bulbs  enough 
to  fill  a  large  bed.  If  you  want  certain  colors  you 
will  have  to  buy  the  named  bulbs  in  order  to  be 
sure  of  getting  what  you  want,  but  for  general  pur- 
poses the  cheaper  bulbs  are  quite  as  good. 

There  seems  to  be  no  limit  to  the  range  and  variety 
of  colors.  Rose,  scarlet,  crimson,  lilac,  violet,  cherry, 
yellow,  white — and  all  these  so  combined  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  give  you  a  flower  rivaling  an  Orchid  in 


THE      TUBEROSE      AND      GLADIOLUS  245 

superb  coloring  and  delicacy  of  texture.  For  there 
is  nothing  coarse  about  the  Gladiolus.  It  has  all  the 
delicacy  of  the  Lily  combined  with  the  magnificence 
of  color  peculiar  to  the  most  brilliant  and  showy 
tropical  plants. 

Nothing  is  finer  for  cutting  for  vases.  The  flow- 
ers last  for  days,  and  buds  develop  into  blossoms  after 
being  cut. 

After  frost  comes  take  up  the  bulbs  and  lay  them 
in  the  sun  till  the  earth  is  dry  enough  to  be  shaken 
from  them.  Then  cut  off  the  flower  stalk,  leaving 
about  six  inches  of  it  attached  to  the  bulb.  If  cut  closer 
the  bulb  may  rot  before  it  becomes  dry  enough  to  go 
into  winter  quarters.  In  December  put  in  the  cellar 
if  it  is  a  dry  one,  if  not,  store  in  some  room  free  from 
frost  and  moisture. 

This  bulb  increases  rapidly.  If  you  invest  a  dollar 
or  two  in  bulbs  this  season  you  will  have  quite  a  stock 
of  them  in  fall,  when  you  come  to  dig  them,  and  from 
these,  planted  next  spring,  you  will  obtain  all  you  care 
to  use,  and  very  likely  more.  If  so,  it  will  afford 
you  a  great  deal  of  pleasure,  doubtless,  to  share  them 
with  your  flower  loving  friends  who  may  not  be  so 
fortunate  as  you  are.  Fig  63  shows  flower  spikes  of 
some  of  the  best  types. 


63— TtfTES    OF    IMPROVED    GLADIOLUS 


CHAPTER    XLIV 


HARDY      BORDER      PLANTS 

Very  many  persons  are  fond  of  flowers  who  have 
but  little  time  to  devote  to  their  culture.  It  is  a  fact 
that  cannot  be  denied  that  the  cultivation  of  annuals 
requires  a  good  deal  of  hard  labor,  and  that  much  time 
must  be  devoted  to  the  garden  if  you  would  have  it 
what  it  ought  to  be.  These  persons  would  do  well  to 
devote  their  attention  to  hardy  border  plants.  Once 
established,  these  plants  are  good  for  years,  and  they 
will  require  less  attention  each  year  than  any  other 
class  of  flowers.  In  spring  they  should  be  dug  about, 
to  keep  the  grass  from  crowding  them  out.  Manure 
should  be  worked  in  about  them,  and  about  every  other 
season  their  roots  should  be  divided.  This  constitutes 
pretty  much  all  the  care  they  require.  While  they  do 
not  bloom  all  through  the  season  as  most  annuals  do, 
they  give  a  most  profuse  crop  in  summer,  and  many 
of  them  are  extremely  beautiful. 

The  following  are  among  the  best : 

Aquilegia — Known  as  Columbine  in  some  locali- 
ties ;  in  others  as  Honeysuckle ;  very  beautiful  in  form 
and  habit,  and  equally  so  in  color;  some  varieties  are 
blue,  others  yellow,  scarlet  and  white,  while  some  com- 
bine these  colors  in  beautiful  contrast ;  some  are  single, 
others  double ;  an  early  bloomer,  and  very  desirable. 

Campanula — This  is  the  well-known  and  ever- 
popular  Canterbury  Bell ;  color  blue  and  white ;  fine. 

Carnation — The  garden  variety  of  this  most  beau- 
tiful flower  is  quite  equal  to  the  popular  greenhouse 
class ;  it  has  large,  perfect  flowers  of  most  beautiful 
coloring,  and  is  delightfully  fragrant;  it  is  almost  as 


248  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

great  a  favorite  as  the  Rose;  no  garden  ought  to  be 
without  several. plants  of  it;  it  comes  in  all  shades  of 
red  and  rose,  while  many  varieties  have  stripes  and 
flakes  of  these  colors  on  white  or  yellow  ground. 

Delphinium — The  Perennial  Larkspur ;  one  of  our 
best  border  plants.  It  grows  to  a  hight  of  four  or  five 
feet,  therefore  is  well  adapted  to  back  rows,  and  for 
growing  along  fences.  D.  fonnosum  is  a  most  brilliant 
blue,  intense  in  tone  and  very  effective.  Other  varie- 
ties are  scarlet,  white  and  pink.  When  grown  in 
masses  it  produces  a  magnificent  show  of  color.  You 
cannot  afford  to  be  without  it. 

Digitalis — Better  known  as  Foxglove;  a  stately 
plant,  producing  racemes  of  flowers  two  feet  in  length, 
thimble-shaped,  and  prettily  spotted;  purple  and 
white. 

Hollyhock — If  we  have  a  better  border  plant  than 
this,  for  general  use,  I  would  like  to  know  what  it  is. 
It  combines  stateliness  of  growth,  beauty  of  color  and 
form,  profusion  of  bloom,  and  ease  of  culture  to  an 
extent  seldom  found  in  one  plant.  For  large  groups 
in  prominent  places,  for  backgrounds,  and  for  com- 
bination with  other  plants  of  large  growth,  whose 
colors  require  something  in  the  way  of  contrast,  it  is 
unexcelled.  A  group  of  the  lemon-yellow  varieties  and 
the  blue  Delphiniums  produces  a  most  striking  effect. 
In  the  newer  strains  we  have  scarlet,  maroon,  pure 
white,  rose,  yellow,  purple  and  almost  black  flowers, 
as  double  as  Cabbage  Roses,  with  a  delicacy  of  texture 
quite  unknown  among  the  old  single  varieties.  The 
newer  kinds  are  not  such  tall  growers  as  the  old  ones, 
but  reach  a  hight  of  four  to  five  feet.  A  row  of  them, 
planted  in  the  background  of  lower-growing  plants,  is 
always  sure  to  be  admired.  Be  sure — be  very  sure — to 
have  at  least  a  dozen  or  more  plants  of  the  Hollyhock. 
The  more  the  better,  if  you  have  room  for  them.  A 


FIG    64 — THE    ALLEGHENY     HOLLYHOCK 


25O  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

new  strain  of  Hollyhock  has  recently  been  introduced. 
It  is  known  as  the  Allegheny  (Fig  64),  and  has 
semi-double  flowers,  with  crimped  or  ruffled  petals. 
It  is  rapidly  becoming  popular  and  deserves  special 
mention. 

Perennial  Pea — This  plant  has  large  clusters  of 
rose-colored  flowers,  of  the  true  Pea  shape ;  a  climber, 
it  dies  to  the  ground  each  season,  but  starts  early  in 
spring  and  makes  a  strong  growth ;  very  useful  where 
a  climbing  plant  is  required. 

Iris — This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  plants  on 
the  list;  its  colors  are  exceedingly  rich,  but  delicate, 
and  the  texture  of  its  petals  puts  you  in  mind  of  frost ; 
a  strong-growing  plant,  very  profuse  in  bloom.  Plant 
some  of  the  pale  yellow  varieties  alongside  the  lovely 
blue  sorts  and  note  what  an  exquisite  effect  is  secured. 
There  are  many  species  and  varieties.  The  most  showy 
ones  are  the  Japanese,  seen  in  Fig  65. 

Anemone — This  is  a  late  fall-bloomer,  therefore 
very  desirable ;  there  are  two  varieties,  and  both  should 
be  grown ;  alba,  pure  white,  and  rubra,  red ;  very  fine. 

Dicentra — Sometimes  called  Bleeding  Heart;  a 
charming  and  graceful  plant;  it  has  fine,  fern-like 
foliage,  above  which  it  throws  its  long,  arching  stems 
laden  with  pendulous  pink  and  white  flowers;  very 
desirable. 

Paeony — Old  favories  everywhere,  because  of 
their  great  crops  of  large  and  beautifully  colored 
flowers.  Scatter  them  about  in  the  border;  early 
bloomers;  many  varieties  are  delightfully  fragrant. 
The  flower  and  foliage  of  the  Fine-leaved  Paeony  are 
shown  in  Fig  66. 

Rudbeckia  ("Golden  Glow")— One  of  the  most 
meritorious  plants  of  recent  introduction.  Hardy  as  a 
Lilac.  Grows  well  in  any  soil.  Blooms  in  August  and 
September,  with  such  profusion  that  clumps  of  it,  seen 


FIG  65 — TYPES  OF  JAPANESE  IRIS 


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from  a  little  distance,  appear  a  solid  mass  of  the  richest 
golden  yellow.  The  flowers  are  about  the  size  of 
those  of  the  Decorative  Dahlia,  and  they  resemble  them 
so  much  in  form  and  general  appearance  that  they 
are  sometimes  mistaken  for  them.  This  Rudbeckia 
deserves  a  place  in  every  'garden.  No  other  hardy 
plant  equals  it  in  brilliance  of  color.  It  is  excellent  for 
cutting,  as  the  flowers  are  borne  on  long,  slender  stems. 
They  last  for  a  long  time  after  being  cut.  They  equal 
the  new  Asters  in  this  respect. 


FIG     66 — FINE-LEAVED     PAEONY 

Perennial  Phlox — This  is,  among  border  plants, 
what  the  Geranium  is  among  window  plants,  or  the 
Lilac  among  shrubs.  It  is  of  the  easiest  possible  culture. 
Anyone  can  grow  it,  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil,  except 
pure  sand.  It  produces  enormous  clusters  of  flowers, 
in  crimson,  carmine,  scarlet,  rose,  purple,  violet, 
mauve,  magenta  and  pure  white.  Some  varieties  have 
stripes  of  contrasting  color.  Others  an  eye  of  white 


HARDY     BORDER     PLANTS  253 

on  a  colored  ground,  or  one  of  color  on  a  white  ground. 
Planted  in  groups,  with  due  regard  to  color  harmony, 
most  magnificent  effects  can  be  secured  by  it.  The 
lilacs,  mauves  and  magentas  should  never  be  used  in 
combination  with  the  scarlets  or  crimsons,  as  they  do 
not  harmonize  in  the  least.  Planted  together,  they 
produce  a  discordant  effect,  but  when  used  apart  and 
in  combination  with  the  white  varieties,  all  are  lovely. 

Coreopsis  lanceolate. — A  low-growing  plant  with 
bright  yellow  flowers.  Very  hardy  and  free  flowering, 
and  an  all-the-season  bloomer.  Excellent  for  front 
rows  in  the  border. 

If  Hollyhocks,  or  other  border  plants  are  attacked 
with  what  is  generally  termed  "rust,"  because  of  the 
rusty,  brown  appearance  of  the  foliage,  apply  Bordeaux 
mixture,  promptly  and  liberally.  Unless  something  is 
done  to  counteract  the  effect  of  this  disease — for  it  is 
a  disease  of  bacterial  nature — the  plants  attacked  by 
it  will  soon  be  severely  injured,  or  killed  outright,  and 
it  will  spread  to  others  until  the  whole  garden  k 
involved. 


CHAPTER    XLV 

SPRING-FLOWERING    BULBS 

Nothing  in  the  garden  gives  more  satisfaction 
than  a  bed  of  bulbs,  because  they  give  us  flowers  long 
before  we  can  expect  any  from  other  plants,  with  the 
exception  of  some  of  the  very  early  shrubs.  The 
Snowdrop  and  Crocus  bloom  almost  as  soon  as  the 
snow  is  gone,  followed  closely  by  the  Hyacinth  and 
later  by  the  Narcissus  and  Tulip.  Bulbs  enough  to 
fill  quite  a  bed  will  not  cost  much.  The  money  invested 
in  them  is  slight,  but  the  pleasure  afforded  by  them  is 
not  to  be  reckoned  in  dollars  and  cents. 

The  time  to  plant  these  bulbs  is  in  the  fall,  for,  if 
put  out  early  in  the  season,  or  at  any  time  between 
the  last  of  September  and  middle  of  November,  they 
have  a  chance  to  become  established  before  severe  win- 
ter weather  sets  in,  and  are  ready  for  the  season's  work 
when  spring  comes.  From  the  last  of  September  to 
the  middle  of  October  is  probably  a  better  time  for 
doing  this  work  than  later,  because  the  ground  is 
generally  warmer  and  drier  then  than  afterward,  and 
can  be  worked  more  thoroughly;  but  any  time  in  the 
fall  will  do  if  the  bulbs  are  kept  in  good  condition, 
and  the  ground  is  not  frozen. 

In  making  beds  for  bulbs  two  things  are  of  the 
greatest  importance.  These  are : 

First — rich  soil. 

Second — good  drainage. 

If  the  soil  is  heavy  or  compact  make  it  light  by 
stirring  it  well  before  you  plant  your  bulbs  in  it. 
Spade  it  up  and  mix  manure  with  it  thoroughly.  The 
finer  and  mellower  it  is  the  better  flowers  you  will  have. 
If  the  soil  is  clay,  add  loam  and  sand,  then  manure. 


SPRING-FLOWERING     BULBS  255 

The  best  fertilizer  for  bulbs  is  that  which  can  be 
obtained  from  old  yards  where  cow  manure  has  been 
thrown  out  and  suffered  to  lie  till  it  has  become  rotten. 
It  will  be  black  and  friable,  and  can  be  thoroughly 
incorporated  with  the  soil.  If  you  can  get  nothing 
but  fresh  manure  you  would  do  well  to  go  without 
any,  for  I  know  of  no  bulb  which  will  do  well  where 
it  is  used.  It  induces  unhealthiness  and  decay. 

Bulbs  will  not  do  well  in  a  soil  in  which  water 
is  allowed  to  stand.  Depend  on  that,  and  act  accord- 
ingly. If  your  bed  is  low,  and  water  is  retained  about 
the  roots  in  spring,  you  may  get  one  tolerably  good 
crop  of  flowers,  but  the  following  year  you  will  get  few 
flowers,  if  any,  and  these  will  be  inferior,  and  the 
plants  will  have  an  unhealthy  appearance.  Examina- 
tion will  show  you  that  the  bulbs  are  diseased.  There-- 
fore drain  your  beds  well  if  they  have  not  good  drain- 
age naturally.  This  is  easily  done  by  digging  out  the 
soil  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  two  and  filling  in  with 
several  inches  of  stone,  old  cans,  bricks,  anything  and 
everything  which  will  hold  up  the  soil  when  you 
return  that  which  has  been  thrown  out,  and  keep  it 
from  settling  down  into  a  hard,  compact  mass  in  the 
bottom  of  the  bed.  Putting  in  this  material  will  raise 
the  bed  to  a  hight  which  will  enable  it  to  shed  most 
of  the  water  from  melting  snows  and  early  rains,  and 
what  percolates  through  the  soil  will  pass  off  among 
the  crevices  below,  and  thus  away  from  the  roots 
of  the  bulbs. 

The  best  bulbs  for  bedding,  because  the  hardiest, 
are  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  Crocuses  and  Snowdrops. 

I  would  not  advise  mixing  different  kinds  in  the 
same  bed.  A  bed  for  each  kind,  by  itself,  will  be 
found  most  satisfactory. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Tulip.  Some 
are  very  early,  others  a  month  later;  some  are  single, 


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others  double;  some  are  low  growers,  while  others 
reach  a  hight  of  twelve  to  sixteen  inches.  You  can 
find  out  all  you  want  to  know  about  the  habits  of 
the  plants  by  reading  the  catalogs  carefully.  You  will 
also  find  in  them  valuable  hints  which  it  is  unnecessary 
to  give  here  about  making  selections  and  planting. 
This  flower  has  an  almost  unlimited  variety  of  colors, 
and  these  colors  are  of  the  richest,  ranging  from  pure 
white  and  palest  yellow  to  dark  crimson,  brilliant 
scarlet,  maroon,  royal  purple  and  rose,  with  combi- 
nations of  several  of  these  colors  in  some  varieties  of 
flaked  flowers.  The  Parrot  Tulips  are  exceedingly 
gay,  having  petals  of  brilliant  coloring,  feathered  and 
fringed,  with  light  colors  on  a  dark  ground,  or  vice 
versa.  A  Tulip  bed  is  a  most  gorgeous  sight  when  in 
full  bloom,  and  happy  is  the  possessor  of  one.  The 
principal  types  of  Tulips  are  shown  in  Fig  67. 

The  Hyacinths  come  in  more  delicate  colors,  but 
they  are  very  fine  and  rich.  You  can  suit  your  taste 
as  to  double  or  single  flowers.  I  prefer  the  single 
sorts,  because  the  flowers  are  not  so  crowded  on  the 
stalk,  therefore  they  have  a  more  graceful  appearance. 
But  you  will  want  some  of  both.  This  flower  possesses 
a  delightful  fragrance. 

The  Narcissus  is  a  most  charming  flower  and  no 
garden  can  afford  to  be  without  it.  Some  varieties 
have  small  flowers,  others  large.  The  small-flowered 
section  make  up  in  quantity  what  they  lack  in  size. 
All  are  exquisitely  beautiful.  The  colors  are  rich 
golden  yellow,  a  pale  sulphur  yellow,  cream  and 
pure  white.  Some  are  single,  some  double.  A  group 
of  them  lights  up  the  garden  in  spring  like  a  burst 
of  sunshine.  One  of  the  finest  spring  blooming  bulbs 
we  have.  The  flowers  are  deliciously  fragrant,  and 
excellent  for  cutting,  keeping  a  long  time  in  the  house. 

The  Scilla  is  a  charming  little  blue  flower,  bloom- 


SPRING-FLOWERING       BULBS 


257 


ing  with  the  Snowdrops,  when  the  ground  is  not  yet 
free  from  snow.     These,  with  the  Crocus,  should  be 


FIG    67 — TYPES    OF    TULIPS 

planted  in  clumps  along  the  paths,  and  scattered  about 
without  any  attempt  at  "arrangement."     By  planting 


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them  in  a  bed  of  formal  design  you  spoil  the  effect  of 
them.  You  want  them  where  you  will  "happen  upon 
them,"  and  not  in  a  bed. 

Be  sure  to  dot  the  border,  or  row  of  herbaceous 
plants,  with  bulbs.  They  will  brighten  it  charmingly 
before  the  other  plants  begin  to  grow  much. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  take  up  your  bulbs  each 
season,  as  some  seem  to  think.  I  prefer  to  let  them 
remain  undisturbed  for  two  or  three  years.  Then 
I  lift  them  after  the  foliage  has  ripened,  and  divide 
them,  storing  them  away  until  fall,  when  they  are 
reset  in  new  beds.  The  beds  where  bulbs  grow  can 
be  utilized  for  annuals  without  making  it  necessary 
to  disturb  the  bulbs,  which  will  have  completed  their 
flowering  before  it  is  time  to  put  out  the  annuals. 
The  soil  can  be  stirred  with  a  rake,  taking  care  not 
to  let  the  rake  teeth  penetrate  far  enough  to  come 
in  contact  with  the  bulbs. 

The  bulb  bed  should  be  covered  in  fall  with  litter 
from  the  barnyard,  or  leaves,  to  the  depth  of  eight 
inches  or  a  foot.  Remove  in  spring  before  the  bulbs 
begin  to  grow.  If  left  on  too  long,  they  will  send  up 
their  stalks  through  it,  and  being  tender,  they  will  be 
broken  when  you  come  to  take  it  from  the  bed. 


CHAPTER    XLVI 


HARDY     ROSES 

The  ideal  garden  has  many  Roses  in  it.  Roses 
here  and  there,  and  everywhere.  There  cannot  be  too 
many  of  them.  Indeed,  to  the  lover  of  this  most  lovely 
of  all  flowers  there  can  never  be  enough,  though  per- 
haps the  Californian  may  have  a  surfeit  of  them.  A 
lady  wrote  me  last  summer  about  a  Marechal  Niel 
which  clambered  up  to  the  eaves  of  a  two-story  house, 
from  which  she  had  often  cut  a  bushel  basket  full  of 
flowers  without  being  able  to  note  the  loss  of  one. 
Think  of  that,  and  long  for  Paradise  in  southern 
California,  oh  lover  of  this  lovely  Rose  which  we  often 
fail  to  get  a  dozen  flowers  from  in  our  greenhouses 
in  the  course  of  a  whole  season  ! 

Roses  must  be  given  a  very  rich  soil  if  you  want 
them'  to  do  their  best,  and  we  ought  to  be  satisfied 
with  nothing  less.  They  will  bloom  well,  compara- 
tively speaking,  in  an  ordinary  soil,  but  you  never 
know  what  they  are  capable  of  doing  until  you  give 
them  a  bed  in  which  plenty  of  old,  strong  manure 
is  worked.  Treat  a  bush  which  has  been  giving  you 
flowers  of  ordinary  size  and  color  to  such  a  fertilizer 
and  you  will  be  surprised  to  note  the  difference  in 
growth,  foliage,  size  and  richness  of  color  of  the 
flowers. 

The  Rose  likes  a  somewhat  heavy  soil.  It  prefers 
a  clayey  loam  to  a  sandy  loam.  Its  roots  are  strong, 
and  it  seems  to  want  a  soil  in  which  it  itself  can 
intrench  firmly.  If  the  location  selected  for  your 
Rose  bed  is  not  naturally  well  drained,  see  that  it  is 
made  so.  Dig  out  the  soij  to  the  depth  of  two  feet, 


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and  put  in  a  lot  of  such  rubbish  as  accumulates  about 
all  houses  to  act  as  drainage  material.  It  may  not 
sound  very  poetical,  but  I  would  advise  utilizing  old 
boots  and  shoes,  bones,  etc,  in  this  way.  They  not  only 
answer  the  direct  purpose  for  which  you  use  them, 
but  they  will  decay  and  furnish  an  element  of  plant 
food  which  the  Rose  will  make  good  use  of.  Then 
get  plenty  of  old,  black,  friable  cow  manure  and  mix 
it  well  with  the  soil  thrown  out  of  the  bed.  You  can 
scarcely  give  too  much.  Old  chip  dirt  is  excellent,  also. 
In  such  a  soil  you  may  expect  your  Roses  to  do  great 
things.  And  they  will  not  disappoint  you  if  you  give 
them  proper  attention  in  other  respects,  which  you  will 
do,  of  course,  if  you  are  as  much  of  a  lover  of  this 
flower  as  you  ought  to  be. 

Among  the  older  varieties  of  Rose,  the  best  are 
the  Provence,  the  Damask  and  the  Cabbage — all  pop- 
ular, and  all  good,  and  well  worth  a  place  in  the  most 
aristocratic  garden  alongside  the  new  candidates  for 
favor.  In  addition  to  these,  I  would  advise  the  follow- 
ing as  being  especially  desirable  among  the  hardy,  June 
blooming  kinds: 

Harrison's  Yellow,  a  Rose  of  exceedingly  rich 
color,  not  very  double,  but  bearing  enormous  quan- 
tities of  flowers,  and  as  hardy  as  the  Lilac;  leaves 
generally  with  nine  leaflets. 

The  Persian  Yellow  is  of  a  much  deeper  hue  than 
the  preceding,  and  more  double,  nearly  full.  It  is  of 
feebler  growth,  and  is  best  when  grown  on  the  stock 
of  the  Dog  Rose  or  the  Manetti.  The  foliage  is  small, 
leaves  with  seven  leaflets,  with  Sweetbrier  scent. 

George  the  Fourth,  a  rich  crimson-scarlet  flower, 
very  double  and  delightfully  fragrant ;  a  free  bloomer, 
and  good  grower;  one  of  the  best.  It  is  hard  to  find 
it  among  the  rose  growers,  but  it  is  well  worth  seek- 
ing for. 


HARDY       ROSES  26l 

Madame  Plantier,  pure  white,  blooming  in 
clusters ;  a  rather  small  flower,  but  very  beautiful ; 
excellent  for  cemetery  use. 

The  popular  class  of  Roses  to-day  is  the  Hybrid 
Perpetual.  The  name  is  somewhat  misleading.  None 
of  this  class  can  truly  be  called  perpetual  bloomers. 
But  they  can  be  made  to  give  us  flowers  through  a 
good  share  of  the  season,  with  proper  treatment,  but 
there  will  be  but  one  profuse  crop  of  them.  This 
will  come  in  June  and  July.  If,  after  having  given 
this  crop,  the  shoots  are  cut  back  well,  and  the  soil 
is  made  very  rich  to  encourage  a  fresh  and  vigorous 
growth,  new  branches  will  be  put  forth,  and  these 
will  almost  always  produce  some  good  flowers  until 
quite  late  in  the  season.  Unless  this  treatment  is 
given  you  will  get  very  few  blossoms  from  them 
after  July. 

Among  the  most  desirable  kinds  of  this  class,  I 
would  name  the  following: 

Alfred  Colomb,  red,  shading  into  carmine;  large 
and  line. 

Baron  de  Bonstetten,  dark  crimson,  with  velvety 
texture  of  petal;  a  magnificent  variety. 

Baronne  Prevost,  large  flower,  of  clear,  bright 
pink. 

Baroness  Rothschild,  rich  rose  color  with  a  luster 
like  satin  ;  cup-shaped ;  exquisite. 

Fisher  Holmes,  crimson;  very  double. 

Gen  Jacqueminot,  intense  crimson,  shading  to 
scarlet ;  velvety  in  texture ;  superb  in  all  ways ;  one  of 
the  most  popular  of  all  Roses,  and  well  deserving  its 
popularity. 

Madame  Victor  Verdier,  carmine;  full,  large, 
globular  flower. 

Marie  Baumann,  vermilion  shaded  with  dark 
scarlet ;  extra  fine. 


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Paul  Neyron,  one  of  the  largest  of  all  Roses; 
rich,  satiny  rose  color. 

Perfection  des  Blanches,  one  of  the  most  prolific 
and  late  bloomers ;  white,  very  sweet. 

Prince  Camille  de  Rohan,  velvety  crimson  shaded 
with  maroon;  large,  double  and  sweet. 

Vick's  Caprice,  a  soft,  satiny  pink,  distinctly 
striped  and  dashed  with  white  and  carmine ;  especially 
beautiful  in  the  partly  opened  bud. 

Victor  Verdier,  bright  rose. 

Of  course  every  collection  must  include  some  of 
the  Moss  Rose  section.  The  following  varieties  are 
among  the  best : 

Blanche  Moreau,  white. 

Henri  Martin,  red. 

Luxembourg,  scarlet. 

Princess  Adelaide,  pink. 

Raphael,  white  tinged  with  pink. 

Salet,  rosy  red. 

Then,  too,  you  will  want  some  of  the  climbers. 
These  are  good: 

Baltimore  Belle,  blush  white. 

Gem  of  the  Prairies,  bright  crimson. 

Queen  of  the  Prairies,  dark  rose  color;  one  of 
the  best  of  the  climbing  sorts. 

The  Ramblers  are  recent  additions  to  the  great 
Rose  family,  but  they  have  proved  to  be  so  useful 
that  we  cannot  afford  to  overlook  them.  While  not 
as  fine  as  most  other  varieties,  when  the  individual 
flower  is  considered,  their  wonderful  profusion  of 
bloom,  rampant  growth,  and  adaptability  for  group- 
ing, or  using  as  screens  or  coverings  for  fences  and 
outbuildings  make  them  necessities  in  every  up-to-date 
garden.  A  fine  specimen  of  Crimson  Rambler  is 
shown  in  Fig  68. 

The  Hybrid  Perpetuals  will  have  to  be  laid  down 


HARDY      ROSES 


and  covered  in  fall.  The  climbers  ought  also  to  have 
protection.  The  other  varieties  will  stand  our  northern 
winters  quite  well  without  protection,  but  they  will 


do  so  much  better  if  it  is  given  that  I  would  always 
advise  giving  it.  In  preparing  Roses  for  winter,  T 
heap  earth  about  the  base  of  the  plant,  and  over  this 


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I  bend  the  stalks  until  they  touch  the  ground.  If 
bent  squarely  over  the  stiff  stalks  often  snap  off,  or 
split,  but  the  heap  of  earth  makes  it  easy  to  bend  them 
in  a  curve,  which  prevents  accidents  of  this  sort. 
Lay  sods  on  the  branches  to  hold  them  down  and  cover 
with  leaves  or  litter  to  the  depth  of  five  or  six  inches. 
In  spring,  when  the  plants -are  uncovered  and  lifted, 
cut  back  well. 


CHAPTER     XLVII 

VINES 

Nothing  gives  a  more  graceful  finish  to  the  porch 
or  veranda  than  the  vine  you  train  up  its  posts  and 
along  its  eaves.  No  house  is  what  it  ought  to  be, 
in  the  sense  of  the  beautiful,  without  some  vine  trained 
about  its  windows  and  up  its  walls  to  break  up  all 
stiffness  of  outline  and  soften  the  effect  of  broad  sur- 
faces of  painted  wood. 

One  of  the  best  vines  we  have  is,  I  am  glad  to 
say,  a  native  plant.  I  am  always  proud  to  read  of 
the  popularity  of  the  Ampelopsis  abroad.  It  is  a  rapid 
grower,  has  beautiful  foliage  at  all  times,  and  espe- 
cially so  in  autumn,  when  it  takes  on  its  rich  crimson 
and  scarlet  and  maroon  colors,  and  is  so  hardy  that 
the  severest  weather  fails  to  injure  it  in  the  least.  It 
is  to  America  what  the  Ivy  is  to  England.  It  is  quite 
as  beautiful,  in  a  different  way.  It  clings  to  smooth 
surfaces  by  means  of  little  discs  at  the  end  of  its 
tendrils. 

Ampelopsis  Veitchii  comes  to  us  from  Japan.  It 
has  smaller  foliage  than  our  native  species  and  is  not 
so  rampant  a  grower.  It  forms  a  dense  mass  of 
foliage.  It  is  a  charming  plant,  but  really  not  so 
desirable  as  the  American  species. 

Akebia  quinata  is  a  Japanese  vine  with  very  pretty 
foliage,  and  brownish  flowers.  It  is  a  rapid  grower. 

Aristolochia,  or  Dutchman's  Pipe,  is  a  very  rapid 
grower,  perfectly  hardy,  with  immense  leaves,  and 
flowers  of  peculiar  shape,  somewhat  resembling  the 
old-fashioned  German  pipe.  Hence  its  common  name. 

The  Bignonia  is  one  of  our  most  desirable  climb- 
ing plants.  It  has  beautiful  foliage  of  a  rich,  bright, 


266  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

glossy  green.  Its  flowers  are  tubular  in  form,  borne 
in  clusters,  and  of  a  brilliant  orange-scarlet. 

The  Honeysuckle  is  a  prime  favorite,  as  it  well 
deserves  to  be.  It  is  beautiful  in  foliage  and  flower, 
hardy,  a  most  profuse  bloomer,  and  something  that 
everybody  can  grow  with  very  little  trouble.  The  fol- 
lowing varieties  are  all  excellent : 

Halleana,  pure  white  flowers,  changing  to  yellow ; 
fragrant. 

Scarlet  Trumpet,  constant  bloomer;  flowers  scar- 
let outside,  with  yellow  lining. 

Japan  Golden-veined,  small  leaves,  covered  with  a 
network  of  bright  yellow ;  flowers  white  and  fragrant. 

Celastrus  scandens.  This  is  our  Bittersweet, 
another  native  of  great  merit.  ,  It  has  bright  green 
foliage  produced  in  great  profusion.  Its  flowers  are 
inconspicuous,  but  they  are  succeeded  by  clusters  of 
berries.  These  berries  are  inclosed  in  orange  capsules, 
which  burst  and  turn  back,  exposing  the  red  fruit 
within.  The  berries  are  quite  as  ornamental  as  flow- 
ers. A  clean,  strong  growing  plant,  very  useful  for 
training  over  old  trees. 

Perhaps  the  most  popular  of  all  climbing  plants 
just  at  present  is  the  Clematis.  It  is  really  a  magnifi- 
cent plant.  It  grows  with  wonderful  rapidity.  It 
blooms  with  the  greatest  profusion.  It  is  rich  in  color. 
It  is  hardy.  Having  all  these  good  qualities  it  ought 
to  be  popular. 

The  following  are  among  the  most  desirable 
varieties : 

C.  paniculata  grandiflora — A  comparatively  new 
variety,  but  one  of  the  most  meritorious  members 
of  the  family.  Flowers  small,  but  borne  in  such  pro- 
fusion, all  over  the  plant,  that  it  has  the  appearance 
of  being  covered  with  snow.  Color,  white.  Fra- 
grant. Foliage,  rich  dark  green.  Especially  valuable 


VINES  267 

because  of  its  late-flowering  habit.  Blooms  until 
cold  weather.  One  of  our  very  best  vines,  if  not 
the  best. 

Jackmanii,  flowers  of  violet-blue,  five  or  six  inches 
across ;  a  charming  plant  for  training  on  screens,  trel- 
lises and  lattice. 

Lanuginosa  Candida,  very  similar  to  Jackmanii  in 
all  but  color;  being  white,  it  can  be  used  to  fine 
advantage  with  that  variety,  the  contrast  in  the  color 
of  their  flowers  being  very  fine. 

Countess  Lovelace,  double,  lilac. 

Duchess  of  Edinburgh,  double  white;  free 
bloomer  and  fragrant. 

Venus  Victrix,  pale  lavender ;  double ;  very  fine. 

Coccinea,  scarlet;  quite  unlike  the  other  varieties 
named,  the  flower  being  somewhat  bell-shaped. 

Virginiana — This  is  a  native,  known  in  some  parts 
of  the  country  as  Virgin's  Bower ;  in  other  sections 
as  Traveler's  Joy.  It  is  exquisitely  beautiful.  Its 
flowers  are  produced  in  wonderful  profusion.  They 
are  small,  but  are  borne  in  large,  branching  clusters, 
pure  white  in  color,  and  fringe-like  in  appearance.  A 
plant,  when  in  bloom,  seems  to  be  covered  with  newly- 
fallen  snowflakes.  One  of  the  best  plants  in  the  whole 
list  for  growing  about  verandas  and  porches. 

The  Clematis  dies  down  to  within  a  foot  or 
two  of  the  ground  each  season,  but  sends  up  new 
stalks  in  spring,  which  make  an  exceedingly  rapid 
growth. 

The  Wistaria  is  one  of  our  most  satisfactory 
climbing  plants  after  it  becomes  well  established. 
During  the  first  four  or  five  years  of  its  existence  I 
find  that  it  must  be  laid  down  and  covered  during 
winter  at  the  North.  If  this  is  not  done,  a  large 
proportion  of  the  season's  growth  will  be  killed. 
After  a  few  years  it  seems  to  acquire  hardiness,  and 


268  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

can  be  left  on  the  trellis,  or  whatever  it  is  trained  to. 
It  is  a  lovely  plant  when  well  grown.  It  will  clamber 
to  the  eaves  of  a  two-story  house,  and  in  early  sum- 
mer its  branches  will  be  laden  with  long  racemes  of 
beautiful  flowers  of  purple-blue  and  white. 


CHAPTER     XLVIII 


LILIES 

Every  garden  should  have  at  least  a  half  dozen 
choice  Lilies.  Next  to  the  Rose,  this  flower  stands 
pre-eminent  for  beauty  among  the  garden's  favorites, 
and  no  collection  can  afford  to  be  without  it. 

Most  kinds  adapted  to  general  culture  can  easily 
oe  grown  by  the  amateur,  provided  he  can  give  them  a 
well  drained  location,  and  a  deep,  mellow  soil.  If  it 
contains  considerable  sand,  all  the  better,  for  a  sandy 
soil  means  a  soil  not  unduly  retentive  of  moisture  in 
spring.  Nothing  injures  the  Lily  more  than  stagnant 
water  about  its  roots,  except  the  use  of  fresh  manure. 
To  apply  this  to  Lilies,  under  the  impression  that  it  will 
benefit  them,  is  one  of  the  greatest  mistakes  that  can 
be  made  by  the  amateur.  If  it  comes  in  contact  with 
them,  it  almost  invariably  brings  on  a  diseased  con- 
dition which  speedily  results  in  death.  The  only  ma- 
nure safe  to  use  among  Lilies  is  very  old,  thoroughly 
rotten  cow  manure — so  old  and  decayed  that  it  crum- 
bles readily  under  the  application  of  the  hoe.  This, 
mixed  with  a  loamy  soil  from  which  the  water  from 
melting  snows  and  spring  rains  drains  rapidly,  makes 
an  ideal  fertilizer  for  this  class  of  plants. 

Lilies  should  be  planted  from  eight  to  ten  inches 
below  the  soil,  and  they  should  be  covered  in  fall  with 
litter,  or  leaves,  or  some  other  similar  material,  to  the 
depth  of  at  least  a  foot.  Unless  this  is  done,  frost  will 
penetrate  the  earth  about  them,  and,  by  its  expan- 
sive action,  so  wrench  the  plants  from  their  places 
that  their  roots  will  be  injured  or  broken  off  altogether. 
When  this  is  done,  failure  is  to  be  looked  for.  But 


27O  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

such  injury  can  be  prevented  by  deep  covering,  com- 
bined with  deep  planting.  If  you  were  to  ask  me  the 
two  things  of  greatest  importance  in  Lily-growing, 
I  would  answer,  protection  from  the  action  of  frost 
in  winter,  and  thorough  drainage. 

In  planting  Lilies,  I  would  advise  putting  sand 
immediately  about  each'  bulb.  This  is  not  absolutely 
necessary,  but  it  is  advisable  in  most  soils,  as  sand  is 
almost  wholly  devoid  of  vegetable  matter,  for  which 
most  garden  varieties  seem  to  have  little  liking.  An 
old  gardener  once  told  me  that  it  was  an  easy  matter 
to  kill  a  Lily  by  planting  it  in  muck  or  leaf  mold. 
I  think  he  overestimated  the  danger,  but  I  have 
always  seen  the  finest  Lilies  growing  in  soils  free  from 
decaying  vegetation. 

The  following  kinds  are  among  the  best  for  the 
amateur : 

Auratum,  the  "Gold-Banded  Lily."  One  of  the 
most  magnificent  ornaments  of  the  garden,  when  well 
grown.  Its  flowers  are  often  eight  inches  across. 
They  are  pure  white,  as  to  ground  color,  with  red 
spots  on  each  thick,  waxen  petal,  and  a  gold  band 
running  from  tip  to  calyx.  (Fig  69.) 

Brownii.  A  superb  species,  with  large,  trumpet- 
shaped  flowers,  pure  white  inside,  and  purple  without. 

Excelsum.  Apricot  yellow.  A  stately  plant. 
Fine  for  grouping. 

Rubrum,  red. 

Album,  pure  white. 

Speciosum,  extremely  beautiful.  There  are  many 
varieties,  the  most  distinct  of  which  are  album,  rubrum 
and  roseum. 

Candidum,  an  old  species,  but  quite  as  desirable 
as  any  of  the  newer  sorts.  White,  and  delightfully 
fragrant. 

Tigrinum,  or  "Tiger  Lily,"  another  old  favorite, 


FIG     69 — THE     GOLDEN-BANDED     LILY 


272  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

orange-yellow,  thickly  spotted  with  brown.  Very 
hardy  and  floriferous. 

Umbellatum,  tawny  yellow,  with  upright  flowers. 
Long,  Amaryllis-like  foliage.  Fine  for  masses.  Will 
grow  anywhere.  One  of  the  sorts  that  stand  all  kinds 
of  neglect  and  abuse,  and  look  cheerful  under  it. 

Some  of  our  native  species  are  well  worth  a  place 
in  the  garden,  foremost  among  which  Lilium  super- 
bum,  our  common  Swamp  Lily.  It  grows  from  six 
to  eight  feet  high  on  an  average,  with  four  to  twelve 
orange-red  flowers  on  each  stalk.  It  is  a  splendid 
plant  to  grow  among  shrubbery. 


CHAPTER     XLIX 


SHRUBS,    AND     HOW     TO     PLANT    THEM 

The  owner  of  a  yard,  no  matter  how  small  it  may 
be,  ought  to  do  something  toward  developing  its  pos- 
sibilities. There  may  be  room  for  only  a  shrub  or  two, 
but  this  is  no  reason  why  the  place  should  be  neg- 
lected. Plant  what  you  have  room  for.  Do  what  you 
can  to  make  the  place  attractive,  and  the  home  spirit 
will  do  its  share  in  beautifying  the  spot.  The  more 
attention  we  give  the  home  the  more  we  find  in  it  to 
love  and  to  work  for. 

Every  place  ought  to  have  at  least  a  few  shrubs, 
because  to  a  great  extent,  especially  in  our  villages 
and  cities,  they  must  take  the  place  of  trees.  They 
have  a  dignity  which  the  smaller,  hardy  herbaceous 
plant  does  not  possess. 

As  a  general  thing  they  grow  into  symmetrical 
shape  without  much  pruning.  Many  of  them  have  the 
merit  of  blooming  quite  early  in  the  season.  All  that 
I  shall  make  mention  of  in  this  article  are  hardy,  and 
all  of  them  can  be  grown  with  reasonable  certainty 
of  success  by  anyone  who  will  follow  the  directions 
I  shall  give  in  planting  and  caring  for  them.  One 
strong  argument  in  favor  of  shrubs  is,  they  are  good 
for  years  after  becoming  well  established. 

In  planting  the  lawn  to  shrubs,  let  me  caution 
you  to  not  make  the  mistake  of  putting  them  too  close 
together.  They  are  small  when  first  put  out,  there- 
fore they  make  but  little  show,  and  we  get  the  im- 
pression that  a  good  many  are  needed,  and  we  set  them 
a  few  feet  apart — possibly  ten,  but  generally  less — and 
the  result  is  that  in  two  or  three  vears  we  have  a  mass 


274  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

of  bushes  in  which  all  individuality  is  lost,  and  when 
shrubs  "run  together"  in  this  way,  their  dignity  is 
destroyed.  To  guard  against  this  almost  universal 
mistake,  we  must  take  a  look  ahead.  Think  what  the 
proportions  of  the  shrub  will  be  when  it  has  fully 
developed,  and  plant  accordingly,  always  keeping  in 
mind  the  fact  that  there  ought  to  be  ample  space  be- 
tween. If  you  haven't  room  for  more  than  one,  have 
one  only.  One  good  one,  planted  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  display  itself  effectively,  will  afford  a  great  deal 
more  satisfaction  than  several  inferior  ones,  such  as 
you  may  make  sure  of  having  if  you  plant  more  than 
you  have  room  for. 

The  next  thing  to  do  after  getting  your  shrubs 
and  deciding  where  they  shall  be  planted,  is  to  get  the 
ground  in  proper  shape  for  their  reception.  Some  take 
a  spade  and  dig  a  hole  a  foot  square  and  about  the 
same  in  depth,  crowd  the  roots  of  the  shrub  into  it, 
shovel  in  clods  of  the  soil  thrown  out,  tramp  them 
down,  and  call  the  job  done.  This  is  all  wrong,  and 
the  man  who  does  it  will  have,  as  he  deserves  to,  a 
miserable  apology  for  a  shrub. 

In  the  first  place,  make  the  hole  large  enough  to 
accommodate  the  roots  without  cramping.  In  the 
second  place,  work  the  soil  over  until  there  isn't  a  clod 
or  lump  in  it,  mixing  in,  as  you  do  this,  some  old, 
well-rotted  manure.  Shrubs  have  to  eat,  like  other 
plants,  and  you  must  feed  them  well  if  you  want  them 
to  do  well.  Then  set  the  shrub  in  the  hole  dug  to 
receive  it,  spreading  its  roots  out  evenly  and  naturally. 
Scatter  soil  over  them,  and  then,  by  lifting  the  plant 
gently  and  shaking  it  a  little,  work  this  soil  down 
among  the  roots.  After  filling  in  enough  to  cover  all 
the  roots,  apply  at  least  a  pailful  of  water.  This  will 
settle  the  soil  firmly  about  the  roots.  Then  heap  the 
rest  of  the  soil  about  the  base  of  the  shrub. 


SHRUBS,      AND      HOW      TO      PLANT      THEM         275 

There  are  so  many  excellent  shrubs  that  it  is  a 
difficult  matter  to  select  the  best.  Among  the  ironclad 
sorts  I  know  of  nothing  superior  to  the  Lilac.  It  re- 
quires very  little  care,  grows  rapidly,  blooms  with 
great  freedom  early  in  the  season,  and  is  healthy  and 
long  lived.  There  are  several  double  varieties  on  the 
market  which  deserve  especial  attention.  If  in  doubt 
as  to  what  to  plant,  decide  on  a  Lilac  and  you  will  not 
regret  it. 

The  Japan  Quince  is  a  fine  shrub  of  low,  compact 
habit,  with  glossy  foliage,  and  intensely  rich  scarlet 
flowers,  produced  very  early  in  the  season.  It  makes 
an  excellent  hedge. 

The  Weigelias  are  favorites  everywhere.  They 
develop  into  large  bushes,  and  every  branch  will  be 
literally  loaded  down  in  June  and  July  with  flowers 
in  various  shades  of  red,  rose  and  white. 

One  of  the  most  charming  shrubs  I  know  of  is 
the  Double  Flowering  Plum,  cataloged  as  Prunus 
triloba.  It  makes  a  bush  about  four  feet  in  hight  and 
five  or  six  feet  across,  with  many  graceful  branches 
which  in  May  and  June  are  perfect  wreaths  of  bloom, 
like  those  of  the  old  Flowering  Almond.  The  flowers 
of  this  Plum  are  pink  and  white,  quite  double,  and  like 
miniature  Roses  in  shape. 

Of  course,  you  will  want  some  Roses.  The  Ram- 
blers are  proving  hardy  enough  to  stand  our  northern 
winters,  if  laid  down  in  fall  and  covered  well.  They 
are  beautiful  things  when  full  of  flowers.  To  secure 
the  best  effect  from  them,  plant  several  in  a  group. 

For  late  blooming,  Hydrangea  paniculata  grandi- 
flora  is  perhaps  our  best  shrub.  This,  like  the  Ram- 
bler Roses,  is  most  effective  when  grouped.  (Fig  70. 

The  Flowering  Currant  is  an  excellent  shrub. 
It  is  always  graceful  without  pruning.  It  blooms 
with  wonderful  profusion  early  in  the  season,  having 


276  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

thousands  of  soft  yellow,  very  fragrant  flowers.  In 
fall,  its  foliage  turns  to  gold  and  crimson,  and  again 
the  bush  is  as  attractive  as  in  spring. 

The  Daphne  Cneorum  is  a  very  charming  little 
shrub,  suitable  for  a  location  near  the  path  or  house, 
as  it  never  grows  tall  enough  to  get  in  the  way.  It 
bears  clusters  of  bright  pink  flowers,  which  are  de- 


ne   70— GROUP    OF    THE    HARDY    HYDRANGEA 

lightfully  fragrant.  It  flowers  at  intervals  all  through 
the  season.  Well  deserving  a  place  in  all  gardens. 

The  Flowering  Almond  has  lost  some  of  its  old 
popularity,  but  none  of  its  old  merits.  It  is  a  charming 
little  shrub,  with  its  slender  branches  so  thickly  set 
with  pink  and  white  flowers  that  they  look  like 
wreaths. 

The  Spireas  are  most  beautiful  shrubs,  bearing 
small  flowers  in  great  abundance.  Like  the  Flower- 
ing Almond  their  slender  branches  seem  wreaths  of 
bloom. 


SHRUBS,       AND       HOW       TO       PLANT       THEM       2/7 

The  Syringa  grows  to  a  hight  of  eight  or 
ten  feet,  branches  freely,  and  becomes  a  most  at- 
tractive shrub  for  a  prominent  location.  It  blooms 
very  profusely,  having  white  flowers  with  a  fragrance 
like  that  of  the  Orange.  On  this  account  it  is  pop- 
ularly known  as  Mock  Orange. 

The  Deutzias  are  lovely  plants:  D.  crenata  flore 
plena  is  a  double  variety,  with  clusters  of  pure  white 
drooping  flowers;  D.  gracilis  is  a  more  slender 
grower,  with  graceful  delicate  white  flowers  pro- 
duced so  freely  as  to  almost  cover  the  branches. 

The  Flowering  Sumach  is  one  of  our  most  useful 
shrubs  where  a  strong,  tall  grower  is  required.  It  has 
finely  divided  foliage,  and  its  flowers  of  creamy  white 
have  such  an  airy,  graceful  look  about  them  that  they 
give  one  the  impression  of  plumes ;  excellent  for  cut- 
ting, as  the  flowers  combine  charmingly  with  all  other 
colors. 

The  Halesia,  or  Silver  Bell,  is  an  old  favorite;  it 
is  a  tall,  strong-growing  shrub,  having  pendulous,  bell- 
shaped  flowers  of  pure  white. 

The  Purple-leaved  Berberry  is  an  excellent  shrub 
for  use  among  light  colored  plants,  on  account  of  its 
rich,  dark  foliage.  If  this  is  planted  beside  of,  or  near, 
the  golden-leaved  Weigelia  the  effect  is  rich  and 
striking.  If  you  can  give  it  a  place  where  it  will 
have  some  such  flower  as  the  yellow  Hollyhock,  or 
Goldenrod,  for  a  background,  its  beautiful  color  will 
be  thrown  out  with  very  pleasing  effect. 

We  have  many  good  native  shrubs.  Some  of  the 
Alders  are  lovely  ornaments  of  the  garden  when 
they  are  planted  in  front  of  evergreens.  The  con- 
trast between  their  brilliant  red  berries  and  the  dark 
green  of  Spruce  or  Arbor  Vitae  is  very  fine,  and  gives 
one  a  thrill  of  pleasure  when  seen  through  falling 
snow,  or  when  the  ground  is  white. 


HOME      FLORICULTURE 


The  Elders  (Fig  71),  with  their  great  clusters  of 
lace-like,  milk-whitQ  flowers,  are  quite  as  fine  as  many 
foreign  plants.  Some  of  the  Dogwoods  are  worth 
a  place  in  any  garden.  Our  Thorns  are  almost  equal 
to  the  English  Hawthorn,  but  unfortunately  they  are 
not  easy  to  transplant.  The  wild  Crab  Apple  is  a 
most  lovely  shrub,  or  small  tree,  when  covered  with 
its  bright  rose  colored  flowers  of  musky  sweetness. 


FIG    71 — THE    AMERICAN    ELDER 


and  would  soon  be  extremely  popular  if  advertised  as 
having  come  from  Japan,  with  a  long  name  attached 
to  it,  and  a  good,  big  price. 

And  then,  the  wild  Roses,  what  could  be  sweeter  ? 
Sometimes  I  think  them  more  lovely,  in  many  ways, 
than  the  great  double  ones.  They  have  such  a  deli- 
cacy of  color,  such  a  delightful  fragrance,  and  grow 
jn  such  a  graceful  way,  that  they  ought  to  be  grown 
wherever  any  of  the  Rose  family  is  cultivated. 


SHRUBS,      AND      HOW      TO      PLANT      THEM        2/9 

Perhaps  a  small  tree  may  be  desired.  If  so,  select 
one  of  the  Japanese  Maples  with  finely-cut  foliage,  or 
a  cut-leaved  Birch.  Both  are  beautiful  at  all  stages 
of  growth. 

Be  sure  to  go  over  your  shrubs  each  spring,  and 
thin  them  out  well,  if  you  want  them  to  make  strong, 
vigorous  growth.  Some  shrubs,  like  the  Lilac,  form 
their  buds  the  season  previous  to  blooming.  These 
must  not  be  pruned  until  after  flowering,  for  this 
would  destroy  a  large  share  of  this  season's  crop  of 
flowers.  But  such  shrubs  as  bear  flowers  on  growth 
of  the  present  season  can  be  pruned  in  spring.  Remove 
all  dead  or  injured  branches  promptly,  and  do  not 
hesitate  to  cut  back  any  branch  when  you  see  that  it 
is  trying  to  get  the  start  of  others.  It  is  an  easy 
matter  to  make  a  shrub  assume  a  good,  symmetrical 
shape  if  proper  care  is  given  when  it  is  needed.  This 
is  when  it  is  growing.  If  neglected  then,  it  will  not 
be  so  easy  a  matter  to  bring  it  into  satisfactory  shape. 

Be  sure  to  keep  the  grass  away  from  the  roots 
of  your  shrubs  if  you  want  them  to  remain  in  vigor- 
ous, healthy  condition.  If  this  aggressive  little  plant 
is  allowed  to  have  free  range  it  will  soon  choke  out 
delicate  shrubs,  and  even  the  hardiest,  like  the  Lilac, 
will  suffer  from  its  encroachments. 


CHAPTER  L 


ROCKERIES 

When  properly  made,  on  a  lawn  or  in  a  yard  of 
considerable  size,  a  rockery  can  easily  become  a  leading 
feature  of  the  place.  It  will  attract  because  of  its 
wildness  and  contrast  with  other  portions  of  the 
grounds.  But  unless  properly  made,  there  will  be  no 
sense  of  wildness  about  it.  What  is  fondly  imagined 
by  its  constructor  to  pass  for  wildness  will  really  be 
very  tame,  and  the  whole  thing  will  most  likely  be  a 
burlesque  on  one  of  nature's  rockeries.  I  am  fre- 
quently amused  to  see  the  specimens  of  rockwork  some 
grounds  display.  They  are  not  like  anything  under  the 
sun  but — themselves  ! 

I  would  never  advise  anyone  to  attempt  a  rockery 
unless  there  are  quite  extensive  grounds  about  the 
house,  for  seclusion  seems  necessary  to  the  complete 
carrying  out  of  the  idea  which  the  term  rockery 
suggests.  It  is  a  nook  apart  from  frequented  places, 
or,  at  least,  it  should  be,  to  have  the  charm  which 
naturally  accompanies  such  bits  of  nature,  with  some- 
thing of  the  wild  freedom  of  wood  and  field  about  it. 
If  possible  there  should  be  an  old  tree  near  it ;  any  way, 
some  large  shrubs  which  have  attained  almost  the 
dignity  of  a  tree.  Without  tree  or  shrub,  don't  attempt 
having  a  rockery.  But  with  these  accessories  it  will  be 
possible  for  you  to  make  something  that  will  afford  a 
great  deal  of  pleasure,  provided,  as  I  have  said,  you 
have  room  enough  to  give  a  sense  of  seclusion  to 
the  place. 

In  constructing  a  rockery  do  not  go  to  work  with 
the  intention  of  "laying  one  up"  as  a  mason  would  a 


ROCKERIES  28l 

wall.  There  should  be  no  precise  or  systematic  arrange- 
ment. Heap  the  stones  together  as  carefully  as  possi- 
ble. The  larger  the  stones  are  the  better.  Fill  between 
them  with  earth  from  the  woods  or  the  pasture.  You 
will  find  many  kinds  of  wild  plants  springing  up  in  this 
soil,  after  a  little,  and  these  plants  are  the  very  ones 
necessary  to  give  the  place  a  natural  look.  I  have 
never  been  pleased  with  any  rockery  filled  with  any- 
thing but  wild  plants,  because  there  is  an  inconsistency 
in  the  idea  of  a  rockery  over  which  plants  from  the 
garden  and  greenhouse  grow.  The  rockery,  in  the  true 
sense  of  the  term,  suggests  perfect  freedom  from  every- 
thing conventional  and  cultivated.  Anything  not  in 
accordance  with  this  idea  will  interfere  with  the 
successful  carrying  out  of  the  plan. 

Of  course  the  idea  is  to  imitate  nature.  But  the 
truth  is,  it  is  the  hardest  thing  in  the  world  to  do  to 
imitate  nature  successfully.  She  never  has  a  plan. 
She  works  from  instinct.  Most  of  us  lack  her  instinct 
of  beauty,  and  her  ability  to  create  it  without  rules  or 
patterns,  and  what  we  do  in  imitation  of  her  is  quite 
likely  to  bear  as  little  resemblance  to  her  work  as  the 
first  drawings  of  a  child  resemble  the  work  of  a  prac- 
ticed hand.  If  it  is  necessary  for  the  picture  on  the 
slate  to  be  labeled  "This  is  a  horse,"  or  "a  cow,"  as 
the  fancy  of  the  amateur  artist  prompts,  it  would  be 
equally  necessary  in  most  instances  to  label  most 
attempts  at  rockery  building  so  that  no  mistake  need 
be  made  by  the  beholder,  for  one  is  about  as  true  to 
nature  as  the  other. 

In  attempting  to  imitate  nature  in  anything,  it  is 
necessary,  first  of  all,  if  you  would  do  good  work,  to 
take  lessons  of  her.  Do  you  want  your  rockery  to 
remind  you  of  some  wild  nook  that  you  have  seen  in 
the  woods?  Then  go  to  that  spot,  and  sit  down  and 
study  the  heap  of  rocks  and  the  plants  growing  among 


2&2  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

them  well.  Observe  how  the  rocks  are  piled  together. 
There  is  no  suggestion  of  the  stonemason.  There  is  no 
getting  at  any  precise,  formal  rule  to  follow.  All  is 
disorder,  in  one  sense  of  the  word,  and  yet  everything 
is  in  that  perfect  order  which  grows  out  of  the  eternal 
fitness  of  things.  Here  a  vine  has  taken  root,  and  its 
beauty  softens  the  rugged  outline  of  the  rocks  across 
and  over  which  it  clambers,  half  concealing  them.  A 
Fern  has  made  itself  a  home  in  a  crevice  and  flourishes 
as  you  can  never  expect  its  fellow  to  in  your  rockery. 
All  kinds  of  wild  things  creep  and  clamber  over  the 
gray  stones — grass,  weed,  moss — all  in  perfect  har- 
mony with  the  place,  and  not  one  suggesting  the 
cultivated  garden. 

The  most  pleasing  rockery  I  have  ever  seen  is  one 
that  was  not  "built"  at  all.  Still,  it  was  made,  and  yet 
it  was  an  accident.  A  man  was  hired  to  draw  some 
great  rocks  of  which  to  construct  it.  He  drew  them, 
and  unloaded  them  in  a  heap  near  the  place  where  the 
rockery  was  to  be.  When  the  owner  came  to  begin 
work,  he  was  impressed  with  the  idea  that  the  careless, 
haphazard  way  in  which  the  stones  were  piled  up  was 
vastly  more  like  nature's  way  of  doing  such  business 
than  anything  likely  to  result  from  a  more  formal 
effort,  and  he  had  the  good  sense  to  leave  the  heap 
precisely  as  it  was.  This  rockery  is  a  pleasing  one 
because  there  is  an  entire  absence  of  design  or  plan 
about  it.  If  he  had  rearranged  the  rocks  of  which  it 
is  composed  he  would  doubtless  have  spoiled  it. 

If  you  can  locate  a  rockery  where  it  will  seem  as  if 
springing  from  a  bank,  or  as  being  the  continuation  of 
one,  your  chance  of  success  with  it  will  be  much  better 
than  it  will  if  you  have  to  build  it  on  a  level  foundation. 
Rocks,  as  a  general  thing,  seem  to  have  tumbled  from 
somewhere.  They  don't  heap  themselves  together  on 
a  flat  surface.  Choose  a  place,  then,  if  possible,  where 


ROCKERIES 

there  is  a  bit  of  knoll  or  hill  to  give  some  color  of  con- 
sistency to  the  idea  that  possibly  they  might  have  fallen 
from  this  elevation,  though,  of  course,  you  will  not  be 
successful  enough  in  your  attempt  to  make  anyone 
think  for  a  moment  that  they  ever  did  so. 

Such  vines  as  the  Ampelopsis  or  Virginia  Creeper 
are  excellent  for  planting  among  rocks.  So  is  the  wild 
Grape,  or  the  Blackberry.  Let  them  run  riot.  Never 
attempt  to  train  them.  The  more  of  a  tangle  they 
make  the  more  attractive  your  rockery  will  be.  At  the 
base  of  the  rocks — which  cannot  be  too  large — plant 
Ferns  of  different  varieties.  Shrubs  from  the  woods 
can  be  planted  near.  Let  the  path  to  it  be  a  round- 
about one.  If  you  can  arrange  it  so  that  one  comes 
upon  it  suddenly,  and  not  suspecting  what  the  path  he 
is  following  leads  to,  so  much  the  better.  The  surprise 
of  finding  a  pretty  imitation  of  a  bit  of  wild  life  there 
will  add  much  to  the  pleasure  it  will  give. 


CHAPTER  LI 


AFTER    THOUGHTS 

The  Helianthus  multifloms.  This  is  a  new  plant, 
comparatively,  and  one  that  I  am  quite  delighted  with. 
It  is  a  variety  of  Sunflower,  but  a  much  finer  one  than 
anything  of  the  kind  we  have  had  heretofore.  It  sends 
up  several  stalks  from  thick,  half-tuberous  roots,  and  in 
August  and  September  these  are  well  laden  with  flowers 
of  a  very  rich  golden  yellow.  These  flowers  are  about 
as  large  over  as  the  top  of  a  teacup,  and  are  quite 
double.  They  light  up  the  garden  wonderfully,  and  on 
this  account,  more  than  that  of  their  individual  beauty, 
I  consider  them  very  useful.  There  is  no  color  so  effect- 
ive as  yellow  in  bringing  out  and  toning  up  the  beauty 
of  other  colors.  It  puts  life  into  them.  One  plant  of 
this  Helianthus  will  make  a  good  sized  garden  gay, 
which  without  it  would  seem  filled  with  a  monotony 
of  dull  colors.  It  seems  concentrated  sunshine.  It  is 
very  effective  for  the  decoration  of  rooms  in  autumn, 
especially  when  used  with  vines  of  the  Virginia  Creeper 
after  that  plant  has  begun  to  take  on  its  crimson  and 
maroon  colors.  It  appears  to  be  quite  hardy  and  to 
stand  our  winters  well  at  the  North.  However,  should 
it  in  any  locality  be  found  tender,  the  roots  can  be 
taken  up  and  stored  in  the  cellar. 


Hyacinthus  candicans  (Galtonia  candicans).  This 
plant,  popularly  known  as  Summer  Hyacinth,  is  a 
member  of  the  Lily  family.  It  blooms  in  August.  It 
grows  to  a  hight  of  three  or  four  feet,  and  bears  a 
large  number  of  beautiful,  drooping,  bell-shaped  white 
flowers.  If  several  bulbs  are  planted  in  the  center  of  a 


AFTER     THOUGHTS  285 

bed  of  Gladiolus  the  effect  is  very  fine,  as  the  Summer 
Hyacinth  throws  its  flowers  well  above  the  others.  It 
is  hardy,  and  is  an  excellent  plant  for  cemetery  use. 
In  order  to  secure  a  good  effect  several  bulbs  must  be 
planted  in  a  clump. 


I  intended  to  speak  of  the  Salvia  as  a  summer 
bloomer.  It  is  one  of  our  most  effective  bedders.  It 
can  be  made  to  do  excellent  work  as  the  center  of  a 
group.  Its  long  spikes  of  brilliant  flowers  make  a 
splendid  show  among  Cannas  and  other  plants  with 
rich  green  foliage.  When  used  with  the  Helianthus  or 
with  yellow  Hollyhocks,  or  as  a  background  for  white 
Perennial  Phlox,  it  is  very  fine.  Yellow  and  white 
brings  out  the  intense  richness  of  its  flowers  vividly. 
It  is  excellent  for  cutting.  Plant  it  near  a  clump  of 
Goldenrod  and  note  the  effect.  It  is  difficult  to  tell 
which  is  the  more  brilliant. 


And  that  reminds  me  that  I  wanted  to  speak  a 
good  word  for  this  beautiful  flower.  I  have  several 
clumps  of  it  growing  in  my  yard,  and  it  is  greatly 
admired  by  all  who  see  it.  It  is  quite  amusing  to  have 
an  old  farmer  stop  and  lean  over  the  fence  to  ask  me 
what  "that  yellow  posy  is."  As  if  he  had  not  seen  it 
growing,  all  his  lifetime,  in  the  pastures  and  fence 
corners !  But  it  is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at  that  he 
thinks  it  something  else  than  the  despised  "yellow 
weed,"  for  under  good  treatment  it  improves  wonder- 
fully. It  becomes  a  great,  round,  compact  mass  of 
flower  stalks  three  feet  high,  completely  covered  with 
golden  plumes.  It  is  well  worth  a  place  in  every 
garden.  Few  flowers  give  such  a  rich  and  solid  color 
effect  as  the  Goldenrod. 


286  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

Another  fine  native  plant  is  the  Aster  of  the  fence 
corners  and  the  pastures.  Its  delicate  color  ought  to 
make  it  popular.  Like  the  Goldenrod,  it  improves 
wonderfully  when  well  cared  for,  and  in  September  it 
will  be  covered  with  purple  and  blue  and  lavender 
flowers,  which  are  very  pleasing  in  the  garden  among 
flowers  of  brighter  color,  but  especially  so  in  vases.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  charming  plants  we  have  for  the 
decoration  of  rooms. 


We  have  few  finer  flowers  in  the  list  of  border 
plants  than  the  herbaceous  Spireas.  S.  palmata  alba 
has  flowers  of  the  purest  white,  with  very  large,  rich 
foliage.  6\  rosea  has  pink  flowers.  The  individual 
blossoms  are  small,  but  there  is  a  multitude  of  them  in 
each  cluster,  which  is  borne  on  the  top  of  a  stalk  four 
feet  high.  These  clusters  give  the  effect  of  plumes,  so 
light  and  feathery  are  they,  as  one  sees  them  nodding 
in  the  breeze.  Be  sure  to  have  both  varieties,  and  to 
plant  them  together.  One  alone  is  good,  the  two  kinds 
much  better,  one  being  the  complement  of  the  other  in 
all  ways. 

Pansies  sown  in  spring  give  good  flowers  late  in 
the  season,  but  never  very  fine  ones  before  October, 
with  me,  and  though  the  plants  seem  to  come  through 
the  winter  in  good  condition,  I  fail  to  get  many  flowers 
from  them  the  next  season.  I  am  convinced  that  the 
best  plants  are  secured  by  late  sowings.  They  ought 
not  to  bloom  at  all  the  first  season.  They  should  be 
strong,  vigorous  plants  in  the  fall,  which  have  not 
exhausted  or  weakened  themselves  by  flowering.  If 
well  protected  they  will  come  out  in  spring  in  the 
proper  condition  to  begin  flowering  early,  and  will 
produce  fine  flowers  through  the  greater  part  of  the 
season.  I  would  not  try  to  take  them  through  a  second 


AFTER    THOUGHTS  287 

winter.  You  see  that  plants  grown  from  early  sowing 
divide  their  blooming  between  the  last  of  the  present 
year  and  the  first  of  the  next  one.  I  would  aim  to 
prevent  this  by  not  sowing  seed  before  July.  It  is  very 
much  the  same  with  Hollyhocks,  and  other  plants  of 
that  class,  which  have  been  sown  early  in  the  season. 
They  don't  get  along  quite  far  enough  to  bloom  the 
first  year,  yet  they  pass  that  stage  which  ought  to  take 
them  to  the  close  of  the  first  season's  growth.  I  would 
not  advise  sowing  seed  of  any  perennials  before  July 
or  August  if  I  wanted  them  to  do  their  best  next  season. 


When  plants  are  received  from  the  florist  do  not 
remove  the  paper  or  moss  in  which  the  roots  are  packed, 
at  once,  and  leave  the  soil  exposed  until  you  get  ready 
to  pot  them,  but  sprinkle  them  thoroughly,  just  as  you 
take  them  from  the  box.  Don't  be  afraid  of  giving  too 
much  water.  Then  let  them  stand  for  an  hour  or  two. 
They  will  freshen  up  wonderfully  in  that  time,  and  the 
soil  will  not  be  likely  to  crumble  away  from  the  roots 
when  you  remove  the  wrapping. 


By  all  means  have  a  "cut-and-come-again"  corner. 
A  place  for  all  the  odds  and  ends  of  the  garden  and  the 
plants  which  overflow  the  window.  You  will  find  such 
a  place  one  of  the  most  delightful  spots  in  or  about  the 
garden.  It  will  give  you  as  much  pleasure  to  visit  it  as 
it  does  to  make  an  informal  call  on  a  friend  with  whom 
you  are  not  expected  to  stand  on  ceremony.  There 
everything  is  delightfully  free  and  easy — no  stiff,  prim 
arrangements  of  beds,  no  suggestion  of  "company 
manners,"  or  being  on  dress  parade.  When  you  want 
a  nosegay  for  your  friend,  or  some  flowers  for  the 
house,  there  is  where  you  will  go  to  look  for  them  first, 
and  there  is  where  you  will  always  be  most  likely  to 


288  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

find  them.     You  won't  be  afraid  of  spoiling  the  looks 
of  anything  by  cutting  freely  from  this  corner. 


I  am  often  written  to  by  parties  who  are  mystified 
by  their  Rose  bushes.  A  letter  before  me  says  that  the 
writer  has  a  very  thrifty  Hybrid  Perpetual.  It  bloomed 
the  first  year  it  was  planted.  The  next  spring  the  old 
top  was  dead,  but  it  sent  up  strong  shoots  from  the 
roots,  and  has  continued  to  do  so  every  year  since,  but 
not  a  blossom  has  it  given  on  these  branches.  Why  ? 
It  was  a  grafted  plant.  The  first  year  you  had  Roses 
because  the  graft  was  alive.  That  winter  the  grafted 
portion  died,  and  the  next  spring  shoots  were  sent  up 
from  the  stock  on  which  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  bud  had 
been  grafted.  This  often  happens,  and  the  owners  fail 
to  understand  why  it  is.  I  would  never  get  grafted 
Roses.  Buy  those  which  are  on  their  own  roots. 


Do  you  want  a  low  fence  that  shall  not  offend  the 
eye,  but  be  a  "thing  of  beauty"  ?  Then  get  some  wire 
netting,  with  large  meshes,  and  stretch  it  smoothly  on 
small,  neat  posts.  Then  plant  Virginia  Creeper  by  it, 
and  let  this  plant  take  entire  possession  of  it.  It  will 
be  beautiful  at  all  seasons,  and  especially  so  in  fall  when 
the  foliage  takes  on  its  rich  colors.  This  netting  makes 
an  excellent  trellis  for  training  Clematis  on.  It  is  also 
excellent  for  piazza  use,  as  it  does  not  keep  out  the 
sun  when  not  covered  by  vines,  is  not  obstructive  in 
appearance,  and  lasts  for  a  lifetime  if  taken  care  of.  Its 
meshes  afford  a  much  better  support  than  any  trellis  I 
have  ever  tried. 

Floral  awnings  can  be  made  very  easily,  and  they 
will  be  found  to  be  not  only  quite  as  effective  as  the 
striped  cloth  in  general  use,  but  vastly  more  pleasing 
to  the  eye.  "The  boys"  can  make  the  frames  for  them. 


AFTER      THOUGHTS  289 

These  should  be  of  lath,  nailed  in  squares,  with  strips 
crossing  from  corner  to  corner,  to  stiffen  them,  as  well 
as  to  form  a  support  for  the  vines  trained  over  them. 
Fasten  one  side  of  the  frame  to  the  top  of  the  door  or 
window  frame,  and  support  it  by  running  strips  from 
each  side  of  the  door  or  window  frame  to  the  front  cor- 
ners. Let  these  strips  for  supports  be  long  enough  to 
throw  the  front  of  the  framework  of  lath  out  well  from 
the  window,  but  not  long  enough  to  make  it  anywhere 
near  level  when  put  in  place.  When  covered  with  flow- 
ering vines  the  effect  will  be  very  satisfactory.  These 
homemade  awnings  can  be  used  in  combination  with 
window  boxes,  at  second  story  windows.  Care  must  be 
taken  to  give  the  framework  slant  enough  to  properly 
shade  the  window. 


I  frequently  get  complaints  from  parties  who  have 
been  victimized  by  the  "tree  peddler."  They  tell  me 
about  buying  a  Rose  which  was  to  bear  "seven  colors  on 
the  same  bush,"  or  perhaps  a  "blue  Rose,"  or  a  "Va- 
nilla Plant"  which  was  wonderfully  fragrant  when  first 
bought,  but  soon  lost  its  sweetness.  The  only  way  to 
prevent  being  imposed  on  by  these  unprincipled  persons 
is  to  refuse  to  buy  of  them.  Send  your  orders  to  some 
dealer  in  whom  you  have  confidence.  Then  you  won't 
get  cheated. 

I  have  been  asked  to  give  a  sort  of  unfailing  recipe 
for  a  "rockery."  I  can  give  one  which  will  be  satis- 
factory, always:  Don't  have  any.  The  fact  is,  we 
can't  make  rockeries  that  are  not  monstrosities.  Nature 
has  the  patent  on  them.  You  may  pile  up  a  lot  of  stone 
in  the  yard  or  on  the  lawn  and  call  it  a  rockery.  But 
that  doesn't  make  it  so  in  the  true  sense.  It  is  nothing 
more  or  less  than  a  heap  of  stones,  and  a  burlesque  on 
nature's  work.  The  only  way  in  which  you  will  ever  be 


290  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

able  to  get  any  satisfaction  out  of  it,  if  you  have  good 
taste,  is  by  covering  it  up  as  quickly  as  possible.  Even 
if  it  were  possible  for  us  to  construct  a  rockery  that 
would  imitate  nature's  work  well,  such  a  construction 
would  be  out  of  place  in  a  small  yard.  A  rockery — one 
of  nature's,  at  least — suggests  wildness  and  seclusion, 
and  you  don't  expect  to  find  these  in  a  front  yard  not 
fifty  feet  square. 


I  do  really  hope  that  no  reader  of  this  book  has 
ever  had  the  "Gipsy  Kettle"  craze.  If  he  or  she  has,  I 
trust  they  have  recovered  from  it  long  ago,  and  that  the 
kettle  has  been  consigned  to  the  oblivion  of  the  back 
yard,  where  it  always  belonged.  The  sight  of  a  dinner 
pot  painted  a  fiery  red,  and  dangling  from  three  sticks, 
with  a  poor,  down-hearted  little  plant  in  it,  has  often 
made  me  feel  like  committing  trespass.  No  one  ever 
saw  a  plant  growing  well  in  one  of  these  abominations, 
and  it  is  not  at  all  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  plant 
wanted  to  die,  and  did  die. 


Layering  as  a  method  of  propagating  some  kinds  of 
plants  which  do  not  root  readily  from  cuttings  is  to  be 
recommended.  Take  a  branch  and  bend  it  down  to  the 
ground,  giving  it  a  sharp  bend  that  will  crack  it  at  the 
place  where  it  comes  in  contact  with  the  earth,  or  take 
a  sharp  knife  and  cut  it  about  half  through  on  the 
underside  at  this  point.  Fasten  it  by  pegs,  or  crossed 
sticks,  so  that  this  cut  or  fractured  part  will  stay  where 
you  put  it,  and  cover  with  soil  to  the  depth  of  about 
two  inches.  Set  a  stick  by  it,  and  tie  the  end  of  the 
shoot  to  it,  in  an  upright  position.  You  will  under- 
stand that  the  shoot  which  you  are  attempting  to  root 
must  be  left  attached  to  the  parent  plant.  This  fur- 
nishes life  to  it  while  it  is  forming  roots  of  its  own. 
The  break,  or  cut,  partially  obstructs  the  flow  of  sap, 


AFTER      THOUGHTS  2QI 

and  a  callus  will  be  formed  at  that  portion,  and  after- 
wards roots.  Let  it  remain  connected  with  the  old 
plant  till  you  are  sure  it  has  rooted  well.  Then  cut  off 
and  transplant.  This  method  applies  to  many  of  our 
shrubs  which  do  not  sucker  freely.  It  is  especially 
valuable  in  the  propagation  of  choice  Roses. 


If  you  have  a  greenhouse  do  not  take  the  plants 
all  out  of  it  in  summer.  By  shading  the  roof  you  can 
make  them  as  comfortable  there  as  they  would  be  out- 
side, if  the  windows  and  doors  are  left  open  to  allow  a 
free  circulation  of  air.  The  roof  can  be  shaded  from 
inside  by  using  thin  cotton  cloth  which  can  be  tacked  to 
the  rafters,  or  you  can  splash  the  glass  on  the  outside 
with  whitewash.  Apply  with  a  small  combination 
pump,  or  from  a  syringe.  I  prefer  the  whitewash  to 
the  cloth  shading,  it  being  easier  to  put  on,  and  less 
expensive.  In  making  it,  simply  pour  boiling  water 
over  fresh  lime.  When  freezing  weather  comes  it  will 
be  loosened  from  the  glass  and  can  easily  be  brushed 
off.  Unless  some  kind  of  shading  is  given,  the  mid- 
summer sun  will  very  soon  scorch  your  plants. 


If  you  have  only  a  window  collection,  and  there  is 
no  veranda  or  other  shaded,  sheltered  place  in  which 
to  put  them  in  summer,  make  a  shed  for  them  by  setting 
posts  in  the  ground.  Nail  strips  from  post  to  post,  and 
then  tack  on  lath.  Let  the  lath  be  about  an  inch  apart. 
This  will  shade  your  plants  sufficiently. 


Every  place  ought  to  have  a  "summer  house"  of 
some  kind.  It  need  not  be  elaborate  or  expensive  to  be 
enjoyable.  Set  four  stout  posts  in  the  ground  twelve  or 
fourteen  feet  apart  each  way.  Let  them  be  about  eight 
feet  high  above  the  ground.  Nail  strips  from  one  to 
the  other,  at  the  top,  an4  put  other  strips  across,  lattice 


292  HOME       FLORICULTURE 

fashion.  This  will  give  you  a  good  frame.  Plant 
quick  growing  vines  by  each  post  to  run  up  to  the  roof. 
They  will  cover  it  by  the  end  of  June,  and  you  will  have 
a  pleasant  place  to  read  or  sew  in.  Have  a  hammock 
swung  there,  and  a  rocking  chair,  and  sometimes  take 
tea  or  dinner  there.  It  will  give  additional  relish  to  the 
meal  to  eat  it  "under  green  branches."  It  will  make  it 
seem  like  a  little,  extemporized  picnic  to  the  children. 
And  the  children  will  enjoy  this  rustic  structure  very 
much  as  a  "playhouse."  If  you  have  boys,  set  them  to 
work  at  building  it.  They  will  enjoy  the  work,  and  it 
will  do  them  good  to  get  used  to  handling  the  saw  and 
hammer. 


I  have  been  asked  if  the  reason  why  plants  in  iron 
vases  on  the  lawn  are  so  generally  unsatisfactory  is  be- 
cause of  the  material  of  which  the  vase  is  constructed. 
I  answer  no.  The  reason  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  is 
simply  this :  The  soil  is  dry.  The  vase  is  exposed  to 
the  wind  and  air,  consequently  evaporation  is  rapid.  The 
iron  absorbs  the  heat  of  the  sun's  rays,  and  this  helps 
to  hasten  evaporation.  If  you  will  give  it  the  attention 
it  demands — a  daily  application  of  water  in  such 
quantities  that  the  soil  is  completely  soaked  through — 
you  can  grow  plants  well  in  iron  vases.  In  a  short 
time  the  vines  used  will  cover  the  sides  of  the  vase, 
thus  shading  it,  and  checking  evaporation  somewhat. 


Do  not  try  to  have  too  many  plants  in  a  small 
window.  One  good  one — symmetrical,  and  well  de- 
veloped on  all  sides — is  much  more  satisfactory  to  the 
lover  of  fine  flowers  than  half  a  dozen  awkward 
specimens.  And  that  they  will  be  awkward  if  crowded 
is  a  foregone  conclusion. 


AFTER      THOUGHTS  293 

In  putting  out  plants  in  the  garden,  choose  a 
cloudy  day  for  it,  if  possible.  Water  well  when  you 
plant.  Shade  for  a  day  or  two,  or  till  they  begin  to 
grow. 


Pits  for  wintering  many  varieties  of  plants  at  the 
South  can  be  made  cheaply.  Dig  out  a  place  in  a  well- 
drained  location  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  feet.  Set 
up  posts  at  each  corner,  the  two  at  the  north  projecting 
about  a  foot  and  a  half  above  the  ground ;  the  two  at 
the  south  about  six  inches.  This  will  give  the  top  of 
the  pit  a  slope  toward  the  sun  of  about  the  right  angle 
for  the  glass  with  which  it  is  covered  to  get  the  full 
benefit  of  its  rays.  Cover  with  glazed  sash,  hung  on 
hinges  at  the  higher  side,  or  back.  In  mild  weather 
this  sash  should  be  lifted  to  admit  air.  Have  it  made  to 
fit  the  boarding  closely  all  around.  Bank  up  well  to 
the  top  of  the  frame.  Cover  the  glass  with  matting,  or 
something  similar,  in  cold  weather,  but  remove  as  soon 
as  the  sun  comes  out.  Plants  in  such  a  pit  will  not 
make  good  growth,  but  they  will  remain  in  good  health, 
and  be  ready  to  make  a  vigorous  growth  as  soon  as 
spring  comes.  It  is  very  important  that  the  pit  should 
be  well  drained.  If  it  is  not  the  plants  will  mildew  or 
mold,  and  you  will  be  quite  sure  to  lose  many  of  them. 
Such  a  pit  would  not  afford  sufficient  protection  at 
the  North. 

Agave  Americana  is  a  fine  plant  for  a  large  vase  to 
stand  on  the  steps  leading  to  the  house,  or  near  the 
path,  where  something  striking  and  peculiar  is  desired. 
The  variegated  varieties  are  also  attractive  for  this 
purpose.  They  stand  the  sun  well.  They  can  be 
taken  to  the  cellar  for  wintering,  if  you  have  no  green- 
house. If  you  have  a  greenhouse,  they  can  be  made 
to  do  good  work  in  helping  to  make  it  attractive  in 


294  HOME      FLORICULTURE 

winter.  The. Yucca  is  also  an  excellent  plant  for  use  in 
vases.  So  is  the  New  Zealand  Flax,  with  its  long,  sti^ 
foliage,  heavily  marked  with  yellow. 


If  we  would  have  fine  Roses,  we  must  fight 
for  them.  The  rose-chafer,  the  slug,  and  the  aphis 
will  do  their  best  to  spoil  the  crop  of  flowers,  and,  if 
let  alone,  they  will  soon  destroy  every  bud,  and  make 
the  foliage  look  as  if  a  fire  had  scorched  it.  I  make 
liberal  applications  of  the  soap  insecticide  frequently 
spoken  of  in  the  preceding  pages,  early  in  the  season — 
before  the  pests  appear,  in  fact — and  find  it  an  easy 
matter  to  prevent  them  from  getting  a  foothold  on  the 
plants.  "Prevention  is  better  than  cure."  In  applying 
it,  be  very  sure  to  have  it  reach  the  underside  of  the 
leaves.  Let  someone  hold  the  bushes  over  in  such  a 
manner  that  the  underside  of  the  foliage  will  present 
itself  favorably,  and  then  give  the  entire  plant  a  good 
drenching.  Half  of  the  battle  consists  in  getting  the 
start  of  the  insects. 


Ferns  from  pasture  land  and  wood  lot  can  be 
readily  domesticated  if  one  is  wilKng  to  go  to  a  little 
trouble  in  preparing  a  place  for  them.  Plant  them  in 
soil  brought  from  the  places  where  they  grew.  A 
wagon  load  of  it  will  be  sufficient  to  make  a  good- 
sized  bed.  In  getting  plants,  choose  the  smaller  ones, 
and  take  them  up  with  considerable  soil  adhering  to 
their  roots.  Place  them,  as  fast  as  lifted,  in  baskets 
lined  with  damp  moss,  and  be  careful  to  see  that  their 
roots  do  not  get  dry  before  they  are  planted.  When  a 
Fern  root  becomes  really  dry,  the  plant  it  is  attached 
to  is  ruined.  Ferns  are  delicate  plants,  but  they  can 
be  transplanted  successfully  if  handled  carefully.  In 
choosing  a  place  for  them  select  one  that  is  sheltered 


AFTER      THOUGHTS 


from  the  hot  sunshine.     The  north  side  of  the  house 
is  a  good  place  for  the  Fern  bed. 

One  objection  —  in  fact,  about  the  only  objection 
that  can  be  urged  —  against  the  Lilac,  is  its  tendency  to 
sucker  freely.  If  allowed  to  have  its  own  way,  each 
old  plant  soon  becomes  the  center  of  a  thicket.  This 
can  easily  be  prevented  if  one  will  apply  the  hoe  vigor^ 
ously  about  the  old  plant,  for  a  few  minutes,  once  a 
week,  during  the  season  of  growth.  Shave  off  the 
sprouts  close  to  the  ground,  and  keep  them  shaved  off, 
and  you  will  have  no  trouble  in  keeping  your  Lilacs 
under  control. 


Nearly  all  smooth-leaved  plants  are  greatly  bene- 
fited by  applications  of  water  to  their  foliage,  provided 
the  sun  is  not  allowed  to  shine  on  them  while  wet.  But 
plants  having  hairy  foliage,  like  the  Gloxinia  and  the 
Rex  Begonia,  are  almost  invariably  injured  by  the 
application  of  water  to  their  leaves.  Bear  this  in 
mind,  and  be  governed  in  showering  your  plants  by 
the  peculiarities  of  their  foliage. 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Abutilon    97,  1 1 1 

Fine  Varieties  of 98,  169 

Repotting     99 

Training    Plants    of 97 

Achania    77 

Agapanthus     59 

Agave    Americana 293 

Ageratum    61,  218 

Akebia  quinata 265 

Alders     277 

Allium  Neapolitanum    194 


PAGE 

Begonia  1 1 1 

Soil  for  in 

Treatment  of  1 1 1 

Begonias,  Best  Flowering 112 

List  of  Best  Foliage  Kinds..  167 

Rex  166 

Desirable  Kinds  of 167 

Treatment  of  166 

Tuberous  96 

Berberry,  Purple-leaved   277 

Bignonia     265 


Alyssum,    Sweet 181,  219  Bittersweet     266 

Amaryllis   89  Bleeding    Heart    250 

39 
247 
109 


Anemone    250  Brackets    for   Plants 


Annuals,  List  of  the  Best 216 


Other   Good    154,  218  Bulbs 


Anthericum    159 

Aphis,  or  Black  Louse  on  Chrys- 
anthemums       13 

Or    Plant    Louse 2 

Appliances  197 

Aquilegia      247 

Aralias    15:7 

Araucarias     155 

Ardisia      157 

Aristolochia     265 

Asparagus     159,  176 

Aspidistra    157 


^ster 


Native     286 

Astilbe    196 


Treatment  of    89  Bone    Meal 

Ammonia    39  Border    Plants 

Ampelopsis     265  Bougainyillea 

Veitchii     265  Bouvardia    . . ._. 85 

S3 


Browallia 


67 
183 


Best   for    Bedding 255 

Drainage   for  Beds  of 255 

For    "Winter    Flowering 183 

For  Winter  Flowering,  Treat- 
ment of    183 

In  Bloom,  Treatment  of 187 

Making    Beds    for 254 

Soil   for    254 

Time    for   Planting 254 

To    Cover  Beds   of 258 

When  to  Take  up 185,  258 

Caladium   esculentum    227 


217,  219  Calceolaria     102 


Calla     83 

Treatment  of    84 


Awnings,    Floral    288  Calliopsis    217 

Azalea     ii6jCamellia     120 

Manure    for    118  Campanula     247 

Pots    for    117  Candytuft     218 

Soil    for    n6Canna     218 

Watering      117  Canterbury     Bell 247 

Azaleas,   Fine  Varieties  of 119  Care    of    House    Plants    During 

Repotting     .  .'. 119          Summer   and   Fall 32 

Treatment  of  Growing  Plants  nSCare   of  Plants  in  the   Window     15 

Balsam    217  Carnation     127 


Banana    Plant    227 

Basket  Plants   178 

Best   for  General   Culture 56 

Bay  Window    51,172 


Good    Varieties    of 128 

Marguerite     222 

Soil   for   and   Treatment   of..  127 

Celastrus  scandens    266 


Bedding   Plants    224  Celosia    218 

List  of 224iCestrum      81 


298 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Chinese    Bell    Flower 97 

Primrose    63 

Sacred    Lily    106 

Chrysanthemums      132 

Aphis,    or    Black    Louse    on..  134 

Fertilizers    for    132 

Repotting     133 

Soil  for    13^ 

Training     '.  134 

Treatment   of    132 

Watering      132 

When    to    Start 137 

Cineraria      100 

From    Seed    97,  100 

Treatment    of    98,  101 

Clematis      266 

Desirable    Varieties    of 267 

Clivia    108 

Coboea    171 

Columbine     247 

Coreopsis     253 

Crocus    194 

Cutting  1' lowers  Freely 287 

Cuttings      20,  51 

To    Start    20 

To   Start  in  Water 21 


'ertilizers 
"ever  few 


Cyclamen     79 

Cypress    Vine     219 

Dahlia,    Bedding    238 

Bouquet    238 

Cactus     238 

Cause   of   Failure   of 235 

Classes  of   238 

Show     238 

Single     238 

The     235 

Dahlias,    Preparing    Soil    for...   236 

Protecting    from    Frost 235 

Supporting     236 

Treatment     of     Roots     After 

Frost     239 

Watering    1 68,  236 

When   to   Plant   Out 167,236 

When  to   Start 235 

Daphne  cneorum    276 


FAGfi 

.      38 
68 


'laming    Star    168 

'icus  elastica    162 

'lax,    New    Zealand 165 

."lower  Garden,   Soil   for 211 

When    to    Make 211 

Seeds,   When   to    Sow....  147,  212 

Stands    199 

Flowering   Almond    276 

Beans 219 

Currant     275 

Plants,    List    of 55 

Plum     275 

Sumach     277 

Vines    219 

Foliage     Plants     155 

Fountain   Pump    19 

Foxglove    248 

~~reesia    192 

Fuchsia     130 

List    of    the    Best 131 

Fumigating    22 

Garden   Making  and   Seed   Sow- 


ing 


211 


Gardenia    florida    81 

Genista    87 

Geraniums,    Bed    of 123 

Ivy  Leaf,   List  of  Best 124 

List  of  Best 122 

Soil   for    122 

Sweet-scented,   List  of  Best..    124 

Gipsy  Kettle    290 

"ladiolus 243 

Bulbs,    Increasing    245 

Bulbs,  Treatment  of 243 

Cheapness   of    ?4d 

Colors    of    244 

For    Cutting    245 

How    to    Plant 244 

Soil   for    243 

Supporting    Flower    Stalks   of  244 

When   to    Plant 243 

Gloxinia      93 

Goldenrod    285 


Odora 


Decorative   Plants    J5J 

Delphinium     218,  248 

Deutzia     277 

Dicentra     250 

Digitalis      248 


losjGourds    219 


Diseased  Plants    40 

Dracaenas    161 

Drainage  of  Plants  in  Pots 7 

Dutchman's  Pipe   265 

Elders     278  Guernsey  Lily 

Eulalia  _ 228  Halesia 

Eupatorium    62 

Euphorbia    Jacquiniflora     no 

Farf ugium      1 64 

Ferns    149 

List    of 151 


Treatment  of    150  Heliotrope 


Greenhouses,  Small   203 

Building     204 

Estimates  for    210 

How    to    Build 204 

Not  Expensive    203 


Pleasure  to   be   Derived    from  204 

To  Arrange  Interior  of 209 

Ventilating     143.  210 

Grevillea     166 

196 

277 

Heating    and    Interior    Arrange- 
ment   of    Greenhouse *o8 

Hot    Water,    for    Greenhouse.  208 

Steam,    for   Greenhouse 208 

Helianthus  multiflorus    284 


73 


INDEX 


Hibiscus 
Hollyhock 


77 
248 


Honey  Bell    67 


Honeysuckle 


266 


Best  Varieties  of 266 

Hops,  Japan  219 

Hoya  carnosa  170 

-Hyacinth  190 

Roman  190 

Hyacinthus  candicans  284 

Hydrangea  104 

Hortensis     104 


78 
i8i 

f aeony      .x-'TT*.   250 

Palms,   List  of  Best  Varieties..   143 
Treatment   of 


Paniculata   grandiflora 
Imantophyllum 


275 
1 08 

Impatiens    sultani    68 

Insects  and  How  to  Fight  Them     28 

Iris    250 

Ivy,    Coliseum    181 

•  27,    105,   173 


English 

German     175 


Kenilworth 


181 


Pandanus  /T  164 

Pansies,  Covering 286 

When  to  Sow  287 

fansy  217 

Passion  Flower  172 

Pea,  Perennial '. 250 

Pelargoniums  125 

Pentas  no 

Petunia  71,  216 

Phlox  216 

Perennial     2.1,2 


Janan   Quince    271; 


fasmine,    Cape 


81 


Jasmines     So 

Jasminum  grandiflorum    81 

Revolutum     82 

Tusticia     108 

Lachenalia      194 

Lantana     69,  182 

Larkspur,     Perennial.  .  156,   218,  248 
Layering  for   Roses  and   Carna- 
tions      290 

Luac      275 

Lilies     187 

Fine    Varieties    of 270 

Soil   for    270 

Lily,    Bermuda   or   Easter 187 

Bulbs,   How  to   Plant 269 

Bulbs,   Cover   in   the   Fall 269 

Egyptian     83 

Of   the    Valley 192 

Scarborough     91 

Lime    Water    for    Plants 41 

Linaria   cymbalaria    181 

Linum   trigynum    108 

Lobelia       178,  219 

Madeira    Vine     176 

Mahernia    6 

Manure,  Cow    3 

Liquid     38 

Maple,    Flowering    97 

Marguerites     109 

Mealy   Bug    30 

Mignonette      219 

Mimulus   moschatus    29 

Miscellaneous   Hints 
Moneywort 


MUSK    Plant    99 

Myrtle    106 

Narcissus    190,   194 

Nasturtium     217 


New  Zealand   FJax 


fragrans 


Oleander 

Olive     ............ 

Dthonna    crassifolia 
Dxalis    ............ 


PA3E 

.    16 


Phormium    165 

Pickle  Plant    178 

Pipes     for    Heating,     How    Ar- 

ran<red    209 

I'lant    Sprinklers    18 

Window,  Tasteful    26 

Plants,  Arranging   54 

Basket     178 

Basket,  Best  for  General  Cul- 
ture       56 

Bedding      224 

Beddine,     List     of 224 

Best  Adapted  to  Window  Cul- 
ture       55 

Best  for  Foliage    56 

Diseased     40 

Foliage     155 

For    Edging    218 

For    Producing    Tropical    Ef- 
fects      224 

For    Window    Box 45 

For  Window  Culture,  List  of  55 

Frozen,    How   to   Treat 46 

House,    Time   to    Put    Out   of 

Doors    32 

Must   Have   Rest 48 

Old,    Repotting    8 

Plunging    33 

Resting     48 

Showering    17 

Taking    Indoors     36 

Watering    12 

What    Is    Best    to    Do    with, 

During    Summer    32 

Plumbago     58 

Poinsettia     168 

Poppy     222 

Morning    Glory    219  Portulaca     218 

Musa   Ensete    227  Postscript  of  Odds  and   Ends..  284 


Pots,  Porous  or  Glazed 50 

Size  of   10 

Potting      7 

Primrose,    Chinese    63 


300 


INDEX 


Primrose,    Baby    66  Shrubs,  Where  to   Plant 274 


Primula  pbconica   63 

Propagation  of  Plants    20 

Pyrethrum     68 


Pyrus   Japonica    275  Smilax 

Red    Spider     29 

Antidote  for    30 

Repotting  Old  Plants 8 

Ricinus       227 

Rockeries    280,  289 

Rose    127 

Pruning  the    114 


Silk   Oak    166 

Silver    Bell    277 

Soap    Insecticide    29 


To    Kill    Insects   on   the..  114,  129 
Why     So     Difficult     to     Grow 

Well    114 

Roses,    Climbing,    List    of 262 

Climbing,    Treatment    of 263 

For  House  Culture 115 


1 68 

Soil,    Best    i 

Solanum    jasminoides     173 

Spiraea     286 

Palmata      286 

Spiraeas      276 

Sprinklers,    Plant    18 

Stevia     62 


Stock 


Hardy     259  Sweet    Aiyssum 


Storm    Window    44 

Striped    iviaize    227 

Summer    House    291 

Vines    for    292 

Swainsonia       108 


Hardy.  Best  Old  Varieties  of  260 
Hardy,    Soil    for    259 


Hybrid,    Perpetual 


261 


Hybrid,    Perpetual,    Desirable 
Kinds  of    261 


Peas     216,  221 

Syringa     277 

Syringes,   Brass    18 

Tea      and      Coffee      Dregs      for 

Plants     51 


Hybrid,     Treatment     of .  .261,  262  Thorns     278 


Moss,     List     of 262 


Tea,    for    Beds 230  Tobacco,    Fumigate   with 


Tea,   for   Buttonhole   Bouquet  230 
Tea,     List     of     Most     Desir- 
able   Varieties     232 

Tea,   Soil  for  Bed  of 234 

Tea,    Treatment   of 232 

Rhynchospermum     73 

Rubber  Plant    162 

Rudbeckia      250 


Sab 


o   Palm 


161 
Salvia    85,  285 


Screw    Pine    164 


Seeds,   How  to   Sow 112  Wax   Plant 


Sowing   in   the   House 214 

Selecting   Greenhouse    Plants.  . .  55 

Senecio     175 

Showering  Plants 


218 


181,  219 


Thunbergia 176 


28 


Tradescantia    179 

Training    Plants     24 

Tree    Peddler    289 

Tropaeolum      no 

Tuberose    241 

Tulips     190 

Umbrella   Plant    161 

Vallota    purpurea     91 

Vinca    181 


Vines 


170,  219 


Sand,   Benefits   of 4 

Saxifrage     179 

Scale     30  Virgin's    Bower    267 

Scilla     256  Vriesia    165 


Best  for  Window  Use 56 

List  of  Hardy 265 


Watering    Plants     12 


170 

Weigelia     275 

Windows,    Best,    for   Plants 15 

Winter     Precautions     44 


17  Wistaria 267 

Shrubs    273  Worms    in    the    Soil 42 

Best    Varieties    of 192,  2751  Yucca   229 

Care    of    273,  279|Zinnia     218 


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First  Principles  of  Soil  Fertility 

By  ALFRED  VIVIAN.  There  is  no  subject  of  more  vital 
importance  to  the  farmer  than  that  of  the  best  method 
of  maintaining  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  The  very  evident 
decrease  in  the  fertility  of  those  soils  which  have  been 
under  cultivation  for  a  number  of  years,  combined  with 
the  increased  competition  and  the  advanced  price  of  labor, 
have  convinced  the  intelligent  farmer  that  the  agriculture 
of  the  future  must  be  based  upon  more  rational  practices 
than  those  which  have  been  followed  in  the  past.  We 
have  felt  for  some  time  that  there  was  a  place  for  a 
brief,  and  at  the  same  time  comprehensive,  treatise  on 
this  important  subject  of  Soil  Fertility.  Professor  Vivian's 
experience  as  a  teacher  in  the  short  winter  courses  has 
admirably  fitted  him  to  present  this  matter  in  a  popular 
style.  In  this  little  book  he  has  given  the  gist  of  the 
subject  in  plain  language,  practically  devoid  of  technical 
and  scientific  terms.  It  is  pre-eminently  a  "First  Book," 
and  will  be  found  especially  valuable  to  those  who  desire 
an  introduction  to  the  subject,  and  who  intend  to  do  subse- 
quent reading.  Illustrated.  5x7  inches.  265  pages.  Cloth. 

Net,  $1.00 

The  Study  of  Corn 

By  PROF.  V.  M.  SHOESMITH.  A  most  helpful  book  to  all 
farmers  and  students  interested  in  the  selection  and  im- 
provement of  corn.  It  is  profusely  illustrated  from  photo- 
graphs, all  of  which  carry  their  own  story  am1  contribute 
their  part  in  making  pictures  and  text  mattei  a  clear,  con- 
cise and  interesting  study  of  corn.  Illustrated.  5x7  inches. 
100  pages.  Cloth Net,  $0.50 

ft) 


The  Cereals  in  America 

By  THOMAS  F.  HUNT,  M.S.,  D.Agri.  .f rotessor  of  Agron- 
omy, Cornell  University.  If  you  raise  live  acres  of  any  kind 
of  grain  you  cannot  afford  to  be  without  this  book.  It  is  in 
every  way  the  best  book  on  the  subject  that  has  ever  been 
written.  It  treats  of  the  cultivation  and  improvement  of  every 
grain  crop  raised  in  America  in  a  thoroughly  practical  aim 
accurate  manner.  The  subject-matter  includes  a  comprehen- 
sive and  succinct  treatise  of  wheat,  maize,  oats,  barley,  rye,, 
rice,  sorghum  (kafir  corn)  and  buckwheat,  as  related  particu- 
larly to  American  conditions.  First-hand  knowledge  has  been 
the  policy  of  the  author  in  his  work,  and  every  crop  treated  is 
presented  in  the  light  of  individual  study  of  the  plant.  If  you 
have  this  book  you  have  the  latest  and  best  that  has  been 
written  upon  the  subject.  Illustrated.  450  pages.  5^x8 
inches.  Cloth $1.75 

The  Forage  and  Fiber  Crops  in  America 

By  THOMAS  F.  HUNT.  This  book  is  exactly  what  its  title 
indicates.  It  is  indispensable  to  the  farmer,  student  and 
teacher  who  wishes  all  the  latest  and  most  important  informa- 
tion on  the  subject  of  forage  and  fiber  crops.  Like  its  famous 
companion,  "The  Cereals  in  America,"  by  the  same  author,  it 
treats  of  the  cultivation  and  improvement  of  every  one  of  the 
forage  and  fiber  crops.  With  this  book  in  hand,  you  have 
the  latest  and  most  up-to-date  information  available.  Illus- 
trated. 428  pages.  5^x8  inches.  Cloth $175 

The  Book  of  Alfalfa 

History,  Cultivation  and  Merits.  Its  Uses  as  a  Forage 
and  Fertilizer.  The  appearance  of  the  Hon.  F.  D.  COBURN'S 
little  book  on  Alfalfa  a  few  years  ago  has  been  a  profit  revela- 
tion to  thousands  of  farmers  throughout  the  country,  and  the 
increasing  demand  for  still  more  information  on  the  subject 
has  induced  the  author  to  prepare  the  present  volume,  which 
is  by  far  the  most  authoritative,  complete  and  valuable  work 
on  this  forage  crop  published  anywhere.  It  is  printed  on  fine 
paper  and  illustrated  with  many  full-page  photographs  that 
were  taken  with  the  especial  view  of  their  relation  to  the  text. 
336  pages.  61/2  x  9  inches.  Bound  in  cloth,  with  gold  stamp- 
ing. It  is  unquestionably  the  handsomest  agricultural  refer- 
ence book  that  has  ever  been  issued.  Price,  postpaid,  .  $2.00 

Clean  Milk 

By  S.  D.  BELCHER,  M.D.  In  this  book  the  author  sets  forth 
practical  methods  for  the  exclusion  of  bacteria  from  milk, 
and  how  to  prevent  contamination  of  milk  from  the  stable 
to  the  consumer.  Illustrated.  5x7  inches.  146  pages. 

Cloth $i  oo 

(5) 


Bean  Culture 

By  GLENN  C.  SEVEY,  r».S.  A  practical  treatise  on  the  pro- 
duction and  marketing  of  beans.  It  includes  the  manner  of 
growth,  soils  and  fertilizers  adapted,  best  varieties,  seed  selec- 
tion and  breeding,  planting,  harvesting,  insects  and  fungous 
pests,  composition  and  feeding  value ;  with  a  special  chapter 
on  markets  by  Albert  W.  Fulton.  A  practical  book  for  the 
grower  and  student  alike.  Illustrated.  144  pages.  5x7 
inches.  Cloth $0.50 

Celery  Culture 

By  W.  R.  BEATTIE.  A  practical  guide  for  beginners  and  a 
standard  reference  of  great  interest  to  persons  already  en- 
gaged in  celery  growing.  It  contains  many  illustrations  giving 
a  clear  conception  of  the  practical  side  of  celery  culture.  The 
work  is  complete  in  every  detail,  from  sowing  a  few  seeds  in 
a  window-box  in  the  house  for  early  plants,  to  the  handling 
and  marketing  of  celery  in  carload  lots.  Fully  illustrated. 
150  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $0.50 

Tomato  Culture 

By  WILL  W.  TRACY.  The  author  has  rounded  up  in  this 
book  the  most  complete  account  of  tomato  culture  in  all  its 
phases  that  has  ever  been  gotten  together.  It  is  no  second- 
hand work  of  reference,  but  a  complete  story  of  the  practical 
experiences  of  the  best-posted  expert  on  tomatoes  in  the 
world.  No  gardener  or  farmer  can  afford  to  be  without  the 
book.  Whether  grown  for  home  use  or  commercial  purposes, 
the  reader  has  here  suggestions  and  information  nowhere  else 
available.  Illustrated.  150  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth.  $0.50 

The  Potato 

By  SAMUEL  FRASER.  This  book  is  destined  to  rank  as  a 
standard  work  upon  Potato  Culture.  While  the  practical  side 
has  been  emphasized,  the  scientific  part  has  not  been  neglected, 
and  the  information  given  is  of  value,  both  to  the  grower  and 
to  the  student.  Taken  all  in  all,  it  is  the  most  complete,  reliable 
and  authoritative  book  on  the  potato  ever  published  in  Amer- 
ica. Illustrated.  200  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth.  .  .  $0.75 

Dwarf  Fruit  Trees 

By  F.  A.  WAUGH.  This  interesting  book  describes  in  detail 
the  several  varieties  of  dwarf  fruit  trees,  their  propagation, 
planting,  pruning,  care  and  general  management.  Where 
there  is  a  limited  amount  of  ground  to  be  devoted  to  orchard 
purposes,  and  where  quick  results  are  desired,  this  book  will 
meet  with  a  warm  welcome.  Illustrated.  112  pages.  5x7 
inches.  Cloth ...  $0.50 

(6) 


Cabbage,  Cauliflower  and  Allied  Vegetables 

By  C.  L.  ALLEN.  A  practical  treatise  on  the  various 
types  and  varieties  of  cabbage,  cauliflower,  broccoli,  Brussels 
sprouts,  kale,  collards  and  kohl-rabi.  An  explanation  is  given 
of  the  requirements,  conditions,  cultivation  arid  general  man- 
agement pertaining  to  the  entire  cabbage  group.  After  this 
each  class  is  treated  separately  and  in  detail.  The  chapter 
on  seed  raising  is  probably  the  most  authoritative  treatise  on 
this  subject  ever  published.  Insects  and  fungi  attacking  this 
class  of  vegetables  are  given  due  attention.  Illustrated.  126 
pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $0.50 

Asparagus 

By  F.  M.  HEXAMER.  This  is  the  first  book  published  in 
America  which  is  exclusively  devoted  to  the  raising  of  aspara- 
gus for  home  use  as  well  as  for  market.  It  is  a  practical 
and  reliable  treatise  on  the  saving  of  the  seed,  raising  of  the 
plants,  selection  and  preparation  of  the  soil,  planting,  cultiva- 
tion, manuring,  cutting,  bunching,  packing,  marketing,  canning 
and  drying,  insect  enemies,  fungous  diseases  and  every  re- 
quirement to  successful  asparagus  culture,  special  emphasis  be- 
ing given  to  the  importance  of  asparagus  as  a  farm  and  money 
crop.  Illustrated.  174  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth.  .  $0.50 


The  New  Onion  Culture 

By  T.  GREINER.  Rewritten,  greatly  enlarged  and  brought 
up  to  date.  A  new  method  of  growing  onions  of  largest  size 
and  yield,  on  less  land,  than  can  be  raised  fty  the  old  plan. 
Thousands  of  farmers  and  gardeners  and  many  experiment 
stations  have  given  it  practical  trials  which  have  proved  a 
success.  A  complete  guide  in  growing  onions  with  the  great- 
est profit,  explaining  the  whys  and  wherefores.  Illustrated. 
5x7  inches.  140  pages.  Cloth $0.50 


The  New  Rhubarb  Culture 

A  complete  guide  to  dark  forcing  and  field  culture.  Part 
I — By  J.  E.  MORSE,  the  well-known  Michigan  trucker  and 
originator  of  the  now  famous  and  extremely  profitable  new 
methods  of  dark  forcing  and  field  culture.  Part  II — Com- 
piled by  G.  B.  FISKE.  Other  methods  practiced  by  the  most 
experienced  market  gardeners,  greenhouse  men  and  experi- 
menters in  all  parts  of  America.  Illustratea.  130  pages. 
5x7  inches.  Cloth $0.50 

(7) 


Alfalfa 

By  F.  D.  COBURN.  Its  growth,  uses,  and  feeding  value. 
The  fact  that  alfalfa  thrives  in  almost  any  soil;  that  without 
reseeding,  it  goes  on  yielding  two,  three,  four,  and  sometimes 
five  cuttings  annually  for  five,  ten,  or  perhaps  100  years;  and 
that  "either  green  or  cured  it  is  one  of  the  most  nutritious 
Borage  plants  known,  makes  reliable  information  upon  its  pro- 
duction and  uses  of  unusual  interest.  Such  information  is 
given  in  this  volume  for  every  part  of  America,  by  the  highest 
authority.  Illustrated.  164  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth.  $0.50 

Ginseng,    Its    Cultivation,    Harvesting,    Marketing 
and  Market  Value 

By  MAURICE  G.  KAINS,  with  a  short  account  of  its  history 
and  botany.  It  discusses  in  a  practical  way  how  to  begin  with 
either  seeds  or  roots,  soil,  climate  and  location,  preparation 
planting  and  maintenance  of  the  beds,  artificial  propagation, 
manures,  enemies,  selection  for  market  and  for  improvement, 
preparation  for  sale,  and  the  profits  that  may  be  expected. 
This  booklet  is  concisely  written,  well  and  profusely  illus- 
trated, and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  all  who  expect  to  grow 
this  drug  to  supply  the  export  trade,  and  to  add  a  new  and 
profitable  industry  to  their  farms  and  gardens,  without  inter- 
fering with  the  regular  work.  New  edition.  Revised  and  en- 
larged. Illustrated.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $0.50 

Landscape  Gardening 

By  F.  A.  WAUGH,  professor  of  horticulture,  university  of 
Vermont.  A  treatise  on  the  general  principles  governing 
outdoor  art;  with  sundry  suggestions  for  their  application 
in  the  commoner  problems  of  gardening.  Every  paragraph  is 
short,  terse  and  to  the  point,  giving  perfect  clearness  to  the 
discussions  at  all  points.  In  spite  of  the  natural  difficulty 
of  presenting  abstract  principles  the  whole  matter  is  made 
entirely  plain  even  to  the  inexperienced  reader.  Illustrated. 
152  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth Net,  $0.75  , 

Hedges,  Windbreaks,  Shelters  and  Live  Fences 

By  E.  P.  POWELL.  A  treatise  on  the  planting,  growth 
and  management  of  hedge  plants  for  country  and  suburban 
homes.  It  gives  accurate  directions  concerning  hedges;  how 
to  plant  and  how  to  treat  them;  and  especially  concerning 
windbreaks  and  shelters.  It  includes  the  whole  art  of  making 
a  delightful  home,  giving  directions  for  nooks  and  balconies, 
for  bird  culture  and  for  human  comfort.  Illustrated.  140 

pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth $0.50 

(8) 


Bulbs  and  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants 

By  C.  L.  ALLEN.  A  complete  treatise  on  trie  history, 
description,  methods  of  propagation  and  full  directions  for 
the  successful  culture  of  bulbs  in  the  garden,  dwelling  and 
greenhouse.  The  author  of  this  book  has  for  many  years 
made  bulb  growing  a  specialty,  and  is  a  recognized  authority 
on  their  cultivation  and  management.  The  cultural  direc- 
tions are  plainly  stated,  practical  and  to  the  point.  The 
illustrations  which  embellish  this  work  have  been  drawn 
from  nature  and  have  been  engraved  especially  for  this 
book.  312  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $1.50 

Fumigation  Methods 

By  WILLIS  G.  JOHNSON.  A  timely  up-to-date  book  on 
the  practical  application  of  the  new  methods  for  destroying 
insects  with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas  and  carbon  bisulphid,  the 
most  powerful  insecticides  ever  discovered.  It  is  an  indis- 
pensable book  for  farmers,  fruit  growers,  nurserymen, 
gardeners,  florists,  millers,  grain  dealers,  transportation  com- 
panies, college  and  experiment  station  workers,  etc.  Illus- 
trated. 313  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $1.00 

Diseases  of  Swine 

By  Dr.  R.  A.  CRAIG,  Professor  of  Veterinary  Medicine  at 
the  Purdue  University.  A  concise,  practical  and  popular  guide 
to  the  prevention  and  treatment  of  the  diseases  of  swine.  With 
the  discussions  on  each  disease  are  given  its  causes,  symptoms, 
treatment  and  means  of  prevention.  Every  part  of  the  book 
impresses  the  reader  with  the  fact  that  its  writer  is  thor- 
oughly and  practically  familiar  with  all  the  details  upon  which 
he  treats.  All  technical  and  strictly  scientific  terms  are 
avoided,  so  far  as  feasible,  thus  making  the  work  at  once 
available  to  the  practical  stock  raiser  as  well  as  to  the  teacher 
and  student.  Illustrated.  5x7  inches.  190  pages.  Cloth.  $0.75 

Spraying  Crops — Why,  When  and  How 

By  CLARENCE  M.  WEED,  D.Sc.  The  present  fourth  edition 
has  been  rewritten  and  set  throughout  to  bring  it  thoroughly 
up  to  date,  so  that  it  embodies  the  latest  practical  information 
gleaned  by  fruit  growers  and  experiment  station  workers.  So 
much  new  information  has  come  to  light  since  the  third  edi- 
tion was  published  that  this  is  practically  a  new  book,  needed 
by  those  who  have  utilized  the  earlier  editions,  as  well  as  by 
fruit  growers  and  farmers  generally.  Illustrated.  136  pages. 
5x7  inches.  Cloth.  ,,.,,,,,,,,  $0.50 


Successful  Fruit  Culture 

By  SAMUEL  T.  MAYNARD.  A  pi,?.ctical  guide  to  the  cultij 
vation  and  propagation  of  Fruits,  written  from  the  standpoint 
of  the  practical  fruit  grower  who  is  striving  to  make  his 
business  profitable  by  growing  the  best  fruit  possible  and  at 
the  least  cost.  It  is  up-to-date  in  every  particular,  and  covers 
the  entire  practice  of  fruit  culture,  harvesting,  storing,  mar- 
keting, forcing,  best  varieties,  etc.,  etc.  It  deals  with  principles 
first  and  with  the  practice  afterwards,  as  the  foundation,  prin- 
ciples of  plant  growth  and  nourishment  must  always  remain 
the  same,  while  practice  will  vary  according  to  the  fruit 
grower's  immediate  conditions  and  environments.  Illustrated. 
265  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $1.00 

Plums  and  Plum  Culture 

By  F.  A.  WAUGH.  A  complete  manual  for  fruit  growers, 
nurserymen,  farmers  and  gardeners,  on  all  known  varieties 
of  plums  and  their  successful  management.  This  book  marks 
an  epoch  in  the  horticultural  literature  of  America.  It  is  a 
complete  monograph  of  the  plums  cultivated  in  and  indigenous 
to  North  America.  It  will  be  found  indispensable  to  the 
scientist  seeking  the  most  recent  and  authoritative  informa- 
tion concerning  this  group,  to  the  nurseryman  who  wishes  to 
handle  his  varieties  accurately  and  intelligently,  and  to  the 
cultivator  who  would  like  to  grow  plums  successfully.  Illus- 
trated. 391  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $1.50 

Fruit  Harvesting,  Storing,  Marketing 

By  F.  A.  WAUGH.  A  practical  guide  to  the  picking,  stor- 
ing, shipping  and  marketing  of  fruit.  The  principal  subjects 
covered  are  the  fruit  market,  fruit  picking,  sorting  and  pack- 
ing, the  fruit  storage,  evaporation,  canning,  statistics  of  the 
fruit  trade,  fruit  package  laws,  commission  dealers  and  deal- 
ing, cold  storage,  etc.,  etc.  No  progressive  fruit  grower  can 
afford  to  be  without  this  most  valuable  book.  Illustrated. 
232  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $1.00 

Systematic  Pomology 

By  F.  A.  WAUGH,  professor  of  horticulture  and  landscape 
gardening  in  the  Massachusetts  agricultural  college,  formerly 
of  the  university  of  Vermont.  This  is  the  first  book  in  the 
English  language  which  has  ever  made  the  attempt  at  a  com- 
plete and  comprehensive  treatment  of  systematic  pomology. 
It  presents  clearly  and  in  detail  the  whole  metho'd  by  which 
fruits  are  studied.  The  book  is  suitably  illustrated.  288 
pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $1.00 


The  New  Egg  Farm 

By "  H.  H.  STODDARD.  A  practical,  reliable  manual  on 
producing  eggs  and  poultry  for  market  as  a  profitable  business 
enterprise,  either  by  itself  or  connected  with  other  branches 
of  agriculture.  It  tells  all  about  how  to  feed  and  manage, 
how  to  breed  and  select,  incubators  and  brooders,  its  labor- 
saving  devices,  etc.,  etc.  Illustrated.  331  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth $1.00 

Poultry  Feeding  and  Fattening 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  FISKE.  A  handbook  for  poultry  keep- 
ers on  the  standard  and  improved  methods  of  feeding  and 
marketing  all  kinds  of  poultry.  The  subject  of  feeding  and 
fattening  poultry  is  prepared  largely  from  the  side  of  the 
best  practice  and  experience  here  and  abroad,  although  the 
underlying  science  of  feeding  is  explained  as  fully  as  needful. 
The  subject  covers  all  branches,  including  chickens,  broilers, 
capons,  turkeys  and  waterfowl;  how  to  feed  under  various 
conditions  and  for  different  purposes.  The  whole  subject  of 
capons  and  caponizing  is  treated  in  detail.  A  great  mass  of 
practical  information  and  experience  not  readily  obtainable 
elsewhere  is  given  with  full  and  explicit  directions  for  fatten- 
ing and  preparing  for  market.  This  book  will  meet  the  needs 
of  amateurs  as  well  as  commercial  poultry  raisers.  Profusely 
illustrated.  160  pages.  5  x  7^/2  inches.  Cloth.  .  .  .  $0.50 

Poultry  Architecture 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  FISKE.  A  treatise  on  poultry  buildings 
of  all  grades,  styles  and  classes,  and  their  proper  location, 
coops,  additions  and  special  construction;  all  practical  in  de- 
sign, and  reasonable  in  cost.  Over  100  illustrations.  125  pages. 
5x7  inches.  Cloth $0.50 

Poultry  Appliances  and  Handicraft 

Compiled  by  G.  B.  FISKE.  Illustrated  description  of  a 
great  variety  and  styles  of  the  best  homemade  nests,  roosts, 
windows,  ventilators,  incubators  and  bro9ders,  feeding  and 
watering  appliances,  etc.,  etc.  Over  100  illustrations.  Over 
125  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth $0.50 

Turkeys  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

Edited  by  HERBERT  MYRICK.  A  treatise  on  the  natural 
history  and  origin  of  the  name  of  turkeys ;  the  various  breeds, 
the  best  methods  to  insure  success  in  the  business  of  turkey 
growing.  With  essays  from  practical  turkey  growers  in 
different  parts  of  the  United  States  and  Canada  Copiously 

illustrated.    154  pages.    5  x  7  inches.    Cloth $1.00 

(18) 


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